http://chineseinput.net/에서 pinyin(병음)방식으로 중국어를 변환할 수 있습니다.
변환된 중국어를 복사하여 사용하시면 됩니다.
개별검색 DB통합검색이 안되는 DB는 DB아이콘을 클릭하여 이용하실 수 있습니다.
통계정보 및 조사
예술 / 패션
<해외전자자료 이용권한 안내>
- 이용 대상 : RISS의 모든 해외전자자료는 교수, 강사, 대학(원)생, 연구원, 대학직원에 한하여(로그인 필수) 이용 가능
- 구독대학 소속 이용자: RISS 해외전자자료 통합검색 및 등록된 대학IP 대역 내에서 24시간 무료 이용
- 미구독대학 소속 이용자: RISS 해외전자자료 통합검색을 통한 오후 4시~익일 오전 9시 무료 이용
※ 단, EBSCO ASC/BSC(오후 5시~익일 오전 9시 무료 이용)
The purpose of this study is to present the study method in order to analysis the fashion phenomena in popular culture by popular culture theory. The method of this study is showed the method of fashion culture, after it was examined that the trends of popular cultural method, the type of Koran popular culture discussion, and the relationship of fashion and popular culture. The results of this study are following as: 1. Analysis of this study are structuralism stand and culturalism stand, and the application of criticism about the cultural technology in a new stand by means of the composition of Gramscic. A and Foucalul. 2. Application of the ethnographic access method as anthropological approach method about C. Geertz's culture. This is to describe and interpret the practice of subject through directive observation and conduct on a spot, thus is likely to be useful in the fashion study. 3. It needs a historical access method for that purpose, If it applicate Weber's methodology, it will have the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the basis of realistic conditions(historical data), and would appear that the peculiar apportunity of mental(cultural) progressional process became definitive explanation. 4. It must be made up of the discussion (which is) based on the durability of tradition and culture. It is undeniable that the discussion, which related to popular culture up to the present, showed the disconnectedness of the past tradition and culture, and naturally accepts it's connection to epepistemology. The cultural study is a theory interested in what it brings about, what way it's organized and what way it's used. The research of the fashion's connection to popular culture is composed of such topic : how fashion is produces, how it is consumed, and then, the proposition whic his concerned in what meaning it produce is made up of. The regulation of the realm of this research will be to help a researcher explain where to begin and how to do it. Although this cultural study method is more or less quantitative, or despite the expense of the accuracy of statistical analysis, this means that such method of cultural research needs to give attention to both aspects of phenomena and basic problems.
This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as fallows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied costumes cultures and those Journal of Korean Home Economics have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio -Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing rotated study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.
The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.
This thesis, drastically breaking from the prior form of art, searched mutual relationship between surrealism centering around surrealism which tried to liberate the spirit fo humanbeing by investigating internal world of the humanbeing. That is to say, it is the purpose of this thesis to study the relationship between artistic trend and costume by grasping how the artistic trend of an age was specifically accepted and expressed to the modern costume as the foundation of fashion. Followings are the searched results for searching mutual relationship of the surrealism and modern costume. At first, surrealism made it possible from modern custume to an expression of formative art, and at the same time emerge from existed uniform coustume, and thus presented new possibility to the harmony of costume and art with fresh and avant-garde sense. Second, by being applied the expressing method of depaysement which could materialize surrealistic image to the modern costume from various angles, and thus it suggensted new aesthetic conception different form general conception f the traditional costume. Third, with regard to modern costume, introduction of various object due to thought of surrealism was a new and innovative attempt, and thus it suggested infinitive possibility of creation. So, it suggested that we could thrown away a fixed idea and that every objects could be moulded. As the result of the afore-sad, wide application of the idea and formative feature of surrealism with regard to modern costume did not only bring the diversification and individualization of the costume escaped from the past traditional idea, but also at the same time prepared modern costume with the moment to develop as a formative arts.
Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing". Fashion illustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a 'mirror of costumes' in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into ist characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those day. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonnar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The Characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows: 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustration of 17th century showed strong realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes' record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the frist on e of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar's ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description likde accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion illustrations for working class were under the influence of Netherland style. They were designed for the purpose of good function and much use. That's why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation ,the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time. they were supplied widely and it may be and attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistis expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.
Costumes of Song Dynasty developed after the patterns of the Tang. The rise of idealist philosophy in the Song Dynasty had a great impact on the life of the people. Under the influence of this ideology, people's views on aesthetics changed considerably. In architecture, for example, white washed walls and black tiles came into fashion. Balustrades, pillars and roof beams were left unpainted so as to retain the true colour of the wood. In paintings, also, simplicity and delicacy were valued, and the preferred medium was ink or light colours. The desire for simplicity was even more evidently reflected in clothing and related adornment, as public opinion was against excessive display in dress. Consequently, the clothing of the Song Dynasty was quite reserved and conservative, with fewer variations and quieter colours, thus conveying a feeling of simplicity and naturalness. Compared with the dress of Tang, the dress of the Song Dynasty had other variations. Therefore women's dress of Song was also quite reserved and conservative, with fewer variations and quieter colours, simplicity and naturalness.
The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis: man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summarized as fallows: It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Olny one name of woman's costume appeared in the text: It was a kind of long vests, However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.
This paper examines Haniwa costume inthe Hoboon period of Japan. The results are as follows. 1. Haniwa costume consisted of two pieces, the upper one and the lower one: Man wore Jacket and Pants, woman wore Jacket and Skirt: besides, they wore several ornaments such as hats, necklaces, earings, bracelets. 2. When it was introduced, tow-piece costume signified, symbolically, the authority of the chieftain and his near men wore it. 3. Before it was introduced, their proper costume had been the same kind of costume as Whoengpok-costume and Hwandu-costume, which was the primitive costume in the South counties. That costume was fit both for the hot and wet nature of Japan and for the working lower-class, so it was continuously worn by the lower-class after two-piece costume had been introduced. 4. In the Goboon period of Japan, a unified goverment with the class ruling was established for the first time. Thus, this social order was refected in costume as a whole, and costume had such class-oriented features.
This research has been studied the influence of Song Dynasty mode upon clothes and ornaments of Korea Dynasty by Seo Gung's(徐競)『SunWhaBongSa KoryoDoKyung』(宣和奉使高麗圖經) and in Korea Dynasty period, by Buddhist picture. The clothing of the Song Dynasty was quite reserved and conservative, fewer variations and quiter colours thus conveying a feeling of simplicity and naturaness, Their clothing were no more luxurious than the clothing of Dang Dynasty. We had read that when Seo Gung visited Korea for month, and then it is in Emperor Injong's reign(A.D. 1123). Korea women's clothes and ornaments were followed by Song dynasty's clothing pattern as much as he took notice of Korea women's clothing. Korea DoKyung showed Song women's clothing that whal clothing(華衣), Yuansam(圖經) were Korea women's ceremonial dress and so, Koryo women's clothings were very influenced by Song's mode. The conclusions of the research are as follow found out that Korea women's a ceremonial dresses were very similar to Song's.