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명혜진,김양수,김정혜 한국니트디자인학회 2014 패션과 니트 Vol.12 No.3
This study puts its purpose on highlighting the importance of clothing as a main path between humans and culture as well as the wears' consciousness reflected on the clothing by comparatively analyzing the timely and sociocultural modes of Korean ‘Modern Girl’ and American ‘Flapper’ in 1920s~1930s. As ways to study, it examined contemporariness of modernism and art deco that were timely background of Modern Girl and Flapper, the productions of timely modes. By analyzing timely situation of the two areas in addition to that, urban culture and change of clothing motivation were compared to the situation of Joseon. By comparative analysis on the content and forms of fashion images appeared in mass media, this study also extracted the difference and meaning of timely modes in the change of culture, discernment and social role. Modern Girl of Joseon implied duplicated nationality-combined identity as they experienced social reform through modernism while they had been in agricultural society. Therefore, it presented modernized traditional modes, while American Flapper displayed new functional simplicity while escaping from the traditional Gibson girl style. In poor Joseon that had not been urbanized yet and were lack of jobs for women in capitalism market, Modern Girl was criticized as a class to pursue trends and extravagances. In highly-urbanized and industrialized America on the other hand, the clothes of Flapper got extended as a style making a value of popular products. It came to pursue a new formativeness according to timely request of modernism that is interconnected with mass production and mass consumption along with urbanization. This led timely modes as an international one based on mechanical civilization named modernism, and resulted in generalizing the construction and fashion of Seoul and New York in vertical aesthetic value.