패션 커뮤니케이션과 전시 공간 - 메종 마틴 마르지엘라의 패션 전시 디자인을 중심으로 -

장라윤 ( Ra Yoon Jang ),양숙희 ( Sook Hi Yang ) 복식문화학회 2011 服飾文化硏究 Vol.19 No.6

The purpose of this study is to investigate the means by which designers communicate their philosophies and messages through fashion exhibitions, which are one of the communication methods that use visual images, by focusing on the aesthetics of fashion exhibition design. For this study, previous studies related to design exhibitions were analyzed, in addition to the related theoretical background, by examining the existing literature and conducting an illustrative study on fashion exhibitions. Our illustrative study focused on the aesthetic meanings of exhibitions held by the fashion brand Maison Martin Margiela over the past 10 years. According to our analyses, the fashion philosophy of fashion designer Martin Margiela`s was reflected by Maison Martin Margiela in the exhibition design. After studying the features of Maison Martin Margiela`s exhibition design, the inner values of deconstructivism and mysticism and appearance techniques of trompe-l`oeil, white spirit and assemblage were observed. This study aims to supply basic data for an active research on consilience and communication conducted in fashion communication field through a fashion exhibition designed to be seen as a work, an objet of the exhibition. In-depth studies on the cultural and aesthetical aspects of fashion exhibitions should be carried out, not only based on the sense of sight but also the senses of touch and hearing. Next, theories should be established on fashion scenography, to consider the use of the space design of fashion shows, presentations and advertising and movies to communicate fashion.

A Systematic Review Exploring the Current State of Fashion Criticism -A Focus on the Fashion Designer Exhibition Reviews of Fashion Theory-

( Kyung-hee Choi ) 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.44 No.2

Considering the complex relationship between fashion curating and the critical approach of fashion exhibition reviews, this study explores the current state of fashion criticism in museology, focusing on fashion designer exhibition reviews of Fashion Theory. The author selected eighteen exhibition reviews of individual fashion designers’ works from 1997 on to the current 2020 issues of Fashion Theory, which provides an interdisciplinary forum to analyze fashion as a cultural construction. The author performed a systematic review that qualitatively summarizes and/or synthesizes the findings of the studies on the topic with the process of a systematic review, such as key question formulation, analytic framework building, evidence mapping, critical appraisal, and evidence synthesis. The results of this study are as follows. First, the exhibition reviews included almost all stages of the inclusive fashion criticism model, based on an artifact study. Second, they reflected various critical discourses that offered current interpretations of historical and contemporary fashion. Third, they showed that fashion criticism in the museum context is the result of an interdisciplinary collaboration of various fashion agents. Finally, they offered a bridge for crossing the boundaries of various scholarly fields, as they combine multidisciplinary scholarship with object-based methods.

The Characteristics of Fashion Memes on Social Media

손현영,전재훈 한국패션디자인학회 2022 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.22 No.3

Recently, the spreading of various fashion content on social media such as Instagram and TikTok has developed into a phenomenon of rapid information sharing. The various fashion content being shared include users’ personal opinions, trending humor, and social controversies that spread through the addition of phrases and editing of images. This is called a ‘fashion meme’, and just as human genes transmit biological information through replications, the sharing of memes delivers information through imitation and rapid modification. Meme sharing is creating a new cultural phenomenon formed by the development of technology and by generations who value fun and easy connections. Fashion-related memes appear in diverse forms on social media, and the process of content imitation and transfer has rapidly accelerated due to the combination of the essential nature of a meme which is imitated and reproduced and that of the fast-changing social media. This study conducted a case analysis to understand the characteristics of fashion memes on Instagram and TikTok. First, fashion memes that induce communication about outfits and looks, and memes that raise social issues related to fashion could be seen as two types of memes with different subjects. Second, there were three common characteristics of fashion memes on Instagram and TikTok, which were spontaneity of social media users caused by subjective sharing of fashion memes, topicality due to people’s sharing of widely known fashion contents, and criticism in sharing personal opinions about fashion. Although the forms of fashion memes in both media were different, information on fashion was to be delivered, and users who shared it perceived fashion memes as a communication medium. This study aims to reveal the role of fashion memes as a cultural communication medium by analyzing the characteristics that are actively appearing in the field of fashion. This research is expected to contribute to the development of communication methods through the subject of fashion memes and social media users.

로맨틱 JEAN 패션디자인 연구

정은선,김정혜 한국니트디자인학회 2008 패션과 니트 Vol.6 No.1

Fashion is a cultural code most sensitively demonstrating movements in changing society; the jean fashion has grown not only in comfortable and functional everyday clothing but also in attractive high fashion; a decorative and feminine romantic style of the jean fashion has been remarkably developed in the 21st century. In designing the jean fashion by introducing aesthetic properties of the romantic fashion, this study developed and used various kinds of jean using flounce, ruffle, unraveling, taping, stitches, and cubic flower embroidery designs. Silhouettes and details were expressed in a modern and feminine image applying the line of corsets. On this basis, an attempt was made to present a method to expand expressions of the jean fashion and develop designs in pursuit of characterization and diversification. The purpose of this study is to develop materials to emphasize expressions of a new fashion and creators' individuality to expand the area of material expression and create styles for a new romantic jean fashion design. For this purpose, prior literature and researches were reviewed for the concept and features of the romantic fashion, properties of the romantic fashion, and the concept, history, kinds, and expressions of the jean fashion, along with collection of photo data from Internet websites and collection magazines to perform case analysis of the modern romantic fashion design and jean-using designs in the modern fashion. On this basis, eight suites of jean clothes were manufactured by introducing a romantic fashion. This study obtained the following conclusions. First, theoretical consideration of the romantic jean fashion demonstrated that it was development of materials and creation of creative designs which exerted great effects on designs and played a key role in the modern fashion. It is jean which is being used in various classes, regardless of age, gender, or rank, in the modern fashion using various materials; various detail expressions and feminine images of the romantic jean fashion have been developed markedly in this 21st century. The property of the modern romantic fashion is found to be sensuality caused by decorativeness and exposure, which functions in combination with various expressions of jean to make the romantic jean fashion remarkable today. Second, it was possible to develop handcraft-like, artistic jean for a material of a work and give feminine and aesthetic expression of the romantic jean fashion. Silk chiffon dyed in the same color with jean was mixed and matched to emphasize the soft and delicate style of the romantic fashion; it was possible to express an ample sense of quality by various expressions including cubic flower embroideries, stitches, taping, and unraveling. Third, four colors―light blue, indigo blue, grey, and black―were used to express the jean fashion with elegant romantic images. Accent was given by color arrangement with light colors of unraveled strands and stitches; it was possible to emphasize cuts and the lines of flower motives with accentual colors, such as white, yellow, and red. Fourth, it was possible to create a jean fashion in a specific style by introducing cuts of corsets and applying decorative details, such as flounce, frill, lace-up, and hook & eye, in order to emphasize feminine and decorative features of the romantic fashion in the style of works Fashion is a cultural code most sensitively demonstrating movements in changing society; the jean fashion has grown not only in comfortable and functional everyday clothing but also in attractive high fashion; a decorative and feminine romantic style of the jean fashion has been remarkably developed in the 21st century. In designing the jean fashion by introducing aesthetic properties of the romantic fashion, this study developed and used various kinds of jean using flounce, ruffle, unraveling, taping, stitches, and cubic flower embroidery designs. Silhouettes and details were expressed in a modern and feminine image applying the line of corsets. On this basis, an attempt was made to present a method to expand expressions of the jean fashion and develop designs in pursuit of characterization and diversification. The purpose of this study is to develop materials to emphasize expressions of a new fashion and creators' individuality to expand the area of material expression and create styles for a new romantic jean fashion design. For this purpose, prior literature and researches were reviewed for the concept and features of the romantic fashion, properties of the romantic fashion, and the concept, history, kinds, and expressions of the jean fashion, along with collection of photo data from Internet websites and collection magazines to perform case analysis of the modern romantic fashion design and jean-using designs in the modern fashion. On this basis, eight suites of jean clothes were manufactured by introducing a romantic fashion. This study obtained the following conclusions. First, theoretical consideration of the romantic jean fashion demonstrated that it was development of materials and creation of creative designs which exerted great effects on designs and played a key role in the modern fashion. It is jean which is being used in various classes, regardless of age, gender, or rank, in the modern fashion using various materials; various detail expressions and feminine images of the romantic jean fashion have been developed markedly in this 21st century. The property of the modern romantic fashion is found to be sensuality caused by decorativeness and exposure, which functions in combination with various expressions of jean to make the romantic jean fashion remarkable today. Second, it was possible to develop handcraft-like, artistic jean for a material of a work and give feminine and aesthetic expression of the romantic jean fashion. Silk chiffon dyed in the same color with jean was mixed and matched to emphasize the soft and delicate style of the romantic fashion; it was possible to express an ample sense of quality by various expressions including cubic flower embroideries, stitches, taping, and unraveling. Third, four colors―light blue, indigo blue, grey, and black―were used to express the jean fashion with elegant romantic images. Accent was given by color arrangement with light colors of unraveled strands and stitches; it was possible to emphasize cuts and the lines of flower motives with accentual colors, such as white, yellow, and red. Fourth, it was possible to create a jean fashion in a specific style by introducing cuts of corsets and applying decorative details, such as flounce, frill, lace-up, and hook & eye, in order to emphasize feminine and decorative features of the romantic fashion in the style of works

A Systematic Review Exploring the Current State of Fashion Criticism -A Focus on the Fashion Designer Exhibition Reviews of Fashion Theory-

최경희 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.28 No.3,4

Considering the complex relationship between fashion curating and the critical approach of fashion exhibition reviews, this study explores the current state of fashion criticism in museology, focusing on fashion designer exhibition reviews of Fashion Theory. The author selected eighteen exhibition reviews of individual fashion designers' works from 1997 on to the current 2020 issues of Fashion Theory, which provides an interdisciplinary forum to analyze fashion as a cultural construction. The author performed a systematic review that qualitatively summarizes and/or synthesizes the findings of the studies on the topic with the process of a systematic review, such as key question formulation, analytic framework building, evidence mapping, critical appraisal, and evidence synthesis. The results of this study are as follows. First, the exhibition reviews included almost all stages of the inclusive fashion criticism model, based on an artifact study. Second, they reflected various critical discourses that offered current interpretations of historical and contemporary fashion. Third, they showed that fashion criticism in the museum context is the result of an interdisciplinary collaboration of various fashion agents. Finally, they offered a bridge for crossing the boundaries of various scholarly fields, as they combine multidisciplinary scholarship with object-based methods.

한국(韓國) 신세대(新世代) 패션에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -일본대중문화(日本大衆文化)의 영향(影響)을 중심(中心)으로-

이희승 ( Hee Seung Lee ),조규화 ( Kyu Hwa Cho ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2002 패션 비즈니스 Vol.6 No.1

The purpose of this study is to observe the elements of Japanese popular culture portrayed in Korean new generation fashion at the current point of time, when Japanese popular culture is first being opened to Korea. And the another purpose is to look into the fashion consciousness of them, which is made up of these aspects. The new generation plays the leading role in further excelling the culture of our society. They are the generation of sense and sensibility, the generation of "me", the generation of information, and the generation of individuality. Even before Japanese popular culture was officially opened, the new generation was already accepting fashion, comics and animation, video games, music, broadcasting, food, etc. The Japanese cultural elements that show most in Korean fashion are street fashion and the fashion of celebrities. These are mostly brought in by fashion magazines, the internet, satellite TV, the new media of cable TV, and street shops. The aspects of Japanese popular culture in Korean new generation fashion are many and varied. Such examples in fashion are : vintage style, school-girl style, sexy causal style, black coordination, soft avant-garde style. It can be said that the fashion consciousness of Korean new generation could be placed in the following order. First, the variety of fashion. Next, the internationalism of fashion. Third, the information of fashion, and last, the play value of fashion. Interest has peaked in Japanese culture after the official opening, and this study has explored the very same aspects which can be seen in Korean new generation fashion. This study was meant to help make a responsible and sturdy new generation fashion culture which can help face the new millennium.

현대 패션의 이모티콘 활용 특성과 의미

김선영(Kim, Sun Young) 한국생활과학회 2020 한국생활과학회지 Vol.29 No.5

The purpose of this study was to examine the overall characteristics of contemporary fashion’s emoticon use and its expression and understand the embedded meanings. The study method follows the literature review about concept, type, feature of emoticon, and the case study applied to fashion from 2012 to the first half of 2020. Results showed the following. Emoticon use in the fashion is sectored into fashion design, fashion advertisement and magazine, and emoticon app release. As to the emoticon type, it is used for only graphic and sticker emoticon in case of the fashion ad and magazine, whereas all types including the moving emoticon appear in cases released as an app. Expression way takes 2D image only or a combo of 2D image and text, which occupies the largest portion. However, when applied as an app, many functions are added such as animated motion, 2D, combined motion and text, and 3D. This leads the emotion exposure to the maximized effect. In use of images, the brand reminding image like fashion brand’s character, logo, or symbol plays the largest role. Then, other images follow such as the smiling image, friend character of Kakao or Line, brand image harmonious with the illustrator’s personality, mix of the mobile messenger character and brand image, and such. These fashion emoticon uses reflect the meaning of the extension of fashion contents, expansion of fashion communication tools, and the graft of fashion emotion onto daily routines. This examination facilitates the understanding of the use and characteristics of emoticons and predict the possible extensions as differentiated fashion communication tools.

현대 패션에 나타난 이미지 생성형 인공지능의 융합 사례와 의미

김선영(Kim, Sun Young) 한국전시산업융합연구원 2024 한국과학예술융합학회 Vol.42 No.2

본 연구는 현대 패션의 전 영역에 걸쳐 이미지 생성인공지능과의 융합이 다양하게 시도되고 있다는 점에 주목하여 시작되었다. 본 연구의 목적은 패션과 이미지 생성 인공지능의 융합 동향과 의미를 파악하여, 향후 패션과 이미지 생성 인공지능의 융합 발전 가능성 및 긍정적인 상호공존 방안을 탐색하기 위함이다. 이를 위해 이미지 생성 인공지능의 개념과 서비스 현황, 패션영역의 생성형 인공지능 활용 동향에 관한 문헌 고찰, 그리고 패션 영역에 나타난 이미지 생성 인공지능에 관한 사례 연구로 진행하였다. 연구 결과 및 내용은 다음과 같다. 패션과 이미지 생성 인공지능의 융합은 패션디자인, 광고 캠페인, 패션 잡지, 가상 협업과 콘셉트 스토어 등 패션 커뮤니케이션 전반에 걸쳐 전개되었다. 이러한 융합 동향은 관련 직업군의 소멸, 대체라는 우려도 있으나, 이미지 생성 인공지능은 패션 영역에 새로운 창의적 영감 제공과 디자인 과정의 효율성, 지속가능성을 도모하는 협력자이며 조력자로 공존하였다. 이러한 패션과 이미지 생성 인공지능의 융합은 무한한 패션 창의성 구현, 창의적 패션의 대중화와 민주화 견인, 패션 창작의 속도와 효율성 도모, 새로운 패션 영역의 확장이자 직업군 견인, 수작업 같은 인간적 능력의 중요성 강조, 다양한 분야와의 기술 융합 확장을 도모한다는 점에서 의미를 지닌다. 본 연구를 통해 패션과 이미지 생성 인공지능의 융합이 활발해지고, 앞으로 인공지능 시대에 대응하는 책임 있는 패션 시스템이 구축되기를 기대한다. This study began by noting that various attempts were being made to converge with image generation artificial intelligence across all areas of contemporary fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand the convergence trends and meaning of fashion and image-generating artificial intelligence, and to explore future convergence development possibilities and positive coexistence of fashion and image-generating artificial intelligence. To this end, the concept and service status of image-generating artificial intelligence and the trend of using generative artificial intelligence in the fashion field were reviewed in the literature. And it was conducted as a case study on the use of image-generating artificial intelligence in the fashion field. The results and contents of the study are as follows. The convergence of fashion and image-generating artificial intelligence has been deployed throughout fashion communication, including fashion design, advertising campaigns, fashion magazines, virtual collaborations, and concept stores. Although there are concerns that this convergence trend may lead to the disappearance or replacement of related professions, image-generating artificial intelligence is acting as a collaborator and assistant in the fashion field, providing new creative inspiration and promoting efficiency and sustainability of the design process. This convergence of fashion and image creation artificial intelligence realizes infinite fashion creativity, drives the popularization and democratization of creative fashion, promotes the speed and efficiency of fashion creation, expands new fashion areas and promotes jobs, emphasizes the importance of human abilities such as manual work, and creates various It is meaningful in that it seeks to expand technological convergence with other fields. Through this study, it is expected that the convergence of fashion and image-generating artificial intelligence will become active, and a responsible fashion system to respond to the artificial intelligence era will be established in the future.

현대 패션 비평 특성에 관한 연구

박수진,하지수 한국의류학회 2023 한국의류학회지 Vol.47 No.3

Contemporary fashion criticism tends to rely solely on the established art criticism process without consideration of the distinctive characteristics of fashion. Thus, this study aims to reveal the unique roles and characteristics of fashion criticism by recognizing it as an independent field in contemporary art with its own social significance. This study will first apply traditional art criticism models to analyze and explore contemporary fashion criticism's empirical content before uncovering the uniqueness of contemporary fashion criticism by content analysis. Contemporary fashion criticism discusses not just physical objects but various topics and ideas, as well. Accordingly, the existing criticism model was modified in this study to fit contemporary fashion criticism and organized into five stages: description of historical fashion, form description, external evaluation, interpretation, and internal evaluation. Commerciality, the human body, coordination, the critic's individuality, trends, and fashion-related persons were identified as key factors of contemporary fashion criticism's uniqueness. In conclusion, rather than build a single contemporary fashion model, this study found it more effective to create individual fashion criticism models suitable for detailed fields, as these enable the discussion of multifaceted topics in the fashion field. This study is expected to serve a meaningful guide for the fashion discourses.

딥러닝을 통한 하이엔드 패션 브랜드 감성 학습

장세윤,김하연,이유리,설진석,김성재,이상구 한국의류학회 2022 한국의류학회지 Vol.46 No.1

The fashion industry is creating innovative business models using artificial intelligence. To efficiently utilize artificial intelligence (AI), fashion data must be classified. Until now, such data have been classified focusing only on the objective properties of fashion products. Their subjective attributes, such as fashion brand sensibilities, are holistic and heuristic intuitions created by a combination of design elements. This study aims to improve the performance of collaborative filtering in the fashion industry by extracting fashion brand sensibility using computer vision technology. The image data set of fashion brand sensibility consists of high-end fashion brand photos that share sensibilities and communicate well in fashion. About 26,000 fashion photos of 11 high-end fashion brand sensibility labels have been collected from the 16FW to 21SS runway and 50 years of US Vogue magazines beginning from 1971. We use EfficientNet-B1 to establish the main architecture and fine-tune the network with ImageNet-ILSVRC. After training fashion brand sensibilities through deep learning, the proposed model achieved an F-1 score of 74% on accuracy tests. Furthermore, as a result of comparing AI machine and human experts, the proposed model is expected to be expanded to mass fashion brands.