스키타이 복식 연구 II - 페르시아 왕조 부조에 묘사된 스키타이인을 중심으로 -

장영수,Yi-Chang, Youngsoo 한국의상디자인학회 2016 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.18 No.1

The Saka were a large group of Eastern Iranian nomadic tribes on the Eurasian Steppe. The sythian figures shown on the Persian reliefs are esteemed as the only empirical material in the range of scythian costume researches. The study of the scythian culture is an important part in the research of possible connections of our cultural roots with this region. The investigation was initiated by the theory, that the korean people emigrated from the Eurasian region, so that their origin can linked to eurasian riding people. The aim of this study is to organize the scythian clothingform in a typological system. This results shall be used as the starting point for research investigating the origin of the korean clothingform. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and excavation data of German Archaeological Institute. Results of this study are as follows: The basic form of clothing shown on the Persian reliefs is the upperjacket with narrow sleeve and trousers. This basic form is divided into two different types. 1)The median tunicform upperjacket('Sarapis') and median narrow trousers('Anaxsirides'), which is bound with its end shoes. 2)The Scythian 'Cutaway' upperjacket that is cut from the front in the middle to the knee with the diagonal lines and relatively wide trousers. They wore high pointed hats with flaps over ears and the nape of the neck. The first median type is dated from the $6^{th}$ century BC. and the second type can be found on reliefs from the $5^{th}$ century BC. Reliefs. In the meantime appeared a mixed form, namely scythian Jacket and median trousers. From this analysis could be observed that scythian clothingform has changed by median type to the scythian type. The Scythians shown on the Persian reliefs are divided into three group according to the regions where they lived: Saka-paradraya, Saka-tigraxauda, Saka-haumavarga. Clothingstype is different depending on the group. The clothesform is also used as a good parameter to distinguish scythian groups.

연구논문 : 스키타이 의복에 대한 연구 1 - 흑해 북쪽 지역 스키타이인을 중심으로 -

장영수 ( Youngsoo Yi Chang ) 한국의류산업학회 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.2

The purpose of this study is to examine the form of the clothing of the Scythians who lived in the northern region of the Black Sea. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and catalogs of Scythian exhibitions held in Germany, a country where famous Scythian research was collected and analyzed. Results of this study are as follows: Regarding the basic form, there was no change in the appearance of the Scythian clothes which can be linked to social classes and regional background. But the detailing of the clothes changed. Russian archaeologist Klocko has stated that decorative bands of ancient costume appear to depend on the construction of ancient clothing. I have analyzed the upperjacket of Scythians with the decorative bands based on the research of Klocko. From this analysis could be observed that decorative bands of upperjacket had also been varied depending on their region and their social status. The decoration of the revers of upperjacket differs according to social status. According to their width, trousers were classified in types; in narrow and wide. The basic set up of the narrow-type is as follows: the trouser is divided into voluminous straight forms and leggings in close contact with the legs. The width of a trouser differs according to the social status of Scythians and from the region where they lived. Regional differences could be observed more significantly, than differences resulting from social status.

스키타이인의 머리형태와 수염에 대한 연구 - 흑해 북쪽지역 스키타이인을 중심으로 -

장영수,Chang, Youngsoo 복식문화학회 2018 服飾文化硏究 Vol.26 No.4

In ancient times, hairstyle varies according to tribes. Because it is a social product that depends on status, class, and gender within the tribes, research on the hairstyle is an important source for studying the culture of the tribes. The purpose of this study is to analyze hairstyle of the Scythians and to understand the culture of the Scythians. Furthermore, the purpose is to identify the ethnic group based on this research. And it is intended to use the results as a comprehensive resource for research on the origins of Korean ancient costumes. As a research method, literature study and artifact analysis were performed concurrently. Data for artifact analysis were taken directly from the Eremitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, where the researcher visited for this study. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Hairstyle of the Scythians were classified into three types: straight hair, braided hair, and tied hair depending on social status, age, and region. Straight hair was usually seen with kings, royalty, and warriors, and the hair length varied according to their status. Braid hair appears by a depiction of an old man and young Scythians. Tied hair was observed in the warrior. The beard was divided into chin-beard and mustache. Long chin-beards and mustaches were mostly observed in the ruling classes, while medium length chin-beards and short mustaches were considered the most common form of beard because they appeared in most classes. The young Scythians, regardless of their status, had no beard.

실크로드의 중심 박트리아의 복식 연구 - 유물 분석을 중심으로 -

장영수,Chang, Youngsoo 한국의류산업학회 2017 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.19 No.4

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

스키타이 복식 연구 Ⅱ

장영수(Youngsoo Yi-Chang) 한국의상디자인학회 2016 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.18 No.1

스키타이 복식 연구 III-알타이 파지리크 지역 스키타이인을 중심으로-

장영수 ( Youngsoo Yi-chang ) 한국의류산업학회 2016 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.18 No.4

The study will analyze the costumes of the Scythians tribes who lived in the region of Altai in the 3-5 century BC. The purpose of this study is to prepare new material to re-examine the theory, which claims that the origin of the circular motives of korean costumes are to be found in the typology of the Scythian costumes. In this study, we analyzed the most recent reports of archaeological excavation about the unearthed clothes in the Pazyryk region and compared its information with european literature. The conclusion of this study is as follows: The jackets of the Pazyryk region are classified in two types, (1) opened jacket with narrow sleeve and (2) enclosed jacket with narrow sleeve. Trousers were separated by (1) narrow and (2) extreme wide trousers. The enclosed jacket of tunic form and extreme wide trousers are newly excavated. It proves, there was a vivid exchange between the Scythians and their neighboring cultures. It can be noted, that there existed a diverse Scythian culture of costumes, besides the commonly known clothing culture of the "Pazyryk-rider". Based upon the results of the previous research, it can be said that the opened jacket with narrow sleeve and narrow trousers are costume typologies which are common for all Scythian tribes of the whole Eurasian region. The hem of the edge of jacket is proven to be a connective element, which is common to all Scythian tribes.

한국 고대복식의 스키타이 복식 유래설에 대한 실증적 검토 - 유물에 나타난 두 복식유형간의 공통점 및 차이점 분석 -

장영수(Youngsoo Chang) 한국복식학회 2020 服飾 Vol.70 No.2

타퀴이 부스탄 부조에 묘사된 사산조 복식연구

장영수 ( Youngsoo Chang ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2023 패션 비즈니스 Vol.27 No.2

Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs are relatively well preserved among Sassanid relics. They are considered concrete and empirically important materials for studying Sassanian culture. In these rock reliefs, inauguration of various kings and hunting scenes are depicted. Thus, kings' attire and life of the court could be discerned according to eras. The purpose of this study was to investigate Sassanian clothing styles of various social positions by analyzing their clothing depicted in rock reliefs and to improve comprehension of the culture of the Sassanian Dynasty. Methodically, literature studies and artifacts were analyzed in parallel. Data of these two insources were consolidated for comparison. Results of this study are as follows. Since the Sassanian Dynasty succeeded the Parthian Dynasty, the Parthian style of clothing pieces such as tunic and trousers appeared in their attire. Basic types of tunics and trousers did not vary according to social status or age. However, details showed differences in those aspects. In the early Sassanian Dynasty, the dressing style of Rome was adopted. Styles of tunic and trousers featured draperies with many wrinkles and shoes were worn instead of boots. Trousers were tied with laces at ankles and laces were decorated with round clasps, imitating the style used by Kushan kings to the east of Sasanians. External cultural elements were also present in costumes of the Sassanian Dynasty, which played a bridging role for cultural exchanges between Eastern and Western civilizations at the gateway of the Silk Road.

고대 근동 복식에 나타난 선(襈) 연구 -고대 유물을 중심으로-

장영수(Youngsoo Chang) 경희대학교 산학협력단 예술디자인연구원 2017 예술· 디자인학연구 Vol.20 No.1

선(襈)은 의복의 가장자리 즉 깃, 소매, 섶, 밑단에 천을덧댄 것을 말한다. 이는 옷의 가장자리에 올이 풀리는것을 방지하기 위한 실용적인 목적과 아울러 선에 무늬를 넣어 장식적인 효과나 또한 악령이나 질병으로부터착용자를 보호하기 위한 주술적인 목적으로도 사용된 것으로 추정되고 있다. 본 연구는 복식에 나타나는 선이언제부터 나타났는가를 규명하기 위하여 고대 근동의 유물을 중심으로 복식에 나타나는 선을 관찰하며 고대 근동의 복식문화를 연구하는 것이 목적이다. 연구 방법으로는 유럽에서 고대 근동의 유물들을 전시한 전시 카탈로그와 문헌을 수집하여 전시카탈로그 중에서 2차 자료인 유물 사진들을 44점 선별하여 비교 분석하였다. 이연구에서 얻은 결론은 다음과 같다. 고대 근동에서는 기원전 3000년경의 유물에서부터 옷 끝 단과 밑단, 소매 등에 선(襈)이 관찰되었다. 선에는 단순선과 단순선을 술 장식과 결합한 형태 등이 있었다. 단순선은 신, 왕등의 신분이 높은 계층에서 나타났으며 시간이 지나면서 일반 평민들의 복식에도 나타나 선(襈)이보편화 된 것을 알 수 있었다. 선이 보편화 되면서 신분이 높은 계층에서는 문양을 넣어 선을 더욱 복잡하게 만들며 신분을 구별하는 용도로 사용한 것을 알 수 있었다. 이외에도 화려한 문양이 있는 선은 동물의 사육사나, 힘을 사용하는 계층에서 관찰되었는데 이는 선이 신분을구별하는 용도이외에 주술적인 용도로도 사용되었다고추측되었다. 단순선에 술장식이 첨가된 형태는 훨씬 늦은 시기인 기원전 13세기에 나타났으며 신분에 따라 선의 문양과 술장식 등이 화려하게 나타났음을 알 수 있었다. The hem refers to attaching pieces to the edges of clothing - collars, sleeves, opening, and under edge. The hem was used for practical purposes to prevent loosening of clothing on the edge of the garment, and it was also used as decorative elements by putting a pattern. It is also believed to have been used for magical purposes to protect the wearer from evil spirits and diseases. The purpose of this study is to investigate the appearance of the hem in the costume culture of the Ancient Near East by observing the costumes expressed in the relics of the ancient Near Eastern costumes. As a research method, we collected 44 images of artifacts as secondary data in the literature and the exhibition catalog exhibiting ancient relics of the ancient Near East. The conclusions of this study are as follows. In the ancient Near East, there are two types of hems- the simple hem and the simple hem combined with a tassel. From the relics dating back to 3000 BC, it appeared early in the class of the gods and kings, and over time, it became usual to the commoners' costumes. As the hem became more common, it became more complicated and more distinguished by putting the pattern in the higher class. In addition to this, those hems, which had a brilliant pattern, were observed on the clothes of animal breeders or in the class that used force, and it is presumed that it was also used as a magical use in addition to the purpose of distinguishing the classes. The shape of the simple hem with a tassel appeared at a much later stage.

이슬람시기 이전시대 실크로드 복식에 나타난 선(襈) 연구 ╶ 유물 분석을 중심으로╶

장영수(Youngsoo Chang) 경희대학교 산학협력단 예술디자인연구원 2017 예술· 디자인학연구 Vol.20 No.2

본 연구는 복식에 나타나는 선이 언제부터 나타났고고대사회에서는 어떻게 사용되었으며 그 기능은 어떠했는지를 규명하기 위해 진행했던 ‘고대 근동 복식에나타난 선 연구’의 후속 연구이다. 본 연구에서는 다(多)종족이 교류하며 고대 문명을 발전시켰던 실크로드를 중심으로 1차 연구에서 살펴본페르시아 아케메네스 왕조 이후부터 실크로드 지역이이슬람화되기 시작하는 7세기 중엽까지로 연구 범위를정하여 실크로드 지역의 복식에서 나타나는 선을 분석하여 복식에 나타나는 선이 어느 종족에 한정적으로나타나는지 아니면 종족의 구분 없이 또 시간에 구분 없이 복식에 일반적으로 나타나는 보편성을 갖는지를살펴보기 위함이다. 연구방법으로는 문헌연구와 아울러 실증적 자료로서의 사진들을 활용하였다. 이 연구에서 얻은 결론은 다음과 같다. 이슬람 시기 이전 실크로드 복식에 나타나는 선은 특정한 시기, 특정한 종족에만 나타나는 특정적인 것이 아니고 실크로드 복식의보편적인 공통분모였다. 신분에 따라서는 차이점이 관찰되어 신분을 표현하거나 또 같은 신분에서 서열을 표시하기 위하여 무늬의 유무, 선의 굵기의 차이 등의다른 점은 관찰되어 선이 그 사회에서 사회적 기능을 담당했던 것으로 사료되었다. 또한 옷의 절단 부분을 튼튼하게 하기 위한 실용적인 목적으로 사용한 경우도관찰되었다. This study is a follow-up study of the first study 'A Study on the Hem of the Costume of Ancient Near East' which was conducted to identify how the hem appeared in the costume, how it was used in ancient society, and how it functioned. In this study, it is assumed that from the third century BC, the heyday of Parthia, which had exerted a powerful influence on the Silk Road, until the middle of the 7th century, the scope of the study is limited mainly to the Silk Road area. In order to examine whether the hem is confined to a certain race or whether it has universality that is common in the costume regardless of race or age, through analysis of the hem that appears in the costume of the Silk Road area where various races interact. The conclusions of this study are as follows. Before the Islamic era, the hem that appeared in the Silk Road costume was not a specific one, but a common occurrence of the Silk Road costume. According to the status, differences were observed, and in order to express the identity or to show the sequence in the same status, the difference of the presence of the pattern and the difference of the thickness of the line was observed, and it seemed that hem was responsible for and serving social functions in the ancient society. It has also been observed that the cut portion of the clothes is used for practical purposes to make it strong.