30 ∼ 40대 한국여성이 선호하는 피부색에 대한 연구

강내규 ( Nae Gyu Kang ),곽택종 ( Taek Jong Kwak ),김정아 ( Jung A Kim ),김태훈 ( Tae Hoon Kim ),문태기 ( Tae Kee Moon ),박선규 ( Sun Gyoo Park ),송다영 ( Da Young Song ),이수진 ( Su Jin Lee ),장민열 ( Min Youl Chang ),장희정 ( Hee 대한화장품학회 2014 대한화장품학회지 Vol.40 No.4

피부는 인체의 외부를 덮고 있는 기관일 뿐 아니라, 체온을 조절하고, 감각기능을 수행하며, 약물을 투입하는 경로가 되기도 하고 내부 기관의 이상을 표현하는 기관이 되기도 한다. 이러한 이유로 인해, 사람들은 타인의 얼굴 피부의 상태를 보고 건강의 이상 징후를 감지하거나, “안색이 좋다”, “생기가 있다” 등으로 신체의 컨디션을 표현해왔다. 환경과 노화정도에 따라서 피부색, 피부결, 수분, 탄력 등이 달라지는 것도 알려진 사실이다. 특히, 피부색은 아름다움, 매력도와 같은 주관적인 인상을 판단하는데 영향을 미치는 인자로 작용하는데, 화장품이나 피부시술을 통해 피부색을 개선하고자 하는 소비자를 통해서 그 수요를 짐작할 수 있다. 하지만 피부색이 여러 색의 구성임에도 불구하고, 대부분의 화장품이 하얀 피부로 개선해주는 것에 초점을 맞추고 있으며 여성들이 선호하는 피부색에 대한 연구가 아직까지는 미흡한 실정이다. 본 연구에서는 30 ∼ 40대의 한국여성을 대상으로 같은 피부 밝기에서 붉은 정도와 푸른 정도가 달리 주어진 선호도 조사를 통해 긍정적으로 인식하는 피부색의 상태를 발견하였다. 한국여성은 실제 평균 피부색에 비해 붉은색과 푸른색이 높은 피부를 선호하는 것으로 나타났으며, 피부에 대한 표현을 달리하였을 때에도 경향은 유사하였다. 본 연구 결과는 새로운 소비자의 요구를 만족시키는 제품 개발에 활용될 수 있을 것이라고 생각한다. The skin is an organ that covers the outside of the human body. And it regulates body temperature, performs sensory function, deliveries the drug, and represents the abnormality of the internal organs. For these reasons, people have been expressing the condition of the body based on the state of the skin of the face to detect sign of health, “you look well”, “face with vitality”. Depending on the degree of aging and the environment, it is a fact that skin color, skin texture, moisture and firmness could be different. In particular, the color of the skin acts as a factor that affects to determine the subjective impression such as beauty and charm. We could expect consumer’s demand through the market of whitening cosmetics and skin treatment. However, existing most of the cosmetics focus on improving whiteness. The number of studies that focused on skin color is not enough. In this study, we found out the skin color condition by carrying out surveys of 100 women between 30s and 40s. Our study would be very useful to develop new cosmetic products and to satisfy customer’s needs.

파지 디스플레이를 이용한 피부 투과 기능성 펩타이드의 개발

이설훈,강내규,이상화 대한약학회 2013 약학회지 Vol.57 No.2

Biologically active peptides, including growth factors and cytokines, participate in various biological processes in human skin. They could provide a great advantage of maintaining healthy skin. Many peptide growth factors like epi- dermal growth factor (EGF) and human growth hormone (hGH) have been used in cosmetic formulations. The delivery of peptide growth factors across the Stratum corneum, however, seems not sufficient because of their physical properties such as high molecular weight and hydrophilicity. So increasing the penetration of growth factors of interest into skin would be a major concern for ensuring their maximum biological efficacy. In this study, we have identified several skin penetration- enhancing peptides which facilitate delivery of growth factors, when fused at N-terminus of the target protein, into skin. For efficient and rapid screening, we constructed a skin-penetrating assay system using Franz cell and porcine skin. Next, we carried out phage display screening using M-13 bacteriophage with random 12 –amino acid library on its coat protein P3 on that system. After several selection rounds, peptide sequences facilitate the penetration of phages through the porcine skin were identified from a large population of phages. We found that phages with the most potent peptide (S3-2, NGSLNTHLAPIL) could penetrate the porcine skin eight times more than those with control peptide (12 mino acids scram- bled peptide). Furthermore, growth factors conjugated with S3-2 peptide penetrate porcine skin three to five times effi- ciently than non-conjugated growth factors. In conclusion, our data shows that the skin penetration-enhancing peptide we have characterized could increase the delivery of growth factors and is useful for cosmeceutical application.

감초추출물(Glycyrrhiza glabra Extract)의 피부에서의 DNA 손상 방지효과

신재영,강내규 사단법인 대한화장품학회 2022 대한화장품학회지 Vol.48 No.1

Ultraviolet B (UVB) damages DNA residues in skin keratinocytes. In particular, the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), a pyrimidine residue damage in DNA, is considered a representative indicator of skin photoaging. In this study, we confirmed defensive effect of Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) extract against UVB induced DNA damage. First of all, we confirmed UVB dependent amount of CPD formation in human keratinocyte cell line. UVB induced CPD was decreased by G. glabra extract by dose dependent manner. In addition, it was confirmed that the expression of mRNA of DNA damage recovery factors was increased by G. glabra extract. Consequently, through this study, it was possible to confirm the DNA protection effect of G. glabra extract in skin keratinocytes. 자외선인 ultraviolet B (UVB)는 피부각질세포의 DNA 잔기에 손상을 준다. 특히, DNA의 pyrimidine 잔기 손상인 cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD)의 형성은 피부 광노화의 대표적인 지표로 여겨진다. 본연구에서는 피부 각질세포에서 UVB에 의한 DNA 손상을 완화 시키는 소재로 감초추출물(Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, G. glabra extract)의 효능을 확인하였다. 먼저 피부각질세포에서 UVB 의존적으로 CPD형성이 증가하는 것을 확인하였다. 이후 감초추출물에 의해 UVB 유발 CPD 형성이 유의하게 줄어드는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 추가로 DNA 손상회복 인자의 mRNA 발현이 감초추출물에 의해 증가하는 것도 확인하였다. 결론적으로 본 연구를 통해 감초추출물의 피부각질세포에서의 DNA 보호 효과를 확인할 수 있었다.

광학 현미경을 이용한 모발 내부 다공성 평가 및 모발 내부 밀도 증가를 통한 윤기 증가 연구

박현섭,손성길,강내규,이익현 사단법인 대한화장품학회 2023 대한화장품학회지 Vol.49 No.3

본 연구에서는 모발 내부의 다공성 구조를 광학 현미경을 이용하여 모발의 손상 없이 관찰하였으며, 해당 결과를 이용하여 모발 내부 다공성을 정량적으로 표현하고자 하였다. 모발 내부 밀도 저하가 모발의 굽힘및 인장 특성에 미치는 영향에 대한 실험을 진행하였으며, 모발 내부의 밀도 저하를 발생시키는 원인에 대하여알아보고자 내인적 요인과 외인적 요인에 대한 실험을 실시하였다. 내인적 요인으로는 노화의 대표 증상의 하나인 흰머리의 다공성을 평가 정상 모발과 비교하였다. 외인적 요인으로는 일상생활에서 대표적으로 모발의 손상을유발할 수 있는 요인인 계면활성제와 열에 의하여 모발 내부 밀도가 감소 하는 것을 관찰하였다. 또한, 아미노산과모발 지질 소질을 방지할 수 있는 소재를 이용하여 모발 내부 밀도를 증가시키고 윤기를 증가시킬 수 있음을확인하였다. In this study, the porous structure inside the hair were observed using an optical microscope without damaging the hair, and the porosity inside the hair was quantitatively expressed using the results. Experiments were conducted on the effect of the decrease in density inside the hair on the bending and tensile properties of the hair, and experiments on endogenous and extrinsic factors were conducted to find out the causes of the decrease in density inside the hair. As for the endogenous factor, the porosity of gray hair, one of the representative symptoms of aging, was compared with normal hair. As for extrinsic factors, it was observed that the internal density of hair decreased by surfactant and heat, which are factors that can cause hair damage in daily life. In addition, we confirmed whether it is possible to increase the internal density and luster of the hair by using an amino acids and material that can prevent hair lipid predisposition.

Role of Polyvinylpyrrolidone in Dissolving Microneedle for Efficient Transdermal Drug Delivery: In vitro and Clinical Studies

심우선,황영민,박선규,이천구,강내규 대한화학회 2018 Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society Vol.39 No.6

The purpose of this study is to find an optimum composition of microneedles that penetrate the skin and rapidly dissolve within the cutaneous layer in a few minutes. A micromolding method was introduced to prepare drug?loaded dissolving microneedles by using biocompatible, water?soluble polymers such as carboxymethylcellulose, hyaluronic acid, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). The microneedles had a sharp structure with a needle tip of about 5 ?m. The microneedles penetrated into the skin with 90% skin penetration rate, and they were dissolved within minutes to release the drug. An increase in the content of PVP in the microneedle increased the dissolution rate of the microneedles in the skin and the needle strength to penetrate the skin, and resulted in an increased skin permeation of the drug. The drug?loaded microneedles were applied to the wrinkles shown around the eyes (crow's feet) of female subjects for 8 weeks, and we observed statistically significant disappearance of wrinkle after 4 weeks. The newly developed dissolving needles showed efficient drug delivery and can be considered a valuable, high?functioning, potential wrinkle improving treatment.

Cedrol 및 펩타이드 3 종 Complex 의 In Vitro 효능 및 적용 제형의 입술 주름 개선 및 Volumization 효과에 대한 연구

강성수,전승현,이진용,안명진,강내규 사단법인 대한화장품학회 2023 대한화장품학회지 Vol.49 No.4

입술은 인간의 매력을 표현할 수 있는 대표적인 안면부 부위로써, 이에 대한 미적 관심은 인류 역사에서항상 존재해왔다. 그러나 입술은 노화가 진행됨에 따라, 주름이 형성되고, 얇아지고, 그 볼륨이 감소하는 경향을가지며, 이를 대처하기 위해 필러나 지방 이식 등 시술이 시행되곤 한다. 본 연구에서는 립세린® 에 적용된 주효능 컴플랙스인 cedrol과 펩타이드 3 종(acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, desamidocollagen)의조합이 광노화 방어 및 입술 주름을 개선할 수 있음을 in vitro상에서 검증하였다. 피부 섬유아세포의 콜라겐과엘라스틴 발현량을 향상, 광노화 조건에서 MMP 발현을 경감하는 효과를 검증하였다. 또한 지방 줄기 세포분화 실험에서 지방 줄기 세포 분화 촉진 및 지방 생성량을 증대시킴으로, 입술 내 지방 조직량을 증가시킬수 있음을 in vitro상에서 그 가능성을 확인하였다. 2 주간 사용된 인체 적용 시험에서도, 입술의 주름, 결, 탄력, 볼륨이 개선되는 효과를 확인하였다. 본 연구는 cedrol 및 펩타이드 3 종 조합이 입술의 다양한 노화징후를 해결할 수 있는 효과적인 립케어 소재로써 활용 가능함을 검증하였다. Since the lips are a representative facial part that can express human attraction, aesthetic interest in them has always existed in human history. However, as lips age, they tend to form wrinkles, become thinner, and lose their volume. To counteract this phenomenon, medical procedures such as fillers or fat transplantation have been suggested. In this study, we verified that the one of main effective material complex of L G H&H L IPCERIN® , combination of cedrol, a sesquiterpene found in cedarwood, and three peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, and desamidocollagen) could ameliorate the photo-aging and reduce the wrinkles through in vitro experiments. The possibility of improving collagen and elastin expression in skin fibroblasts and reducing MMP expression under photoaging conditions was verified. In addition, it was confirmed that the amount of fat tissue in the lips can be increased by promoting adipose stem cell differentiation and increasing the amount of fat produced in the in vitro adipose stem cell differentiation experiment. Two weeks of human application tests confirmed that a combination of cedrol and peptides can improve the wrinkles, texture, elasticity, and volume of the lips. This study verified that the combination of cedrol and three peptides can be used as effective cosmetic materials to decrease the various signs of aging in the lips.

모발 수분 함량 평가를 위한 가열 온도와 기준 수분 정량 조건 연구

송상훈,주장호,박현섭,손성길,강내규 사단법인 대한화장품학회 2024 대한화장품학회지 Vol.50 No.1

최근에 모발 케어 화장품 효능으로서 모발 보습 효과를 소구하려는 시도가 있지만 아직까지 모발 수분추출을 어떤 온도에서 진행해야 하는지 평가법이 정해져 있지 않아 공인된 인체시험 평가가 없는 실정이다. 모발 수분 정량평가법을 확립하기 위해서 본 연구는 진행되었다. 모발 수분의 거동 패턴을 확인하기 위해 할로겐수분 분석기로 온도를 다르게 하여 모발에 열을 가할 경우 수분 검출량은 가열 온도가 증가하면 계속 늘어나는것을 확인하였다. 시차주사열량계로 모발의 흡열 반응 에너지를 평가한 결과 75 ℃ 부근에서 급격한 흡열 반응이일어나는 특이한 현상을 관찰하였다. 인종별로 다른 모발에서도 이 현상은 관찰되었다. 모발 큐티클 장벽을산화, 열로 손상시킨 모발에서는 급격히 상승하는 이 흡열 반응 온도가 조금 더 높은 77 ℃에서 일어났고, 이모발을 극성오일 또는, 컨디셔닝 폴리머나 케라틴 단백질로 도포한 경우에는 73 ℃에서 관찰되었다. 이 반응이모발 표면에서 어떤 영향을 미치는지 알아보기 위해서 원자현미경으로 마찰력을 관찰한 결과 75 ℃ 보다 높은온도에서 가열할 때 큐티클 마찰력이 상승하고 그보다 높은 90 ℃에서는 변화가 없는 것을 관찰하였다. 마침내75 ℃ 근처가 모발에 결합된 수분 분자의 탈착이 본격적으로 일어나는 임계온도임을 결론내렸다. 이를 통해모발 수분을 검출해서 정량화하기 위한 조건으로 75 ℃가 가열온도로 최적합하고 이 때 검출된 수분량 10% 가량이 모발 케어 화장품 처리 전과 후를 비교할 수 있는 모발 수분 정량 기준값이 될 수 있음을 제시하였다. Recently, there have been attempts to claim the hair moisturizing effect for a hair care product, however there has not yet been an official evaluation method because heating temperature for hair has not been established. This study was conducted to establish a quantitative evaluation for hair water content. In order to observe the behavior of water inside hair, heat was applied to hair with various temperatures using thermogravimetric dry residue. As the heating temperature increased, the amount of moisture released from the hair increased. As a result of evaluating hair using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), a unique phenomenon in which a rapid endothermic reaction occurs around 75 ℃ was observed. This phenomenon was also observed in different ethnic hair. In hair that damaged the hair cuticle barrier with oxidation and heat, this rapidly rising endothermic reaction temperature occurred at 77 ℃, which was slightly higher, and 73 ℃ was observed when this hair was applied with polar oil, conditioning polymer, or keratin protein. To determine how this reaction affects the hair surface, friction test was performed using an atomic force microscope. When heated above 75 ℃, cuticle friction increased, however when heated above 90 ℃, there was no change in hair cuticle friction. Finally, it was confirmed that around 75 ℃ is the critical temperature at which desorption of water bound to the hair occurs. It is suggested that a heating temperature of 75 ℃ is the optimal temperature for detecting and quantifying the moisture content of hair, and that approximately 10% detected at 75 ℃ can be a standard value for hair moisture content.

Sorption Behaviors of Cotton, Kapok, and Rayon Fibers in Heavy Metal Solutions

강영웅,박범수,박선규,강내규,김형섭,Kang, Young-Woong,Park, Beom-Su,Park, Sun-Gyoo,Kang, Nae-Gyu,Kim, Hyung-Sup The Korean Fiber Society 2011 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.48 No.6

In the study, the sorption behaviors of three different cellulose fibers were investigated using heavy metal solutions(Pb(II) and Cd(II)). The sorption dose during the adsorption and desorption was measured using an inductively coupled plasma spectrometer. The initial sorption by cotton was greater than that of the other fibers, while the total adsorption dose of rayon was larger than that of the others. The desorption dose of heavy metal ions from the fiber was negligibly small, indicating that the ions are very strongly physic-ochemically attached to the fiber.

서해안 염생식물 퉁퉁마디의 발아지속과 복원

김기훈 ( Ki Hoon Kim ),강내규 ( Nae Kyu Kang ),송우람 ( Uh Ram Song ),이은주 ( Eun Ju Lee ) 한국환경과학회 2012 한국환경과학회지 Vol.21 No.2

Salicornia europaea (glasswort) is succulent, annual, halophytic plant mainly distributed throughout reclaimed land or salt marsh. It has strong tolerance to salt so that it plays the part of the pioneer species in the first succession. According to domestic and foreign studies, S. europaea contains plenty of minerals and antioxidant in the body. Since people take note of an availableness of this plant as health diet, the natural growth sites are threatened. In addition to development of salt marsh and sea shore, imprudent harvest has a bad effect to S. europaea population maintenance. To seek ways to preserve the population of this plant, we carried out the continuity of seed germination and restoration test. Seokmo Island, Daebu Island, Youngjong Island and Sudokwon landfill in Korea are selected sites for research. Result of germination continuity shows that most S. europaea seeds germinate on March but no more after July. However the germination was occurred after that time in the greenhouse. So we concluded that no germination after July is a matter of environmental condition not the number of remaining seeds. Also germination was seldom occurred in the spot where seeds production was not happened. In result of continuity test of seed germination by soil depth, germination was occurred vigorously only in top soil. From these results, we note that most S. europaea germinate in the early spring, and germination is finished by July. And this rapid germination speed makes the number of seeds in soil seed bank rare. If a large number of S. europaea in some area are harvested after July, the number of this species will dramatically decrease in that area the following year. In Seokmo Island, we carried out reintroduction experiment by sowing S. europaea seeds. On the first year, a small number of S. europaea settled and they produced seeds successfully. On April 2010, the second year, we observed many S. europaea in seed sowing sites. And we found out that plowing is more efficient than treatment sea water for settlement of S. europaea.

입술의 주름, 탄력, 보습 개선을 위한 각질 박리 복합물이 함유된 립밤의 임상 효능 평가

박지예,신재영,이진용,안명진,강내규 사단법인 대한화장품학회 2023 대한화장품학회지 Vol.49 No.4

입술은 구조적으로 일반 피부와 다른 특유의 각질, 보습 특성을 갖는다. 특히, 각질의 턴오버 주기가빠르고 최외곽 각질층이 얇아 비교적 각질의 발생량이 많고, 부속기관이 존재하지 않아 수분 유지에 매우 취약한환경을 가지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 새롭게 개발될 립케어 제품의 타겟을 각질-보습-장벽 세 가지로 설정하고각 맞춤 소재의 개선 가능성을 확인하는 것을 목표로 하여 각질 박리 효능이 있는 소재 3 종에 대해, 각질, 보습, 장벽 개선 효능을 검증하였다. 구체적으로 Bacillus clausii extract에 의한 각질 개선, 글루코노락톤에의한 피부 수분 보유량 개선, 세린에 의한 장벽 기능 강화 효능을 확인하였다. 립케어의 인체 효능 검증을 위해각 효능 성분의 자극이 없는 범위의 농도를 설정하여 립밤 제조 및 인체 효능 평가를 진행하였고, 입술 각질·보습·탄력·주름 개선의 효능이 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 결과적으로 입술의 각질-보습-장벽 케어를 통해 입술의 미용, 건강 지표가 개선될 수 있음을 확인하고 해당 소재들을 립세린 제품에 적용하였다. Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.