패션 커스터마이징 웹 GUI디자인연구 : 커스텀 니트웨어를 중심으로

장희수(Hui-Su Jang),남원석(Won-Suk Nam) 한국콘텐츠학회 2020 한국콘텐츠학회논문지 Vol.20 No.4

최근 가치관에 따라 소비하는 능동적인 소비자가 증가함 따라 커스터마이징 제품의 니즈도 증가하고 있는데, 이중에서도 자신의 개성을 전면적으로 표현할 수 있는 패션분야의 커스터마이징 시장이 커지고 있다. 이에 따라 패션 커스터마이징 웹이 대중화 되고 있지만, 커스텀 자유도가 낮기 때문에 니트웨어를 접목하여 커스텀 자유도를 높이고자한다. 이를 위해 커스터마이징, 니트디자인, GUI에 대한 선행연구와 문헌 조사를 통해 이론적 고찰을 하였고, 이를 바탕으로 니트디자인 프로그램과 패션 커스터마이징 웹의 레이아웃, 아이콘과 메뉴, 컬러, 인터렉션을 중심으로 사례 분석을 했다. 니트디자인은 다른 패션디자인 과정보다 고려사항이 많아 그에 따른 UI가 많아지기 때문에 사용자가 쉽게 인식할 수 있는 시각적 요소를 사용해야한다. 따라서 선행조사를 바탕으로 커스텀 니트웨어 GUI디자인 가이드라인 초안을 도출하고, 초안을 기반으로 전문가를 대상으로 3차례의 델파이 조사를 실시하였다. 각 항목은 델파이 조사과정에서 수정, 삭제하여 커스텀 니트웨어 웹 GUI디자인 가이드라인을 제작했다. 본 연구 결과를 통해 커스텀 니트웨어 웹의 GUI디자인 시 니트 커스텀 기능의 직관적 이해와 적용이 필요함을 파악할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 커스텀 니트웨어 웹사이트의 사용성 향상과 니팅머신을 활용한 니트 디자인 분야에 참고할 만한 자료로 기대된다. The need for customized products has also been increasing as more active consumers consume according to their values in recent years. Accordingly, fashion customizing web is becoming popular, but because custom freedom is low, we want to increase custom freedom by applying knitwear. To this end, a theoretical review was conducted through prior research and literature research on customization, knit design, and GUI, and based on this, a case analysis was conducted focusing on knit-making programs and fashion customizing web. Knit designs have more considerations than other fashion design process, resulting in more UIs, so users should use visual elements that are easily recognizable. Therefore, a draft assessment item was derived based on the preceding survey and three Delphi surveys were conducted on experts based on the draft. Each item was modified and deleted during the Delphi research process to produce the Custom Knitware Web GUI Design Guide. Through this study, we were able to identify the need for intuitive understanding and application of knit custom functions in GUI design of custom knitwear web. Through this research, it is expected that this data will be used to improve the usability of custom knitwear websites and to refer to knit design fields that utilize knit machines.

현대 니트패션디자인에 재현된 유희적 특성과 니트 기법 연구 - 2013 f/w ~ 2016 s/s 컬렉션을 중심으로 -

박소윤 ( So-yoon Park ),김현주 ( Hyun-joo Kim ) 커뮤니케이션디자인학회 2016 커뮤니케이션 디자인학연구 Vol.56 No.-

본 연구에서는 현대 니트 패션 디자인에 재현된 유희적 특성에 대해 분석함으로써 니트웨어에 표현된 다양한 표현기법과 특성에 대해 고찰하고 니트 디자인을 창의적으로 발전시키기 위한 활용 방안 및 단초를 제공하고자 하였다. 이를 위하여 본 연구의 연구대상은 세계 5대 패션 컬렉션인 파리, 밀라노, 뉴욕, 런던, 도쿄의 최근 6개(2013f/w~2016s/s)의 컬렉션 자료를 토대로 하였으며, 분류기준을 도출하기 위해 패션전문가 20명에게 델파이 설문조사를 실시하였다. 현대 니트패션 디자인에 재현된 유희적 특성 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 분류 기준이 되는 유희적 표현 기법은 그래피티, 패러디, 데포르마시옹, 유아적 모티브 차용, 데페이즈망 총 다섯가지였다. 이와 같은 기법으로 자료를 분석한 결과, 창조성, 풍자성, 유희성, 모방성, 과장성, 의외성, 유아성 총 7가지의 유희적 특성을 도출하였으며, 과장성과 유희성이 가장 높게 나타났다. 마지막으로, 상기의 연구와 더불어 미학적 연구를 기반으로 니트 디자인에 적용하기에 용이한 니팅 기법을 상호 연결해보았다. 궁극적으로 본 연구가 니트 패션디자인에 재현된 유희적 특성과 그를 효과적으로 표현하기 위한 니트 기법 연구 개발 및 발전에 기반이 되기를 바란다. The research is analyzing play characteristic of the modern knit fashion design to study diverse expression techniques and properties of knit wear in order to confer measures and reference of the application for developing knit design in an original way. The research was based on the recent 6 collection data from the world``s top 5 fashion collection: Paris, Milano, New York, London, Tokyo (2013f/w~2016s/s), and to deduct the criteria for classification, surveys were carried out to 100 fashion experts. The result from the research of play property shown from the modern knit fashion design is as follows. There were total of 5 criteria for classification of play expression technique: graffiti, parody, deformation, depaysement, and borrowing by kidults motifs. After analyzing the data with the same technique, creativity, sarcasm, enjoyment, imitation, exaggeration, unexpectedness, and infantility were the 7 properties that were deducted, while exaggeration and enjoyment were shown the most.

현대 니트패션에 나타난 공간 혼합의 디자인 특성

박문희(Moon Hee Park),김차현(Cha Hyun Kim) 한국디자인문화학회 2010 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.16 No.2

현대 사회는 수많은 네트워크에 따른 문화 공유에 따라 ‘혼합’의 흐름 속에 놓여 있으며, 니트 패션에서도 수요의 증가에 따라 새로운 디자인이 요구되고 있어 이에 따른 전략적 방안이 절실히 요구 되고 있다. 본 연구는 2000∼2008년의 세계 4대 여성컬렉션의 횡편 니트 3∼8게이지의 자료를 선정, 현대 니트 패션에 나타난 공간의 혼합의 연도, 시즌별 출현빈도와 실루엣, 조직, 게이지와 색상의 시즌별 출현빈도 및 사례별로 디자인 특성을 분석하여 창의적인 니트디자인이 나올 수 있는 방안을 모색하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 공간의 혼합의 출현빈도를 보면 2006년 이후 증가추세를 나타냈으며, F/W가 S/S에 비해 두 배 정도의 높은 빈도수를 나타냈다. 공간 혼합의 디자인 특성에서 실루엣은 여성스러움을 강조하는 특성으로 Hourglass실루엣이 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타냈으며. 게이지는 미들게이지와 하이게이지가 가장 높게 나타났다. 조직에서는 기본조직이 가장 높게 나타났으며, 북유럽의 전통적 아란 문양, 페어아일 등의 민속적 문양과 현대적인 디자인의 혼합과 관련되어 F/W에서 자카드 조직이 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타냈다. 색상의 빈도수를 살펴보면 S/S, F/W 두 시즌 모두 YR이 가장 높은 빈도수를 나타냈다. 현대 니트 패션에 나타난 공간의 혼합의 디자인 특성에서 중국 전통복식과 일본 전통 복식과의 혼합은 서양의 패턴 양식을 기본으로 트임, 컬러 모양, 여밈, 재단 등의 부분적 응용으로 전통복의 이미지를 혼합하는 특성을 나타냈다. 북유럽과 기타 지역의 혼합은 니트의 역사가 깊은 북유럽의 전통적 니트 문양의 단순화, 현대화로 혼합된 디자인 특성을 나타내고 있었다. 현대 니트패션에 나타난 공간의 혼합은 전통적인 상징성을 배재하고 모티프의 차용에 있어 오늘날의 특성에 어울리게 현대적인 해석을 통해 표현되고 있으며, 다문화 시대의 다채로운 문화의 특성, 이질적인 요소의 혼합으로 상상력이 더해져 그 표현 가능성의 범위가 점차 확대되어 가고 있음을 확인할 수 있었으며, 현대 니트패션의 새로운 디자인의 한 방향으로 활용될 수 있기를 기대한다. Modern society is placed amid a flow of `mixture` according to cultural sharing of resulting from numerous networks. Even in knit fashion, new design is being requested according to a rise in demand. Accordingly, a strategic plan is being desperately needed. This study selected materials of 3-8 gauges in flat knit for the world`s 4 Women Collections in 2000∼2008, The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the appearance frequency and analysis relevant to design element, silhouette, structure, gauge and color in the mixture of space shown in modern knit fashion Given seeing the appearance frequency in mixture of space, the bullish trend has been indicated since 2006. F/W showed the higher frequency by about twice compared to S/S. As for silhouette, design elements in the spatial mixture, the Hourglass silhouette showed the highest frequency as the characteristic of emphasizing feminine nature. In gauge, the middle gauge and high gauge were shown most highly. In structure, the basic structure was indicated most highly. Jacquard structure in F/W is analyzed to have shown the highest frequency due to being related to traditional Aran pattern in Northern Europe, folk pattern such as fair Isle, and mixture of modern design. Given examining frequency in color, YR showed the highest frequency in both seasons of S/S, F/W. In the design characteristics of spatial mixture shown in modern knit fashion, the mixture of Chinese traditional costume and Japanese traditional costume indicated the characteristic of mixing image of traditional clothes with partial application such as opening, color shape, fastening, and cutting based on a pattern form in the West. The mixture of Northern Europe and other region was showing the design characteristic, which was mixed with simplification and modernization of traditional knit pattern in Northern Europe, which has deep history in knit. The spatial mixture, which was shown in modern knit fashion, is being expressed through modern interpretation suitably for today`s characteristics in borrowing motif with excluding traditional symbolism. And, the scope in possibility of its expression could be confirmed to proceed with being expanded gradually by being added imagination owing to the characteristic in the diversified culture of multi-cultural era and to the mixture of heterogeneous elements. And is expected to be likely to be possibly utilized as data necessary for developing design in the field of knit fashion.

클라우드 기반의 패션디자인 프로세스 설계 및 구현에 관한 연구

이운영(Lee, Woon Young) 한국디자인문화학회 2016 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.22 No.3

본 연구의 목적은 클라우드 기반에서 활용 가능한 니트디자인 프로세스 정보 플랫폼을 구축하는 것이다. 연구의 이론적, 기술적 배경은 국내외 관련 업체 및 기관, 연구소들의 동향 보고서와 논문 및 단행본을 포함한 도서 · 출판물 등의 문헌조사를 중심으로 재구성하여 연계하였다. 연구의 범위는 니트디자인을 진행하기 위한 하나의 주제로 제한하였다. 주제에 따라 디자인 발상을 단계적으로 진행하여 그 과정에서 생성되는 전문 정보를 데이터화하여 니트디자인 프로세스 플랫폼을 구현하였다. 본 연구의 결론은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 클라우드 환경이 어딘가에 저장된 정보를 활용하는 것이라는 점을 이용하여 니트디자인 프로세스를 단계별로 지식정보 플랫폼을 가상공간에 구현하였다. 둘째, 클라우드의 특징이 수요자 중심의 맞춤형 서비스라는 점을 감안하여 수요자인 학생을 참여시킨 니트디자인 프로세스의 결과물을 정보 데이터로 제안하였다. 셋째, 니트디자인 프로세스는 발상단계, 아이디어, 조직연구, 텍스처 개발, 제작 단계로 설계되었다. 넷째, 니트디자인 실습을 통해 니트디자인 및 작품제작과정에서 도출된 정량적 자료와 정보를 데이터화하여 플랫폼에 제시하였다. A purpose of the study is to build an information platform in a knit design process used in cloud computing environment. Theoretical and technical background of the study was analyzed around a literature search such as reports of internal and external business, organ, and institute, and publications including thesis and book, and was matched with the progress of the research. The scope of study was limited to one topic for carrying out knit design. Design concept was generated in stages according to topic, and the specialized information produced in the process was datafied, and then a knit design process platform was implemented. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, a knowledge information platform was implemented in virtual space regarding knit design process in stages by taking advantage of the fact that cloud environment means the utilization of information stored somewhere. Second, taking into consideration that cloud was characterized by consumer-oriented customized service, the result of knit design process in which students, consumers, were invited to participate was suggested as information data. Third, knit design process was planned, consisting of concept generation, idea, study of structure, texture development, and knitting stages. Fourth, a platform was presented by the datafication of quantitative data and information derived in the process of knit design and work production through knit design practice.

국내 니트 스트리트 패션에서 해외 컬렉션 수용 정도에 관한 연구 - 2011 S/S시즌 중심으로 -

이유미 한국니트디자인학회 2011 패션과 니트 Vol.9 No.1

This study set out to investigate and examine how much Korea's knitted street fashion products accepted the design elements of overseas collections and thus offer practical help to the design and buying of street fashion design. The research findings were as follows: first, the most frequent fashion image of the overseas collections was modern, which was followed by elegance and causal in the order. Meanwhile, the most frequent fashion image in Korea's internet shopping malls was casual, which was followed by feminine and natural in the order. Second, the most frequent items were one-piece and pullover & cardigan in the overseas collections and Korea's Internet shopping malls, respectively. Third, the overseas collections used the H-shaped silhouette of medium room a lot, whereas Korea's Internet shopping malls did the O-shaped silhouette of much room. Fourth, both the groups used the plain structure most. The second most popular structure was the skashi, a transformed rib structure, in the overseas collections and the cable pattern in Korea's Internet shopping malls. Both the groups used the fine gauge most and the solid and stripe pattern most in the order. Fifth, the overseas collections used such achromatic colors as white, black, and light gray and such chromatic colors as beige in high frequency with orange and yellow as point colors. Meanwhile, Korea's Internet shopping malls used such achromatic colors as white and light gray and such chromatic colors as beige and pink in high frequency with violet and yellow as point colors. The most popular tones were pale, deep, and vivid in the order in both the groups. The overseas collections and Korea's Internet shopping malls shared many design elements such as structure, gauge, pattern, and color, which indicates that the former had influences on Korea's knitted street fashion. However, the influential relationships between them seem weak in item, silhouette, and fashion image.

니트웨어를 이용한 리폼 의상 디자인 연구

김미영 한국니트디자인학회 2010 패션과 니트 Vol.8 No.2

As modern society entails environmental destruction such as global warming and lack of resources, which threaten the survival of human beings, and the issue of enhancing the quality of life and the concept of environment-friendly have been highlighted, solutions to protect global environment have been sought. As the issue of health and environment has attracted a lot of interest from each field, themes of environment-friendly fashion are addressed in many fields. Recently, it is a trend to address recycling through reform, environment- friendly materials, natural dying, fair trade. The flow of fashion based on the trend has spreaded, and also in Korea interest in “environment-friendly fashion” has increased. With the cycle of fashion becoming faster, and due to increase of clothes that are no more weared after a short-time wearing, environmental problems by increased wastes are caused and economic loss is increasing. Accordingly, it is urgent to resolve such problems. This study examined the concept and effects of reform through literature reviews including previous studies, and reformed designs and created three one-piece dresses for girls aged 4 or 5, one vest, and one cape using adult knitted cardigans and full-over knit. Through these efforts, this study aims to develop and recreate structured design for reformed clothing, which will help prevent loss of energy resources due to environmental pollutions, and to present ways for new environment-friendly fashion designs that are practicable.

컬렉션에 나타난 니트 웨어의 소재 구성 요소 및 트랜드 분석

고순영,박명자 한국니트디자인학회 2009 패션과 니트 Vol.7 No.2

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy among design elements, and to predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. The study also identified design elements and fashion images from holistic perspectives, and confirmed mutual relevancy among such elements by year and season along with prediction of short-term trend direction. This study reached conclusions as follows: The distribution of frequency by fashion design elements, showed that the knit stitch of the highest frequency was plain stitch. In terms of the knitwear item, its highest proportion was shown to be the one piece dresses in a lot of knit located in a unique item, as the frequency of the highest gauge is more than 20G High gauge so that the trend of its knits showed light-weight of the material is changing. Machine knits were overwhelmingly more than hand-knits and regular yarns were predominantly than most of fancy yarns. The most pattern was solid followed by stripe, the full pattern with small size showed the highest frequency. Correlation between each variable showed highest relevancy among gauge, knit stitch, and knitting method, pattern and an array of patterns, pattern size. Material related elements showed a high correlation with knit stitch to make pattern and design.

웹 패션 상품 개발을 위한 니트 패션 트랜드 분석(제1보) - 09/10 F/W 컬렉션 분석을 중심으로 -

이건희 한국니트디자인학회 2009 패션과 니트 Vol.7 No.1

As the result of formation and development of digital culture, e-commerce market has expanded, and the consumers came to choose internet, which is represented as digital media by the means of expressing themselves, and the web fashion market is increasingly expanding. Meanwhile, consumer came to demand appropriate and comfortable attire to the rapid and complex social transformation, so this is increasing the consumption of knit wear. Especially, the trend of 09/10 F/W trend predicts that ranging from low gauge that has thick texture to dense knit for outwear production such as jacket, various utilization of knit wear will increase. In this sense, this study tried to contribute web fashion shopping mall by designing knit wear that has utilized various kinds of knit wear. We are to consider a notion of knit and the composition of knit as the study method referring to the related volumes. By analyzing visual data, we tried to extract design factors by analyzing the features of the next season knit wear. Consequently, we could change the surface for the composition of knit solidly, so those knit wears were appropriate to the web fashion products sold by visual images, and the advantage that we can make various knit compositions by the identical materials enables variety of design as well as various item production, so we could know that we must pay attention to the next generation materials which fulfill the desire of the consumers. As the result of formation and development of digital culture, e-commerce market has expanded, and the consumers came to choose internet, which is represented as digital media by the means of expressing themselves, and the web fashion market is increasingly expanding. Meanwhile, consumer came to demand appropriate and comfortable attire to the rapid and complex social transformation, so this is increasing the consumption of knit wear. Especially, the trend of 09/10 F/W trend predicts that ranging from low gauge that has thick texture to dense knit for outwear production such as jacket, various utilization of knit wear will increase. In this sense, this study tried to contribute web fashion shopping mall by designing knit wear that has utilized various kinds of knit wear. We are to consider a notion of knit and the composition of knit as the study method referring to the related volumes. By analyzing visual data, we tried to extract design factors by analyzing the features of the next season knit wear. Consequently, we could change the surface for the composition of knit solidly, so those knit wears were appropriate to the web fashion products sold by visual images, and the advantage that we can make various knit compositions by the identical materials enables variety of design as well as various item production, so we could know that we must pay attention to the next generation materials which fulfill the desire of the consumers.

니트 패션의 융합디자인에 관한 연구- 2005 S/S∼2013 F/W시즌 중심으로 -

이유미 한국니트디자인학회 2013 패션과 니트 Vol.11 No.3

Along with change of life style for consumers, knit fashion has grown as main consumption trend in 21st century, which leads to high growth rate. As a result, expansion of its market is expected, and research and development of the item is needed. Accordingly, to develop design to meet emotional desire of consumers by reflecting culture of modern society, the study examined fusion to reflect present multiplicated social phenomena, investigated its application degree to knit fashion and applied molding characteristic, and then, tried to analyze correlation. Fusion of knit fashion was divided to mixed aspect with fusion feature of culture, fusion and complex to show fusion of different component, multifunctional aspect from fusion of item and function etc. to explore its characteristic. And correlation between the characteristic and molding characteristic of knit was analyzed. To this end, works fit to fusion of this study among weft knit shown on domestic and foreign collections for 2005 S/S∼ 2013 F/W were selected. Based on this, molding characteristic was investigated, frequency distribution was examined, and correlation was analyzed. As a result, the distribution is mixed aspect 47.6% as 469, fusion and complex 41.0% as 404, and multifunctional aspect 11.4% as 112.

한국 니트 패션의 미적 특성에 관한 연구

최해주(Hae-Joo Choi) 한국의상디자인학회 2008 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.10 No.3