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성인 남자 생활한복 패턴에 관한 연구-20대를 중심으로-
진선희(Jin Sun-Hee),남윤자(Nam Yoon-Ja) 한복문화학회 2003 韓服文化 Vol.6 No.3
This study is to develop a proposed pattern for man's Sangwhal Hanbok . Patterns were collected by dassifying companies into well-known Sangwhal Hanbok cornpanies in Insa-dong. Myongryun-dong. medium and low price companies in Dongdaemun market, and companies focused on Internet e-Commerce.<br/> Appearance evaluation sheet consisted of 32 Questions with 5 grads, data was analyzed by SPSS, N-JOVA and t-test,<br/> and Duncan's multiple range test.<br/> 1. As a result of appearance evaluation by making patterns with white cotton, pattern of company in Insa-dong.<br/> Myongryun-dong gained better evaluation and selected as the Model pattern.<br/> 2. For lower rating items of the Model pattern. - the modification and supplement were pertormed. Then, the cornoarative<br/> appearance evaluation was pertormed again. The pattern gaining good marks in this evaluation was selected as a<br/> research pattern.<br/> With the Sangwhal Hanbok for man protested in this study, anyone can select and make directly without limit of color and price. Development of a pattern by body types, ages, and multi-stage sizes, conversion of it into database, and connection with Internet with more in-depth study will lead people to make the Sangwhal Hanbok easily and to achieve popularization of the Sangwhal Hanbok easily.<br/>
연구논문 : 3차원 인체형상과 3차원 동작분석에 의한 방화복 소매패턴 개발
한설아 ( Sul Ah Han ),남윤자 ( Yun Ja Nam ),윤혜준 ( Hye Jun Yoon ),이상희 ( Sang Hee Lee ),김현주 ( Hyun Joo Kim ) 한국의류산업학회 2012 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.14 No.1
This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder`s flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist`s ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the handful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers` range of motion.
국내 의류상품개발과정에서 직종별 업무관여도 비교 - 테크니컬 디자인 업무 중심으로 -
김보아 ( Bo Ah Kim ),남윤자 ( Yun Ja Nam ),이재일 ( Jaeil Lee ),윤미경 ( Mi Kyung Yoon ) 한국의류산업학회 2016 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.18 No.5
The purpose of this study is 1) to research how practitioners in fashion industry in South Korea perceive concepts of Technical Design/Designer, 2) to compare and analyze issues at work by occupation, 3) to research specific works in garment development process, and 4) to compare and analyze work involvement by occupation, type of a company and etc, and 5) to propose the role of Technical Designers in apparel companies in South Korea. There were two methods to conduct this study, which were in-depth interview and survey. Both methods were conducted to designers, merchandisers, pattern makers, technical designers, and production coordinators. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and Factor analysis were performed to get results by using SPSS 18.0 program. The results are following. There were 50 works during garment development process from the result of in-depth interview, and 6 factors were obtained from the result of Factor analysis, which were ‘Works about Sample in Sample Development Process’, ‘Works about Product’s Pattern and Size Spec’, ‘Works about Development of Garment’s Design’, ‘Works about Planning of Product Development and Management of Product in Stock’, ‘Works about Production Process’, and ‘Preparation Works for Sample Development’. In conclusion, technical designer in apparel companies in South Korea should be in charge of works about sample in sample development process and decision making of product’ size spec, which is included in works about product’s pattern and size spec. Also, they should complete technical package after product is developed by designers.
홍명화(Myung Wha Hong),남윤자(Yoon Ja Nam) 한국복식학회 2000 服飾 Vol.50 No.1
The results of this study were as follows: The quilt has been used for warmth, supporting materials, protection, religious uses, decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk`s robe of lags, and the word `nubi` is originated from `nabeui` in both Korea and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quilt were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand, Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fine quilt(Jan nubi), Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region, and can be grouped into sashiko, kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quilt. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings, and stitched vertically on the fabrics. Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics, and main uses of the quilt costumes were working clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family`s health, happiness and longevity. In summary, Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton, and stitch parallel vertical lines to provide warmth. Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns, differ by region, and are made for warmth and supporting materials.
연구논문 : 3차원 스캔 데이터를 활용한 스타일별 여성 팬츠 패턴 연구
윤미경 ( Mi Kyung Yoon ),남윤자 ( Yun Ja Nam ) 한국의류학회 2016 한국의류학회지 Vol.40 No.1
This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women``s pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.