온주밀감 미숙과의 열수추출물을 이용한 견직물의 염색 특성과 항미생물성

이은주,Yi, Eunjou 한국섬유공학회 2017 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.54 No.1

This study was aimed at optimizing the dyeing conditions of silk fabrics by using a hot-water extract from an unripe Citrus unshiu, and investigating the fastness and various microbial activities of the dyed fabrics depending on their surface hue/tone. The citrus extract powder was characterized by FT-IR and was employed to dye silk fabric at various conditions including temperature, duration, pHs, dye concentration, and mordanting. Finally, the dyed fabrics were evaluated for fastness and antimicrobial activity by bacterial reduction rate depending on the surface hue and tone of the dyed fabric. The citrus extract was identified as containing nobiletin, a type of flavonoid. The fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake at a dyeing temperature of $80^{\circ}C$, dyeing duration of 60 min, and dye concentration of 600% owf. The dye uptake was found to be superior when the dye process was conducted at a pH of 3 and when post-mordanted with iron. The color gamut derived from dyeing with the citrus showed a total of five different tones including light grayish, grayish, dull, soft, and dark grayish with a single hue of yellow. Some of dyed fabrics showed good fastness in terms of dry-cleaning, perspiration, and rubbing. Antimicrobial activity was found to be excellent at all dye concentrations against Staphylococcus aureus.

Color Sensibility of Naturally Dyed Silk Fabrics in Blue and Green

이은주,Yi, Eunjou The Korean Fiber Society 2016 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.53 No.2

The purpose of this study was to determine color sensibility factors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green and to identify the relationship between objective colorimetric properties and subjective color sensibility. A silk fabric was directly colored with natural dye powder via both single and sequential dyeing in order to impart various bluish or greenish hues to it. The dyed fabric samples were measured in terms of Munsell notation including H, V, and C; CIE colorimetric properties such as $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and $C^*$; and PCCS tones. Fashion specialists including designers, researchers, and graduate students were asked to evaluate the dyed silk fabrics for subjective color sensibility terms using semantic differential scales. As a result, four color sensibility factors were obtained: Active, Delicate, Comfort/Gentle, and Urban. Color lightness such as CIE $L^*$ and Munsell V had the most influence on the factor Delicate, whereas color saturation including CIE $C^*$ and Munsell C had the most influence on the factor Active. The tones seemed to affect the factor Delicate more than any other objective color variables and in such detail that tones such as lt and ltg reinforced the feeling of the factor; the factors Comfort/Gentle and Urban were closely affected by greenish and bluish shades, respectively. The relations were also compared with the results of previous studies investigating other shades such as yellow and red. Finally, quantified prediction models by multiple regression were established for each color sensibility factor in order to help natural dyeing industries design highly emotional colors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green.

감 분말 염색 면직물의 색채감성요인

이은주,Yi, Eunjou 한국섬유공학회 2014 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.51 No.6

This study was aimed at identifying the color sensibility factors of cotton fabrics dyed with immature persimmon powder. The relationships of these factors with objective color characteristics, including tone, CIE color attributes, and mordanting, were determined and their prediction models, using the related objective parameters, were established. Fourteen dyed specimens, in a range of shades, were prepared as stimulus by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon powder; some specimens were also subjected to iron-mordanting. Thirty-nine female college students evaluated these specimens based on 17 color image terms, using IRI color image scales. As a result, four color sensibility factors viz. clearness, vivid & dynamic, dignity, and natural & warmth were selected. Clearness, vivid & dynamic, and natural & warmth were more strongly perceived in non-mordanted fabric specimens. Pale increased the feeling of clearness while soft contributed to a stronger perception of natural & warmth. CIE $L^*$ was positively related with clearness while $b^*$ was a positive explainer for natural & warmth. All significant prediction models for the color sensibility factors were suggested for use in persimmon dyeing for textile and fashion products.

시각과 촉각에 의한 직물 질감의 차이와 역학적 성질의 영향 비교

이은주(Eunjou Yi),이안례(An Rye Lee),양영애(Young-Ae Yang) 한국생활과학회 2009 한국생활과학회 학술대회 Vol.2009 No.하계

왕벚나무 꽃잎 추출물에 대한 견직물의 염색성과 색채특성

이은주(Eunjou Yi),유은숙(Eun Sook Yoo),한충훈(Chung Hun Han),이안례(An Rye Lee) 한국염색가공학회 2010 韓國染色加工學會誌 Vol.22 No.3

The Effects of Mordanting, PCCS Tones, and Physical Colorimetric Properties on Color Sensation Differences of Natural Persimmon-Dyed Fabrics by Light Sources

Eunjou Yi(이은주) 대한인간공학회 2022 대한인간공학회 학술대회논문집 Vol.2022 No.4

온주밀감 정유가 함유된 마이크로캡슐로 처리한 면 편성물의 향기 특성 -전자코 분석과 주관적 감각과의 관계를 중심으로-

노봉수,이은주,Noh, Bongsoo,Sarmandakh, Badmaanyambuu,Yi, Eunjou 한국섬유공학회 2016 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.53 No.3

This study was aimed at investigating the fragrance pattern of cotton knit treated with microcapsules containing Citrus Unshiu oil with respect to washing and rubbing frequencies, using electronic noise and relating it to human subjective sensation. From the results, we discovered that the microcapsule-treated knit with one and two repetitions of washing exhibited the strongest fragrance and the untreated knit exhibited fragrance intensity similar to that of a knit that had undergone 15 repetitions of washing. However, this pattern was not found to be significantly related to subjective sensation. When cotton knits subjected to repeated rubbings were tested using electronic nose analysis, the citrus fragrance appeared to strengthen till 10 repetitions of rubbing, and thereafter, it tended to weaken. This pattern was similar to that of human subjective sensations described as fragrant, sweet, pleasant, and strong. In particular, the first few scores of the discriminant function obtained using the electronic nose were revealed to be highly correlated with the subjective sensation descriptor fragrant. These results imply that the electronic nose could aid in the analysis of the fragrance of oil microcapsule-loaded fabrics by predicting subjective sensation and that 10 repetitions by a crockmeter could be used to maximize the fragrance intensity of capsule-treated fabric.

직물 색채와 역학적 성질이 시질감에 미치는 영향 - 디지털 프린팅을 중심으로 -

이안례,이은주,Lee, An Rye,Yi, Eunjou The Korean Fiber Society 2015 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.52 No.1

The objective of this study was to investigate whether color variables, such as CIE values and hue/tone categories, and mechanical properties influence the visual texture of fabric, and to establish prediction models for the visual texture based on both mechanical properties and color variables. A digital textile printing system was used to color six different silk and cotton fabrics. The chromatic shade value for each color was identified using a $3{\times}3$ matrix of hue (red, yellow, and green) or tone (pale, vivid, and grayish), with gray as the neutral value. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured using a Kawabata Evaluation System. Subjective perception of visual texture by human evaluators was obtained using modified magnitude estimation. The mechanical properties of the fabric samples were found to be the primary influence on variations in sensory descriptors of the visual texture. Furthermore, results showed that, while the visual texture was strongly dependent on the tones, chromatic shade, and gray, it was hardly affected by hue. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for visual texture based on both mechanical properties and color variables.

펠트의 물리적 성질이 촉각적 감각과 감성에 미치는 영향

바드마얌보 사르만다히,이은주,Sarmandakh, Badmaanyambuu,Yi, Eunjou 한국섬유공학회 2015 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.52 No.1

In order to investigate the relationship between physical properties and tactile sensation/sensibility factors of felt, in this study we evaluated the physical properties (including structural fiber characteristics, heat transfer features, and mechanical parameters) of different felts, together with the corresponding tactile sensation/sensibility factors. A total of 11 felt specimens were prepared from a variety of natural animal fibers such as Angora goats hair, Mongolian young lambs wool, Australian Merino wool, and Australian Corriedale wool, and by selecting some commercial fashion felts containing polyester fibers. Following tactile subjective evaluation using magnitude line scales, Rough, Puff, and Hard were extracted as tactile sensation factors, whereas Elegant and Wild were identified as tactile sensibility factors. Angora goats hair and Merino wool felts were rated as the most negative for Rough and as the most positive for Puff and Elegant among all felts. They were also classified as the most negative felts for Hard, together with Corriedale wool felt. As to tactile sensibility factors, Wild was the most strongly perceived in touching Mongolian young lamb felt. The study revealed that all tactile sensation and sensibility factors of felts are affected by their physical properties. In particular, Rough, Puff, and Wild, which are strongly related to one another, were mainly influenced by structural fiber characteristics such as fiber diameter and heat transfer features, while Hard and Elegant were mostly affected by the mechanical properties.

제주 천연자원의 염색을 활용한 패션 색채기획

안수민 ( Su-min Ahn ),이은주 ( Eunjou Yi ) 한국감성과학회 2016 감성과학 Vol.19 No.2

본 연구에서는 현대 패션 산업에서 활용하는 색채 기획 프로세스에 기반하여 제주의 대표적인 천연 자원 추출물로 면직물을 염색하고 물리적 색채와 트렌드 색채감성을 분석하여 2016S/S 시즌을 목표로 천연염색 유ㆍ아동복 디자인을 위한 감성 색채 테마를 제안하고자 하였다. 제주의 전통 염색 자원인 풋감과 주요 농산물인 감귤, 해양식물인 감태를 각각 분말염료로 제조하고 단일 염색과 복합염색을 병행하여 다양한 색채를 면직물에 구현하고, 2016S/S 유행색을 중심으로 Pantone TPX에 매칭하여 시즌 유행색의 감성 이미지를 고려하여 천연염색 유ㆍ아동복 디자인 기획에 활용할 수 있는 감성 색채 테마를 제안하였다. 연구 결과로서 제주 천연자원을 이용한 직물 염색 색채는 Purple Blue에서Green Yellow에 이르는 색상과 pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, dull의 톤을 나타내었다. 이 중에서 38개의 천연염색 색채가 인터컬러와 한국 CFT에서 제안한 2016S/S 유행색의 일부를 포함한 23종의 Pantone TPX에 매칭되었다. 매칭된 Pantone 색채들을 활용하여 세 가지 컬러웨이를 설정하고 각 컬러웨이의 색채들에 대한 주관적 감성 평가를 실시하여 컬러웨이 그룹별로 차별화되는 색채 감성을 추출하였다. 이 결과를 기반으로 최종적으로 2016S/S 유행색테마에서 가지는 감성 이미지와 염색에 활용된 제주 천연자원의 고유 특성 및 유ㆍ아동복에의 적합성을 고려하여‘Serenity’와 ‘Juicy’, ‘Fancy’의 세 가지 색채 감성 테마를 제안하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 유행색의 감성에 기반한색채 기획 프로세스가 확립되지 않은 천연염색 산업에서 활용할 수 있는 색채기획 가이드 라인을 제공함과 동시에, 제주의 지역 특화 천연염색 색채에서 도출될 수 있는 색채감성 테마를 제안하였다는 데에 의의가 있다. This study was aimed to characterize the color of cotton fabric dyed with three different natural resources such as persimmon, citrus, and brown algae and to propose new trend color themes for fashion color planning for newborn and toddler wear. A variety of color shades by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon, citrus, and brown algae respectively was obtained and each color was also determined if it could be matched with one of Pantone TPX considering authorized color trends for 2016 Spring/Summer. Finally a group of new trend color theme for 2016S/S newborn and toddler wear were proposed for naturally dyed cotton fabric. As results, the three natural dyeing resources gave color gamut with hue ranging from Purple Blue to Green Yellow and with tones including pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, and dull by their single and compound dyeing. A total of 23 colors matched to Pantone TPX were considered for the fashion color planning by natural dyeing. The selected natural colors were grouped as three different color ways and thereafter the color ways were differentiated in terms of representative color sensibility by using subjective evaluation. Finally three characterized color themes were proposed as ‘Serenity’, ‘Juicy’, and ‘Fancy’, each of which has tried to express differentiated feeling of each natural resources for dyeing, to follow up to global color trends, and to contribute to newborn and toddler wear’s own requirements and marketability. These results suggest that natural dyeing colors could be applied into fashion color planning in current fashion industries in order to produce more sensible and emotional design of fashion goods using naturaldyeing.