β-cyclodextrin 가공 나일론 직물과 PET 직물의 특성

정혜원,황나원,Chung, Hae-Won,Hwang, Na-Won 한국섬유공학회 2012 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.49 No.2

${\beta}$-CD is produced from starch through enzymatic degradation, and therefore it is an eco-friendly material and isn't harmful to the body. Nylon and PET fabrics are being increasingly used in active wear, as customers prefer this more comfortable and multifunctional material, as it provides antimicrobial properties and the removal of body malodor. That being said, ${\beta}$-CD is a proper material for these purposes. The ${\beta}$-CD was applied to a nylon 66 fabric and a PET fabric which were not pre-modified, and also applied to the fabrics that were modified with $O_2$ plasma or alkaline solution in order to increase surface roughness. The characteristics of these fabrics were studied. The PET fabric, which was pretreated with a NaOH solution, gains more weight than the PET fabric without pretreatment by the ${\beta}$-CD finishing. A crosslink between nylon 66 or the PET fiber and the ${\beta}$-CD finishing agent was not formed; however, the crosslink was formed in cotton fibers. This was confirmed using FT-IR and TGA analysis. The whiteness decreased little, the value of WT and MIU decreased, and that of B and RT increased with the ${\beta}$-CD finish. All of the ${\beta}$-CD finished fabrics had washing fastness after 10 washing cycles, even though nylon 66 and the PET fibers were not crosslinked with the ${\beta}$-CD finishing agent.

연구논문 : 직물의 β-cyclodextrin 가공에 따른 휘발성 유기성분의 흡착과 제거

정혜원 ( Hae Won Chung ),황나원 ( Na Won Hwang ),김주연 ( Joo Yeon Kin ),신승엽 ( Seung Yeop Shin ) 한국의류학회 2013 한국의류학회지 Vol.37 No.1

Clothes that retain and emanate body odor feel uncomfortable and unclean; subsequently, the adsorption, desorption and removal amounts of malodorous compounds from fabrics with different polarities were examined. 1-Octen-3-one, octanal and isovaleric acid, which are important malodor compounds from the body, were used as volatile organic compounds (VOC). Samples were prepared with unfinished and β-CD finished cotton, nylon and PET fabrics. The amounts of VOCs retained on the fabrics were measured using headspace GC-MS; in addition, the odor intensity of the samples were evaluated by 10 trained panelists. The amounts adsorbed were estimated by weight gain; however, moisture was found to have a larger effect on the increase in weight than VOCs. The polarity of the VOCs decreased in the order of isovaleric acid, octanal and 1-octen-3-one. Despite the exceptionally large amounts of octanal adsorbed on the nylon sample, the amounts of malodorous compounds adsorbed on fabrics increased with the decreasing VOC molecular weight. The unfinished PET sample adsorbed more VOCs than the unfinished-fabric samples. The odor intensity was mostly weaker in the β-CD finished fabrics than in the unfinished fabrics. The odor intensity of the β-CD finished fabrics was lower than unfinished fabrics. The amount of VOCs that remained on the soiled fabric samples after storing in air for 24 hrs decreased with the increasing VOC vapor pressure. Most VOCs were removed by washing; however, more VOCs were left on the β-CD finished fabrics than unfinished fabrics. The intensity of the odor from the unfinished PET and β-CD finished fabrics was stronger and weaker, respectively, than that of other fabrics, even when the same amounts of VOCs remained.

보문 : 탈색조건이 모발의 성질에 미치는 영향

신승엽 ( Seung Yeop Shin ),정혜원 ( Hae Won Chung ),황나원 ( Na Won Hwang ),황희종 ( Hee Jong Hwang ) 한국의류학회 2012 한국의류학회지 Vol.36 No.8

Many Koreans have recently bleached their black hair to blond or a light color due to the influence of their favorite Korean idols. Bleaching effects were studied under various bleaching conditions, such as the concentration of oxidants, the ratio between bleach accelerant and oxidant, and treatment temperature and time. The degree of damage of bleached hair with the same color difference (ΔE) intervals was observed in SEM images, the retention of breaking load and the change of color after dyeing. The ratio between bleach accelerant and oxidant of 1:2.5 was an effective condition. L* values of the bleached hair treated with 9% oxidant increased to 90 min. At a treatment temperature of 30℃, a* values were maximum at 30 min and then decreased as time further increased; however, b* values of the bleached hair increased as the treatment time increased. At 45℃, both of a* and b* values showed a maximum at a specific time. Bleaching efficiency was influenced most by temperature, followed in order by time, and oxidant concentration. As the treatment time increased, L* values greatly increased with twice treatment; however, a* and b* values decreased. Bleached hair, which had a color difference of higher than 30, showed the scales were completely removed and the retention of the breaking load greatly decreased. Highly bleached hair showed a great decrease in L* values by dyeing; however, dyeing with bright colors was more indicative to the effect of bleaching.

소설 「레 미제라블(Les Miserables)」에 나타난 의상 연구

김현주 ( Hyun Joo Kim ),한지은 ( Jee Eun Han ),황나원 ( Na Won Hwang ),조량 ( Liang Zhao ),김양희 ( Yang Hee Kim ) 한국패션디자인학회 2011 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.11 No.2

고전 역사물 공연의상의 경우 재현에 충실해야하므로 작품에 대한 이해와 더불어 복식사적 배경은 물론고증에 관한 전문적인 지식이 필요하다. 소설 「레 미제라블」은 대중들의 관심이 큰 작품이며 흥미 있는 연구주제임에도 불구하고 국내외 연구는 미비한 편이므로 연구가 요구된다고 하겠다. 본 연구는 이미 공연된뮤지컬 및 영화 등의 무대의상을 자료로 하는 기존의 분석방법을 따르지 않고, 시대 및 복식배경의 사적고찰을 바탕으로 원작 분석에 중점을 두었으며, 「레 미제라블」에 표현된 등장인물의 특성과 의상표현을 분석하므로 고증자료는 물론 공연의상에 실제적으로 활용 가능한 자료를 개발한다는 점에서 그 의미가 있다 고 하겠다. 「레 미제라블」전 6권의 180부분에서 발췌된 글 자료를 기초자료로 분석하였고 삽화 150여 점을 참고하였다. 첫째, 시대 및 복식배경에 대한 사적 고찰로 소설에 대한 이해를 높인다. 둘째, 자료 발굴및 분석 단계에서는 소설의 전반적인 구성 및 줄거리를 파악한 후, 주요 등장인물의 연령, 성별 및 각 인물의 신분이나 직업 등의 사회·문화적인 배경과 소설 속에 직접적으로 나타난 성격 표현을 발췌하여 주요등장인물의 특징을 분석한다. 또 주요 등장인물의 상황별 의상표현 분석에 의한 전체적인 의상형태 및 분위기 특징을 파악한다. 셋째, 분석 및 종합 단계에서는 등장인물의 특징, 의상표현 분석으로부터 주요 등장인물의 의상 이미지 컨셉을 도출하고, 상황별로 등장하는 의상의 아이템, 색채, 소재, 액세서리 등을 분석하고 종합한다. 발췌문 180부분의 분석을 통해 주요 등장인물 6인의 연령, 성별 및 사회·문화적인 배경, 성격 특징과 각 인물의 상황별 의상표현이 파악되었다. 등장인물의 이미지 컨셉 및 의상 분석 및 종합 결과, 소설의 세밀한 의상표현을 통해 시대 기본 유형을 따르고 있지만 상황에 따른 성별, 연령별, 계층별로 다양한 복식의 차이점을 파악할 수 있었다. The novel titled 「Les Miserables」is a work in which people have great interest, and is an interesting research theme. Nevertheless, there is a lack of both domestic and international studies on the topic, creating a demand for related research. This study focused on analyzing the original novel based on historical consideration of the period and costume background, instead of following preceding analytical methods that focused on materials such as stage costumes in musicals or films. It analyzes the characteristics of the characters as expressed in 「Les Miserables」, and the costume descriptions. Thus, it can be said that the study is significant for it will help with development of performance costume and provide materials of historical research. The analysis was based on 180 excerpts from six 6 volumes of 「Les Miserables」. Around 150 different episodes in the book were referred. First, historical consideration of period and costume background increases understanding of the novel. Second, understanding of the entire construction and plot of the novel is gained through the stage of excavating and analyzing materials, which includes extracting social and cultural background and analyzing characteristics of the main characters. Also, this method examines the general costume style and mood characteristics by analyzing the costume expression of the main characters according to situation. Third, in the stage of analyzing and synthesizing, the costume image concepts of the main characters are clarified through analysis of costume according to situation. By analyzing 180 different excerpts, the age and gender of the main characters, social and cultural background, personality characteristics, and each situation-based costume expression of each character were examined. As a result of analyzing and synthesizing image concept and costume of the characters, the detailed costume expressions in the novel were found to include diverse costumes according to gender, age, class and situation, even if not necessarily following the basic style of the period.