천연 쪽 염색을 활용한 침구류 디자인 개발

이미숙(Mi Suk Lee),정경희(Kyung Hee Chung) 한국디자인문화학회 2012 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.18 No.3

본 연구의 목적은 천연염색을 이용해 다양한 염색기법을 통한 텍스타일 디자인이 적용된 천연염색 침구류 디자인을 제시하는데 있다. 연구 방법과 내용은 먼저 관련문헌과 선행연구를 중심으로 홈 텍스타일과 침구류, 침구류 시장 현황에 대해 고찰한 다음, 쪽염색을 활용한 침구류를 개발하였다. 디자인 개발은 개발 컨셉과 방향을 설정한 다음, 쪽과 관련 이미지들을 추출하고 이를 침염, 납염, 날염, 교염, 판염 등 다양한 염색 기법을 활용하여 텍스타일을 디자인한 후, 개발된 텍스타일 디자인을 침구류 아이템에 적용하여 제시하였다. 염색 기법이 표현된 패턴 샘플과 실물 제작을 위해서는 면 또는 실크 소재와 인도산 쪽 염료, 콜드 왁스를 사용하였다. 그리고 문양의 정형화, 패턴화 등의 텍스타일 디자인, 3D 시뮬레이션 작업은 Adobe Illustrator CS 4와 Adobe Photo CS 7.0 프로그램을 이용하였다. 연구결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 쪽은 크게 요람, 인도람, 대청, 산람 등이 있으며 우리나라에서는 요람을 주로 사용한다. 한국, 중국, 일본에서 쪽을 염색하는 방법에는 크게 생잎을 사용하는 방법, 쪽풀을 발효시키는 방법, 쪽풀을 삶아 숙람으로 만드는 방법 등으로 나눠볼 수 있는데, 발효법이 가장 일반적이며 그 기본적인 원리는 같으나 염색 과정상 나라마다 약간의 차이가 있다. 둘째, 침구류 텍스타일 디자인은 어패럴 텍스타일디자인에 비해 모티브가 크고 전체적으로 균일하게 전개되는 패턴 디자인이 많다. 최근 집이 패션과 라이프 스타일이 조합된 패션공간으로서의 역할이 강조되면서 침구류 또한 모티프, 디자인 패턴, 소재 표현기법 등, 세련된 디자인과 상품성을 높여 소비자의 구매력에 상응하는 텍스타일 디자인 개발이 중요해지고 있다. 셋째, 침구 시장은 계속해서 확대·증가 추세를 보이고 있고 시장 경쟁이 치열해 지면서 침구에 천연소재 및 친환경적인 소재와 가공방법을 활용하려는 노력이 시도되고 있다. 이러한 친환경 소재의 활용은 천연염색 브랜드에서도 활발히 진행되고 있으나 대부분의 천연염색 침구류들이 황토 또는 숯 위주의 염색, 침염 위주의 염색 기법에 한정되어 있다. 넷째, 쪽 염색과 다양한 염색 기법이 활용된 천연염색 침구류 디자인을 4세트 제시하였다. Design 1은 쪽잎, 쪽의 발효 과정, 쪽 염료의 기포 등의 모티프들이 납염, 판염 등으로 표현된 기하학적인 문양이 적용된 디자인이다. Design 2는 쪽풀 모티프가 모던하게 표현된 텍스타일과 교염에 의한 수공예적인 이미지의 텍스타일이 믹스 앤 매치 된 디자인이다. Design 3은 다양한 톤의 쪽으로 침염한 소재와 납염기법을 활용하여 쪽잎과 쪽꽃을 표현한 소재를 조각보 기법으로 구성한 디자인이다. Design 4는 단순화된 쪽풀과 쪽꽃 모티프가 강렬하면서도 세련된 이미지를 주는 디자인이다. 이상의 연구결과, 천연염색과 다양한 염색 기법을 활용한 텍스타일 디자인을 개발과 고부가가치 천연염색 텍스타일 제품 디자인 개발에 대한 가능성을 확인할 수 있었다. This study aims to develop natural dyeing bedclothes by which textile designs were applied through natural dyeing and dyeing techniques. Concerning the study methods and contents; first, home textiles, bedclothes and industry trends were reviewed with consideration of related literature and previous research, and then bedclothes were developed through the application of natural indigo dyeing. As for design development, the concept and direction were set and then images relating to natural indigo were extracted. Next, textiles were designed using various dyeing techniques such as dip dyeing, paraffin dyeing, silk screen, tie dyeing and block dyeing were applied to developed textile designs on bedclothes items. Cotton or silk materials and indian natural indigo dye was used to produce the pattern samples with dyeing techniques and genuine samples. Adobe Photoshop CS 7.0, and Adobe Illustrator CS 4.0 programs were used for the standardization of motives, patterns, textile designs and 3D simulation. The results of this study are as follows. First, there are many kinds of indigo dye, for example Polygonum Tinctorium, Indigofera Tinctoria, Isatis Tinctoria, Mercurials Leiocarpa, etc. Among these, Polygonum Tinctorium is used mainly in Korea. The process of dyeing indigo in Korea, China, Japan varies. It can be classified into many ways. For instance how to use raw leaves, how to ferment the indigo plant, how to make dyestuff from the indigo plant by boiling. Zymotechnics is the most common among these ways and there is little difference in the processes of dyeing from country to country, although the basic principles are the same. Second, bedclothes textile design has a tendency to have large motifs and uniform patterns compared to apparel textile design. With emphasis being placed on the role of homes as a fashion space which combines fashion and lifestyle, the development of sophisticated textile design such as motif, the design patterns and material expression technique in bedclothes to correspond with consumer`s purchasing power is becoming more important. Third, as the bedclothes market continuously expands and competitions grow fiercer, more effort is being made into the application of natural, environment- friendly material and manufacturing methods of bedclothes. The application of such environment-friendly material is being actively made by natural dye brands, but most natural dyed bedclothes are limited to red clay or charcoal and dip dyeing. Fourth, the designs of four sets of bedclothes were suggested, applying various dyeing techniques using natural indigo dyeing. Design 1 applied geometric patterns from motifs such as indigo leaves, the fermentation process of indigo, and bubbles in indigo dye created by paraffin dyeing and block dyeing. Design 2 mixed and matched textiles which modernly expressed indigo grass motifs and textiles that had a handcrafted feeling by tie dyeing. Design 3 used the Jogakbo technique to make a composition containing fabrics dip dyed in the various tones of indigo and fabrics of indigo leaves and flowers made by paraffin dyeing. Design 4 had simplified indigo leaves and indigo flower motifs, which produced a strong but sophisticated image. Based on these results, it was possible to confirm the possibility of the development of textile designs using natural dyeing and other various dyeing techniques, as well as the development of high added-value natural dye textile product design.

Transactions : A Comparative Study of Indigo Dyes and Dyeing in 19th Century Korea and England

( Soon Young Kim ) 한국의류학회 2010 한국의류학회지 Vol.34 No.12

This paper is a comparative analysis of the 19th century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer`s knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment (jeon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

감지의 재현을 위한 한지의 전통 쪽염색 특성

노정관,조현진,이형원,이오규 경상국립대학교 농업생명과학연구원 2022 농업생명과학연구 Vol.56 No.6

The study investigated the dyeing properties of Hanji dyed with Indian indigo powder and Niram, a traditional mud-like indigo precipitate with shell-lime, to reproduce Achoengji (or Gamji), the Korean traditional indigo-dyed paper. The dyeing yield and color difference increased with increasing of the dyeing time in the first dyeing process, which was performed by a stepwise manner of increasing dyeing time of yellow Hanji by 5 minutes from 5 to 85 minutes using Indian indigo powder. They increased rapidly up to 15 minutes, and then steadily increased until 85 minutes. The second dyeing process was repeated with the dried indigo-dyed Hanji as the same dyeing manner in the first dyeing process. The dyeing yield and color difference were similar or a bit higher to those of the first process from five to forty minutes of dyeing time. After 40 minutes of the dyeing, those even were decreased unexpectedly. From these results, it was believed that the appropriate dyeing time was between 15 and 30 minutes. A dyeing solution produced by the fermentation of Niram in a traditional method was also used to compare the color changes by the repetition number of dyeing (15 minutes dyeing – 15 minutes development). The dyeing yield and color difference increased with an increase in the dyeing number, and the hue was also changed G→BG→B→PB, respectively. The hue was 1.9G dyed indigo paper in the single time, and the PB color of dyed indigo paper was started to appear after the 8-times dyeing. The color factor similar to those of the antique indigo paper used in this study was appeared in 30-times dyed indigo paper, showing a color difference of 9.82, color yield of 8.56, and hue of 6.0PB. Nevertheless, the dyeing number could be reduced by the fact that the color factor of indigo-dyed paper depended on the indigo contents in the fermented indigo solution. 전통염색지인 아청지(감지 : 쪽물 염색지)의 재현을 위해 고문헌 감지의 색상을 조사한 후 인도 쪽 분말과 전통니람법에 의해 제조한 염색한지의염색특성을 검토한 결과는 다음과 같다. 인도산 쪽 분말로 제조한 염액으로 1회 염색한 경우 염색시간이 증가함에 따라 염착량과 색차 모두 증가하였으며, 특히 염색시간 15분까지는 급격히 증가하였으나 이후 85분까지는 매우 완만하였다. 그러나 2회차에는 염색시간이 5분에서 40분까지는 색차나염착량 모두 1회때 보다 약간 높거나 거의 같았으나, 40분 이후에는 오히려 감소하였다. 따라서 염색시간은 15분~30분 정도가 적정할 것으로생각된다. 전통니람을 전통발효에 의해 얻은 쪽물로 반복염색(1회: 15분 염색, 15분 발색)하면서 염색횟수에 따른 색상을 비교한 결과, 1회의염색에서의 색상은 1.9G로 그레이톤이었으나, 염색횟수가 증가함에 따라 색상도 G→BG→B→PB로 변화하며 색차와 염착량 모두 증가하여 고문서감지의 색상인 PB는 8회의 염색한지에서 나타났다. 고문서 감지의 색차, 염착량 및 색상과 비슷한 염색횟수는 30번째로 색차 9.82, 염착량 8.56, 색상 6.0PB였다. 그러나 염색횟수는 염액의 인디고 함량에 크게 좌우되며, 인디고 함량이 높으면 염색횟수는 단축 가능할 것으로 생각된다.

실용화를 위한 쪽 염료에 관한 연구

이상필 ( Sang Phil Lee ),김순희 ( Soon Hee Kim ) 복식문화학회 2011 服飾文化硏究 Vol.19 No.3

The process of making or cultivating indigo dyes is very cumbersome and complex. The dye extraction and dyeing methods using general plant dye, moth repellent dye, fast acting natural dye, and other dyes are very different. This research investigates the extraction of indigo dye and liquid dye extraction of polygonum(indigo) plants using calcium oxide water. While extracting indigo dye the concentration of purified indigo dye may be controlled by adjusting the pH level. Due to the various uses of dyes the adjustment of surface color must be considered. In regard to the change according to different concentrations of reducing agents, it was found that cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics show the highest color difference at 0.4% and 0.3% respectively. As the reduction temperature increases, the color difference increases as well. The maximum color difference was found to appear at 90t. Cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics showed 70.55 and 67.01 respectively. The color difference increases as the concentration of dyes increases, but at a concentration of 300%, cotton fabrics was found to show 6.22PB in H value using the Munsell color system, containing purple and blue color. The pH of the polygonum dyes extracted through this experiment were adjusted by adding calcium oxide to the experimental water without directly adding calcium oxide to the liquid polygonum extract. In a refine state, it was mixed with polygonum extract to extract a more refine and highly concentrated indigo dye. When lye and reducing agents are added to extracted indigo dye and sealed for long-term storage, it can be effective and easily used for dyeing.

한국과 일본의 쪽염색 관련 인터넷 쇼핑몰 현황 및 제품 비교

정경희(Kyung Hee Chung),사진강(Jin Kang Sa),이미숙(Mi Suk Lee) 한국디자인문화학회 2011 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.17 No.1

본 연구의 목적은 고부가가치 쪽염색 제품의 개발과 마케팅 전략을 모색하기 위해 한국과 일본의 쪽염색 제품 판매 쇼핑몰 현황과 제품을 분석하는데 있다. 연구방법과 내용은 먼저 한국과 일본의 쪽염색 관련문헌과 선행연구를 중심으로 친환경 패션과 천연염색, 한국과 일본의 쪽염색에 대해 고찰한 다음, 한국과 일본에서 쪽염색 제품을 판매하고 있는 인터넷 쇼핑몰을 분석대상으로 하여 쇼핑몰의 오픈 연도, 오프라인 매장 유무, 업체별 소재지, 염재의 종류와 천연염색상품의 현황 및 아이템, 아이템별 가격대 등을 분석하여 비교하였다. 연구결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 한국 쇼핑몰의 경우 온·오프라인 쇼핑몰의 90% 이상이 2000년 이후에 오픈한 반면, 일본의 경우 오프라인 쇼핑몰은 50%이상이 2000년 이전부터 오프라인 매장을 운영해 왔으며, 그 중 3업체는 100년 이상 운영되어오고 있었다. 업체별 소재지에서 한국은 쪽 재배면적의 40% 이상을 차지하는 전남 지역보다 서울과 경기에 많은 업체가 분포되어 있는 반면, 일본은 쪽이 가장 많이 생산되는 지역인 도쿠시마를 중심으로 그 인근 지역인 교토와 오사카, 오카야마 지역, 그리고 일본의 수도인 도쿄에 업체가 많이 분포되어 있었다. 둘째, 쪽염색 제품을 판매하고 있는 쇼핑몰에서 활용하고 있는 염재를 분석한 결과, 한국은 대부분의 업체가 쪽과 기타 염재를 같이 활용하고 있는 반면, 일본은 쪽염재 만을 활용하고 있는 업체가 많았다. 쪽과 다른 염재를 함께 활용하고 있는 업체 경우, 한국에서는 황토, 오배자, 감물, 소목, 양파, 쑥, 꼭두서니, 락, 황련, 일본은 감, 초목, 먹물, 머드, 오배자, 빈랑 순으로 많이 나타났다. 셋째, 인터넷 쇼핑몰의 제품에서 쪽염색 제품은 한국이 13.6%에 불과한 반면, 일본은 89.1%나 되었다. 쪽 염색 제품의 종류는 한국의 경우, 패션 소품이 가장 많고, 그 다음으로 성인복, 인테리어 소품, 침구 순이었으며 일본의 경우는 성인복이 가장 많고, 그 다음으로 패션 소품, 인테리어 소품, 원단 및 염료 순으로 많이 나타났다. 넷째, 아이템별 가격대를 분석한 결과, 일본 쪽염색 제품의 가격대가 한국 제품보다 다양한 것으로 나타났다. 한국과 일본의 쪽염색 제품별로 높게 나타난 가격대를 비교해 보면 성인복 중 티셔츠와 팬츠, 스커트 등은 일본, 투피스는 한국, 아동복에서 티셔츠는 일본 제품의 가격대가 높았고 신생아용품은 가격대가 유사한 것으로 나타났다. 패션 소품에서는 스카프, 손수건, 넥타이, 핸드폰 줄·열쇠고리, 인테리어 소품에서는 다기용품과 수건·행주는 한국, 쿠션, 방석, 실내화 등은 일본 제품의 가격대가 높았다. 그리고 쪽 염색 원단과 위생용품은 가격대가 유사했다. 이상의 연구결과 특화된 염료를 개발하고 이를 상품화해야 하며, 고유브랜드 개발, 소비자 욕구에 맞춘 디자인 및 가격의 다양화, 고부가가치화가 필요함을 알 수 있었다. This study aims to analyze the present state and products of shopping malls that sell natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan to develop high value-added indigo dyed products and explore their marketing strategies. For study methods and contents, eco-fashion, natural dyeing, and indigo dyeing in Korea and Japan were reviewed with its focus on indigo dyeing-related literature and previous research were. Then, analysis and comparison were made on opening year, off-line shops, location, kinds of dyestuff, natural indigo dyed products and items, and the price zone of items in Internet shopping malls selling indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. The results of this study are as follows. First, for Korean shopping malls, over 90% of on-and off-line shopping malls were opened after 2000, whereas over 50% of Japanese off-line shopping malls were opened before 2000. Of these Japanese shopping malls, three shops have been run over 100 years. Concerning the location, many Korean shops were located in Seoul and Gyeonggi rather than Jeonnam. which accounted for over 40% of indigo plant farming. However, most Japanese shops were distributed in Tokushima where the indigo plant commonly grows, neighboring areas such as Kyoto, Osaka, and Okayama, and Tokyo, the capital of Japan. Second, the results of analyzing the dyestuff which was used in shopping malls selling natural indigo dyed products indicate that most Korean shops used both the indigo plant and other dyestuff, whereas Japanese shops commonly used the indigo plant alone. In the cases where they used natural indigo dyes and the other dyes, the most frequently used dyes in the Korean shopping malls were loess, followed by gullnut, persimmon, sappan wood, onion, madder, lac and goldthread. In the Japanese shopping malls, the most frequent dyes were persimmon, followed by vegetation, Chinese ink, mud, gullnut, and betel nut. Third, for the products of internet shopping malls, natural indigo dyed products accounted for 13.6% in Korea but 89.1% in Japan. The highest ordered natural indigo product categories in Korean shopping malls were accessories, followed by adult clothes, interior decoration products, and bedding. In the Japanese shopping malls, the highest ordered natural indigo product categories were adult clothes, followed by accessories, interior decoration products, and natural indigo dyed fabrics and dyes. Forth, as a result of analyzing the price zone for these items, it was found that Japanese natural indigo dyed products had a more diverse price zone than Korean ones. In a comparison of the price zone of the natural indigo dyed products between Korea and Japan, it was found that while Japanese products had a higher price zone in T-shirts, pants, and skirts for adults and T-shirts for kids, Korean products had a higher price zone in two-pieces. A similar price zone was found in baby goods. While the price zone of scarf, handkerchief, necktie, mobile phone strings, key holders(fashion accessories), tea wares(interior goods), towels, and dishcloths was higher in Korea. However, the price zone of cushions and slippers was higher in Korea. Natural indigo dyed fabrics and hygiene products showed a similar price zone in both countries. Based on these results, it is necessary to develope and commercialize special dyes, develop proper brands, diversify design and price to meet consumer`s needs, and create high added value.

INDIGO DYEING OF VARIOUS COLORS WITH POLYPHENOLS, AND INVENTING NEW POLYPHENOL SENSOR UTILIZING INDIGO DYEING OF VARIOUS COLORS

Dong Eun LEE,Seong Hyeon BAE,Da Hong KIM 국제과학영재학회 2015 APEC Youth Scientist Journal Vol.7 No.1

The antioxidant power of polyphenols has made it possible to have cloth dyed green by affecting the oxidation-reduction reaction of indigo. In addition with concentrations of polyphenol, there has been a more powerful impact on green-dyeing and by performing several experiments, we were able to make some trend-lines about how much green color a dyed cloth has and demonstrated that the cloth’s color shows how much antioxidative activity an antioxidant has. We expect that we could get more accurate lines with more experiments. Using this method, a brand-new polyphenol sensor which is cheaper and safer than preexisting ones can be possibly invented.

천연염료의 복합염색 연구: 포도당 환원 쪽과 괴화를 중심으로

최종명(Choi, Jongmyoung) 충북대학교 생활과학연구소 2019 생활과학연구논총 Vol.23 No.2

This study was conducted to develop eco-friendly fashion fabrics for LOHAS consumers. Silk fabrics were dyed with a combination of natural indigo using glucose reduction and Japanese pagoda tree and treated with mordants afterward. The color characteristics (L * a * b * value, Munsell color system, PCCS tones) of the silk fabrics were analyzed according to the combination dyeing order (Japanese pagoda tree→indigo vs. indigo→Japanese pagoda tree), the concentration of indigo dye (10g/L, 20g/L, 30g/L), and the type of mordants (Al, Cu, Fe, Zn). The silk fabrics showed a green yellow (GY) color regardless of the order in which the two dyes were applied, but the color tone differed depending on the dyeing order. Namely, when Japanese pagoda tree dye was applied first, the color GY had a light grayish tone, but when indigo dye was used first, it had a light tone. Also, the color tone differed according to the concentration of indigo. The color tone of silk fabrics dyed with Japanese pagoda tree first were a light grayish tone, but the color tone of those dyed with indigo first changed from a light tone to a soft tone as the concentration of indigo increased. In addition, the color characteristics of the silk fabrics with combination dyeing showed differences according to the type of mordants. The color of the fabrics that were dyed Japanese pagoda tree first showed a light grayish tone of GY (Al, Cu, Zn) and a grayish tone of GY (Fe). On the other hand, the color of the fabrics that were dyed indigo first showed a bright tone of GY (Al, Zn), a strong tone of yellow (Cu), and a dark grayish tone of Y (Fe).

지속가능 천연염색을 이용한 한지직물의 색채공간 확장: 쪽염색과 복합염색을 중심으로

손경희 한국염색가공학회 2023 韓國染色加工學會誌 Vol.35 No.2

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural idigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

황색계 천연염재와 쪽 염료의 복합염색시 염색순서와 매염제 종류에 따른 견직물의 색채특성

이지연(Lee, Jiyeun),김동은(Kim, Dongeun),이승용(Yi, Sengyoung),이승주(Lee, Seungju),이주원(Lee, Juwon),정수진(Jeong, Sujin),최종명(Choi, Jongmyoung) 충북대학교 생활과학연구소 2019 생활과학연구논총 Vol.23 No.1

This study was conducted to find green color diversity through combination dyeing of natural dyestuffs. Silk fabrics were dyed in combination with good fastness of natural indigo and yellowish natural dyes. Following combination dyeing, three kinds of mordants were treated. The color characteristics of silk fabrics with combination dyeing were measured. The greens of silk fabrics displayed slight differences according to the combination dyeing sequence. It was found that dyeing with indigo followed by yellow resulted in good green color ( GY, G, BG ). The green represented by the concentration of indigo (niram) showed a slight difference. Green colors ( GY, G, BG ) were more strongly expressed when the concentration of indigo was 5-10 g/l. The green color of combination dyed fabrics showed a slight difference according to the kind of yellowish natural dyestuffs used. The use of turmeric and Amur cork tree was more effective than the Japanese pagoda tree after dyeing with indigo first. When dyeing with indigo followed by a yellowish dye, color characteristics were different according to the type of mordant. Additionally, the color characteristics of silk fabrics treated with mordants were not significantly changed compared to fabrics not treated with mordant for dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree and turmeric. However, the color characteristics of silk fabrics dyed with Amur cork tree were slightly changed.

사판 수입 생쪽 분말 염료의 면직물에 대한 염색성 및 염색견뢰도 연구

양월 ( Yue Yang ),안춘순 ( Cheun Soon Ahn ),박진성 ( Jin Sung Park ),이룡춘 ( Long Chun Li ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.4

The purpose of this research was to find the suitable dyeing method for dyeing cotton fabric into indigo blue color using the raw indigo powder dyes sold in the Korean market. The research focused primarily on the comparison of the non-reduced dyeing method and the reduced dyeing method. The dyeing effects using different dyeing temperatures (2 -80t) and different concentrations of reducing agent and alkali were also investigated. It was found that the reduced dyeing method must he used for dyeing cotton into indigo blue color using the commercial raw indigo powder dyes. The best result was obtained by 20t dyeing with the 40t dyeing giving a comparable result. The intensity of the blue color could be enhanced by increasing the alkali concentration. The non-reduced dyeing could not dye cotton fabric into indigo blue color at any given dyeing temperatures (2-8Ot). The reduce-dyed cotton fabrics showed a gradual color change upon repeated washing and extended sunlight exposure, the most color change occurring after the first two washing cycles and the first S hours of sunlight exposure, The standard tests of colorfastness showed that the reduce-dyed cotton fabrics had good to excellent colorfastness whereas the colorfastness of the non-reduce-dyed cotton fabrics were mostly poor.