2015년도 이후 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 오버사이즈 룩의 의복구성 특성 분석

김경아,김경아 복식문화학회 2019 服飾文化硏究 Vol.27 No.5

Oversized fashion is again in the spotlight due to the influence of retro fashion. This has created new fashion trends with methods different from those of the past. This analysis examines recent trends by sorting these looks according to new and different methods of judging their appearance. A new categorization of the oversized look and its configurations has been created, one which separates “big” looks, partial changes, and layered looks. This research was based on historical review and previous studies. Three thousand one hundred thirty-six photos of oversized looks that have appeared in collections over the past five years were gathered, and their appearance was categorized according to type. The categorization results showed that big looks (55.1%) were most prevalent, followed by partial alterations (36.35%), and layered looks (8.45%). In comparison to prior oversized clothing production, new permutations of the “Big” look expanded the silhouettes of torso, shoulders, neckline and collar. Partial changes have expanded from the broadened shoulders of the 1980s. Today these styles expand the shoulders and armholes vertically or horizontally, which dramatically exaggerates the sleeves and collar. The layered look no longer simply features overlapping layers but takes the form of over-layering through cuts and insertions. Through such analysis it is clear that modern oversized looks break away from the simple expanded forms and production methods of the past. They now attempt to realize an exaggerated beauty of form regarding each clothing component and also maximize decorative effects through innovative drafting or sewing methods.

The Effect of Body Image and Interest in Looks Perceived by Female College Students on the Empathy of Overcoming Disaster

Minkyoung Shin,Jungsoon Choi,Munkhtsetseg Luvsan J-INSTITUTE 2022 International Journal of Human & Disaster Vol.7 No.1

Purpose: In the present time, the interest in looks has rapidly increased regardless of gender and age, and we are living through the age of priority over looks. An individual s looks is not merely a simple caring, but has also become a social competitiveness, which increases the interest in looks and enhances the body image and self-esteem. The purpose of this study is to examine and understand the effect of the body image and the interest in looks perceived by female college students on the empathy of overcoming disaster targeting the female college students. Method: As for the research method, a questionnaire was used targeting female college students in Seoul, Gyeonggi, Incheon, and other areas. The questionnaire was consisted of body image, interest in looks, and interpersonal variables, while the frequency analysis was performed to examine the general characteristics of the re-search subjects, and the multiple regression analysis was performed to examine the interpersonal relationship between the body image and the interest in looks. Results: First, in terms of the effect of the female college student s body image on the empathy of overcoming disaster, it turned out that among the body images, the interest in looks turned out to have an effect on cognitive empathy, emotional empathy, and attitude empathy, and among the body images, the body satisfaction turned out to have effect on the emotional empathy and attitude empathy. Second, in terms of the effect of the female college student s body image on the empathy of overcoming disaster, aesthetic orientation turned to have effect on the cognitive empathy, emotional empathy, and the attitude empathy among the interest in looks, and self-expression among the interest in looks turned out to affect the emotional empathy only. Conclusion: Given the current ‘COVID-19’ crisis, many problems have ravaged the world, and as disasters pro-long, the interest in overcoming disasters has also grown. At the same time, the interest in looks is rapidly increasing due to the priority over looks. Hence, this study has examined the effect of body image and interest in looks perceived by the female college students on the empathy of overcoming disaster, and recognizes the importance of empathy for the interest in looks, and hence, more research would be required.

오뜨꾸뛰르 이브닝드레스 섹시 룩의 패션이미지와 디자인 특성 분석

팽효춘(Xiao Chun Peng),유영선(Young Sun Yoo) 한국복식학회 2015 服飾 Vol.65 No.3

The purpose of this study is to investigate the ``sexy look`` of the Paris Haute Couture evening dresses of the past 10 years from 2005 to 2014. The results are as follows: According to the occurrence frequency analysis of the fashion images of sexy look evening dress, the type of sexy look that appeared the most is the romantic sexy look, followed by erotic sexy look, ethnic sexy look, minimal sexy look and avant-garde sexy, respectively. According to the design component-specific analysis of evening dress for each Haute Couture house, 7 Haute Couture houses have used H-line silhouette over the past 10 years, each H-line silhouette being different. In terms of material, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior have shown a trend of favoring see-through material, Gaultier and Armani showed a lot to combine different materials. In terms of color, Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Armani have shown a general trend in the last 10 years to express sexy look by using attractive and mystical black tones, Elie Saab has shown skin color a lot by using brown family colors and Givenchy has used white family colors. According to the design components analysis for each sexy look fashion image, the H-line silhouette showed the most frequency to represent sexy looks. In terms of material, avant-garde sexy look, ethnic sexy look and minimal sexy look showed a lot to combine different materials to express sexy looks, but erotic sexy look and romantic sexy look are characterized by using thin see-through material. As for the color, black series has been most represented in the last 10 years for the Haute Couture evening dress sexy look.

현대패션에 나타난 밀리터리룩 연구 및 디자인 개발

이서희 한국일러스아트학회 2011 조형미디어학 Vol.14 No.2

In fashion, military look mainly appeared in World War 1 & 2, early 1970s and late 1996. As Gulf War occurred in the end of the 20th century, the population of military look has been continued as the factor of popular fashion appearing every season. The purpose of this study is to analyze design characteristics by considering the theory of military look and develop the design proper for the modern women in their twenties by applying them. For study method, the researcher considered concept and change of military look theoretically on the basis of literature data, analyzed design characteristic by classifying photo data and articles and suggested modern, practical military look design on the basis of the analysis. Through theoretical background, it was possible to find out generation and change process of military look. The result of analyzing design trend of military look from 1996 to 2011 revealed that military look also changes depending on the trend of each age. The study results are as follows. First, military look, which is one of various trends, becomes a design icon that is essential in the study of modern dress because function and movement of military uniform are suitable for comfortable, free image pursued by modern fashion. Second, it is possible to unfold various designs by applying military look factors such as detail, trimming and color. Third, it is possible to invent various new designs by using decoration factors of military look. In modern fashion, military look has been reinterpreted as a unique design every season as it has been a main item of world collection designers according to the flow of population. 패션에서 밀리터리룩은 1,2차 세계대전과 1970년대 초반, 1996년 하반기에 집중적으로 나타났으며 20세기말 걸프전 발발과 함께 끊이지 않는 전쟁의 기운의 영향으로 밀리터리룩의 유행은 매 계절 나타나는 유행패션의 요소로 지속되고 있다. 본 연구의 목적은 밀리터리룩에 대한 이론적 고찰 후 디자인적 특징을 분석하여, 이를 응용하여 20대 현대여성에게 어울리는 디자인 개발에 있다. 연구방법은 밀리터리룩의 개념과 변천을 참고문헌 자료를 토대로 이론적 고찰을 하였으며, 사진자료와 기사를 분류 분석하여 디자인특징을 분석하여 이를 토대로 현대 감각에 맞고 실용적인 밀리터리룩 디자인을 제시하였다. 이론적 배경을 통해 밀리터리룩의 발생과 변천과정을 살펴보았으며, 1996년부터 2011년 밀리터리룩의 디자인 경향을 분석한 결과 시대마다 변하는 트렌드에 맞추어 밀리터리룩도 변화됨을 알 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 첫째, 다양한 트렌드가운데 하나인 밀리터리룩이 현대 복식연구에서 빼놓을 수 없는 디자인의 한 아이콘(icon)이 된 것은 군복의 기능성 과 활동성 이 현대패션이 추구하는 편안하고 자유로운 이미지와 적합하기 때문이다. 둘째, 밀리터리룩 요소인 디테일, 트리밍, 색채적 요소를 도입하여 다양한 디자인을 전개 시킬 수 있다. 세째, 밀리터리룩의 장식적 요소들을 활용하면 다양한 새로운 디자인 발상이 가능하다. 현대 패션에 있어서 밀리터리룩은 유행의 흐름과 더불어 세계 컬렉션 디자이너들의 주 아이템으로 등장하여 매 시즌마다 그들 나름대로의 독특한 디자인으로 재해석되고 있다.

게임의 규칙과 거울의 의미

김경식(Kyeong Sik Kim) 한국영미어문학회 2012 영미어문학 Vol.- No.102

This paper tries to explain how Lewis Carroll expresses objectification and reflection through the logic of looking glass and the game of chess in Through the Looking-Glass. The text borrows the structure and image of the traditional looking-glass books but inverts the theme and contents of the traditional books. Although Alice maintains her didactic and admonishing perspective into the looking-glass land, the imaginative literatures and their characters in the book invert the didactic and admonishing perspective. The plot of the book is framed by a form of culture contact between the culture of a Victorian girl and that of the looking-glass land. The looking glass functions as perspective of objectification and reflection and provides the possibility of objectification and reflection for the biased and unilateral perspective of Victorian culture and human society. Railway scene shows that Victorian life was transformed by mechanization, commodification and uniformity. Garden of live flower scene shows that live flowers evaluate Alice’s face, feature and color. The scene inverts the fact that humans always take the position that they can evaluate, appraise and classify all other living things to their taste and convenience. Eventually Lewis Carroll portraits himself through White Knight as impractical and purely theoretical. He represents himself as objectified and parodied through the device of the looking-glass. The game of chess also involves opponent checkers looking opposite direction occupying the half of the chessboard. The game of chess reflects the structure of the looking-glass, too. The last chapter “which dreamed it?” asks an important question: whether Alice dreamed all or she just belonged to Red King’s dream. Although the narrator leaves this as a question in Alice’s mind and readers’ at the end, the question shows the human existential quest through the logic of the looking glass.

1980년 이후 자연주의 패션에 관한 연구- Vogue지 내용분석을 중심으로 -

은숙 ( Sook Eun ),박재옥 ( Jae Ok Park ) 복식문화학회 2011 服飾文化硏究 Vol.19 No.6

This study investigates and compares the changes of naturalism in fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of naturalism in fashion. Data were collected from 59 volumes of the "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 440 words and these were condensed into three periods according to decade(1980~1989, 1990~1999, and 2000~2009). The selected words were classified into four sub-themes according to the previous research definitions such as primitive look, natural look, eco look and handcrafted look. The results are as follows. First, naturalism of fashion was highly presented in the 1980s but the percentages of naturalism in three decades were all more or less similar. Especially, natural look appeared more in the 1980s and eco look was in the 1990s, while natural look, eco look and handcrafted look were found all together in the 2000s. Second, naturalism of fashion showed higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1990s, while S/S seasons in the 1990s and 2000s. In particular, natural look was presented more at S/S seasons. The sub-themes coexistence were presented in the 24 seasons out of 59 seasons and showed more variously in the 2000s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of naturalism in fashion demonstrated the differences by decade.

빅데이터를 활용한 올드머니룩 트렌드 분석 - 블로그에 게시된 2023 F/W 트렌드를 중심으로 -

진현정 한국패션디자인학회 2024 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.24 No.1

본 연구는 2023 가을/겨울 핵심 트렌드인 올드머니룩 관련 블로그 게시글을 텍스트마이닝으로 고찰하여소재, 컬러, 아이템 측면에서 특징을 파악하고, 주제 및 단어의 연관성을 분석하여 대중이 인식하는 올드머니룩 특징과 개인 블로그에 게시된 트렌드 관련 글의 특징을 확인하고자 하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 올드머니룩트렌드를 이해하기 위한 자료로 사용될 수 있고, 개인 블로그에 게시된 트렌드 관련 글의 특징을 파악하여향후 트렌드 관련 연구에 시사점을 제공해 줄 수 있을 것이다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 명사를 추출하여 빈도 분석을 실시한 결과, 컬러의 빈도가 가장 높았고, 코디, 패션, 제품, 브랜드, 니트, 스타일, 가을, 사이즈, 가격 순으로 나타났다. 컬러 관련 단어는 블랙, 화이트, 베이지, 그레이, 브라운, 핑크 순으로 빈도가 높았다. 의복 아이템 관련 단어는 니트, 재킷, 셔츠, 카디건, 원피스 순으로 나타나 니트의 빈도가 상대적으로 높았다. 소재 관련 단어는 데님, 캐시미어, 가죽, 트위드 순으로 비교적 고가 소재인 캐시미어, 가죽이 올드머니룩의 주요 소재로 나타났다. 둘째, 올드머니룩 관련 주제는 올드머니룩 스타일링, 올드머니룩 정의, 컬러, 아이템/소재, 일상, 홍보/판매로 구분할 수 있었다. 셋째, 파이 계수 네트워크를 시각화한 결과, 에르메스, 디올, 랄프 로렌, 폴로, 구찌, 셀린느, 막스마라가 동일 군집을 형성하여 브랜드 간 상관관계가 높으며, 올드머니룩과 관련 있는 브랜드로 나타났다. 여성의류, 하객룩, 오피스룩이 동일 군집을 형성하여 올드머니룩 스타일여성복은 하객룩과 오피스룩으로 활용될 가능성이 높은 것으로 사료된다. The purpose of this study is to examine blog posts related to the old money look, a key trend for fall/winter 2023, through text mining to identify its characteristics in terms of material, color, and item, and to analyze topics and words to determine the public perception of old money. The results of this study can be used as data to understand the old money look trend, and can provide implications for future trend-related research by identifying the characteristics of trend-related articles posted on personal blogs. The research results are as follows: First, as a result of extracting nouns and performing a frequency analysis, color was the most frequent, followed by coordination, fashion, product, brand, knit, style, fall, size, and price. The frequency of color-related words followed this order: black, white, beige, gray, brown, and pink, with black being the most common. Words related to clothing items appeared in the order of knit, jacket, shirt, cardigan, and dress. Material-related words appeared in the order of denim, cashmere, leather, and tweed. Expensive materials such as cashmere and leather appeared as materials related to the old money look. Second, topics related to the old money look could be divided into general definitions of the old money look, styling methods, colors, materials, items, daily life, and articles for publicity/sales purposes. Third, as a result of visualizing the phi coefficient network, brands such as Hermes, Dior, Ralph Lauren, Polo, Gucci, Celine, and Max Mara were highly related to the old money look, and the correlation between brands was high. Since women's clothing, wedding guest look, and office look are divided into the same group, it is believed that women's clothing in the old money look style is likely to be used as wedding guest look and office look.

레이디라이크룩 재킷 디자인 개발 - 대표 아이콘의 스타일을 중심으로 -

김양수,문명옥,함연자 한국패션디자인학회 2019 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.19 No.4

현대 패션의 트렌드를 접목하여 새로운 모습으로 재창조되며 지속적으로 나타나고 있는 레이디라이크룩 은 여성 패션에서 중요한 의미를 갖는다. 이에 본 연구는 레이디라이크룩을 대표하는 패션 아이콘의 스타일 을 중심으로 현대 패션 사례에 나타난 디자인의 연속성과 변화의 양상을 파악하고 활용도가 높은 재킷을 중심으로 실제 작품 제작을 시도함으로써 트렌드에 맞는 레이디라이크룩 디자인의 실현 방안을 제안하고자 했다. 연구 방법은 문헌 연구 및 실증 연구와 작품 제작 연구를 통해 이루어졌다. 이론적 고찰을 통해 레이디 라이크룩의 개념과 레이디라이크룩 재킷의 특징, 레이디라이크룩의 대표 아이콘을 살펴보고 사례 분석을 통 해 현대 패션에 나타난 레이디라이크룩 재킷에 지속적으로 나타나는 특징과 시대에 따른 변화 요인을 파악 했다. 이를 바탕으로 현대 트렌드에 맞게 재해석한 레이디라이크룩 재킷 작품을 디자인하고 제작했다. 연구 결과, 레이디라이크룩의 대표 아이콘인 그레이스 켈리, 오드리 헵번, 그리고 재클린 케네디의 스타일과 이미 지를 참조하여 레이디라이크룩을 켈리 스타일, 헵번 스타일, 그리고 재키 스타일로 구분했다. 켈리 스타일 재킷은 고상함과 섹슈얼 엘레강스 이미지를, 재키 스타일 재킷은 소녀스럽고 청순한 이미지를, 헵번 스타일 재킷은 격식을 갖춘 미니멀한 이미지를 각각 나타냈다. 현대 패션에서 각각의 스타일은 전통적 이미지를 유 지하고 실루엣과 기본적인 구성 요소의 적용 방식에서 연속성을 나타냈지만, 시대의 트렌드에 맞는 디테일의 표현으로 새롭게 표현되고 있었다. 이러한 특성을 반영하여 현대적 감각의 레이디라이크룩 재킷을 3점 디자 인하고 제작했다. 본 연구에서 시대를 관통하는 레이디라이크룩을 중심으로 연속성을 유지하면서 트렌드에 맞게 변화되는 양상을 파악함으로써 패션에 대한 통찰력 제고와 클래식 패션에 관한 디자인 방향이 제안되 었으리라 기대하며, 다른 클래식 룩에 대한 연구로 확장되길 기대한다. “Ladylike Look” has important meaning in women’s fashion because it is reinterpreted all the time. The goal of this study is to identify the concept of ladylike look, analyze the characteristics of ladylike look jackets based on fashion icons, and present a future reference for ladylike look fashion by producing ladylike look jackets that correspond with the contemporary trends. This study is performed by theoretical study, case study and production of design work. Through theoretical study, the concept and types of ladylike look are considered based on fashion icons of 50s ladylike look. Many cases of ladylike look jackets in modern fashion collections are selected and their characteristics are analyzed according the types. After that, three types of ladylike look jackets are designed and produced reflecting a trend. Ladylike look Jackets can be categorized into three types: Kelly style, Hepburn style, and Jackie style. Kelly style is characterized by tailored jackets with H line silhouette in a sexual elegance image and traditional form. Hepburn style is characterized by fit & flare silhouette and cute details in an innocent and girlish image and young street mood. Jackie style is characterized by H line silhouette and minimalism in a formal image and adventurous spirit. In modern fashion, three different types of jacket designs are harmonizing the characteristics of typical ladylike look jackets with the contemporary fashion trends. Therefore three types of design works adopt trendy details based on classic ladylike look jacket design.

국내 시판 코르셋 룩의 패턴 및 구성 실태분석

정현정 ( Jung Hyun Jung ),나수임 ( Soo Im Rha ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2010 패션 비즈니스 Vol.14 No.5

This study aimed at examining the pattern and detailed formation of corset look which has established itself as a sort of fashion look as people began to wear underwear as part of outer garment. The study tried to present basic materials helpful for developing and creating the design and pattern of corset look. First, the collected corset look of each brand was copied and then developed. According to the result, corset look`s representative silhouette turned out to be hourglass silhouette that tightened up the waist with an emphasis on expressing the beauty of the body. However, unlike corsets of the past, corsets today are being created with focus on the design rather than using lots of incision lines. Second, The bust girth of corset look items turned out to have little function to compress and deform the body like the corset of the past that was far smaller than the body. In addition, the corset style that used the lines of corset alone as motive turned out to have the larger waist girth. Third, the dismantling of collected corset look showed that the materials and formation features of corset look have become simple and that the simplification of corset look has made the items of corset look everyday clothes which can be worn practically and universally.

인상교정을 위한 이미지 메이크업 연구

자윤진 ( Yun Jin Jang ),손영미 ( Young Mi Shon ) 한국패션디자인학회 2006 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.6 No.1

여성의 사회적 진출이 늘어감에 따라 그만큼 외모에 대한 관심과 함께 아름다움을 충족시키기 위한 노력은 계속되고 있으며 이미지를 중요하게 여기고 있는 현대사회에서 메이크업의 중요성은 점점 강조되고 있다. 얼굴 이미지는 사람을 대면할 때 중요한 단서로 제공되어 얼굴을 통한 일차적인 판단이 전체적인 이미지를 결정하는데 가장 큰 비중을 차지한다. 따라서 인상학의 범주 안에서, 타고난 인상을 좋은 인상으로 만들기 위해서는 적절한 메이크업을 이용하여 자신의 장점은 살리고 단점은 수정 보완함으로써 행운을 메이크업으로 보완하여 타고난 운세를 변화시킬 수 있다면 누구라도 관심을 갖지 않을 수 없을 것이다. 인상학에서는 인상이 본인의 노력여하에 따라 좋은 인상으로 변화할 수 있다고 한다. 그러므로 메이크업은 이를 도와 충실한 보조 역할을 할 수 있을 것이라 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 인상의 범위를 사람의 얼굴로 제한하고, 얼굴 부분 중에도 인상이 갖는 철학적이 방향보다는 주로 메이크업과 관련한 부분을 분석하였으며 이를 토대로 인상에 따른 이미지 메이크업 디자인을 연구하여 자신의 좋은 얼굴 인상을 찾는데 일조하고자 하다. 그러기 위해 먼저 이론적 고찰을 통하여 연구한 결과를 바탕으로 얼굴형의 5가지 사례의 실험모델을 선정하여 인상학적으로 좋지 않는 인상을 수정 메이크업을 통해 우호적이고 호감이 가는 좋은 인상으로 변화시켰다. 그 결과 수정·보완 메이크업을 통한 이미지 메이크업은 사람의 인상에서 여러 가지 중요한 단서가 되는 얼굴형의 단점을 보완·수정하면서도 얼굴 표정을 그대로 살릴 수 있는 자연스러운 메이크업이 부합 되었을 때 좋은 인상으로 바꿀 수 있었다. 또한 좋은 이미지는 살리고 나쁜 이미지는 개선하여 외형적인 아름다움에 심리적 상승효과가 부과 되었을 때 적극적이고 자신감 있는 모습으로 자기 발전을 추구할 수 있었다. Women are increasingly becoming concerned about their appearances as more women become more socially active. As such, women continue efforts to satisfy desire for beauty, and makeup is increasingly important and emphasized in the modern society that attaches importance to image. The facial image is an important presentation in face-to-face meetings, and the primary judgment of a person through how he looks crucially determines other people`s whole impression of another person. Thus within the scope of physiognomy, to enhance a facial look, appropriate makeup should be used to highlight a person`s individuality and supplement his shortcomings, thus turning a face into a face that brings good luck to the person. As such, if a person`s born image and facial look can be supplemented by makeup, the overall look can be mad more appealing and interesting. Physiognomy says that one`s facial look can be improved or worsened depending on one`s efforts, and makeup can definitely be a helpful tool. This research limited the scope of physiognomy to a person`s facial look, and focused the analysis on makeup rather than on the physiognomic and philosophical aspects. This research of corresponding image makeup designs according to various types of facial look seeks to help find facial appearance for a person. This research conducted theoretical explorations, selected five experimental face models, and applied corrective makeup to facial looks that are not considered good in terms of physiognomy, thus turning them into more amiable facial looks. Likewise, image makeup through corrective and complementary makeup can supplement and correct shortcomings in how someone`s face look, which is important in projecting an image to others, giving the face a natural good-impression look. The study also found that when a person`s good image is highlighted and the negative image is improved, it brings about psychological encouragement that makes one more confident about external beauty and become more positive, confident and self development-oriented.