여성복식에 표현된 가슴의 패션 정체성 : 19세기 한국 · 프랑스를 중심으로 Focusing on Korea and France in the 19th Century

오유진,최현숙 동덕여자대학교 디자인연구소 2004 디자인포럼21 Vol.7 No.-

본 연구는 패션 정체성 이론에 근거하여 패션의 정체성을 보다 확실히 이해하고, 나아가 이를 디자인 발상의 연구 기초 자료로 활용할 수 있음을 증명하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 패션 정체성을 설명하는 구체적인 사례 제시를 위해 19세기로 연구 시대 범위를 한정했다. 또한 보다 구체적인 연구를 위해 연구대상을 한국과 프랑스로 선정했다. 이러한 연구 범위 안에서 문헌 및 실증 자료들을 통해 패션과 문화의 상관성을 바탕으로 한국과 프랑스의 패션 정체성을 비교 연구한다. 특히, 여성의 가슴에 관한 두 나라의 인식의 차이가 어떻게 패션 디자인에 다르게 표현되었는지 파악하고 이를 바탕으로 보다 발전적인 디자인 발상을 통한 패션계의 발전을 도모하는데 연구의 의의를 두었다. 한국과 프랑스의 가슴의 패션 정체성을 비교해본 결과, 양국 모두 모성성, 관능성, 패션성이 공존했다. 단 이러한 가슴의 패션 정체성의 표현 방법에 있어서 차이를 보였다. 19C 한국과 프랑스 여성복식에 표현된 가슴의 패션 정체성은 '은폐/노출'이라는 양면성을 갖고 복식안에서 보다 구체적으로 표현된다. 전체적으로 살펴볼 때, 양국 모두 가슴의 각 정체성 성격 마다 위에서 언급한 세 가지 정체성 성향이 모두 나타났다. 그리고 '은폐/노출'이라는 양면적 성향에 있어서는 관능성에 있어서 대조적인 차이를 보이고 모성성에 있어서는 동일한 성향을 띠고 있다. 또한 패션성에 있어서는 프랑스는 은폐와 노출이 모두 나타난데 반해 한국은 은폐적 성향을 띠고 있다. 이것은 양국간의 가슴에 대한 인식의 차이에서 비롯된 것이라 할 수 있는데 이러한 인식의 차이는 곧 문화적 차이를 의미하는 것이다. 연구의 결과 패션과 문화사이의 밀접한 상호 관련성을 재확인할 수 있었으며, 특히 여성 패션에서 가슴의 패션 정체성과 복식문화의 상관성을 찾아 볼 수 있었다. 각기 다른 문화권이나 시대는 각각 고유한 패션 정체성을 갖는데, 이러한 상호 독립적이면서 상이한 패션의 상대성에 대한 존중은 넓은 시각에서 패션을 이해할 수 있게 하며 새로운 패션을 창출하는 원동력이 된다. The women's dress style in the 19th century in Korea and France is influenced by diffrent socio-cultural trend. The two fashion trends in Korea and France build diffrent fashion identity based on their cultural influences. It causes diffrent perceptions and expressions of the dress styles to women's breasts in the oriental and western society until now. The purpose of this study was to understand the fashion identity more clearly based on the theorem of the fashion identity, also to prove the availability of using it as the groundwork for studying the design concept. This thesis focused on the 19th century to suggest a concrete example to explain the fashion identity. In addition, Korea and France are selected for the same reason. Korea and France fashion identity is compared each other in this study through various literature and actual proof based on the corelationship between the fashion and the culture. Especially, the diffrence of cognition of the breasts between the two countries is studied in order to investigate how it is expressed in the fashion design and to search the way of development of fashion world is seek for through more developing design concept on the basis of it. As the result of the fashion identity study about the breasts in Korea and France, the nature of motherhood, sexuality, and fashion was shown for two countries. Yet, the way the breasts fashion identity was expressed was different in two countries. This differentiation comes from the recognition of the breasts in the two countries, which means different culture of them. In other words, fashion and culture have a close relationship, and the corelationship between the breasts fashion identity and dress culture could be expected. In addition, different culture and time period different characteristics of fashion identity. Those are independent and relative to each other at the same time. This is helpful in understanding fashion the role and meaning of it through the comparison analysis of the breasts fashion identity expressed in women's dress style in the 19th century in Korea and France. Also, it suggested the foregoing way of the future fashion identity of the present dress design through the comparison of old dress style. The fashion identity plays an important role in taking the new fashion and approving a culture relativity in accordance to the global trend of the present fashion. The fashion identity forms the initial factor of the conception of fashion design. Pursuing one's own fashion with identity would make that fashion even more active and confident.

그리스 신화를 모티브로 한 한국창작무용 의상디자인개발

한경혜,최현숙 동덕여자대학교 디자인연구소 2004 디자인포럼21 Vol.7 No.-

오늘날 신화에 대한 관심이 이전 어느 때보다도 직접적이고 적극적으로 표명되고 있다. 신화가 지역과 시간을 넘어서는 인류 공통의 꿈과 표현방식이라는 발견은 현대 인터넷시대에 정치, 경제, 문화, 학술 등의 다양한 분야에서 신화를 만국공통의 기호로 채택케 하기 때문이다. 고대 상상력의 산물인 신화들은 신선한 독창적 작품에 끊임없이 이용되어왔다. 서구의 문학과 예술은 예로부터 그리스로마신화에서 수많은 예증과 상징, 영감을 빌어왔고, 현대사상이 즐겨 응용하는 신화는 종교, 민속학, 인류학, 사회학, 정신분석학과 미술 등이 공유하는 중요한 영역이며, 신화에 대한 지식은 문명을 형성해온 사상에 자연스러운 호기심을 만족시켜준다. 즉 여러 학문의 토대를 이루는 신화가 이들 학문의 사상을 한층 더 깊게 해주는데 이는 신화가 현대의 과학주의가 억압하고 있는 상상력을 해방시켜주기 때문이다. 고대 그리스 교육에서는 음악과 마찬가지로 중대한 역할을 담당했던 무용이 신화를 구체적으로 형상화하는 또 다른 예술양식이었다. 문화개방의 시대를 맞이하여 문화에 대한 사람들의 기대도 점점 높아지고 있다. 또한 전문화 시대에 접어들면서 무대공연 예술분야는 종합예술로서 무대 구성을 이루는 요소들의 영역이 더욱 세분화되고 있다. 무대예술에 있어서 예술무용의 형태가 더 정밀화(精密化), 인공화(人工化)됨에 따라 무용, 음악, 시각예술은 각각 독립적 기능을 유지하면서 세련되고 치밀하며 자연스런 조화를 이루어야 한다. 종합예술인 무용공연에서 의상은 무용수와 가장 밀착되어 있고, 주제 표현의 수단과 무언의 언어로서 중요한 역할을 한다. 특히 전통성과 현대성이 결합된 독특한 장르를 칭하는 한국창작무용은 춤뿐만 아니라 의상에서도 전형적인 한국무용의 틀을 깨고 있다. 본 연구는 한국창작무용공연 작품 「 ♂ + ♀ = 」을 위한 무용의상디자인개발 연구로서, 그리스신화의 인물들의 의상을 현대적 의미로 재해석하여 작품의 내용에 맞게 의상을 디자인하고 제작하며, 이를 통해 전통적 한국무용의상에서 벗어나 새로운 표현방법을 모색하고 무용의상의 발전적 방향과 가능성을 제시하는 데 그 목적을 두었다. 연구의 이론적 전개과정으로 무용의상의 고찰을 통해서 무용의상의 개념 및 무용의상의 조형미와 역할에 대하여 살펴보았으며 디자인 요소가 무용의상에 미치는 효과 및 요소상호간의 관계를 알아보았다. 또한 한국창작무용의 역사와 특성을 살펴보고, 그 표현적 특성을 고찰하였다. 이러한 이론적 고찰을 근거로 그리스 신화를 현대적으로 해석하여 무용의상의 예술적인 표현영역을 확대하기 위해, 현대인의 감성에 맞는 기능적이고 독창적인 무용의상을 총5점 디자인하고 제작했다. 이론 및 실제공연에서 작품을 착용한 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 무용수의 동작의 특성과 무용수의 신체를 고려하여 디자인된 의상에 의해 무용 율동에 의한 움직임의 확대와 변화는 더욱 증대될 수 있다. 즉 무용의상의 디자인 전개방법에 따른 무용의상의 실루엣의 변화로 또 다른 무용의 조형미를 보여줄 수 있었다. 둘째, 전형적인 무용의상의 소재에서 벗어나 다양한 현대적 소재의 개발과 사용으로 풍부한 작품의 이미지를 표현할 수 있었다. 셋째, 무용의상의 색채에 있어서 인물의 성격과 잘 부합되는 색상으로 무대와 관객의 정서적 합일을 촉진시키는데 일조 할 수 있었다. 따라서 무용의상의 색채는 다양한 이미지를 전달 할 수 있는 중요한 요소임을 확인할 수 있었다. 넷째, 무대의상에 있어서 조명의 효과로 인한 색상과 질감의 변화를 확인하였으며 적절한 소재의 사용은 조명의 효과를 극대화 할 수 있음을 알 수 있었다. 다섯째, 무용의상 디자인에 있어 현대패션에 표현된 여러 가지 요소들의 사용은, 현대예술의 실험적 요구에 부응하여 표현영역을 확대하는데 크게 기여함을 알 수 있었다. Nowadays, the interest shown in mythology is more direct and aggressive than ever before. The reason for such interest is the discovery of mythology's power to express the dreams of all mankind beyond time and space. This discovery has led people working in politics, economy, culture in general, and academia to choose mythology as an international system of symbols for the Internet era. Although mythology can be said to be the brainchild of ancient imagination, it still continues to be used in fresh, creative works of art. The arts of the western world have borrowed many examples, symbols, and inspiration from Greco-Roman mythology. Also, the mythology that many modern schools of thought apply often is something religion, folklore, anthropology, sociology, psychoanalysis, and art all share in common. Consequently, the knowledge of mythology satisfies the natural curiosity which is the ideology that gave form to civilization. That is to say, mythology is the very backbone of various studies which enriches the ideologies given by them. This is because mythology liberates the imagination oppressed by modern scientific thought. The educational system of the ancient Greeks put emphasis on music and dance, both important ways of giving flesh and blood to myth through art. As the opening of cultural barriers lays at hand, the anticipation of the public grows. Each and every field now acknowledges the need of professionalism, especially the stage and the theatrical arts, due to their characteristics as composite art. Dance as an art form is growing more detailed and artificial as time goes by, and attains an extremely sophisticated harmony and/or discord with music and the visual arts. That is why dance must keep in close company with lighting, costume, sound, makeup, and other such activities that are related to it. The costume is important in the way it is closest to the dancer on the stage, and that it expresses itself in a way that written or spoken word cannot. Dance has changed according to era, region, and its respective culture, and costume has changed alongside with it. Today, creative Korean dance has broken through the mold of typical Korean traditional dance in both dance itself and the costumes it employs, as an amalgam of traditionalism and modernism. The purpose of this study is to find new ways of expression which overcome traditional korean dance costume, and to present the direction of development and possibilities that dance costume possesses. This is done by giving the costumes the mythological figures of the Korean creative dance performance 『 ♂ + ♀ = 』 a new analysis in the modern sense, and by designing and producing such costumes accordingly. The methods of research which are applied are as follows; by collective analysis of related books and theses, and searching for visual material to help the characteristics of dance costume in various books and on the Internet. To thoroughly analyze this study and to expand upon the various theories it embodies through deliberate consideration of dance costume, the concept of dance costume itself is studied alongside the aesthetics and role of dance costume. Also, the history and quality of Korean creative dance is observed, while the expressional characteristics of Korean creative dance are inquired into accordingly. With such theoretical observation as a foundation, Greek mythology can be analyzed in the modern sense to expand the expressive territory of dance costume, thus developing functional creative dance costume that appeals to modern man's aesthetics. Based upon the research processes written above, the 5 works produced within this study are attempts to give new analysis to traditional Korean dance costume, with the image of the works being suitable to each and every piece of dance choreography. The results of this study are as following; First, dance costume considers the movement and body of the dancer, thus maximizing the change and enlargement of the rhythmic movements. In this way, the beauty of shape can be shown through the changes of the dance costume's silhouette. Second, abundant images were able to be expressed by the development and use of diverse materials produced by advanced technology, thus overcoming the typical materials dance costume has used so far. Third, by correspondence between the color of the dance costume and the personality of the character who is wearing it, emotional unity between stage and audience can be created. It can be said that the color of dance costume is an important component in communicating diverse images. Fourth, the effect of stage lighting upon change in color and texture of dance costume was noteworthy, and the deployment of glossy materials maximized the effect of stage lighting. Fifth, the application of the various components of modern fashion is regard to dance costume is important, in that satisfies the experimental demands of modern art.

The Changing Clothing-Image of Women Politicians in Korea in Relation to the Improvement of Women`s Status

Hyon Sook Choy 한국복식학회 2008 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.8 No.2

The Changing Clothing-Image of Women Politicians in Korea in Relation to the Improvement of Women's Status

Choy, Hyon-Sook The Korea Society of Costume 2008 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.8 No.2

A person's external image is a non-verbal form of communication, through which the person's tastes, mode of thought, preferences, and overall personality is expressed. The dominant factor in building an external image is clothing, since clothing-images provide the most information about a person in the least amount of time. This study aims to investigate the relationship between the clothing- images of women politicians and the improvement of women's social status in Korea, by focusing on changes in clothing-image of female politicians at public functions throughout modern Korean history, and inquiring into the method of classification concerning aforementioned images. The time period of this study starts from 1945, when the first female political party was established, to the 2008 presidential elections. The methodology of this study consists of literature study of related books, theses and journals, which was jointly conducted with empirical study consisting of the research of news photographs of major daily newspapers. This study confirmed the clothing images of women politicians since liberation till 2000's reflects the directions of women's movement and their status in return. It is especially meaningful that the sudden increase of romantic and feminine images among the women politician in Korea is the reflection of the ideas of postmodern feminism which emphasize the acknowledgement of womanhood and the enjoyment of being a woman as its core.

패션과 여성의 신체에 관한 폐미니즘 시각에서의 재조명 (1) - 코르셋의 예를 중심으로 -

최현숙 ( Hyon Sook Choy ) 대한가정학회 1996 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.34 No.1

김정은 체제에서의 북한 의생활 변화 연구

최현숙(Choy, Hyon sook) 한국복식학회 2016 服飾 Vol.66 No.6

Salmonella 병원성의 분자생물학적 기전

최현일,송미령 全南大醫大 2004 전남의대학술지 Vol.40 No.1

A Study on the Design Development of Lady′s Down Wear

Lee, Soon-Ja,Choy, Hyon-Sook The Korean Society of Costume 2004 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.4 No.-

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference: vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

A Study on the Design Development of Lady`s Down Wear

Soon Ja Lee,Hyon Sook Choy 한국복식학회 2004 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.4 No.-

Caveolae-mediated entry of <i>Salmonella typhimurium</i> into senescent nonphagocytotic host cells

Lim, Jae Sung,Choy, Hyon E,Park, Sang Chul,Han, Jung Min,Jang, Ik-Soon,Cho, Kyung A Blackwell Publishing Ltd 2010 AGING CELL Vol.9 No.2

<P>Elderly individuals have an increased susceptibility to microbial infections because of age-related anatomical, physiological, and environmental factors. However, the mechanism of aging-dependent susceptibility to infection is not fully understood. Here, we found that caveolae-dependent endocytosis is elevated in senescent cells. Thus, we focused on the implications of caveolae-dependent endocytosis using <I>Salmonella typhimurium</I>, which causes a variety of diseases in humans and animals by invading the eukaryotic host cell. <I>Salmonella</I> invasion increased in nonphagocytotic senescent host cells in which caveolin-1 was also increased. When caveolae structures were disrupted by methyl-β-cyclodextrin or siRNA of caveolin-1 in the senescent cells, <I>Salmonellae</I> invasion was reduced markedly compared to that in nonsenescent cells. In contrast, the over-expression of caveolin-1 led to increased <I>Salmonellae</I> invasion in nonsenescent cells. Moreover, in aged mice, caveolin-1 was found to be highly expressed in Peyer’s patch and spleen, which are targets for infection by <I>Salmonella</I>e. These results suggest that high levels of caveolae and caveolin-1 in senescent host cells might be related to the increased susceptibility of elderly individuals to microbial infections.</P>