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      • KCI등재
      • KCI등재

        현대패션디자인에 나타난 동양의 미의식 연구

        임영자(Young Ja Im) 한국복식학회 1996 服飾 Vol.30 No.-

        1. Introduction In the present age dominated by both certainty of 1%, and uncertainty of 99%, `Fuzzy thinking` of Bart Kosko, that is the way to solve the problems by the scientific way through a worldview of Buddhism or Taoism greatly prevails around the world over Lateral thinking`, and the authenticity or the right and-wrong of the uncertainty, which is the thinking way to find the answer of the problems of illogical way of Edward de Bello against the western verical thinking way. Concurrently fashion designers over the world also adopt the oriental elements. But there exist differences of thoughts between the Orient and the Occident. And they have different thinking way of aestheticism and references of the value on the beauty. Not only beauty but the view through the mind as intuitional thought in which not only the recognition of sense but also the rationalism and the naturalness play key role. The asethetic sense in th orient constains both the truth and virtue. 2. The asethetic thought in the Orient It`s from the thought of neutralization of Confucius. The mean or moderation state which in harmony with ethical virtue and aesthetic beauty is the ideal and is the ultimate. Therefore the thought of Confucian is the creativity in which the balance and the harmony is most important. Fashion design is also one of the representation of the mean, because the spirit of the designer is harmonized formlessly with the object of the model of the fashion design. 2) The beauty of skillfulness It indicates the Taoism of Lao-tzu and Chuangtzu. It takes a super-arustic declaration that human can feel and recognize the color of colorlessness, the sound of soundlessness, and the taste of tatelessness. The thought of arts affected by Taoism is `advanced age`. called the beauty of skillfuness. The view of arts of Lao-tzu takes the beauty of cosmos and the nature as a standard. Especially the beauty of inactivity is recognized by the linkage between the beauty and the ugliness. And these things appear in fashion design as a design elelment such as humor or exaggeration. 3) The beauty of non-dualism It is thought of Buddhism that all evil passions of worry occur from the opposition in dualism. Finally this thought leads to that everything is consistent and truth is only one from the point of view that virtue and vice has on linkage, that is `no virtues, no vices` (不思善, 不思惡) and `one with two, two with one, one is not two` (一而二, 二而一, 一而不二), A big tendency like this became the root formation of the thought of the oriental arts. 3. Characteristics of the oriental asethetic sense on the present fashion design 1) The formation of the fashion design on the oriental elements In the picture-incantation(圖像呪術), which was a representation of an era when the though of `cosmic dual forces(The positive and negative)` dominated, the basic polygons of `a circle, square, triangle` means both `one, two, three`, and `the negative, positive, mean` of cosmic elements. From this point of view the way of planner cutting in the Orient is different from that of the Occidental which is in three-dimensional. The plannaer polygon type of the cut-pieces comes to have the meaning of the three-dimension, when they consist of a suit that has the combination of each cut-piece. This shows the consistency with the principle of cosmos creation of Taoism that one is two is three and three is everything. 2) The coloring and the symbolic representation of the fashion design on the oriental elemensts The sense on the colors in the Orient from the thought of `the cosmic dual forces and the five elements(陰陽五行說)` is not the experienced from the knowledge, but contains the consideration of philosophy, Five-primary-color(五正色) representing compass directions Blue(East), Red(South), Yellow(Center), White(West), and Black(North) is called `the positive`. for this five-primary-color, secondary-color(間色) which comes from the compound of the primary color is called 'the negative

      • KCI등재

        한복에 나타난 위상기하학적 구성에 관한 연구

        박미자,임영자(Young Ja Im) 한국복식학회 1996 服飾 Vol.30 No.-

        The main current of ancient Korean thought is based on Yuk(易); which solves the principle of creation of universe, letter(文字) which is the principle of geometry, and three elements thought of circle(圓·○·heaven·天·乾·one), square(方·□·earth·地·坤·two), triangularity(角·△·human·moderation·three). It`s related to the creation principle of the universe and regarded as a sign that demonstrates shows the way to read the mathematical principle. The original form of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is represents the structure of human body which reflects a small universe. So a good structure and meaning of the human body is well read in the formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) and that is a good symbolization of the clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) as the space of small universe. The good formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be shown by cutting out straight, bending, twisting and turning each straitly cutting piece is applied to its transformation. Geametical formation with obvious symmetric dividing of front-back, left-right and top-bottom is well shown in Korean clothes by twisting Yuk(易) or m bius strips. So, we can find out whole formation by representing only either `front and back` or `left and right` and also sa-pok(사폭) of man`s trousers, seop(섶) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket, 저고리), kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) of Sam-hwai-jang jeo-go-ri(삼회장 저고리), mu(무) of jig-ryung(straight collar and long and wide sleeved robe, 直領), trouser wide and ga-rae-ba-dae(가래바대) of dan-sok-kok(woman`s under trousers). The formation line of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is based on the principle of unlimited m bius strips by twisting of turning direction from universal principle and original basic form is not changed even by turning inside out. Unity of the whole and part in Korean clothes (Han-Bock, 韓服) could be found in nonorientable thought (非始原思想) which represents the unity and dependence kil(길) of jeo-go-ri, short jacket, 저고리) and po(long and wide sleeved robe, 袍). Selva-gewise(식서방향) of sleeves, and seam of outside of kil(길)and outside of seop(섶) are directed to outside of seop(섶), inside of seop(섶) is to kil and direction of inseam of kheut-dong(끝동) and kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) is directed to sleeves. Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is usually made by cutting fabric for several parts and sewing them, and the way to make Korean clothes (Han-Bock, 韓服) is deeply related to the theory of chou-pu-kyung(天符經), jong-il(終一) and il-seok-sam-geuk(一析三極). As the development of men`s consciousness is progressed from total separation to separation and superseparation. Sewing process of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) can be make single dimension to double or triple dimension of Korean clothes (Han-Bock, 韓服) silhoutte, bacause it can be include principle of topology as noneuclity.

      • KCI등재

        기공수련자의 수련 기간별 심박변이도 특성과 기분상태의 비교 분석

        심준영 ( Jun Young Shim ),임영자 ( Young Ja Im ) 국제뇌교육종합대학원 국학연구원 2012 선도문화 Vol.12 No.-

        이 연구는 기공 수련을 10년 정도 실시한 기공숙련자 10명과 3개월 미만의 기공초보자 10명을 대상으로 지감수련과 대맥운기시의 심박변이도(HRV) 특성과 기분상태의 변화를 알아보는 데 있다. 이를 위해 표준사지유도 방식의 심전도 측정시스템을 이용하여 안정시, 지감시, 대맥운기시의 심박변이도를 측정하였다. 기공수련 전과 후의 기분상태 변화를 측정하기 위하여 한국어판 기분상태척도(K-POMS)를 사용하였다. HRV 분석은 안정상태와 집중도를 고려하여 측정시 기별로 180초를 선정하여 mean HRV, SDNN, LF, HF, LF/HF를 분석하였다. HRV 분석결과, 대맥운기시에 mean HRV, LF, LF/HF에서 기공숙련자가 초보자에 비해 유의하게 높게 나타났으며, HF에서는 유의하게 낮게 나타났다. 지감에서 대맥운기시 변화에서 기공숙련자는 LF, LF/HF에서 유의한 증가를 보였고, HF에서는 유의한 감소를 보였다. 반면에 기공초보자는 SDNN, LF, LF/HF에서 유의한 감소를 보였고, HF에서는 유의한 증가를 보였다. POMS 분석결과, 사후에 분노, 피로에서 기공숙련자는 초보자에 비해 유의하게 낮게 나타났다. 기공수련 전에 비해 수련 후의 변화에서 기공숙련자는 우울, 분노, 피로, 혼란에서 기공초보자는 분노, 피로, 혼란에서 유의한 감소를 보였고, 활력에서는 두 집단 모두 유의한 증가를 보였다. 그러나 전체적인 평균값 증감의 폭은 기공숙련자 집단이 더 큰 변화를 보였다. 이러한 결과로 미루어 볼 때, 기공숙련자들은 초보자에 비해 체내의 항성성 조절능력과 스트레스 저항도를 높일 수 있고, 부정정서를 감소시키고 긍정정서를 단시간에 증가시킴으로써 효율적인 기분상태 조절능력을 잘 유지하고 있음을 알 수 있었다. This study aims to examine changes in characteristics and mood states of HRV during Jigam training and Daemaekungi with 10 Gigong experts who have trained Gigong training and 10 Gigong beginners. For this, it measured heart rate variation during stability, Jigam and Daemaekungi using ECG system of standard limb lead. Profile of mood states in Korean version (K-POMS) was used to measure changes in mood states before and after Gigong training. For the analysis of HRV, mean HRV, SDNN, LF, HF, ad LF/HF were analyzed for 180 sec. by period of measurement considering stability state and concentration. As a result of HRV, mean HRV, LF, and LF/HF ratio during Daemaekungi were significantly higher in Gigong experts than in Gigong beginners and significantly lower in HF. LF and LF/HF ratio in change of Daemaekungi during Gigam showed significant increase in Gigong experts and significant decrease in HF. On the contrary, Gigong beginners showed significant decrease in SDNN, LF and LF/HF ratio and significant increase in HF. As a result of POMS, Gigong experts were significantly lower in anger and fatigue after training than Gigong beginners. While Gigong experts showed significant decrease in depression, anger, fatigue and confusion in changes before and after Gigong training, Gigong beginners showed significant decrease in anger, fatigue and confusion, and both groups showed significant increase in vitality. But, increase and decrease of total mean value showed more changes in Gigong experts. From these results, it was found that Gigong experts could enhance homeostasis control ability and resistance to stress compared to Gigong beginners, reduce negative emotion, increase positive emotion in a short time and keep their ability to control their mood states well.

      • KCI등재

        고려시대의 갑주에 관한 고찰

        김정자(Jeong Ja Kim),임영자(Young Ja Im) 한국복식학회 1996 服飾 Vol.29 No.-

        In Koryo Dynasty, it was believed that the development of military cloths had been stagnant because there are not so many relics and decuments. Rather, it is the very important period that in which Koryeo`s unique combat cloths, coat style armour was developed. The strategy was focused on denfence of the castles, because of the development of gunpowder arms, Armous wer small-iron plat armour, small-leather armour, Kyongbungab andcotten armor.

      • KCI등재

        한국의 판·검사복에 관한 연구

        김지현(Ji Hyeon Kim),임영자(Young Ja Im) 한국복식학회 1996 服飾 Vol.29 No.-

        This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire, the typical attire of the judicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uniform or attire in Korea are insufficient, this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korean, the conclusion was made as fallows ; Firstly, Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast andthe back of an official robe according to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo (thin silk hat, 紗帽) in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong(團領) and attaching all sorts of appurtenances(胸背) including bands(帶) and shoes(靴). The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo (pattern of tiger and leopard, 虎豹), Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi (fambulous animal knowing virtue and vices, 해치), the mayor of Seoul (Han-sung-bu`s Pan-yun) equipped with Un-an (wild geese in clouds, 雲雁). In the era of the King Young-jo, the minister of Justice had no change in its official robe, but the mayer (Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds, 雲雁) changed into Un-hak (cranes in the crowd, 雲鶴). In the King Ko-jong era, the minister of Justice (Pan-suh of Hyung-jo) had Ho-pyo (pattern of tiger and leopard, 虎豹) changed into Ssang-ho (a couple of tigrs, 雙虎), and the mayor of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-hak (cranes in the crowd, 雲鶴) changed into Ssang-hak (a couple of cranes, 雙鶴), on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uniform Requlation for official-level Cleircal Staff below the ordinary staff, the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906, provided as 「the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tibunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-Gerneral」the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordinance in 1911, and changed into 「the Regulation on the Dress of Judge, Prosecutor, Attorney and Law Count Clerk」the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 after the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into 「the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff」, the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period in the beginning that it took root in Korea, and was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly, the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was, and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent government was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U.S. court attire. Fortunately, as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire, it has been told that the formation of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birthof the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.

      • KCI등재

        중국 묘족 여자복식의 의장학적 연구

        김희섭(Hee Sub Kim),임영자(Young Ja Im) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.44 No.-

        The Miaos(苗族) have their own peculiar and luxurious transitional culture a they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance against the Han Race or the chinese in their long and old history. And the traditional culture of the Miaos is abundant and diverse in several respects. Because it has taken root in foundation of their simple and native environment, it is embracing abundant and diverse contents. They largely used as the theme of patterns factual materials such as natural objects easily accessible in the natural environment, those related to marratives reflective of ethnicity, animals and plants symbolic of auspicious omen, peace, happiness and good harrest with prosperity and abundance. And they not only crossornamented natural patterns and geometrical patterns by combining them but also geometric patterns alone. It can be seen that Miaos represented patterns with exaggerated formation, overlapping and modification and the comprehensive, fomation of natural forms, abstract formation etc. Seeing the ethnic costume of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty,it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being uesd in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristic of almost perfect costume.

      • KCI등재
      • SCIESCOPUSKCI등재
      • 雙鞭毛藻類의 毒性物質

        정지형,김정선,임영자,이윤정,박종희,광식 부산대학교 신약개발연구소 1997 藥學硏究誌 Vol.31 No.2

        Dinoflagellates are one of the major concerns in fisheries and public health since they are the causative organisms of the 'red tide' and are known to produce highly toxic secondary metabolites which are ultimately transferred to human through the food chain. The chemistry and pharmacology of the dinoflagellate toxins and various bioactive components are reviewed in this article.

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