Sustainable Fashion and Textiles through Participatory Design -A case study of modular textile design-

허은숙 한국니트디자인학회 2015 패션과 니트 Vol.13 No.3

패션 산업에 관련한 생산과 소비 과정에서 일어나는 환경과 사회적인 문제들이 점차 심화되면서 지속 가능한 패션 디자인의 중요성이 꾸준히 증가하고 있다. 2013년 덴마크 패션 협회에 따르면, 패션과 텍스타일은 세계에서 두 번째로 오염이 많은 산업으로 인식되고 있으며, 제품이 생산되고, 사용 그리고 폐기되는 제품의 라이프 사이클 전 과정에서 상당히 많은 환경 문제와 사회적 이슈들이 야기되고 있다. 기존에 획일화된 디자인 접근 방식으로 지속 가능한 디자인의 목표를 실행하고 그 문제를 다루기에는 근본적으로 많은 어려움이 따를 수 있다. 종래의 전형적인 디자인에서는 주로 겉으로 보여지는 부분들, 즉 미적인 요소를 강조하여 표현하는 방식이거나, 혹인 이윤을 목적으로 하는 상업적인 디자인이 중요시 되는 경향이 강했으며, 환경과 사회를 생각하는 지속 가능한 디자인은 디자인 프로세스에서 주로 고려되지 않는 경향이 강해왔다. 결국, 지속가능성에 대한 방안은 디자이너 개인적인 관심에 따라 검토의 대상이 될 수도 있으나, 디자인 영역에서 가장 중요한 결정적인 요인을 작용해오지는 않아 왔다. 현재 패션 산업은 소비자들 사이에서 패션의 가치 사슬은 이미 파괴되었으며, 패션은 쉽게 입고 버려지는 소비재로 전락하였으며, 소비자들은 자신들의 옷이 어떻게 그리고 어디서 만들어졌는지 에 대한 지식과 관심이 거의 없다. 기존의 접근 방식으로는 지속 가능한 디자인을 장려하기에는 많이 역 부족해 보이며, 새로운 디자인 프로세스가 시급한 실정이다. 본 연구는 텍스타일 디자인의 생산과 패션이 소비되는 과정에서, 일반 소비자가 디자인 과정에 참여를 통하여 지속 가능한 디자인의 가능성을 연구 하였다. 또한 지속 가능한 디자인과 참여디자인의 개념을 이해하고, 지속 가능한 패션과 텍스타일 디자인의 한계를 극복할 수 있는 대안적 방법을 고찰 하였다.연구방법으로 소규모 예비 연구 (Pilot study)를 시행 후, 2009년과 2010년에 걸쳐 대규모 워크숍과 초대 및 기획 전시회를 영국 텐트 런던 (2009), 트라팔가 힐튼 호텔 (2010), 밀라노 디자인 위크 (2009), 일본 도쿄 디자인 센터 (2009) 그리고 중국 광저우 예술 박물관(2009)에서 개최하였다. 다양한 전시회들을 통하여 관람객들의 반응을 파악하고 관찰 연구를 병행하였다. 또한, 5일 동안 참여디자인 워크숍을 런던 중심가에 위치한 팝업샵 (Pop-up shop)에서 개최하였다. 디자인 과정에 참여한 사용자들의 의견을 수렴하였으며, 모듈 디자인을 활용한 지속 가능한 디자인의 방법을 연구 하였다. 모듈 디자인을 활용한 참여 디자인은 기존의 수동적이고 만들어진 디자인에만 익숙한 사용자들에 대하여 텍스트일과 패션디자인에 대한 이해와 관심도를 높였다. 또한 참여자들은 패션과 텍스타일 디자인이 단순히 소비되고 버려지는 물건이 아니라, 자신이 만든 제품에 대하여 관심과 정서적 유대감을 보였으며, 참여 디자인의 모든 과정과 경험을 즐겼다. 참여자들은 다양한 컬러, 재료, 모양, 크기, 디자인을 자신이 선택하고, 자신이 디자인한 패션 제품에 대한 아이디어를 워크샵 과정에서 공유하였다. 패션과 텍스타일 디자인이 디자이너의 전유물이 아닌, 일반인도 쉽게 표현하고 즐길 수 있는 사용자의 툴로 활용되었다. 모든 경우의 연구에서 그러하듯이, 모듈 디자인을 활용한 참여 디자인에도 한계를 지니고 있다. 텍스타일 스넵을...

"St. John 스타일" 니트웨어의 소비자 구매 및 착용 현황에 관한 연구

이선명,고순영 한국니트디자인학회 2009 패션과 니트 Vol.7 No.1

This study is to examine consumer needs through investigating actual conditions of consumer behavior about knitwear and to collect diverse information about the niche market of “St. John style” that is distinguished from others and to provide information on the market of this area. In this study, survey via questionnaires on 300 women of their 30s~60s who live in Seoul and the Metropolitan area was conducted from May 2008 to September 2008 and, excluding the incomplete responses, a total of 214 questionnaires were used. For the statistical analyses of frequency, percentage, mean, standard deviation, cross~tabulation analysis, t-test and One Way ANOVA were conducted using SPSS/WIN statistical program 12.0. The results of examining consumers’ buying behavior showed that the purchasers of “St. John style” knitwear were found to be professionals/liberal professions with high educational background who are in the high income bracket earning a monthly income of more than 5 million won. The most preferred item was found to be upper and outer garment of knitwear mainly worn in “St. John style” of formal dress. The products were found to be purchased by consumers after they have looked around 4 or 5 shops with the purchasing time of about one hour. Since consumers tend to purchase in sale price rather than in normal price, knitwear products of “St. John style” were found to be purchased for 200~300 thousand won despite the fact that the products are high~priced articles. Domestic brands were found to be most purchased and department stores were most preferred place for the purchase, and the younger the purchasers were, the cheaper products were purchased on sale or at the discount stores. The number of the respondents who wear knitwear product once or twice a week was found to be the highest, which represented a relatively high rate of wearing knitwear products which were mainly worn as formal dress for the special occasions such as official events and social gatherings. The results of examining the degree of satisfaction with “St. John style” knitwear showed that the respondents were found to be satisfied in the items of color, needlework, keeping warm, weight, while they were found to be not satisfied in the items of fluff, change in shape after laundry, change in size, static electricity. This study is to examine consumer needs through investigating actual conditions of consumer behavior about knitwear and to collect diverse information about the niche market of “St. John style” that is distinguished from others and to provide information on the market of this area. In this study, survey via questionnaires on 300 women of their 30s~60s who live in Seoul and the Metropolitan area was conducted from May 2008 to September 2008 and, excluding the incomplete responses, a total of 214 questionnaires were used. For the statistical analyses of frequency, percentage, mean, standard deviation, cross~tabulation analysis, t-test and One Way ANOVA were conducted using SPSS/WIN statistical program 12.0. The results of examining consumers’ buying behavior showed that the purchasers of “St. John style” knitwear were found to be professionals/liberal professions with high educational background who are in the high income bracket earning a monthly income of more than 5 million won. The most preferred item was found to be upper and outer garment of knitwear mainly worn in “St. John style” of formal dress. The products were found to be purchased by consumers after they have looked around 4 or 5 shops with the purchasing time of about one hour. Since consumers tend to purchase in sale price rather than in normal price, knitwear products of “St. John style” were found to be purchased for 200~300 thousand won despite the fact that the products are high~priced articles. Domestic brands were found to be most purchased and department stores were most preferred place for the purchase, and the younger the purchasers were, the cheaper products were purchased on sale or at the discount stores. The number of the respondents who wear knitwear product once or twice a week was found to be the highest, which represented a relatively high rate of wearing knitwear products which were mainly worn as formal dress for the special occasions such as official events and social gatherings. The results of examining the degree of satisfaction with “St. John style” knitwear showed that the respondents were found to be satisfied in the items of color, needlework, keeping warm, weight, while they were found to be not satisfied in the items of fluff, change in shape after laundry, change in size, static electricity.

현대 니트 패션에 나타난 맥시멀리즘에 관한 연구

강희명 한국니트디자인학회 2015 패션과 니트 Vol.13 No.3

This study is to analyze the Knit design works from the four major collections in the world from 2010 to 2013 which expressed maximalism, one of the major trends of today. The result of this study is as following. I identified the major characteristics of maximalism as expansionism, decoration, fusion, and avant-garde. first, in expansionism, I found many works that expand, modify or emphasize the certain parts of works with various patterns, colors and extreme match of materials. second, the patterns of decoration showed various looks such as futurism, kitsch, glam, and hippy with splendid decoration. third, in fusion patterns, there were retro, romantic, and ethnic with various mix and match. fourth, avant-garde had many attempts such as de-constructivism, amusement, subculture, and disharmony

컴퓨터 그래픽스를 활용한 니트 웨어 디자인 전개에 관한 연구 - Adobe Illustrator CS3 프로그램을 이용하여 -

이건희 한국니트디자인학회 2009 패션과 니트 Vol.7 No.2

21st century is newly born again with digital information era thanks to the widespread influence of computer and development of IT industry. Computer system and programming were introduced into work environment in various sectors and lead to automation in industries. Though in general computers are often used in production level in industries, the development of various computer graphics allows us to carry out creative activities by applying in designing level. Thus this study will provide an educational material for fashion specialists by searching for ways of using computer graphics in a process of knit wear practice such as planning, designing and producing new seasonal products. Despite, this study has following limitations: First of all it does not take possible problems which may occur in real fashion business into account, as it explains the procedures of knit wear designing by assuming a virtual fashion brand. Secondly its study is based upon a sample production order as a production process by focusing on fashion designing. Therefore, we would like to suggest that further research should show real examples which computer graphics are applied to the development of new product design by setting up industry-university cooperative system. In addition it should also analyze possible problems of fashion designing process, look for solutions, and study on the linkage between new products in this season and the development of next season's new product. 21st century is newly born again with digital information era thanks to the widespread influence of computer and development of IT industry. Computer system and programming were introduced into work environment in various sectors and lead to automation in industries. Though in general computers are often used in production level in industries, the development of various computer graphics allows us to carry out creative activities by applying in designing level. Thus this study will provide an educational material for fashion specialists by searching for ways of using computer graphics in a process of knit wear practice such as planning, designing and producing new seasonal products. Despite, this study has following limitations: First of all it does not take possible problems which may occur in real fashion business into account, as it explains the procedures of knit wear designing by assuming a virtual fashion brand. Secondly its study is based upon a sample production order as a production process by focusing on fashion designing. Therefore, we would like to suggest that further research should show real examples which computer graphics are applied to the development of new product design by setting up industry-university cooperative system. In addition it should also analyze possible problems of fashion designing process, look for solutions, and study on the linkage between new products in this season and the development of next season's new product.

현대 스포츠웨어의 니트 활용에 관한 연구

권진 한국니트디자인학회 2021 패션과 니트 Vol.19 No.2

Demand for sportswear in daily life increases due to its merits such as activity and functionality. Athletic-leisure look, a combination of athletics and leisure, brings about expansion of use, lately. In the sportswear brand and outdoor brand, life style sportswear is released for common consumers for traveling and commuting conveniently to school and work. Knit fabric is more favored than woven fabric in fabric kind used for sportswear in consideration of activity and functionality. Knit consumption is under expansion along with sportswear market size more and more. In spite of this sportswear enlargement, study about knit use for sportswear seems very rare. This work is purposed to analyze the usage type and expression feature of knit based on the modern sportswear and develop the knitwear design. Results indicate as follows. Applied knit types of contemporary sportswear are drape knit, compact stretch knit, and permeable porous knit. Applied knit expression features of modern sportswear are convergence, sensuality, and dynamics. This examination would be useful in organizing and providing the necessary theory to understand the application of knit for modern sportswear.

니트웨어를 이용한 리폼 의상 디자인 연구

김미영 한국니트디자인학회 2010 패션과 니트 Vol.8 No.2

As modern society entails environmental destruction such as global warming and lack of resources, which threaten the survival of human beings, and the issue of enhancing the quality of life and the concept of environment-friendly have been highlighted, solutions to protect global environment have been sought. As the issue of health and environment has attracted a lot of interest from each field, themes of environment-friendly fashion are addressed in many fields. Recently, it is a trend to address recycling through reform, environment- friendly materials, natural dying, fair trade. The flow of fashion based on the trend has spreaded, and also in Korea interest in “environment-friendly fashion” has increased. With the cycle of fashion becoming faster, and due to increase of clothes that are no more weared after a short-time wearing, environmental problems by increased wastes are caused and economic loss is increasing. Accordingly, it is urgent to resolve such problems. This study examined the concept and effects of reform through literature reviews including previous studies, and reformed designs and created three one-piece dresses for girls aged 4 or 5, one vest, and one cape using adult knitted cardigans and full-over knit. Through these efforts, this study aims to develop and recreate structured design for reformed clothing, which will help prevent loss of energy resources due to environmental pollutions, and to present ways for new environment-friendly fashion designs that are practicable.

한국 전통 떡살문양을 이용한 니트웨어 디자인 개발에 관한 연구 - SDS-ONE APEX 프로그램을 중심으로 -

이윤미 한국니트디자인학회 2014 패션과 니트 Vol.12 No.2

The purpose of this study was to suggest knitwear design with a modern sensibility by Korean traditional Tteoksal patterns. For the study methodology, literature was reviewed over Korean traditional Tteoksal patterns. Adobe Photoshop CS5, Adobe Illustrator CS5 and SDS-One APEX were used as computer design program. The findings of this study were as follow. Firstly, this study demonstrated developing knitwear design by use of SDS-One APEX, computer CAD system. Secondly, it showed the possibility of developing modern knitwear design by utilizing Korean traditional Tteoksal patterns. Thirdly, this study suggested that it is practicable to develop the contemporary style of knitwear utilizing Korean traditional images.

텍스타일 디자인의 심미적 측면과 니트의 표면구성 기법

이애자 한국니트디자인학회 2018 패션과 니트 Vol.16 No.1

My intention in this paper is to try and verify some practical ways to enhance artistic appeal of modern knit textile design. Theoretical background of experimental works presented here is a comprehensive understanding of historical development of modern design theories, various views on arts, crafts, designs, as well as aesthetical qualities of forms, functions, and constructions. To achieve this goal with a keen eye to modern theories of design, I tried various experiments on possible combinations of materials and knitting techniques that would maximize visual effects of textile design, such as textural effects of surface transparency and three dimensional effect. Using manual knitting machines to compromise artistic intentions with knitting techniques and material combination, some experimental design works for this purpose were successfully undertaken. I hope these experimental works will somehow contribute to diversifying paths to more advanced knit designs that can appeal to modern sense of design.

자카드니트 기법의 텍스타일 디자인 제작에 관한 연구

이애자 한국니트디자인학회 2017 패션과 니트 Vol.15 No.1

The history of modern design philosophy is one of designers’ continuous efforts to find answers to a question, “how to improve the quality, beauty, simplicity?” In this paper I start from this design ideology and try to propose an experimental procedure for industrial textile design with higher quality utilizing contemporary jacquard knitting system. For this purpose, 1) prototypes of design motifs were acquired through natural dyed silkscreen printing process. 2) The prototype motifs were modified by computer graphic program to get intended pattern designs. 3) These pattern designs were redesigned through Stoll M1 jacquard knitting system. In this redesigning process, I confirmed that color combinations of each pattern are freely changeable according to designer’s intentions and purposes. On Stoll M1, colors of each design pattern were separated into 32 colours, then reduced to 4 to 6 colours through some consecutive steps. And in this specific process, I could try various colour combinations and could select the desired ones. Before knitting, I checked the final products in advance through simulation process in which selected colour combinations could be experimentally combined with various jacquard structures. All of these experimental processes were intended to explore the possibility of integrating existing various textile design techniques for more artistic expressions, and to expand the horizon of modern textile design applicable to industrial production.

니트 기법의 색채 표현에 관한 연구 - 카드펀칭 기법의 텍스타일 작품 제작을 중심으로 -

이애자 한국니트디자인학회 2015 패션과 니트 Vol.13 No.2

Hi-tech knitting machines of our age has enabled textile designers to apply more various colors and patterns to their works. In this paper, I summarize the process and products of my experiment to make knit textiles for fashion and interior designers, by combining hi-tech machines with traditional knitting techniques. Starting from survey on preceding studies and related literatures, I tried to test various effects of color combinations applicable to knit design, making sample designs from draft designs. In the whole process, I tested whether effective aesthetic expression could be possible by card punching hand knitting. The process of design are as follows. 1) photo images, drawings, fiber structures were transformed into basic motifs 2) color planning 2) making draft designs for card punching 4) making cards for hand knitting 5) yarn colors mixing 5) making knitting process. With the final product of this research as well as draft designs available from applying 2D and 3D graphic simulation, I could suggest a tentative design process to enhance aesthetic appeals of knit textile design.