남성 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 모자 스타일 특성 분석

서동애 ( Dong Ae Suh ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.6

Recently, hats have been used more frequently as an accessory, contributing to the general image of clothes in men`s collections. This study compared and analyzed the frequency and styles of hat usage in men`s brand collections according to the collections` images. Types of hats and their frequency of usage in men`s clothes were analyzed among 857 collections from 74 brands between S/S 2006 and F/W 2012. This study also examined the relationship between clothes image and type of hats used. Hats were used in 622 out of 857 collections, and 24 different types of hats were used. In 67 collections, hats were used in at least 71% of clothes. The most frequently used hat was the fedora, followed in frequency by the beanie, cap, bowler, and high hat. The styles of hats in collections varied depending on seasons. In S/S season collections, fedoras were often used, while beanies were more common during the F/W season. This study analyzed styles of hats used in formal, casual, uniformed, and deformed images. Beanies and fedoras were frequently used for the formal image; fedoras, beanies, and plat caps were often used for the casual image; more than 3 types of hats were used together for the uniformed image; and design hats and hats in various styles were used for the deformed image. The results show that hats of various styles were used in collections to express the image of clothes.

3T3-L1 지방세포에서 DHA와 EPA의 지질축적 억제 효능 및 히스톤아세틸전달효소 활성 저해

정상원(Sangwon Chung),한정수(Jung Su Han),정민유(Min-Yu Chung) 한국식품영양과학회 2020 한국식품영양과학회지 Vol.49 No.12

본 연구에서는 오메가-3 지방산인 DHA와 EPA의 3T3-L1 지방세포 분화 과정 중 지방축적 및 HAT 활성 억제능을 관찰하였으며, DHA는 AGPAT2, EPA는 SREBP1α, LXR, AGPAT2 및 GPAT4의 유전자 발현 조절을 통하여 지질축적을 억제함을 밝혔다. HeLa 세포의 NE를 HAT의 source로 하여 in vitro에서 HAT 활성 억제능을 평가한 결과 DHA와 EPA 모두 유의적으로 HAT 활성을 억제하였다. DHA는 농도 의존적으로 HAT 활성을 억제한 반면, EPA는 저농도 처리군에서부터 유의적으로 HAT 활성을 억제하였다. DHA와 EPA 저농도 처리군만 비교했을 때 EPA의 HAT 억제제로서의 활성이 좀 더 큼을 알 수 있었다. 지방전구세포인 3T3-L1 세포에 MDI와 인슐린을 처리하여 지방분화를 유도하였고, 동시에 DHA와 EPA를 처리한 결과 200 μM 농도까지 세포 생존률을 억제시키지 않고 오히려 증가시켰다. Oil Red O 염색을 통해 지방구를 염색하고 정량한 결과, DHA와 EPA 모두 3T3-L1 지방세포에서 지질축적을 유의적으로 억제하였다. DHA와 EPA에 의한 지질축적 억제는 세포 활성 억제에 의한 것이 아님을 알 수 있었다. HAT는 lipogenic 유전자의 전사인자 발현에 관여하므로, HAT 억제제는 비만 혹은 지방간의 촉진을 막을 수 있다. 이는 여러식품소재 혹은 다양한 페놀계 화합물을 활용한 실험에서 입증된 바 있다. DHA 및 EPA는 PPARα와 PPARγ 유전자 발현을 유의적으로 증가시킨 반면, SREBP1α와 LXR은 DHA에 의해 증가하였고 EPA에 의해서는 유의적으로 감소하였다. 또한, AGAPT2의 유전자 발현은 EPA에 의해서만 유의적으로 증가하였고 DHA에 의한 변화는 관찰되지 않았다. 중성지방 합성에 관여하는 GPAT4 또한 DHA나 EPA에 의한 유의적 변화는 관찰되지 않았다. EPA에 의한 지방분화억제는 SREBP1α, LXR 유전자 발현의 감소, AGPAT2 증가 및 GPAT4의 유의적이지는 않지만 대조군과 유사한 수준으로의 감소 등을 통해 일어났다고 사료된다. DHA의 AGPAT2 증진 효능 등이 지방억제에 관여하였을 가능성이 있다. 이러한 유전자 발현의 조절은 앞서 관찰된 DHA 및 EPA의 HAT활성 억제와 관련이 있을 수 있다. 염색질 면역침전법 등을 활용한 입증 연구 및 동물 모델을 활용한 입증이 추후 필요할 것이다. 식품소재 혹은 지표 성분들의 후성유전적 조절을 통한 질병예방에 관한 연구는 최근 활발하게 이루어지고 있다. 비만 모델에서 오메가-3 지방산을 이용한 후성유전적 조절, 특히 히스톤아세틸전달효소의 활성 억제를 통한 유전자 발현 조절을 밝힌 연구는 본 연구논문이 최초이다. 오메가-3는 풍부한 식사 혹은 식이보충제로 많이 이용되는 피쉬오일 등의 복용으로 HAT 활성을 억제시키고, 이를 통해 비만 및 관련 질환의 예방에 도움이 될 수 있다는 가능성을 제시하고 있다. Obesity causes several metabolic and chronic diseases, including type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular diseases. Among the omega-3 fatty acids, various health benefits of docosahexaenoic acid (DHA; C22:6n-3) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA; C20:5n-3) have been elucidated. This study examined the hypolipidemic effect of DHA and EPA and the epigenetic regulation of DHA and EPA through histone acetyltransferases (HAT) activity. DHA and EPA inhibited the in vitro HAT activity, and non-toxic levels of DHA and EPA significantly attenuated lipid accumulation in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes treated with MDI (IBMX+dexamethasone+insulin) and insulin. DHA and EPA regulated the expression of lipogenic, cholesterol-related, or triacylglycerol synthesis-related genes. Indeed, DHA and EPA significantly enhanced PPARα and PPARγ2 in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes treated with MDI and insulin. Although DHA also increased SREBP1α and LXR significantly, EPA significantly attenuated the expression of the SREBP1α and LXR genes. In addition, a lower level of DHA increased AGPAT2 gene expression significantly, which was reduced significantly by the EPA treatment in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes treated with MDI and insulin. These results suggest that the hypolipidemic activity of EPA and DHA is exerted via different gene expression regulation, which is likely to be associated with HAT activity inhibition.

서열 환경에서 농작업 모자 착용에 따른 체온 조절 및 주관적 반응

김명주,최정화 한국의류학회 2004 한국의류학회지 Vol.28 No.5

This study examined the effects of two kinds of functional sun hats through a head-manikin test a climatic chamber trial for farm workers in summer. Experiment was composed of four conditions. The first condition without any hat(Control). The second was the condition with a sun hat on the market (Hat A). The third was the condition with a functional sun hat made of reflective fabric (Hat B). The last was the condition with a functional sun hat having a ventilating structure as well as reflective fabric (Hat C). For the subjects in the climatic chamber trials, 12 healthy males volunteered. Air temperature, relative humidity and globe temperature in the chamber was maintained at 33±0.5℃, 65±5%RH and 39±1℃ (WBGT 33℃). Subjects did a simulated red pepper-work (50-min work and 10-min rest, twice repetition) for 120 min. As the result of head-manikin test, the surface temperature on middle of back-neck was the lowest in Hat B of four conditions and the surface temperature on top of head was the lowest in Hat C. As the result of climatic chamber trials, there were apparent differences between with (Hat A, Hat B, Hat C) and without a sun hat (Control). In rectal temperature (T_(re)), mean skin temperature (T_(sk)), heart rate (HR), total sweat rate (TSR), The physiological heat strain was less in the condition with hats than is the condition without a sun hat. As the increasing rate in Tre, Hat B is the most effective hat for alleviation heat strain. As the subjective responses, Hat B was the most effective hat for thermal comfort even though the difference was not significant. Hat C was less effective than Hat B and the reason might be the increase of weight due to inserting the ventilating structure.

백제 금관의 유형 추론과 관모장식

박선희(Park Sun-Hee) 비교민속학회 2008 비교민속학 Vol.0 No.35

The results of inference of styles from Baekjae’s official hat made of silk and gilt bronze and uniqueness of decoration of the official hats are summarized as follows. Baekjae’s crowns were made of black silk and had decorative structure and style with golden flowers on them. For example, golden flowers were decorated on a pair of golden crowns excavated from the graves King and Queen Muryeong. At the time of the excavation, decorations of the official hats were almost piled up around the position of head. From the fact that two decorations which were stuck on a hat, they have different height and width and the parts of lean-to decoration were piled up in the opposite direction. Through these facts, we are able to notice that decorations of the official hats were stuck on the front and the back of the hats. It is assumed that the King of Baekjae wore official hats whose black crowns was surrounded with gold rim embroidered with glass jade, big size of golden decoration were located on the back and smaller sizes for golden decorations were located on the front. The example of Baekjae’s gilt bronze official hats is an unearthed article from the ninth grave in Sinchon-li, Bannam-myeon, Naju-gun, Jeonlanam-do. This one is composed of gilt bronze Jeolpung and three standing decorationswith lean-to decoration on circumference of rim on the exterior parts of the hats. Circumferences of rim and gilt bronze official hats with standing decorations were excavated from Ibjum-li, Iksan-gun, and they were based on different styles of Jeolpung. Looking into the unearthed articles, golden crowns made of gold appeared in the period of the King Sosulim ?around at the end of the fourth century- in Goguryeo. Moreover, it seems that gilt bronze crown whose whole hat was made of gilt bronze appeared at the same time. From the period of King Genchogo, Baekjae defeated Goguryeo, commanded the southern coast conquering Gaya which was located on southern parts and exercised its influence over Japan and China. Besides, King Genchogo made Doctor Gohyeng editSeogi(History) to establish the royal family’s authority and intensify its orthodoxy and sanctity. Therefore, it is not likely that Baekjae, which was at its peak of national power in those times, made golden crown and gilt bronze crown around the fifth century later than Goguryeo. Having Jeolpung as the important structure in official hats, both of the gilt bronze crowns with and without standing decorations were originated from the topknot of the Korean race’s hairstyle. There is a close relation between the style of official hats and the style of hair, Jeolpung and make hairstyle graceful by covering the topknot. This style was not used in Chinaand the Northern area. King Muryeong’s hair-ornaments were excavated from the grave of Baekjae’s King Muryeong near king’s head and ornamental hairpins were unearthed from the grave in Hamyang-li, Gyuam-myeon, Buyeo-gun, Chungcheongnam-do. Considering Jeolpung style, it is seemed that all these things were used to insert in hair to hold the whole hair upward. In Goguryeo, Baekjae and Silla, holding one’s hair upward is not only for men but also for women. Therefore, the excavation of Jeolpung in women’s grave is natural. From this fact, it is assumed that styles of golden crown used in Baekjae were not established by the influence of foreign cultures but there were some symbolization matching to the new dynasty with the change of Byeon and Jeolpung which were widely used by the ancient Korean race. Moreover, we can get the Korean race’s unique original form that had been usedsince early Gojoseon, lean-to decoration of the leaf shape and the style of the bent shape of jade and the trunk of the tree are the unique characteristics in aesthetic sense of Korean race.

고깔모자를 통해서 본 신라와 사카의 연관성에 관한 연구

이동아 ( Lee Dong A ) 한국동양예술학회 2021 동양예술 Vol.50 No.-

The ancient Korean dress was formed under the influence of the Saka (Scythia), and the Pointed hat, a symbol of the Saka people, was also worn in all Three Kingdoms Period. However, almost the same shape as Saka's Pointed hat appears only in Silla, and relics related to Saka also appear mainly in Silla. Among the various relics, hats are one of the representative means of symbolizing the nation in ancient times, and even if the same type of hats appear to different regions, This phenomenon can be seen very closely related to each other or are of the same ethnicity . Therefore, this study aims to find out the connection between Silla and Saka through Pointed hat. First, we can see that the Silla`s migration route in terms of literature, eclipse optimal observation, and comparative linguistics is almost consistent with the path of the Saka. Saka's Pointed hat, which reflects the bird worship, is divided into three main types, and the common shape appears to have been pointed and straight cones, which vary in height depending on their status. Silla's Pointed hat are also divided into three types: Type 1 and Type 2 are almost identical to that of Saka's Pointed hat, which is characterized by a straight cone with a blunt tip on the top, indicating that the Silla's Pointed hat is the same type as Saka's Pointed hat. As such, the three types of straight Pointed hat, which reflect the migration route and the bird worship, appeared in almost the same form. Therefore, given the symbolism of hats in ancient times, the researcher would like to raise the possibility that the Silla people wearing the same type of Pointed hat were descendant of Saka.

서울 마을굿 무속복식에 나타난 관모 연구

김은정 ( Eun Jung Kim ),임린 ( Lynn Yim ) 한국의류산업학회 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.3

This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman`s costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier`s felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride`s headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King`s official hat), and Daesu(Queen`s a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.

외국 高句麗 인물화에 나타난 닭깃털관(鷄羽冠)과 高句麗의 위상

서길수 고구려발해학회 2015 고구려발해연구 Vol.51 No.-

The present paper examined the examples of the rooster feathered hats of Koguri in East Asia figure paintings and artifacts, and tried to understand the significance of the Koguri type hat, and finally made the following conclusions drawn from those researches. 1. Among the examples of Koguri figure paintings found in the foreign countries, the earliest one was the Painting of the Portraits of Periodical Offering of Liang 梁職貢圖. The comparisons among the costumes and hairdress of the Three Kingdoms, Koguri, Paekche, and Silla show us that the most prominent feature of a Koguri envoy is the rooster feathered hat 鷄羽冠. 2. The painting of a Koguri figure painted on the dais of a Buddhist sculpture at Horyuji 法隆寺 in Japan is most likely a depiction of an envoy from Koguri, or a drawing done by someone from Koguri who knew the custom of the kingdom. It is only existing evidence of a painting of a human figure wearing a rooster feathered hat in Japan. 3. Next, the author examined the rooster feathered hat in the murals of the Tomb of Prince Zhanghuai of Tang. The date of the painting in 706, 38 years later than the collapse of Koguri, made some scholars to debate about the nationality of the envoy, either Palhae, Silla, or Koguri. The author argued that it is a Koguri envoy judging from two kinds of sources. The Koguri in the Painting of the Portraits of Periodical Offering of Liang and the envoy in the wall painting of the Prince Zhanghuai Tomb wear the same rooster feathered hat. It is different from a Silla envoy who is depicted without a feathered hat. Secondly, 『Fanyu zaming 梵語雜名』 called Kuri as Mu-kuri. Previously, it was assumed that the text was written 100 years after the collapse of Koguri and that Kuri in the text meant Palhae. However, the author suggested that 『Fanyu zaming 梵語雜名』 was actually based on the original text of 『Tang fan liang yu shuangdui ji 唐梵兩語雙對集』 written much before the establishment of the Tang(618). Hence, the wall painting in Li Xian’s Tomb must have drawn a Koguri envoy as they usually made tomb murals copied from a previous painting manual or based on the previous perception about a subject. 4. Four kinds of artifacts from the Tang dynasty were examined. 1) A silver bowl with the seven country names such as ① Konrun kingdom 崑崙王國 ② Paramun kingdom 婆羅門國 ③ Tobon kingdom 土蕃國 ④ Soruk kingdom 疏勒國 ⑤ Kori kingdom 高麗國 ⑥ Paekchok □kingdom 白拓□國 ⑦ Oman people 烏蠻人Five human figures in the fifth country called Kuri wear a rooster feathered hat. It is a scene of the distribution of a relic of the Buddha that eight countries including the Tang and the seven countries shared a sarira. 2) A sarira case with the illustration of Buddhist stories. It includes ‘the scene of carrying a funeral bier,‘ ’the scene of gathering of people riding an elephant and a horse,‘ ’ the scene of atlas figures moving a rock and taking out a jar,‘ and ’the scene of sharing a sarira.‘ In the last scene, there were two Koguri envoys with a rooster feathered hat. 3) A painting on a curtain to cover a sarira case placed in the underground chamber of a sarira pagoda. In the painting of ‘sharing a sarira,’ the figure on the right put his hands together as wearing a rooster feathered hat. 4) A sarira case with the title of ‘the kings from the eight countries including Emperor Qianyuan Xiaoyi 乾元孝義皇帝八國王等’ and with the depiction of eight country kings. Among them, there are a Koguri king and two vassals wearing a rooster feathered hat. The above mentioned artifacts deal with the Buddha’s relic. They showed the Tang-centered perspective. At the time of the death of the historical Buddha, eight countries divided the Buddha’s sarira and built a stupa. The Tang dynasty changed the story of sharing sarira with the Tang in the center and 7 neighboring ... 이 논문은 다음과 같은 연구를 더 심화시키는 연속 논문이다. ① 「高句麗ㆍ高麗의 나라이름(國名)에 관한 연구」를 하는 과정에서 검토한 ‘ - 서녘(西方)에서 부르는 ‘계귀(鷄貴)’를 중심으로 -」, 『高句麗渤海硏究』(50), 2014. ② 「춤무덤(舞踊塚)의 사신도와 조우관(鳥羽冠)에 대한 재검토 - 고구리(高句麗)의 닭 숭배 사상을 바탕으로-」, 『역사민속학』(46), 2014. 글쓴이는 ②의 논문에서 다음 두 가지 결론을 내렸다. 첫째, 지금까지 춤무덤에서 그려진 수탉 두 마리가 주작이라는 설이 일반화되었지만 그 수탉은 주작이 아니고 高句麗 사람들이 신으로 우러러 보는 닭의 신(鷄神)이라는 것을 3가지 사료를 새로 밝혀 증명하였다. 둘째, 지금까지 高句麗 사람들이 절풍에 꽂고 다닌 이른바 새 깃털로 만든 관(鳥羽冠)은 새 깃털이 아니라 닭 깃털로 만든 관(鷄羽冠)이라는 것을 밝혔다. 그리고 이와 같은 연구결과를 가지고 여러 곳의 高句麗 무덤 벽화에 그려진 깃털관이 사실은 닭 깃털로 만든 관(鷄羽冠)이라는 새로운 해석을 하였다. 이 논문에서는 이와 같은 연구의 연장선상에서 고구리(高句麗) 국내 뿐 아니라 외국에서 그린 그림들을 분석 검토하여 새로운 해석을 시도하는 것이 연구목적이다. 이 논문의 목적을 달성하기 위해 시대적으로는 양나라에서 당나라 이후까지, 지역으로는 일본에서 실크로드를 걸쳐 중아시아의 아프라시압까지 존재하는 절풍을 쓴 高句麗 인물화들을 가능한 한 모두 분석하였다. 그 결과 양나라 직공도, 당나라의 유물과 시, 일본에서 발견된 사신 그림, 돈황 벽화에 그려진 그림, 사마르칸트 아프라시압 벽화에서 발견된 高句麗 사람들은 모두 닭의 깃털을 꽂은 절풍, 곧 닭깃털관(鷄羽冠)을 쓰고 있었다는 것을 밝혔다. 다른 말로 하면 만약 이런 닭깃털관(鷄羽冠)이 없었다면 高句麗 사람이라는 것 자체를 알 수 없을 정도로 뚜렷한 高句麗 사람의 특징이고 이미지였다는 것을 알 수 있다. 이런 高句麗 사람의 닭깃털관(鷄羽冠) 이미지를 통해서 高句麗의 활동무대는 공간적으로 서역과 중앙아시아의 여러 나라와 한나라 이후 당나라, 그리고 일본까지 크넓은 국제사회 무대에서 활동하였고, 시간적으로는 668년 왕실이 당나라에 항복한 뒤로도 수 백 년 동안 그 명성이 이어진 高句麗의 높은 위상을 확인할 수 있었다.

황제내경영추(黃帝內經靈樞)에서 살펴본 팔회혈(八會穴)의 의의(意義)와 형성체계(形成體系)에 대한 연구(硏究)

이봉효,문진영,Lee, Bong-Hyo,Moon, Jin-Young 대한침구의학회 2005 대한침구의학회지 Vol.22 No.6

Objectives : Pal Hyue Hyul has been mentioned in $Nanky{\hat{o}}ng$ firstly and is a representitive acupoint of 8 parts of biological function of human body. The aim of this study is to finding out the process of formation of Pal Hyue Hyul. Methods : In this study we investigated and summarized all literetures from $Hwangjaenaeky{\hat{o}}ng$ to the today's papers which refer to Pal Hyue Hyul, and then basing on it, suggested our opinion about the correlation. Results & Conclusion : The results and conclusions obtained are as follow: 1. Pal Hyue Hyul is based on the Sahae theory of $Y{\hat{o}}ngchu$ and was formed in 45nan of $Nanky{\hat{o}}ng$. 2. Although Pal Hyue Hyul has been mentioned in $Nanky{\hat{o}}ng$ firstly, but because even $Nanky{\hat{o}}ng$ shows the quickening of Pal Hyue Hyul theory, the birth of Pal Hyue Hyul was necessary from the viewpoint of studing ambience. 3. About the reason for formation to 8 types, we think that all the biological functions of human body were represented as 8. 4. Pal Hyue theory had been suplemented and completed by annotations of successive medical men, for example the arguement about Golhyue, Suhyue. And the reason for the extent from the heat disease of the first phase to the associated disease is that it has been useful in the clinical treatment. 5. Because about whether Suhyue is Ch'imgol or $J{\hat{o}}lgol$, whether $J{\hat{o}}lgol$ is Yangbo(GB38) or $Hy{\hat{o}}njong(GB39)$, whether Golhyue is Teacu'u(GV14) or $Taej{{\hat{o}}}(BL11)$ there in no agreement of opinion among the successive medical men, much more study is necessary.

충남 강경(江景)의 밀짚모자 제조업의 특징과 변화 과정 연구

김혜숙,이대화 역사문화학회 2019 지방사와 지방문화 Vol.22 No.1

This paper deals with the period when straw hats began to be manufactured, technical features, and the production process and sales of the straw hat. It also examines the rise and decline of straw hat manufacturing and the changes in Korean society due to its impact specifically in Ganggyeong-eup, Nonsan-si, Chungcheongnam-do after the liberation. The production of the straw hat began in earnest after the liberation and enjoyed the peak period from the late 1950s to the late 1960s. However, it had decreased since the late 1970s and then closed down in 2000s. The reduction of workers due to rural mechanization, the emergence of various hats, and competition from Chinese raw materials as well as finished products were the reasons why straw hat factories had declined. These Ganggyeong’s straw hats used straw or barley stems as raw materials, but it is remarkable that they were mainly produced and distributed in large quantities using the timber of poplar. The method developed in Japan was introduced in Korea after the liberation. Since then, it became the main production method of straw hats’ manufacturing in Ganggyeong. 이 글은 해방 이후 충청남도 논산시 강경읍을 대상으로 이 지역에서 밀짚모자 제조가 시작된 시기와 기술적 특징, 밀짚모자의 생산과정과 판매 그리고 밀짚모자 제조업의 성쇠 과정과 이에 영향을 미친 한국사회의 변화 등을 다룬 연구이다. 강경의 밀짚모자 제조업은 해방 이후 본격적으로 시작되어, 1950년대 후반부터 1960년대 후반까지 전성기를 누렸다. 이후 1970년대 후반부터 쇠퇴하다가 2000년대 들어 전부 폐업하였다. 밀짚모자 공장이 사양화된 원인으로는 농촌기계화로 인한 노동인력의 감소, 다양한 모자의 등장, 중국산 완제품과의 경쟁 등을 들 수 있다. 이러한 강경의 밀짚모자는 원료로 밀짚이나 보릿대를 이용하기도 했지만, 주로 미루나무 계통의 목재를 켜서 땋는 방식으로 밀짚모자를 대량생산하고 유통시켰다는 점이 특징이다.

여성 모자 패턴제작을 위한 측정방법과 디자인 개발 연구

김차현(Cha Hyun Kim),안영실(Young Sill Ahn) 한국디자인문화학회 2010 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.16 No.2

본 연구는 성장하고 있는 모자산업에 발맞추어 한국 성인여성의 착용감이 좋은 모자패턴 및 디자인을 개발하기 위함에 목적에 있다. 모자 기본원형 제작의 기초가 되는 머리둘레는 모자 형태나 쓰는 방법의 변화에 따라 차이를 두어야한다는 점을 고려하여 분류된 각 대표 모자의 기본원형을 3D 스캔 데이터에 근거하여 제시하였으며, 이를 활용하여 디자인한 모자 4가지를 제작하였다. 이에 대한 연구 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 선행연구 및 문헌에서 정의한 각 머리둘레는 모자 쓰는 위치와 디자인에 따라 모자둘레와 차별을 두어 사용하여야 하며, 두상의 앞면에서는 이마시작점, 이마중간점, 눈살점이, 옆면에서는 귀바퀴위점, 뒷면에서는 뒤통수돌출점, 뒤통수점이 모자 패턴제작을 위한 주요한 계측점으로 지정될 필요가 있다. 둘째, 기존의 1차적인 머리 두께 및 너비길이에 근거한 머리둘레의 Master Oval Pattern 제작에 비하여 3D 스캔 데이터를 활용한 제작방법이 보다 더 쉽고 정확하게 구할 수 있었으므로 앞으로 대량생산 모자의 패턴제작에 있어서는 3D 계측방법의 적용이 활발히 이루어져야 할 것이다. 셋째, 제작된 모자 디자인에 따라 정확한 머리둘레 위치 및 형상을 고려하였기 때문에 착용감이 좋은 결과를 가져올 수 있었다. 넷째, 모자 형태의 분류에 따라 반구형, 원기둥형, 원반형, 무 크라운 모자의 기본원형을 제시하여 다양한 디자인 전개에 활용할 수 있었다. The purpose of this paper is to provide the growing millinery industry of Korea with basic patterns and design for Korean women`s hats. We begin with the idea that measurement and shape of head circumference is dependent upon hat design and ways of wearing hats. Accordingly, we categorize hats according to their forms and shapes. Then we present basic patterns for selected hats from each category based on 3D scan data of head block models. We also made four sample hats using the basic patterns we developed. Main results are: First, principal measurement points should include glabella, the mid point of forehead, and crinion in the frontal head, occiput and inion at the back of the head, euryon on the side. Second, 3D scan data provides easier and more exact measurement and shape than the head circumference based on the uni-dimensional measurements of head length and head width for making the master oval pattern. We suggest that measurements based on the 3D scan data should be used widely for pattern-making, especially in mass production of hats. Third, the richer and more flexible set of measurements based on the 3D scan data resulted in a better fit of hats with different designs. Forth, our four basic hat patterns(domed, cylinder, discus, and non-crown) served well for the development of various hat plans and designs.