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        • KCI등재

          대중문화 이론을 통해 본 복식 문화의 연구방법에 대한 연구

          엄소희,김문숙 服飾文化學會 1997 服飾文化硏究 Vol.5 No.1

          The purpose of this study is to present the study method in order to analysis the fashion phenomena in popular culture by popular culture theory. The method of this study is showed the method of fashion culture, after it was examined that the trends of popular cultural method, the type of Koran popular culture discussion, and the relationship of fashion and popular culture. The results of this study are following as: 1. Analysis of this study are structuralism stand and culturalism stand, and the application of criticism about the cultural technology in a new stand by means of the composition of Gramscic. A and Foucalul. 2. Application of the ethnographic access method as anthropological approach method about C. Geertz's culture. This is to describe and interpret the practice of subject through directive observation and conduct on a spot, thus is likely to be useful in the fashion study. 3. It needs a historical access method for that purpose, If it applicate Weber's methodology, it will have the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the basis of realistic conditions(historical data), and would appear that the peculiar apportunity of mental(cultural) progressional process became definitive explanation. 4. It must be made up of the discussion (which is) based on the durability of tradition and culture. It is undeniable that the discussion, which related to popular culture up to the present, showed the disconnectedness of the past tradition and culture, and naturally accepts it's connection to epepistemology. The cultural study is a theory interested in what it brings about, what way it's organized and what way it's used. The research of the fashion's connection to popular culture is composed of such topic : how fashion is produces, how it is consumed, and then, the proposition whic his concerned in what meaning it produce is made up of. The regulation of the realm of this research will be to help a researcher explain where to begin and how to do it. Although this cultural study method is more or less quantitative, or despite the expense of the accuracy of statistical analysis, this means that such method of cultural research needs to give attention to both aspects of phenomena and basic problems.

        • KCI등재
        • KCI등재

          옷입기 양식을 통해 본 속옷문화의 변화

          朴富珍,金美英,韓明淑 服飾文化學會 1998 服飾文化硏究 Vol.6 No.3

          What human beings wear is closely related to how they conceptualize their bodies and how they classify the group they belong to and the way they wear their cloth is and important cultural element that shows wearers' awareness and social relationship. Especially, underclothes reflect unrevealed cultural inside f the society more abundantly than outer wear do. Through such characteristics of underclothes, we are able to better understand inherent order of culture. This study is to understand the characteristics and changes of Korean culture by reviewing the convention of underclothes wearing that takes important role in clothing without being explicitly revealed. For this study, in addition to biblical review of under clothes of traditional societies, a total of 301 college students aging from 19 to 28, who are the most open to accepting new cultures and changes, residing in Seoul area were participant. Questionnaire consists of open-ended questions of underclothes terms, kind, why they wear, items of wearing, how they obtained, how they take care of. etc. In conclusion, changes in cultural meaning of underclothes analyzed through convention of underclothes wearing are as follows: 1) changes in wearing pattern implies changes in functions of underclothes and changes in members' roles and values in a society; 2) changes in recognition of underclothes are related to the changes in awareness of sex; 3) consumer behaviour of underclothes represents a part of information culture; 4) changes in the pattern of maintaining underclothes show that differentiation of sex role in household tasks is decreased.

        • KCI등재

          현대복식에 나타난 에로티시즘(Eroticism)의 표현양식에 관한 연구

          李京和,韓明淑 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.1

          The Psychology of putting on clothes has close relation with sexuality, and eroticism is of important in clothing. Present article aims to understand eroticism correctly and to make it evaluated as an art in modern fashion and as an aesthetic to experss woman's beauty. Modern eroticism in fashion may be divided into direct, indirect and symbolic expression made. The result are as follows: First, direct made, a representation of desire to exhibit, expresses eroticism by exposition of body or physical curve with tight garment. Second, indirect made, a see-through technique using association, represents sexual appeal by imagination on body area hidden by clothes made of see-through material. And third, symbolic made expresses sexual libido by representing body area or clothes which symbolizing woman's sexuality using materials like fur or silk. Eroticism in modern clothing, therefore, should be understood as a beauty that is expressed by human artistic desire. Further studies are needed to explain the characteristics of eroticism in every culture because human nature is apt to form diverse kind of cultures.

        • KCI등재

          新疆의 古代 出土服飾에 관한 硏究

          金容文 服飾文化學會 1996 服飾文化硏究 Vol.4 No.2

          The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjiang, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The result are as follows: A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is felt, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair style was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C Compared with Korean clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, WI-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.

        • KCI등재후보
        • KCI등재

          巫俗服飾의 象徵的 意味에 관한 硏究(Ⅱ) : 在日 韓國人의 宗敎生活을 中心으로 With Special Reference to the Religious Life of Korean Residents in Japan

          李子淵 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.1

          This paper makes a report of Shamans' ritual performed among Korean residents in Japan as socio-historical facts, and this also examines the symbolic meanings of Shamans' costumes. The results are as follows; 1) At the ritual of Jungsip-Wang Maji, Shamans wear Gwandae, Kunbok, Jangsam, Durumaki, and Chima-jugori. These costumes show that their wearers are priests and gods at the same time. 2) The reason why Simbang performs the ritual in different costumes at different Jaechas is that each object-god needs different costumes to represent its different character. 3) Shamans' instruments consist of musical instruments and other instruments. Among the musical instruments are such percussions as Buk, Jing, Janggo and Sulsae. Among other instruments are Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung. 4) Shamans think that the musical instruments have magic powers to dirve out minor demons and invite gods. Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung are thought to be the symbolic instruments representing gods' will.

        • KCI등재

          현대 패션디자인에 표현된 신체이미지의 상징성

          권기영,조필교 복식문화학회 2000 服飾文化硏究 Vol.8 No.5

          This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modem fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1.The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2.Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The concern on colored and minority races of the third world who have been suppressed under absurd and discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3.The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activity be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present new human conception in the coming future society.

        • KCI등재

          한국의류학의 연구경향분석 : 1991~1999

          나수임,이정순,배주형 복식문화학회 2000 服飾文化硏究 Vol.8 No.6

          This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as fallows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied costumes cultures and those Journal of Korean Home Economics have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio -Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing rotated study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

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