테크니컬 디자이너의 업무 특성에 관한 연구 : 국내 의류수출업체를 중심으로

김안지,김소라 한국패션디자인학회 2012 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.12 No.3

테크니컬 디자이너는 의류제품의 기획부터 생산단계 전면에서 의류의 기술적인 부분을 담당하는 패션 스페셜리스트이다. 본 연구에서는 테크니컬 디자이너의 중요성을 알리고 국내 내수브랜드 및 미래의 테크니컬 디자이너들에게 테크니컬 디자인에 대한 기초 자료를 제공하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 이를 위하여 국내 의류수출업체에 근무하는 테크니컬 디자이너를 대상으로 테크니컬 디자이너의 업무 특성 및 자격 조건 등에 대하여 설문조사를 하였다. 국내 의류수출업체의 주요 제작 품목으로는 컷앤쏘우니트 제품이 가장 많고 그 다음이 우븐 제품으로 나타났다. 바이어와의 업무 전개에 대하여 본 연구의 조사결과 가장 높은 비율을 차지한 내용을 근거로 정리하면 다음과 같다. 바이어의 테크니컬 패키지가 의류수출업체인 벤더로 전달된 후 벤더에서는 한 개의 모델패턴을 제작한다. 테크니컬 패키지의 그레이딩 편차에 근거하여 그레이딩을 한 후 코어 사이즈로 샘플을 제작한다. 벤더 테크니컬 디자이너는 바이어와 동일한 드레스폼을 사용하여 피팅을 한다. 수정·보완된 샘플을 바이어에게 발송하면 바이어 테크니컬 디자이너는 드레스폼이나 핏모델을 사용하여 피팅을 한다. 피팅 결과에 근거하여 벤더에서는 패턴을 수정하고 프로덕션 패턴을 제작하여 공장 생산에 들어간다. 벤더 테크니컬 디자이너는 공장의 초두생산 결과를 확인한다. 테크니컬 디자이너의 업무를 분야별로 조사한 결과, 의복의 균형, 의복 구성요소의 위치, 의복 여유분에 관련된 피팅 업무가 테크니컬 디자이너의 주요 업무인 것으로 나타났다. 국내 의류수출업체에서 근무하는 테크니컬 디자이너는 전체적인 생산라인을 관리하기도 하지만 완벽한 의복을 빠른 시간 내에 제작할 수 있도록 샘플제작과 수정에 주력하는 것으로 나타났다. 테크니컬 디자이너의 자격조건으로는 피팅능력, 패턴수정능력, 영어능력, 봉제방법에 대한 지식 등이 중요한 것으로 나타났다.

테크니컬디자이너 양성을 위한 관련 교과과정에 대한 연구

김윤희(Kim, Yun Hee),이진희(Lee, Jin Hee) 한국디자인문화학회 2017 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.23 No.4

테크니컬 디자이너는 의류 제품 기획부터 생산단계에 이르기까지 의류의 기술적인 부분을 담당하는 패션 스페셜리스트이다. 점차 글로벌화 되어가는 의류환경의 변화에 맞춰 학계에서 보다 적극적으로 교과목 개편 및 개정을 통해 기존의 교과목의 내용 및 과목명에 대한 적극적인 변화가 요구되어지고 있어 의류설계 및 생산 분야에서 필요한 테크니컬 디자이너 양성을 위한 대학의 현황과 교과과정의 개설에 관한 조사를 하였다. 연구를 위하여 국내의 4년제 대학 중 의류 · 패션관련학과가 개설된 81개교 82개 학과 홈페이지를 통해 공개된 교과목을 분석하였으며, 대학원의 경우 의류 · 패션관련 대학원 과정이 개설되어 있는 57개교 63개 학과에 대해 로그인을 하지 않고 확인할 수 있는 공개된 교과목에 대해 분석을 하였다. 연구시기는 2016년 8월 29일에서 9월 8일까지로 하였다. 국내 4년제 대학의 패션 관련 학과는 서울 · 인천 · 경기 지역이 36%, 부산과 대구를 포함한 경상남북도에서 28.5%로 나타났다. 패션 관련 학과가 속해 있는 단과 대학별로 살펴본 결과, 예술군에 39개, 생활과학군에 15개, 자연과학군에 10개, 인문/문화군에 7개, 기타 11개의 학과로 나타났다. 지역별 테크니컬 디자인 관련 교과목의 개설 분포는 대학의 경우 서울29%(5개 대학), 충청도 지역11% (각각2개 대학), 부산 · 광주 · 대전 · 경기도 · 전라도 각각 10%(각각 2개교), 대학원은 서울40%(2개 대학원), 대전 · 부산 · 전라도20%(각각 1개교) 순으로 나타났다. 대학에서의 테크니컬 디자인 관련 교과목 명은 테크니컬 디자인, 테크니컬 디자인 실무, 의복구성과 테크니컬 디자인, 테크니컬 디자인과 패턴 CAD이란 과목명으로 개설되었고, 대학원에서 테크니컬 디자인 교과목은 테크니컬 디자인, 테크니컬 스튜디오, 피팅방법 연구로 조사되었다. 테크니컬 디자인 관련 교과목의 교과내용을 살펴본 결과, 테크니컬 디자이너의 주업무인 작업지시서를 작성하고 의류상품 개발과 평가를 위한 기술습득을 위한 실무 교육을 하는 ‘테크니컬 디자인’과 패턴수정 능력과 그레이딩 작업이 요구되는 직무의 특성상 ‘CAD나 3D’ 관련 수업이 이루어지고 있었으나 바이어와의 커뮤니케이션을 위한 교과목은 개설되지 않은 것으로 나타났다. 테크니컬 디자이너에 대한 필요성을 인식하고 학계에서 교육이 되어지고 있는 것을 알 수 있었다. 앞으로 국내 테크니컬 디자이너의 수요가 더 늘어갈 것이고, 해외 취업의 기회가 증가할 것으로 예상되어 교육의 필요성이 더 커지고 있다. A technical designer is a fashion specialist who takes charge of technological parts from design planning to production level. In accordance with the changes in the increasingly globalized clothing environment, more active reforms and revisions of curriculum in the academic world and the curriculum educating designers in it are required to actively change the contents of existing courses and the names of subjects, so many universities are striving to foster technical designers, thereby I conducted a survey on the status of universities and the opening of their curriculum. For the purpose of this study, I analyzed the subjects that were opened through 82 homepages of 81 4-year universities in Korea in which clothing and fashion-related departments are opened. In the case of the graduate school, 63 courses of 57 graduate schools with apparel and fashion-related courses were analyzed only through the open courses that can be confirmed without login. The number of fashion-related departments of domestic 4-year colleges was 36% in Seoul and Incheon, and 28.5% in Gyeongsangnam-do and Gyeongsangbuk-do including Busan and Daegu. As a result of looking into the colleges that have fashion-related departments, 39 arts groups, 15 life science groups, 10 natural science groups, 7 humanities/cultural groups, and 11 other departments appeared. The distribution of technical design-related subjects by region is as follows: 29% (5 universities) in Seoul, 15% (3 universities) in Chungcheong province, 11% (2 in each) in Busan, Gwangju, Daejeon, Gyeonggi-do, and Jeolla province. In case of graduate school, 40% in Seoul (2 graduate schools), Daejeon, Busan, Jeolla-do 20% (1 in each). In the universities, technical design-related subjects were named as technical design, technical design practice, composition of clothing and technical design, and technical design pattern CAD. In graduate school, it was named as technical design, technical studio, and fitting method research. As a result of examining the subject contents of technical design-related subjects, they are technical design which is to make work instruction book which is the main duty of technical designer, CAD and 3D that require pattern modification ability and grading works, but there were no courses for communication with buyer. In academia, the need for technical designers is recognized and education is provided for them. In the future, the demand for domestic technical designers is expected to increase more and the opportunities for overseas employment are expected to increase, and the need for education for these is increasing.

패션 테크니컬디자이너 실무교육 강화를 위한 스캐폴딩

임민정 한국패션디자인학회 2019 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.19 No.1

This study aimed to propose scaffolding as an educational method for technical design to narrow the difference between education and the practical field of the fashion industry and connect the education to practical affairs effectively. The educational contents of technical design were selected by investigating the problems and errors occurring in the process of business performance, conducting in-depth interviews with the technical designers in the industries. The teaching and learning stages were divided based on the business process performed by technical designers to propose the scaffolding necessary for each stage. As a result of the study, education of the technical design was composed of fit development and spec. proposal, technical package, fit schedule and fitting, sample evaluation and approval, request for pattern modification, and terminology of grading practice. The stages of business performance and scaffolding for technical design are as follows. First, the stages of fit and spec. were divided into the method of measuring clothes, selecting and measuring samples, modifying spec., and checking to propose the scaffolding of demonstration, modeling, Q&A, and feedback. Second, the technical package was composed of the technical flat sketch, detail sketch, information about materials and unit prices, and a spec. sheet to propose the scaffolding of description and demonstration, modeling, problem recognition, enhancement and feedback, and Q&A. Third, fit schedule and fitting were divided into the stages of fitting preparation, fit problem observation, pattern modification, and fit comment preparation to propose the scaffolding of problem recognition, question, demonstration and description, and feedback. Fourth, the evaluation and approval of samples were divided into the conditions and criteria for evaluating them and checking the conditions for them to propose the scaffolding of problem recognition and feedback. Fifth, the request for pattern modification was divided into sample observation, modification method, pattern modification and verification to propose the scaffolding of case presentation, inference, description, and feedback. Sixth, grading was divided into size level, deviation by part, and size checking to propose the scaffolding of case presentation and inference. Lastly, as for the use of terminology, repetitive scaffolding was proposed so that the workers could be trained through situated learning and technical package drawing in each stage of business performance. In technical design, education centered around the actual business performance of technical design is more important than education centered around the production of clothes for connecting to practical affairs and providing a sense of realism even the job of producing clothes in practices in the fashion industry, and for effective learning, scaffolding should be provided, which presents cases, recognizes problems, draws inferences, and provides feedback. 이 연구는 교육과 패션산업 실무현장의 차이를 좁히고 효과적으로 실무와 연계하기 위한 테크니컬디자인 교육 방법으로써 스캐폴딩 제안을 목적으로 하였다. 테크니컬 디자인 교육내용은 산업체 테크니컬 디자이너를 대상으로 심층 면접을 실시하여 업무 수행 과정에서 발생하는 문제 및 오류를 조사하여 선정하였다. 테크니컬디자이너가 수행하는 업무 과정을 기반으로 교수·학습 단계를 구분하고 각 단계에 필요한 스캐폴딩을 제안하였다. 연구결과, 테크니컬 디자인을 위한 교육은 핏 개발과 스펙 제안, 테크니컬 패키지, 핏 스케줄과 피팅, 샘플 평가와 승인, 패턴 수정 의뢰, 그레이딩 실무 전문 용어로 구성하였다. 테크니컬디자인 업무 수행 단계와 스캐폴딩은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 핏과 스펙 제안은 의복 측정 방법, 샘플 선정 및 측정, 스펙수정, 확인 단계로 구분하여 시연, 모델링, 질의응답, 피드백의 스캐폴딩을 제안하였다. 둘째, 테크니컬 패키지는 테크니컬 플랫 스케치, 디테일 스케치, 소재 및 단가정보, 스펙시트로 구성하였으며 설명과 시범, 모델링, 문제 인식, 강화와 피드백, 질의응답의 스캐폴딩을 제안하였다. 셋째, 핏 스케줄과 피팅은 피팅 준비, 핏에 대한 문제관찰, 패턴 수정, 핏 코멘트 작성 단계로 구분하여 문제 인식, 질문, 시범과 설명, 피드백으로 제안하였다. 넷째, 샘플 평가와 승인은 샘플 평가 요건과 기준, 샘플 상태 확인으로 구분하고 문제 인식과 피드백 스캐폴딩을 제안하였다. 다섯째, 패턴 수정 의뢰는 샘플 관찰, 수정 방법, 패턴 수정, 검증의 단계로 구분하여 사례 제시, 추론, 설명, 피드백의 스캐폴딩을 제안하였다. 여섯째, 그레이딩은 사이즈 단계, 부위별 편차, 사이즈 확인으로 구분하여 사례 제시와 추론의 스캐폴딩을 제안하였다. 마지막으로 전문 용어의 사용은 각 업무 수행 단계에서 상황학습과 테크니컬 패키지 작성을 통하여 숙련될 수 있도록 반복의 스캐폴딩을 제안하였다. 테크니컬 디자인은 패션산업 실무에서 의류 생산을 위한 직무라 할지라도 실무 연계와 현장감을 제공을 위해 의류 제작 중심의 교육보다는 테크니컬디자인의 실제 업무 수행 중심의 교육이 중요하며 효과적인 학습을 위해서는 사례 제시와 문제 인식과 추론, 결과에 대한 피드백 스캐폴딩이 제공되어야 한다.

패션 테크니컬 디자인 교육 프로그램에 관한 질적 연구 평가

이은영(Eun Young Lee) 한국디자인문화학회 2015 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.21 No.1

이 연구는 개발된 대학교육용 테크니컬 디자인 교육 프로그램에 대한 질적 평가를 실시하기 위해 선별된 전문가들에게 심층면접을 실시하였다. 도출된 프로그램의 주요 내용별 교육의 필요성, 만족도 및 개선안에 대해 분석하고, 분석된 결과를 바탕으로 한국의 패션 디자인 대학을 위한 교육 프로그램 수정안을 제시하였다. 심층면접은 6명의 테크니컬 디자이너와 관련교과목 3명의 교수자를 대상으로 2013년 4월 17일부터 5월 9일까지 각 의류 벤더와 의상학과를 직접 방문하여 수행되었다. 테크니컬 디자인 교육 프로그램에 대한 만족도는 매우 높은 것으로 나타났으며, 각각의 주요 내용별 평가는 다음과 같다: 테크니컬 디자이너 주요 업무 및 의류 산업체 배경, 테크니컬 패키지, 제품치수, 피팅및 패턴 수정, 그레이딩, 현장학습에 대한 교육은 매우 필요한 교육으로 나타났다. 샘플 제작과 3D 가상샘플 교육에 관한 평가는 평가자에 따라 의견에 차이가 나타났다. 인터뷰 결과, 교육의 중요성에 따라 교육 프로그램의 시간의 배분 조정이 필요하며, 관련 교과목을 좀더 심층적으로 나누어 교육해야 하며, 제작 및 3D 가상시현기술에 관한 교육은 기존의 교과목을 통해 완성하거나 따로 추가적인 교육 시간이 필요할 것으로 나타났다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 평가 분석을 기반으로 2가지 개선안을 제안하였다. 제 1안은 2개의 새로운 교과목, 즉 기초과정과 심화과정으로 나누어 제안하였으며, 제 2안은 의복구성 분야의 기존의 교과목 분석을 통해 기존 교과목에 테크니컬 디자인 교육 프로그램의 수정방안을 통합하는 것이다. 이를 통해 각대학들의 교과과정에 맞게 유기적으로 변경하여 테크니컬 디자인 교육 프로그램이 실질적 의미를 제공하기를 기대한다. This study was conducted through in-depth interviews with selected experts in order to make a qualitative evaluation of a technical design education program which we developed for universities. It analyzes the necessity, the satisfaction, and the improvements of the main contents of the model, and it suggests revisions in the education programs for Korean fashion design universities, based on the results of the analysis. The in-depth interviews were conducted with six technical designers and three professors during visits to each clothing vendor and clothing department in Korean universities from April 17th to May 9th, 2013. Respondents were very highly satisfied with the technical design education model in general, and their evaluations of the main points are as follows: The interviews revealed that education in technical designers’ major tasks and the background of the apparel industry, technical packages, sample measurement, fitting methods and pattern corrections, grading, and field work is greatly needed. The evaluation regarding the education in sample making and 3D virtual sample showed different results, according to the respondents. The interview revealed that the time distribution of the education model had to be adjusted according to the order of the educational importance, and the education of sample making and 3D clothes modeling system needed to be taught through already existing courses or during additional training time. This study suggests two improvements based on these evaluations: one is providing two new courses, a basic course and an advanced course, and the other one is integrating modified version of the technical design education model into existing courses in the clothing construction field. This paper expects to provide practical implications of this technical design education model and to show how it can be applied flexibly, according to the curriculum of each university.

테크니컬 디자이너의 자기효능감이 직무만족과 조직몰입에 미치는 영향

김영태 ( Young Tae Kim ),황춘섭 ( Choon Sup Hwang ) 복식문화학회 2015 服飾文化硏究 Vol.23 No.6

This study analyzed the impact of sense of self-efficacy on job satisfaction and organizational commitment among technical designers in order to acquire information needed for human resources management in the field of technical design. The study was implemented through a normative-descriptive survey method using a questionnaire. The sample consisted of 217 technical designers working at vendors and agents located in Seoul. The results revealed that there were significant differences in the sense of self-efficacy levels among technical designers according to age and work experience. Personal self-efficacy had a positive influence on both intrinsic and extrinsic job satisfaction, but also on affective, continuance, and normative organizational commitment. In addition, personal self-efficacy had a greater influence on extrinsic job satisfaction than social self-efficacy. Both personal and social self-efficacy influenced continuance commitment while there was no relationship between social self-efficacy and affective organizational commitment. However, a clear relationship was found between both social and personal self-efficacy and normative organizational commitment. Nevertheless, social self-efficacy had a greater influence on normative organizational commitment than personal self-efficacy. This fact demonstrates the need to exert more effort to promote the sense of personal self-efficacy of technical designers. These results could be used to provide appropriate proposals for human resources management in the field of technical design.

테크니컬 디자이너의 업무 및 교육 실태에 관한 연구 -벤더(Vendor)와 에이전트(Agent) 테크니컬 디자이너를 대상으로-

이은영 ( Eun Young Lee ),최혜선 ( Hei Sun Choi ),도월희 ( Wol Hee Do ) 한국의류학회 2013 한국의류학회지 Vol.37 No.3

This study reported present state of clothing technical designers` work duties and working conditions, so as to suggest effective ways to develop professional training methods for them. Technical designers working for vendors and agents were surveyed as they represent the majority of technical designers in Korean clothing industries. Survey participants were 62 technical designers working for 6 clothing vendors and 2 clothing agents, and the survey closely inspected their work qualifications, duties and responsibilities, working conditions and training conditions. Survey was conducted from June 27th to July 17th, 2012. The questionnaire examined frequency analysis and multiple response analysis using SPSS 19.0 Windows after investigating documents and work fields through personal experiences and interviews from technical designers for data collection and analysis. A chi-square test analyzed the preferred type of fitting for technical designers of vendors and agents. The results showed that 32.3% of those surveyed have more than 7 years of work experience and the highest level of education is predominantly a bachelor`s degree (57 people, 91.9%). Among the work responsibilities, respondents did sample measuring more than four times a day. Also, the results showed that technical designers needed to qualify: first ``Fitting Technic``, second ``Pattern Correction Capability``, and third ``English Skills to Communicate with Buyers``; subsequently, education on several technics (such as measuring, grading, and fitting) were required for the job. Current technical designers answered that they need more various work-related education. However, the analyzed results showed that pre work-related training was insufficient. The data shows that technical designers require re-education in ``Pattern Correction Method`` (61.3%) and ``Sewing Education`` (64.5%).

테크니컬 디자이너의 자기효능감이 직무만족과 조직몰입에 미치는 영향

김영태,황춘섭 복식문화학회 2015 服飾文化硏究 Vol.23 No.6

This study analyzed the impact of sense of self-efficacy on job satisfaction and organizational commitment among technical designers in order to acquire information needed for human resources management in the field of technical design. The study was implemented through a normative-descriptive survey method using a questionnaire. The sample consisted of 217 technical designers working at vendors and agents located in Seoul. The results revealed that there were significant differences in the sense of self-efficacy levels among technical designers according to age and work experience. Personal self-efficacy had a positive influence on both intrinsic and extrinsic job satisfaction, but also on affective, continuance, and normative organizational commitment. In addition, personal self-efficacy had a greater influence on extrinsic job satisfaction than social self-efficacy. Both personal and social self-efficacy influenced continuance commitment while there was no relationship between social self-efficacy and affective organizational commitment. However, a clear relationship was found between both social and personal self-efficacy and normative organizational commitment. Nevertheless, social self-efficacy had a greater influence on normative organizational commitment than personal self-efficacy. This fact demonstrates the need to exert more effort to promote the sense of personal self-efficacy of technical designers. These results could be used to provide appropriate proposals for human resources management in the field of technical design.

국내 의류상품개발과정에서 직종별 업무관여도 비교 - 테크니컬 디자인 업무 중심으로 -

김보아 ( Bo Ah Kim ),남윤자 ( Yun Ja Nam ),이재일 ( Jaeil Lee ),윤미경 ( Mi Kyung Yoon ) 한국의류산업학회 2016 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.18 No.5

The purpose of this study is 1) to research how practitioners in fashion industry in South Korea perceive concepts of Technical Design/Designer, 2) to compare and analyze issues at work by occupation, 3) to research specific works in garment development process, and 4) to compare and analyze work involvement by occupation, type of a company and etc, and 5) to propose the role of Technical Designers in apparel companies in South Korea. There were two methods to conduct this study, which were in-depth interview and survey. Both methods were conducted to designers, merchandisers, pattern makers, technical designers, and production coordinators. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and Factor analysis were performed to get results by using SPSS 18.0 program. The results are following. There were 50 works during garment development process from the result of in-depth interview, and 6 factors were obtained from the result of Factor analysis, which were ‘Works about Sample in Sample Development Process’, ‘Works about Product’s Pattern and Size Spec’, ‘Works about Development of Garment’s Design’, ‘Works about Planning of Product Development and Management of Product in Stock’, ‘Works about Production Process’, and ‘Preparation Works for Sample Development’. In conclusion, technical designer in apparel companies in South Korea should be in charge of works about sample in sample development process and decision making of product’ size spec, which is included in works about product’s pattern and size spec. Also, they should complete technical package after product is developed by designers.

의류샘플 생산 프로세스 상 발생하는 오류에 관한 연구

김성현 ( Sung-hyun Kim ),도월희 ( Wol-hee Do ) 한국의류산업학회 2017 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.19 No.3

This study researched the status and prospect of a natural dye program in Gyeongsang region that focused on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources were available for natural dyes. The entire site for metropolitan cities that have difficulty in securing the land are limited (as well as smaller) because they are closer to the city; in addition, they do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes. It is understood that the one-time program of all centers researched help to promote and maintain the centers rather than generating profit; in addition, it is shown that Jun - Aug (summer) is preferred over Dec - Feb (winter). This program uses natural indigo; consequently, natural dye program for hobby and education is operated when it is required because the number of participants are low in most cases, Persimmon Juice is used for the dyeing raw materials. Programs in operation are often outsourced with other institutes registered under private certification system; therefore, many cases of starting business are found in the institutes operating programs directly after obtaining the certification. Their plans do not allow for invest-ment in facility such as enlargement of experience center and prospect of program; in addition, business value is generally bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.

의복의 2D 도식화, 3D 가상착의, 실제착의 외관 평가 비교 -20~30대 중국인 평가를 중심으로-

왕설영,권채령,김동은 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.28 No.3,4

This study investigated similarities and differences between 2D flat sketch, 3D virtual clothing and real clothing images. Flat sketch, 3D virtual clothing, and real clothing images of T-shirts and dresses were made. Questionnaires were prepared for fit evaluation, sensory evaluation, and location evaluation. A survey of 440 questionnaires was collected from Chinese women in their 20s and 30s. As results of the sensibility evaluation, 3D virtual clothing expressed real clothing images slightly more similar than a 2D flat sketch. As results of the fit evaluation of the dresses, 2D flat sketch and 3D virtual clothing were rated as slightly longer/wider, and real clothing images were rated as slightly shorter/narrower. The results suggested that presenting 3D images with avatars as 3D virtual clothing images will provide more accurate fit evaluation results. This study presented possibilities and methods for apparel companies to utilize 3D system as an effective apparel production tool.