Development of Customized Textile Design using AI Technology -A Case of Korean Traditional Pattern Design-

정다울,서성은 한국의류학회 2023 한국의류학회지 Vol.47 No.6

With the advent of artificial intelligence (AI) during the Fourth Industrial Revolution, the fashion industry has simplified the production process and overcome the technical difficulties of design. This study anticipates likely changes in the digital age and develops a model that will allow consumers to design textile patterns using AI technology. Previous studies and industrial examples of AI technology's use in the textile design industry were investigated, and a textile pattern was developed using an AI algorithm. A new textile design model was then proposed based on its application to both virtual and physical clothing. Inspired by traditional Korean masks and props, AI technology was used to input color data from open application programming interface images. By inserting these into various repeating structures, a textile design was developed and simulated as garments for both virtual and real garments. We expect that this study will establish a new textile design development method for Generation Z, who favor customized designs. This study can inform the use of personalization in generative textile design as well as the systemization of technology-driven methods for customized and participatory textile design.

대학 여성운동을 역사화하기: 대학 사회 및 한국 여성운동과의 관계를 중심으로

정다울,이나영 서강대학교 사회과학연구소 2020 社會科學硏究 Vol.28 No.1

This study analyzes how the women’s movement on campus has been changed under the double opportunity structures of ‘university’ and ‘Korean women’s movement’ from the 1980s to the 2010s. Some findings of this research are as follows. Along with the growth of the progressive women’s movement, the women’s movement waged on campus was born with the goal of liberating women through social transformation. In the aspiration of the democratization, however, it was not possible to claim the uniqueness of women’s problem. Afterwards, in the 1990s, it emphasized the independent domain of women’s problems and aimed to liberate sexual oppression in a close relationship with the progressive women’s movement. However, in the mid-2000s, the women’s movement on campus greatly contracted due to the collapse of the university community and the rapid spread of anti-feminism. Moreover, as the progressive women’s movement became institutionalized, the radicality of movement had been weakened and it changed the opportunity structure surrounding the women’s movement on campus. Since the feminist movement has been actively developed around young women from the mid-2010s, the women’s movement on campus is once again calling the student community as the subject of transformation of gender structure. In the middle of this change, the crisis, such as the abolition of General Female Student Council, is turning into an opportunity to expand and diversify the movement. Through these results, this article aims to suggest that the current topography of the women’s movement on campus should not be understood by simplifying it into a frame called ‘gender conflict’, but should be read in the history of long struggles. 본 연구는 1980년대부터 현재까지 대학 여성운동이 정치·사회적 변동 속에서 ‘대학(운동·사회)’과 ‘한국 여성 운동’이라는 이중적 기회구조와 역동적 관계를 맺으며 어떻게 변화해왔는지 살펴보고자 한다. 분석 결과, 대학 여성운동은 진보 여성운동의 성장과 함께 사회 변혁을 통한 여성해방을 목표로 태동했으나 민주화 운동의 열망 속에 여성문제의 독자성을 내세우지는 못했다. 1990년대 이후 진보 여성운동과의 긴밀한 관계 속에 성 억압을 전면에 내세우며 여성문제의 독자성과 독립적 조직을 강조했다. 2000년대에 들어서 진보 여성운동의 제도화와 약화된 급진성, 성평등 ‘신화’ 등의 담론으로 대학 여성운동을 둘러싼 기회구조가 바뀌게 되고, 대학 공동체 붕괴와 역차별 담론의 확산 속에 대학 여성운동은 크게 위축되었다. 2010년대 중반 이후 젊은 여성들을 중심으로 페미니즘 운동이 ‘다시’ 활발히 전개되면서 대학 여성운동은 학생 사회를 젠더 구조 변혁의 주체로 불러내고 있으며, 총여학생회의 폐지와 같은 위기를 운동의 확장과 다양화의 기회로 전환해내고 있다. 이러한 결과를 통해 본 연구는 현재 대학 여성운동의 지형을 단순히 생물학적 남녀 간 갈등이라는 프레임으로 단순화하여 이해해서는 안 되며, 한국사회의 변화와 긴 투쟁의 역사 속에서 읽어내야 함을 제시하고자 한다.

텍스트 마이닝을 이용한 소셜 미디어의 패션 비평에 관한 탐색적 연구 - 유튜브의 패션쇼 Panel discussion을 중심으로 -

정다울,김세진 복식문화학회 2024 服飾文化硏究 Vol.32 No.2

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021–2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection’s outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

노스탤지어 관점에서의 한국 레트로 패션 문화 연구-신문기사를 중심으로-

정다울,하지수 한국의류학회 2022 한국의류학회지 Vol.46 No.5

Retro fashion is emerging among young people as an approach to discovering a new meaning in Korea's historical culture. Research on Korea's unique retro fashion culture is required because there is no research on retro fashion culture based on Korea's historical background. Therefore, this study examined how retro fashion culture has progressed based on Korea's historical background from a nostalgic perspective. All retro-related newspaper articles from 1950 to 2020 were collected, and content analysis was conducted for each semantic unit. The results revealed that personal nostalgia is based on personal experience and is extending to younger generations. In terms of nostalgia in interpersonal relationships, the younger generation reinterpreted the fashion culture of the older generation after the 2010s. In terms of vicarious nostalgia, a retro culture reminiscent of the 1990s with a background in economic development and consumption culture appeared after 2012. The youth culture and university culture of the 1970s and 1980s were reinterpreted as street fashion. Since the late 2010s, the younger generation has been exhibiting cultural nostalgia, believing that the historical Korean culture is not outdated but has a unique heritage formed during the modernization process. Symbolic nostalgia appeared in Korean fashion culture during modernization.

디지털 팬덤 문화에서 패션의 하위문화적 특성에 대한 연구

정다울,하지수 한국패션디자인학회 2020 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.20 No.3

디지털 시대의 팬덤은 전문성과 산업성을 바탕으로 현대 사회에서 새로운 문화 공동체로서 재평가되고 있다. 본 연구는 아이돌 방탄소년단의 팬덤을 연구 대상으로 하여 하위문화 형성의 촉매제 역할을 하는 패션 의 하위문화적 특성을 밝히고자 하였다. 선행 연구를 바탕으로 검색어를 ‘BTS cosplay’, BTS attire’, ‘BTS fashion’, ‘BTS outfit’으로 설정하였다. 유튜브 사이트에서 검색어를 검색한 결과 상위 2개의 채널에서 나온 20개의 관련 영상과 댓글을 근거 이론으로 분석하였고, 연구 결과로 도출된 22개의 개념을 3가지로 범주화시 켰다. 첫 번째 범주는 방탄소년단 관련 패션 놀이를 통한 의복 경험 축적이다. 팬덤은 BTS를 통해 새로운 의복을 시도하고 이를 통해 개인의 의복 경험이 축적한다. 팬덤은 BTS를 통해 새로운 의복을 시도하고 이를 통해 개인의 의복 경험을 축적한다. 두 번째 범주는 BTS 패션과 자신의 경험에 관한 아이디어 교환을 통한 팬덤 간의 유대감 형성이다. 온라인상의 활발한 의사소통을 통해 팬들은 자신의 페르소나를 구성하고 디지털 코스프레를 실천한다. 세 번째 범주는 팬덤이 원하는 BTS 패션 이미지 구축이다. 팬덤은 집단 지성을 쌓아가 면서 스스로 원하는 방향으로 BTS 이미지를 능동적으로 이끌어가고 있었다. 이를 통해 팬덤 패션은 팬덤 공동의 놀이 참여, 패스티시 퍼포먼스, 아이돌 패션의 코드화라는 3가지 하위문화적 특징을 보이는 것을 확 인하였다. 팬들은 공동체에 참여하는 놀이 방법으로서 패션에 접근하며, 이들은 패션을 통해 자신의 자아가 아이돌의 이미지와 병합되는 순간을 경험한다. 팬덤 내부의 아이돌 패션 코드는 아이돌과 대중의 간극을 좁 혀준다. 궁극적으로 팬덤은 패션을 통해 개인의 정체성을 구성하고 사회적 공감을 유도한다. The current digital fandom, which has the expertise and industriality of itself, is widely credited as a new cultural community in modern society. This study aimed to examine the characteristics of subcultures where Idol BTS fandom interacts through the medium of fashion. Based on the theoretical background this study sets 4 keywords; BTS cosplay, BTS attire, BTS fashion, BTS outfit. After searching them on YouTube, it adopted the top two of the channels for study and selected BTS’s fashion-related 20 videos as well as comments on them. As a result of the open coding, 22 concepts and 3 upper categories were derived. First, it is the accumulation of clothing experience through BTS fashion play. Fandom tries new clothes through BTS and accumulates personal clothing experiences. Second, it is the bondage between fandom through the interchange of ideas about BTS fashion and their own experience. Through active online communication, fans form their own persona and practice digital cosplay. Third, the fandom builds up a BTS fashion image as fandom wants. By building collective intelligence, fandom leads BTS images actively as they want. Three subcultural characteristics of the Idol fandom were discovered through the above-mentioned research analysis; communal play participation, pastiche performance, and Idol fashion coding. When participating in fandom, fashion is practiced as communal play and the individual fan experiences a moment when the ego is merged with an Idol. The Idol fashion code inside the fandom fills up the gap between Idols and the public. Ultimately, fandom composes personal identity and induces social empathy through fashion.

문화상품으로서 토트 가방에 나타난 문화정체성과 디자인 개발-한복의 모티브를 중심으로-

정다울 ( Da Wool Jung ),김태은 ( Tae Eun Kim ),방하은 ( Hae Un Bang ),조선형 ( Sun Hyung Cho ),김민자 ( Min Ja Kim ) 한국의류학회 2014 한국의류학회지 Vol.38 No.4

A bag is a daily article carried in one`s hand or on one`s shoulder for things as well as a fashion item. The functions of a bag were derived to include portability, decorativeness, brand identity, message commu-nicability and cultural identity. Souvenir bags sold at a gallery or a museum are goods to maximize the cul-tural identity of a bag based on national emblems, exhibitions and characters as design motifs. Based on the typological analysis of souvenir bags showing cultural identity, this study developed a design with a motif of Hanbok from Korean traditional cultural content to develop a tote bag design that reveals Korean cultu ?ral identity. Under a traditional Hanbok motif colors, sizes and patterns were reinterpreted in a modern perspective. For such a research purpose, 8 kinds of tote bags were developed. A tote bag design that reflects Korean cultural identity will contribute to raising the potential to develop cultural goods that are modern, popular and differentiated in the global market.

청도반시(Diospyros kaki Thunb. cv. Cheongdo-Bansi) 탈삽 껍질 추출물의 산화스트레스로부터 PC-12 신경세포 보호 효과

정다울(Da-Wool Jeong),조치흥(Chi Heung Cho),라찬수(Chan Su Rha),이승환(Seung Hwan Lee),김대옥(Dae-Ok Kim) 한국식품과학회 2017 한국식품과학회지 Vol.49 No.5

본 연구에서는 떫은 감인 청도반시(Diospyros kaki Thunb. cv. Cheongdo-Bansi)를 탈삽하여 곶감으로 만드는 과정 중에 다량의 부산물로 생겨나는 감 껍질을 활용하고자 산화방지능 및 신경세포 보호능을 평가하였다. 탈삽한 감 껍질을 40% (v/v) 에탄올-물혼합용액을 사용하여 초음파 추출을 한 후에, 가열처리와 비가열처리 방법을 이용하여 각각의 추출물을 확보하였다. 가열처리한 추출물이 비가열처리로 얻어진 것에 비해서 총페놀 함량, 총플라보노이드 함량, 산화방지능에서 약 1.3-1.8배 더 높았다. 비가열처리 추출물과 비교하여, 가열처리한 것이 PC-12 신경세포의 생존율 더 높이고, 세포 내 산화스트레스를 좀 더 완화하였다. AChE와 BChE 억제능 역시 가열처리한 추출물이 비가열처리로 얻은 추출물보다 더 높았다. 이러한 결과들은 산화방지능을 보유하며 콜린가수분해효소를 억제하는 기능성 소재 발굴을 위한 탈삽 감껍질 추출물 활용 가능성을 보여준다. Astringent persimmon (Diospyros kaki Thunb. cv. Cheongdo-Bansi) peel with the astringency removed, which is a by-product of dried persimmon (gotgam), was investigated for its antioxidant and neuroprotective properties. A mixture of peel and 40% (v/v) aqueous ethanol was subjected to ultrasonication and then thermal and nonthermal treatments, to produce thermally-treated and nonthermally-treated persimmon peel extracts (TPE and NTPE, respectively). The total phenolic and flavonoid contents and the antioxidant capacity of TPE was approximately 1.3-1.8 times higher than those of NTPE. TPE resulted in the increased viability of neuronal PC-12 cells compared with NTPE. Furthermore, intracellular oxidative stress in PC-12 cells was more decreased by treatment with TPE than NTPE. Cholinesterases, such as acetylcholinesterase and butyrylcholinesterase, were more inhibited by treatment with TPE than NTPE. These results suggest that TPE is useful as a functional material to decrease oxidative stress in neuronal cells and to inhibit cholinesterases.

고스 스타일의 조형적 특성과 의미 해석

정다울(Da Wool Jung),김민자(Min Ja Kim) 한국복식학회 2014 服飾 Vol.64 No.2

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.

소셜 미디어 스포츠 제품 네이티브 광고인지에 따른 광고 수용 태도에 대한 연구: 광고 수용 요인 및 공유의도를 중심으로

박신재,정다울 한국골프학회 2023 골프연구 Vol.17 No.-

[목적] 이 연구의 목적은 스포츠 제품의 네이티브 광고를 통해 형성되는 광고 인지로 형성된 광고 수용 요인이 광고 수용 태도 및 공유의도에 초점을 맞추어 이들의 관계를 검증하고자 한다. [방법] 이를 위해 2023년 1월 1일부터 3월 31일까지 인스타그램 및 유튜브 스포츠 광고를 시청한 경험이 있는 시청자 317명을 대상으로 선정하였으며, 온라인 설문조사를 실시하였다. 자료처리는 SPSS 25.0, AMOS23.0를 활용하여 빈도분석, 확인적요인분석, 신뢰도분석, 상관관계분석, 다중회귀분석을 실시하였다. [결과] 연구결과 첫째, 스포츠 제품 네이티브 광고 인지에 따른 광고 수용 요인이 광고 수용태도에 긍정적인 영향을 미쳤다. 둘째, 스포츠 제품 네이티브 광고 광고 인지에 따른 광고 수용 요인이 공유 의도에 긍정적인 영향을 미쳤다. 셋째, 스포츠 제품 네이티브 광고 광고 인지에 따른 광고 수용태도는 공유 의도에 긍정적인 영향을 미쳤다. [결론] 스포츠 제품과 브랜드는 명확한 자사의 광고 캠페인을 타켓팅하고, 개인화된 광고를 통해 흥미와 긍정적인 태도, 정보공유를 기대해야 할 것이다. [Purpose] The purpose of this study is to verify the relationship between advertisement acceptance attitude and sharing intention of advertisement acceptance factors formed by advertisement perception formed through native advertisements of sports products. [Method] From January 1st to March 31st, 2023, 317 viewers who had watched Instagram and YouTube sports advertising were selected, and an online survey was conducted. Frequency analysis, confirmatory factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, and multiple regression analysis were performed using SPSS 25.0 and AMOS 23.0. [Result] As a result of the study, first, the acceptance factor of native advertisements for sports products had a significant influence on the attitude of acceptance of advertisements. Second, the acceptance factor of sports product native advertisements had a significant influence on the sharing intention. Third, the attitude of accepting native advertisements for sports products had a significant influence on the sharing intention.[Conclusion] Sports products and brands should target their clear advertising campaigns and expect interest, positive attitudes, and information sharing through personalized advertising.

Experience with the Weighted Bootstrap in Testing for Unobserved Heterogeneity in Exponential and Weibull Duration Models

조진서,정다울,Halbert White 한국계량경제학회 2011 계량경제학보 Vol.22 No.2

We study the properties of the likelihood-ratio test for unobserved heterogeneity in duration models using mixtures of exponential and Weibull distributions proposed by Cho and White (2010). As they note, this involves a nuisance parameter identified only under the alternative. We apply the asymptotic critical values in Cho and White (2010) and compare these with Hansen's (1996) weighted bootstrap. Our Monte Carlo experiments show that the weighted bootstrap provides superior asymptotic critical values.