해외 니트 패션의 조형성에 관한 연구

최해주 한국니트디자인학회 2009 패션과 니트 Vol.7 No.1

Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative feature characteristics of foreign knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2004 to 2008 had been analyzed. The designing characteristics, kniting techniques and formative feature characteristics of foreign knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. Various design items including traditional items of knit wear and accessories were presented. Slim, fitted, loose, balloon, bulky silhouettes were applied. 2. Techniques of expression by knitting techniques, details, trimmings, metalic materials and different textile materials were used. 3. The formative feature characteristics of foreign knit fashion were traditionalism, decorativeness and extraordinarity. Foreign knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified. Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative feature characteristics of foreign knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2004 to 2008 had been analyzed. The designing characteristics, kniting techniques and formative feature characteristics of foreign knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. Various design items including traditional items of knit wear and accessories were presented. Slim, fitted, loose, balloon, bulky silhouettes were applied. 2. Techniques of expression by knitting techniques, details, trimmings, metalic materials and different textile materials were used. 3. The formative feature characteristics of foreign knit fashion were traditionalism, decorativeness and extraordinarity. Foreign knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.

A Study on the Characteristics of Knitwear Fashion Design: With a focus on Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine Alaia

전혜정,박재민 한국복식학회 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer’s style through their product’s silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspiredcolor composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsiatechnique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

A Study on the Characteristics of Knitwear Fashion Design: With a focus on Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine Alaia

Chun, Hei Jung,Park, Jae Min The Korean Society of Costume 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

국내 니트 스트리트 패션에서 해외 컬렉션 수용 정도에 관한 연구 - 2011 S/S시즌 중심으로 -

이유미 한국니트디자인학회 2011 패션과 니트 Vol.9 No.1

This study set out to investigate and examine how much Korea's knitted street fashion products accepted the design elements of overseas collections and thus offer practical help to the design and buying of street fashion design. The research findings were as follows: first, the most frequent fashion image of the overseas collections was modern, which was followed by elegance and causal in the order. Meanwhile, the most frequent fashion image in Korea's internet shopping malls was casual, which was followed by feminine and natural in the order. Second, the most frequent items were one-piece and pullover & cardigan in the overseas collections and Korea's Internet shopping malls, respectively. Third, the overseas collections used the H-shaped silhouette of medium room a lot, whereas Korea's Internet shopping malls did the O-shaped silhouette of much room. Fourth, both the groups used the plain structure most. The second most popular structure was the skashi, a transformed rib structure, in the overseas collections and the cable pattern in Korea's Internet shopping malls. Both the groups used the fine gauge most and the solid and stripe pattern most in the order. Fifth, the overseas collections used such achromatic colors as white, black, and light gray and such chromatic colors as beige in high frequency with orange and yellow as point colors. Meanwhile, Korea's Internet shopping malls used such achromatic colors as white and light gray and such chromatic colors as beige and pink in high frequency with violet and yellow as point colors. The most popular tones were pale, deep, and vivid in the order in both the groups. The overseas collections and Korea's Internet shopping malls shared many design elements such as structure, gauge, pattern, and color, which indicates that the former had influences on Korea's knitted street fashion. However, the influential relationships between them seem weak in item, silhouette, and fashion image.

디자인 특성에 따른 니트 패션 트렌드의 주기 분석

고순영 ( Soon Young Ko ),박영선 ( Young Sun Park ),박명자 ( Myung Ja Park ) 복식문화학회 2010 服飾文化硏究 Vol.18 No.6

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women`s knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

A Study on the Characteristics of Knitwear Fashion Design

Hei Jung Chun,Jae Mim Park 한국복식학회 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knit-wear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rvkiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer`s style through their product`s silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the re-sults, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a mote luxurious, crea-tive fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of col-ors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form com-position, and rhythm Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary col-ors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femi- ninity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-ton-ed colors, such as beige and gray So, in other words. Missoni and Sonia, Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second. in the case of knitting techniques. Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show bal-ance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, ab-stract, and symmetric, Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the` Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this re-sulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes, Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit of-fers to get a tight silhouetten and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

현대 니트 패션에 나타난 에코디자인의 미적 특성

함연자 ( Ham Youn Ja ) 한국패션디자인학회 2014 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.14 No.2

The purpose of this study is to consider the aesthetic characteristics of ecodesign on contemporary knit fashion. As for the research methodology, to examine cases of knit fashion relevant to ecodesign characteristics, theoretical study was conducted on the concept of ecodesign and the ecosystem in architecture, product design and fashion. Then, case analysis of knit fashion presented in high fashion designer collections since 2000 was undertaken. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of ecodesign on contemporary knit fashion were classified into minimization, functionality, complexity, and traditionality. First, the characteristic of minimization was expressed in lightweight materials and structures, elimination of unessential details and decorations, simple forms, and seamless knit wear. Second, the characteristic of functionality formulated in sportswear inspired details and items, high-tech materials, reversible wear, modules and unconstructed structures. Third, the characteristic of complexity was translated in the complexity of materials, forms implied the process of fix and reform, and there were detachable parts, junky styling and restyling through mix and match of various items. Fourth, the characteristic of traditionality was represented in intrinsic natural styles, hand-knit techniques related to traditional product methods, reinterpretation of classic items and patterns, and ethnic styles from various cultures.

현대 니트패션에 나타난 공간 혼합의 디자인 특성

박문희(Moon Hee Park),김차현(Cha Hyun Kim) 한국디자인문화학회 2010 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.16 No.2

현대 사회는 수많은 네트워크에 따른 문화 공유에 따라 ‘혼합’의 흐름 속에 놓여 있으며, 니트 패션에서도 수요의 증가에 따라 새로운 디자인이 요구되고 있어 이에 따른 전략적 방안이 절실히 요구 되고 있다. 본 연구는 2000∼2008년의 세계 4대 여성컬렉션의 횡편 니트 3∼8게이지의 자료를 선정, 현대 니트 패션에 나타난 공간의 혼합의 연도, 시즌별 출현빈도와 실루엣, 조직, 게이지와 색상의 시즌별 출현빈도 및 사례별로 디자인 특성을 분석하여 창의적인 니트디자인이 나올 수 있는 방안을 모색하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 공간의 혼합의 출현빈도를 보면 2006년 이후 증가추세를 나타냈으며, F/W가 S/S에 비해 두 배 정도의 높은 빈도수를 나타냈다. 공간 혼합의 디자인 특성에서 실루엣은 여성스러움을 강조하는 특성으로 Hourglass실루엣이 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타냈으며. 게이지는 미들게이지와 하이게이지가 가장 높게 나타났다. 조직에서는 기본조직이 가장 높게 나타났으며, 북유럽의 전통적 아란 문양, 페어아일 등의 민속적 문양과 현대적인 디자인의 혼합과 관련되어 F/W에서 자카드 조직이 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타냈다. 색상의 빈도수를 살펴보면 S/S, F/W 두 시즌 모두 YR이 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타냈다. 현대 니트 패션에 나타난 공간의 혼합의 디자인 특성에서 중국 전통복식과 일본 전통 복식과의 혼합은 서양의 패턴 양식을 기본으로 트임, 컬러 모양, 여밈, 재단 등의 부분적 응용으로 전통복의 이미지를 혼합하는 특성을 나타냈다. 북유럽과 기타 지역의 혼합은 니트의 역사가 깊은 북유럽의 전통적 니트 문양의 단순화, 현대화로 혼합된 디자인 특성을 나타내고 있었다. 현대 니트패션에 나타난 공간의 혼합은 전통적인 상징성을 배재하고 모티프의 차용에 있어 오늘날의 특성에 어울리게 현대적인 해석을 통해 표현되고 있으며, 다문화 시대의 다채로운 문화의 특성, 이질적인 요소의 혼합으로 상상력이 더해져 그 표현 가능성의 범위가 점차 확대되어 가고 있음을 확인할 수 있었으며, 현대 니트패션의 새로운 디자인의 한 방향으로 활용될 수 있기를 기대한다. Modern society is placed amid a flow of `mixture` according to cultural sharing of resulting from numerous networks. Even in knit fashion, new design is being requested according to a rise in demand. Accordingly, a strategic plan is being desperately needed. This study selected materials of 3-8 gauges in flat knit for the world`s 4 Women Collections in 2000∼2008, The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the appearance frequency and analysis relevant to design element, silhouette, structure, gauge and color in the mixture of space shown in modern knit fashion Given seeing the appearance frequency in mixture of space, the bullish trend has been indicated since 2006. F/W showed the higher frequency by about twice compared to S/S. As for silhouette, design elements in the spatial mixture, the Hourglass silhouette showed the highest frequency as the characteristic of emphasizing feminine nature. In gauge, the middle gauge and high gauge were shown most highly. In structure, the basic structure was indicated most highly. Jacquard structure in F/W is analyzed to have shown the highest frequency due to being related to traditional Aran pattern in Northern Europe, folk pattern such as fair Isle, and mixture of modern design. Given examining frequency in color, YR showed the highest frequency in both seasons of S/S, F/W. In the design characteristics of spatial mixture shown in modern knit fashion, the mixture of Chinese traditional costume and Japanese traditional costume indicated the characteristic of mixing image of traditional clothes with partial application such as opening, color shape, fastening, and cutting based on a pattern form in the West. The mixture of Northern Europe and other region was showing the design characteristic, which was mixed with simplification and modernization of traditional knit pattern in Northern Europe, which has deep history in knit. The spatial mixture, which was shown in modern knit fashion, is being expressed through modern interpretation suitably for today`s characteristics in borrowing motif with excluding traditional symbolism. And, the scope in possibility of its expression could be confirmed to proceed with being expanded gradually by being added imagination owing to the characteristic in the diversified culture of multi-cultural era and to the mixture of heterogeneous elements. And is expected to be likely to be possibly utilized as data necessary for developing design in the field of knit fashion.

현대 니트 패션에 표현된 젠더 플루이드 특성 연구

이연지,엄소희 복식문화학회 2023 服飾文化硏究 Vol.31 No.1

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity—viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum—is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017–fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

니트웨어의 변천에 관한 연구 : 1920~1990 년대를 중심으로

박명희,전현옥 건국대학교 생활문화연구소 2002 생활문화ㆍ예술논집 Vol.25 No.-

The recent increase of knit wear sales has enabled the increase in consumers' preference as well as making knit wear fashionable, and helped manufacturers to overcome the IMF crisis. Encouraged by this market phenomenon, apparel manufacturers have realized the importance of knit wear and are either increasing the quantities of merchandise or making an investment in production facilities. c Through the study around the strong demand on knit wear, I wish to find the significance in current fashion through the characteristics of how knit wear has become a popular item to consumers, and analyze the meaning it has, as a value-added fashion-culture item in the market, in order to suggest the potential development of knit wear in the 21st century. In order to do so, the method taken for this research was to do general study of the concept, characteristics, variety, structures and texture of knitting, as well as inquiring the background, historical flow and examining the characteristics of knit design by period to find the functionality of knit wear.