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        조선전기 『악학궤범』의 여기(女妓) 흑장삼(黑長衫) 복원

        김이숙,최연우 한복문화학회 2023 韓服文化 Vol.26 No.3

        흑장삼(黑長衫)은 ‘검은색의 길이가 긴 큰 옷’이라는 의미이다. 조선전기에 궁중 연향에서 춤을 담당했던 여기(女妓)가 착용한 옷이다. 『악학궤범』은 성종 24년(1493) 편찬된 책으로, 조선시대 궁중 음악과 무용에 관해 종합적으로 규정하였다. 이 책의 권9 「관복도설(冠服圖說)」에서는 음악인과 무용인의 복식에 관해 그림과 글자로 설명하였고, 그 내용 중의 ‘여기복식(女妓服飾)’에는 여기가 입는 흑장삼의 치수, 색, 형태, 직물 등이 명시되어 있다. 『악학궤범』에 관한 선행연구 중 여기의 흑장삼을 고증해 제작한 연구가 없으므로, 본 연구는 『악학궤범』에 수록된 도설을 분석하고 기타 회화자료와 유물을 참고하여 조선전기 여기의 흑장삼과 허리띠를 제작하였다. 옷을 제작할 때 먼저 확정해야 하는 것은 자[尺]의 종류와 척도(尺度)이다. 『악학궤범』에는 옷감에 포백척(布帛尺)을 쓴다는 기록이 있으므로 이를 따랐다. 조선전기 포백척 1척(尺)은 약 46.66cm이다. 「관복도설」의 흑장삼 그림과 설명에서는 총길이, 화장, 뒷품, 뒷도련 너비, 수구 등의 치수, 그리고 대의 길이와 너비가 확인된다. 이들 치수를 포백척으로 환산해 옷 제작에 적용하였다. 또 『악학궤범』에서 확인되지 않는 세부 형태와 치수는 참조유물을 실제 조사하여 적용하였다. 복원용 옷감은 기록에 근거해 얇은 옷감인 사(紗)로 하였다. 허리띠는 기록에 근거해 홍색 초(綃)로 복원하였고, 무늬는 부금(附金)의 기법으로 원문(圓紋)을 표현하였다. Black-Jangsam(黑長衫) means a long black robe. It is a garment worn by a Yeo-gi, a female dancer in charge of dancing at a court banquet in the early Joseon Dynasty. Akhak-gwebeom was compiled in the 24th year of King Seongjong (1493) and comprehensively defined court music and dance in the Joseon Dynasty. In Volume 9 of this book, 「Gwanbok-doseol (冠服圖說)」, the costumes of musicians and dancers are explained with pictures and text. The size, color, shape, and fabric of Black-Jangsam worn by the Yeo-gi are specified in the part of ‘Yeo-gi’s dress (女妓服飾).’ Among the previous studies on Akhak-gwebeom, there has yet to be a study on historical research and production of Black-Jangsam. Therefore, in this study, Yeo-gi's Black-Jangsam and belt in the early Joseon Dynasty were determined by referring to the illustrations contained in 『Akhak Gwebeom』, other pictorial materials, and excavated artifacts, and the Yeo-gi's Black-Jangsam and belt in the early Joseon Dynasty were produced. The type and size of the ruler are first determined when making clothes, and there is a record of using a Pobaek-cheok (布帛尺) in Akhak-Gwebeom, so this study followed. In the early Joseon Dynasty, one cheok (尺) of Pobaek-cheok was approximately 46.66cm. In the picture and description of Black-Jangsam in 「Gwanbok-doseol」 of Akhak-gwebeom, the dimensions of the total length, sleeve length, back width, back under line's width, sleeve end's width, and the length and width of the belt are confirmed. These dimensions were converted into Pobaek-cheok and applied to the production of clothes. In addition, detailed shapes and dimensions that were not confirmed in Akhak-gwebeom were applied by examining reference artifacts. The fabric for restoration was made of Sa (紗), a thin fabric, based on the records. The belt was restored with red Cho (綃) based on the record. The pattern of the belt was a round pattern (圓紋), and it was expressed using the technique of Bugeum (附金).

      • KCI등재

        In-Depth, Proteomic Analysis of Nasal Secretions from Patients With Chronic Rhinosinusitis and Nasal Polyps

        김이숙,한도현,진엽,대우,용민,모지훈,최효근,박종완,신현우 대한천식알레르기학회 2019 Allergy, Asthma & Immunology Research Vol.11 No.5

        Purpose: Chronic rhinosinusitis (CRS) is a complex immunological condition, and novel experimental modalities are required to explore various clinical and pathophysiological endotypes; mere evaluation of nasal polyp (NP) status is inadequate. Therefore, we collected patient nasal secretions on filter paper and characterized the proteomes. Methods: We performed liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (MS)/MS in the data-dependent acquisition (DDA) and data-independent acquisition (DIA) modes. Nasal secretions were collected from 10 controls, 10 CRS without NPs (CRSsNP) and 10 CRS with NPs (CRSwNP). We performed Orbitrap MS-based proteomic analysis in the DDA (5 controls, 5 CRSsNP and 5 CRSwNP) and the DIA (5 controls, 5 CRSsNP and 5 CRSwNP) modes, followed by a statistical analysis and a hierarchical clustering to identify differentially expressed proteins in the 3 groups. Results: We identified 2,020 proteins in nasal secretions. Canonical pathway analysis and gene ontology (GO) evaluation revealed that interleukin (IL)-7, IL-9, IL-17A and IL-22 signaling and neutrophil-mediated immune responses like neutrophil degranulation and activation were significantly increased in CRSwNP compared to control. The GO terms related to the iron ion metabolism that may be associated with CRS and NP development. Conclusions: Collection of nasal secretions on the filter paper is a practical and non-invasive method for in-depth study of nasal proteomics. Our proteomic signatures also support that Asian NPs could be characterized as non-eosinophilic inflammation features. Therefore, the proteomic profiling of nasal secretions from CRS patients may enhance our understanding of CRS endotypes.

      • KCI등재

        아버지가 지각한 부부갈등이 유아의 문제행동에 미치는 영향: 아버지 양육행동의 매개효과

        김이숙 한국보육지원학회 2016 한국보육지원학회지 Vol.12 No.2

        The purpose of this study is to analyze the effect of marital conflicts perceived by fathers on preschoolers’behavior problems, and to investigate the mediating effect of paternal child rearing behavior. This study used survey data on 4 year-old infants which was conducted in 2012(5th year) by KICCE. Correlation analysis and structural equation were conducted using SPSS 23 and AMOS 23 for the data analysis, and the results of this study are as follows. First, marital conflicts perceived by fathers and preschoolers behavior problems showed a positive correlation, and they especially showed a greater positive correlation with offensive behavior, anxiety/depression, and other problems. On the other hand, it was identified that paternal child rearing behavior has a negative correlation with marital conflict and preschoolers’behavior problems when paternal child rearing behavior is compassionate and dominant. Secondly, it was identified that warm parenting behavior of fathers mediates the effect of marital conflicts on preschoolers’behavior problems. However, it was verified that the mediating effect of controlling parenting behavior is not significant. On the other hand, it was identified that the mediating effect of warm parenting behavior of fathers has a greater effect on internalized problems than external problems.

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