연구논문(硏究論文) : 업사이클 제품 및 패션 디자인의 제작기법과 특성

이루미 ( Lu Mi Lee ),임은혁 ( Eun Hyuk Yim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2015 패션 비즈니스 Vol.19 No.4

패션 산업은 최근 유행주기의 가속화를 일으킨 패스트 패션이 트렌드로서, 소비자들로 하여금 옷을 버리는 속도를 빠르게 하여 의류 폐기물의 발생량을 증가시켰다. 이는 환경오염의 문제를 야기하게 되면서 지속가능한 미래의 해결방안으로 업사이클 디자인이 성행하게 된 계기가 되었고 활성화가 요구되고 있어 본 연구를 통하여 환경오염 문제의 해결 방안에 도움이 되고자 하였다. 본 연구는 업사이클 디자인의 사례 분석을 통한 업사이클 제품 디자인과 패션 디자인의 특성에 대해 살펴보았다. 수집된 업사 이클 디자인 사례들은 문헌과 인터넷 자료 등을 통하여 총 181건이 조사되었고, 이들은 제작 기법에 따라 5가지로 분류 되었다. 첫째는 Melting and Compressing 기법으로, 재료를 녹이거나 압축하여 새 제품으로 나타낸 것이다. 둘째는 Gathering and Combining 기법으로 서로 다른 재료들을 모으거나 결합하여 나타낸 것이다. 셋째는 Cutting and Dividing 기법으로 재료가 되는 제품들을 자르거나 분해하여 리디자인하여 나타낸 것이다. 넷째는 Mixing and Changing 기법으로 재료에 디자인적 요소만 부가하여 나타낸 것이고, 마지막 기법은 기타로 복합적인 요소를 나타낸 사례들로 분류하였다. 제작 기법에 따라 분류된 업사이클 디자인 사례들의 특징은 용도의 변경, 형태의 재구성, 시간의 흔적, 재료의 특이성 및 한계성, 지역자원의 재활용, 수공예기술로 분석되었다. 사례분석을 통하여 도출된 업사이클 디자인의 특징들은 시간성, 윤리성, 희소성이라는 3가지의 특성으로 대표될 수 있다. 시간성은 유행의 흐름을 따르지 않는 빈티지 패션으로 대표되며, 오래되어 낡아서 해진 부분에서 아름다움을 느끼는 낡음의 미학이 나타났다. 낡은 이미지를 나타내려 디자이너들은 의도적으로 구멍을 내거나 단을 푸는 등 해체의 방식을 사용하였지만 업사이클 패션 디자인은 자연적인 낡음의 미학을 나타낼 수 있다. 이러한 시간성은 패스트 패션에서 나타낼 수 없는 시간의 차이로 인하여 가치를 나타냈다. 윤리성은 지속가능한 미래를 위해 환경을 생각하고 인간의 권리를 보호하는 특성을 갖는다. 이는 환경보호와 공정무역으로 대표되는데, 공정거래를 통한 업사이클 패션 디자인은 버려지는 제품을 다시 씀으로서 폐기물의 발생량을 감소시켜 환경을 위하고 있다. 또한, 제작과정에서 장인들의 수공예 기술을 활용하고 있어서 공정한 디자인거래와 전통 기술의 계승이 가능하여 환경을 보호하고 인간을 위하는 업사이클 패션 디자인은 윤리적 가치를 나타냈다. 희소성은 업사이클 패션 디자인에서 재료 자체가 본래 제품으로 지내온 시간과 버려지지 않고 다시 쓰임으로서 세상에 하나밖에 없는 특징을 나타내고 있다. 또한, 디자이너들에 의해서 유일무이한 새로운 제품으로 탄생되어 하나의 디자인을 대량으로 제작하는 패스트 패션과 차별화 되는 부분으로 희소가치를 나타냈다. 이렇게 분석된 업사이클 디자인의 특성은 빠른 유행주기를 나타내는 패스트 패션에 역행하는 모습을 나타내며 모순적일 수 있다. 하지만 이는 기존 디자인과의 차별화를 나타내며 지속가능한 미래를 위한 새로운 접근방식을 제공하는데 의의가 있다. 날로 빨라지는 유행의 흐름 속에서 본 연구를 통해서 나타난 특성을 패션 디자인 산업에 접목함으로서 업사이클 디자인의 활성화가 이루어져 하나의 패션 문화로 자리 잡게 되길 기대한다. 또한 이 연구를 계기로 앞으로의 업사이클 디자인 연구를 함에 있어서 업사이클의 정확한 의미를 인식하고 또 다른 특성과 디자인 제품을 창조하는데 새로운 길을 제시 할 수 있는 부분에 도움이 될 것으로 사료된다. Acceleration of the fashion cycle has caused problems of environmental pollution because consumers made a lot of waste of clothes. To solve them, upcycle design has been uprised. This study researched the present condition through recent cases of upcycle design. The standard of collected cases is focused on used products which was already run out once and then has been recreated by being recreated with new design. Through this study, there is a purpose to provide solution of environmental pollutions and a right direction of upcycle fashion design. Collected cases are classified into five production methods. First method is Melting and Compressing, which it melts or compresses materials. Second method is Gathering and Combining, which it gathers or combines each different materials. Third method is Cutting and Dividing, which it cuts or divides products materials. Fourth method is Mixing and Changing, which it mixes materials, adds design elements, and changes of purpose. Final things are classified with multiplicatively used factors which are already divided.

연구논문(硏究論文) : 국내대학 패션분야 교육의 특성화를 위한 교육과정 개발 -패션비즈니스 교육을 중심으로-

정재은 ( Jae Eun Jung ),이주원 ( Choo Won Lee ),한연희 ( Yeon Hee Han ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2011 패션 비즈니스 Vol.15 No.1

In order to develop a new fashion business curriculum, this study attempts to evaluate fashion business curriculum in both domestic and foreign schools and to analyze their existing training programs. The results of this study shows that the analysis of domestic fashion business curriculum shows that ``in the field`` knowledge is in need for the new fashion education program where students can be more exposed to the industry environments especially in the area of markets, sales, distribution and management. Also, the analysis of fashion marketing curriculum of F.I.T and PARSONS school of design demonstrates their emphasis on practical as well as academic programs in marketing, distribution and merchandising. In addition, the research on sales person training program reflects that future sales persons will need stronger knowledge in customer analysis, product display and shop management. Based on these findings, this investigation proposes a revised second year fashion business undergraduate program. The academic program in this updated module will place heavier emphasis on such fields as marketing, distribution, product planning and sales management. Also recommended is that the second year students will be exposed to real-world experience by participating in various internships and workshops offered by major companies in the fashion field.

연구논문(硏究論文) : 건축적 패션 디자인의 구조적 전략

임은혁 ( Eun Hyuk Yim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2014 패션 비즈니스 Vol.18 No.1

건축과 패션은 몸을 감싸고 몸에 공간을 제공한다는 측면에서 공통점을 함유한다. 패션 디자이너와 건축가는 모두 아이디어를 채택하여 현실적인 요구 조건을 고려한 후 평면적인 재료를 사용하여 삼차원의 구조로 해석한다. 복식을 휴대 가능한 친밀한 건축으로 볼 때 패션 디자인은 건축과 비견될 수 있다. 나아가 복식과 건축은 상호의존적이며 밀접하면서도 생산적인 교류를 하고 있으며, 패션과 건축의 경계 해체는 두 장르의 관점을 종합하고 혼합하는 경향을 이끌고 있다. 패션과 건축은 각 분야에 관한 관습적 사고를 넘어서서 학제간의 새로운 연계를 구축하고 있다. 패션과 건축의 장르 간 상호작용이 풍부해짐에 따라, 건축가는 패션 디자인에 대한 경험을 건축의 영역에 적용하며 패션 디자이너는 꾸준히 독창적인 디자인을 위해 건축의 재료와 방법을 참고하고 있다. 이러한 상호작용은 하이브리드(hybrid)를 더욱 가속화하는데, 패션과 건축의 관계를 탐구하는 서적과 전시의 증가를 통해 패션과 건축의 상호작용에 대한 관심이 증폭됨을 알 수 있다. 본 연구에서 전통적인 패션 디자이너의 방식보다는 건축가의 전략을 택하는 건축적 패션 디자이너들의 디자인에 나타나는 조형적 특성을 이루는 구조적 전략을 분석한 결과, 유기적 기하학, 공학적 의복설계, 그리고 독립적 공간성의 세 가지로 나누어 고찰 되었다. 첫째, 유기적 기하학의 전략은 복식 구조를 단순한 기하학적 형태로 환원하는데, 인체해부상의 곡선으로부터 구별되는 기하학적 형태로 만들어진 복식 디자인은 몸 위에 걸쳐지면서 편평함을 잃고 섬세하고 흐르는 듯한 유기적인 형태로 변형된다. 여기서 평면적인 패턴 조각은 중력에 의해 늘어지거나 걸쳐짐으로써 완전히 다른 형태를 띠면서 몸을 둘러싸는 삼차원적인 형태로 변형된다. 둘째, 공학적 의복설계는 복식 구조와 볼륨을 탐구하고 구현하는데 서스펜션의 건축적 구조적 원리를 활용하는 디자인과, 규모가 점점 작아지는 방향으로 상세한 모양이 반복되어 비선형적 특성과 점진적 반복 작용이 나타나는 프랙탈 기하학의 조형으로 나누어 분석되었다. 마지막으로, 몸과 거리를 두고 삼차원적인 형태를 유지하는 독립적 공간성을 들 수 있는데, 이는 몸을 위한 단단한 구조를 구축하여 표면 밑의 내부 공간에서 움직이는 몸의 개념을 예시함으로써 건축과의 유사성을 추구한다. 인체 비례를 재분배하는 부피와 구조를 통해 조각적인 외관을 형성하는 독립적 공간성의 추구는 테일러링에 대한 훈련과 조각적 형태에 대한 이해로 가능하였다. 건축적 패션 디자이너들은 일반적인 의복 구성에서 중시되는 기준선이나 형태에서 벗어나 자유로운 상상력을 펼치게 된다. 건축적 패션 디자인에서는 절대적인 기능과 현실적인 접근성을 발견할 수 있다. 즉, 실제적인 복식 구조로부터 장식을 도출하며, 다양한 소재를 접고, 조각하고, 주름잡고, 매듭을 짓는 방법으로 구조와 장식을 겸한다. 이와 같이 건축적 패션 디자인은 복식 구성에 초점을 맞추어 혁신적인 복식 형태를 얻으므로 드레스메이킹의 테크닉이 창조의 과정의 중심이 된다. 즉, 디자인 미학과 드레스메이킹의 기술적 기교의 결합이 이루어진다. 건축적 패션 디자이너들은 드레스메이킹과 테일러링이라는 의복 제작의 두 주류를 교묘하게 상호작용하게 하는 방식으로 복식을 구성하므로 테일러링과 드레스메이킹을 혼합하고 그 경계를 모호하게 한다. 건축적 패션 디자이너들이 채택한 방식은 복식조형에 대한 그들의 태도를 드러낸다. 기본적인 형태를 개개인의 방식으로 의미화하여 건축가의 작업과정과 비슷한 방법으로 작업하는 디자이너들은 불필요한 장식을 피하고 자신만의 전형적 형태와의 연계를 유지하면서 구조 자체에 의미를 내포시킨다. 이들의 디자인은 몸을 감싸기보다는 몸 주위에 자리 잡도록 설계되는데, 장식적 패턴을 피하고, 단일한 색상으로 형태의 통일성을 강조하며, 명확한 형태로 인체해부의 특성을 감추기도 한다. 건축적 패션 디자이너들은 패션의 빠른 주기를 구성하는 변덕스러운 변화에 피상적으로 반응하기보다는 확고한 디자인 미학으로 패션 디자인에 창의적으로 기여해오고 있다. As the boundary between fashion and architecture is getting blurred, the interactions of the two fields are turning out abundant as well as essential. This study investigates the tectonic strategies in architectural fashion design as a novel aesthetic in the 21st century by combining literary survey and case analysis on architecture and contemporary fashion. The tectonic strategies in the works of architectural fashion designers were categorized as follows: organic geometry, technological garment construction, and independent space. Organic geometry transforms basic geometric shapes into subtle organic forms after being thrown on the body. Technological garment construction explores the garment structure and volume by applying the structural principle of suspension and fractal geometry. Independent space refers to maintaining the firm three-dimensionality of garment structure which keeps the distance from the body, assuming the similarity to architecture.

한국에 거주중인 한국, 중국, 베트남인의 한국의 국가이미지, 한류관심도, 한국미용서비스 만족도의 관계 및 차이에 대한 연구

안현경 ( Hyeon-kyeong An ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2018 패션 비즈니스 Vol.22 No.4

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relations and differences in Korean national image, Korean wave (Hanryu) interest, and Korean beauty service satisfaction of Korean, Chinese, and Vietnamese living in Korea and to lay the foundations for the export of various contents, especially beauty services, through the enhancement of Korea’s national image. The present study was conducted from 10^th June to 10^th August 2017, by presenting 523 questionnaires to Koreans living in Seoul and another metropolitan area, and to Chinese and Vietnamese students studying in different Korean language Institutes in Seoul and other areas’ universities. The basic questionnaire items were analyzed based on frequency analysis. The data on the national image, Korean wave interest, and Korean beauty service satisfaction were reduced by the factor analysis. The effects of each items were analyzed by regression. The differences in three factors were analyzed by ANOVA, and the differences were calculated by mean values. Consequently, it was observed that three factors are mutually affected each other. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a synergetic relationship between the individual factors. In addition, the individual items exhibited higher mean value in Vietnam, China, and Korea in a descending order. This indicates that Koreans are more likely to de-evaluate their cultures than others. Therefore, Koreans should be aware of the excellence of their culture and try to spread Korean culture and technology to the rest of the world with pride.

패션 라이브 커머스 유형별 소비자 인식 비교: 텍스트 마이닝 적용

곽하연,이규혜 한국패션비즈니스학회 2021 패션 비즈니스 Vol.25 No.3

This study concludes that communication based on interaction between broadcasting hosts and consumers is differently characterized by fashion live commerce types. Subcategories of the types of fashion live commerce were created and used in the analyses of domestic consumer awareness. Three subcategories were created: The department store type, Designer brand type, and Influencer host type. Comments representing consumers' awareness that appear immediately during real-time broadcasting were collected and used for the analyses. The frequency and TF-IDF-based top keywords were selected to analyze the semantic network and CONCOR, and the top keywords were analyzed by deriving the values of degree of centrality. The analysis identified that a group of product attributes and a group of live commerce offered value were common between the three types. As for the group characteristics classified by type, for the department store types, brand attributes, benefits, and values from pursuing the products were identified. For designer brand types, a group of viewers' responses and inquiries were identified. It is interpreted that the satisfaction value gained from hosts with product expertise has been clustered. Influencer host types have affirmed a group of external product values. A close relationship is formed and it is thought to have led a group of values to trust the external image of the product. This study carries significance in analyzing real-time comment data from consumers using fashion live commerce to empirically reveal the characteristics of each type.

현대(現代) 패션의 창조적(創造的) 디자인의 한계성(限界性)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -1990년대(年代) 후반(後半)부터 패션에 나타난 혼성(混成) 모방(模倣)을 중심(中心)으로-

신영선 ( Young Sun Shin ),김하정 ( Ha Jeong Kim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2001 패션 비즈니스 Vol.5 No.4

A lot of designers are adopting a mixed imitation as techniques of cretion because cultural boundary and structure of meaning in the era of post-modernism are collapsed and dissolved. I raise up a question mark to how can genuine and creative designers can be identified at this epoch when we are today familiar with the trend of informationalization, opening and globalization. Characterisitics of multi-culturalism and compromising blending are meshed with appearance of a theory of disorganization and consumer-driven economic activity of multi-national enterprises in the age of post capitalism. Accordingly it can be said that designers are leaning upon public and consumeroriented pattern rather than pursuing a creative cultural production. With mass media in rapid advancement and public culture in father dissemination, mass production and mass re-production became a natural cultural phenomenon strengthen ing its root. Creative designers somewhat slow and limitative in pace of adaption to rapid changing society amid such social backgrounds and flooded information are coming to dead-end of wall. A mixed imitation as techniques of creation is a result of borrowing, duplicating or re-combining of existing things because the mixed imitation is equivalent to borrowing, copying, compilation and recombination of well-known artworks, motive, diverse people`s cultural features, image, techniques and the likes. It is too delicate thing for one to definitely distinguish such cultural phenomenon from either one as creative work or a plagiarized work. Looking into the facts as they are, we should recognize the designers limitation in their creative works by means of the mixed imitation. thus we can have a view upon them from a criticizing standpoint against the designers creation and imitation. On the other hand, when we look at things how the mixed imitation appears in the fashion as a piece of culture, we can understand something of the contemporary designers. I try to find a significance in seeking out a method of approaching to creative fashion designers direction in future times.

한국(韓國) 직장남성(職場男性)의 기성화(旣成靴) 착용(着用)에 관(關)한 실태조사연구(實態調査硏究)

서추연 ( Chu Yeon Suh ),박순지 ( Soon Jee Park ),박은주 ( Eun Joo Park ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2001 패션 비즈니스 Vol.5 No.3

This study is to provide basic data for the development of domestic ready-made shoes industry by illustrating any problem in regards to the ready-made shoes for ordinary salary men through looking into its uses and gratifications. Subjects for this study were in between twenties and sixties by applying convenient random sampling method, which was done in January to February, 2001. The results were as follows: 1. General foot shape of subjects was that foot breadth was wide whereas instep height was average. In regards to the metamorphic parts of foot, the most metamorphic part was the fifth toe which could be occurred by disagreeable shoes to foot. 2. General salary men (69.5%) wear the formal shoes and their wearing time per day is over 10 hours (49%), which illustrates that more suitable and convenient functional shoes needs to be developed. 3. Almost of subjects tended to purchase ready-made shoes, and their concerns to be considered when to purchase ready-made shoes were its size and solidity. This finding suggests that the size specification of the ready-made shoes needs to be more specific in terms of its length as well as foot breadth. 4. The most unsatisfied point on the ready-made shoes was the foot breadth. According to the Crosstabulation analysis on the discomfort part and the foot breadth, there existed a significant correlation between the discomfort part and the foot breadth (p≤0.05). The above results make clear that overall salary men have complaints on the ready-made formal shoes in terms of its size and wearing comfort level. This suggests that the subdivision of the shoes size specification needs to be developed to improve the wearing comfort level.

패션스페셜리스트에 대(對)한 인식(認識)과 선호(選好)

김순분 ( Soon Boon Kim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2000 패션 비즈니스 Vol.4 No.4

The purpose of this study is to analyze the recognition of and the preference for a fashion specialist among students from 4-year and 2-year colleges in Taegu, in order to provide basic data for the effective management methods for the students. The objects of the survey were students in Taegu and Kyungbuk province; 287 students from 4-year colleges and 430 students from 2-year colleges, making the total of 717 students. The survey tool was a questionnaire, which consists of 7 general questions, 7 major curriculum related questions, and 6 questions regarding the information about a fashion specialist, and students career plan. It also contains 3-level Licurt type questionnaire on the recognition of and the preference for a fashion specialist from 20 professional fields. SPSS is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, x2-test and ANOVA. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The students` motivation in choosing their major as clothing and fashion design was out of independent career plan (86.7%). They were quite content with their major but were unsatisfactory with the current curriculum. 2. The subjects students thought necessary in preparing to be a fashion specialist were pattern, clothing construction (40.1%), clothing design (33.7%), and fashion marketing (18.9%). The answer to the question about the most important subject in the future was fashion marketing (57.2%). 3. What students consider most in choosing a job was aptitude and ability (70.8%). The most preferable clothing types that students want to work with after graduation were womens clothing (52.1%) and wedding dress (18.1%). 4. The means of getting information on a fashion specialist were magazines or broadcasting (72%) and school lectures (20.6%), and there was a significant deference among colleges. 5. Fashion coordinator was the highest recognized specialist (2.64) and the lowest was fashion converter (1.23) among other fashion specialists. 4-year college students had higher recognition in all areas (20 areas) than 2-year college students, and there was a significant deference among colleges in 20 areas. 6. Fashion designer received the highest preference (2.60) and fashion converter received the lowest (1.42). The fashion specialists that 4-year college students preferred were textile designer, fashion merchandiser, and fashion buyer, and those that 2-year college students preferred were fashion designer, fashion coordinator, fashion photographer, fashion model, and needleworker. There was a significant deference among colleges

패션 성적소구광고의 광고효과에 관한 연구

이승희 ( Seung Hee Lee ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2009 패션 비즈니스 Vol.13 No.4

The purpose of this study was to examine if there are the differences in advertising effects among three fashion sexual advertisements in terms of sexual appeal levels(high/medium/low). Through three pre-tests, three stimuli were chosen for this study. Three hundred female college students in Seoul participated in this study. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, ANOVA analysis, and reliability test were used. The results were as follows: First, from the factor analysis on advertising attitudes, three factors such as emotional, behavioral, and cognitive factors were produced. Second, there were significant differences in three sexual appeal levels among three advertising attitude factors. Third, there was also a significant difference in three sexual appeal levels on brand attitude. Finally, there was not a significant difference in the sexual appeal levels on purchase intention. Based on these results, this study would provide significant and efficient fashion advertising strategies to fashion advertising marketers and advertisement creators as implications.

한지의 특성을 이용한 웨딩드레스 소재 연구: 미니멀 웨딩드레스 제작을 중심으로

이지현,간호섭 한국패션비즈니스학회 2021 패션 비즈니스 Vol.25 No.1

In the modern fashion industry, the application of different materials along with an emotional design is emerging as an important factor stimulating consumer sentiment. This has led to the diversity of materials and continued active research on materials. Traditional Korean paper is expressed in various ways in the field of visual arts based on Korean sentiment and unique formative characteristics. Hanji costumes have been produced in various ways over the past 20 years utilizing Hanji's physical characteristics, showing unique surface texture and various techniques that differentiate them from existing fabrics, making it symbolic in expanding the area of fashion materials. In this work, various techniques were developed by utilizing the nonwoven characteristics and excellent variability of Hanji while considering visual images, focusing on the delicate decorations and materialistic representations of wedding dresses. In addition, minimal wedding dresses with unique textures were produced to realize fantasy ideas and show surface aesthetics, confirming as a fashion material different from that of existing wedding dresses. The direction of high value-added creation for the industrialization and globalization of Hanji wedding dresses was presented, and the usefulness and scalability of Hanji materials for practical and industrialization were identified in materials that expressed visual art. To in the fashion industry, which is changing in both the wedding industry and the global market, the development of materials with high sensitivity images and original and solid identity should continue.