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姜京子,李貞淑,秋美先 慶尙大學校 1987 論文集 Vol.26 No.2
This was designed in order to find out the correlation between the basic needs and values on teh clothes of women, 358 women living in Taegu city and JinJu city were selected as sample for this study. The major findigs of this research were as followings. 1. Women have stronger needs for physiology, self-actualization belongness and affection self-esteem and safety. They regards economic, sensory values most important. 2. Young women tend to regard aesthetic values such as form,color, harmony important. Older women like to wear comfortable clothes. 3. Women having higher education have lower needs for physiology and safety, and they have strong need for self-actualization, And they tend to regard aesthetic values important, but they have lower religious values on the clothes. 4. There is difference of need and clothing values of women depending on the monthly income of the family. 5. Unemployed women have stronger need for self-actualization than the employed women. Ⅱ.Correlation between basic needs and values on clothes was investigated. 1. Married women who regard aethetic values important have stronger need for self-actualization. Single women who regard economic values important have lower needs for safety and self-actualization but married women have lower needs for belongingness and self-esteem. 2. There is a little difference of correltion between values and needs depending on the age and education of respondents. 3. There is a difference of correlation between values and needs depending on the monthly incomes of respondents.
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服飾변천 과정에서 Sleeve Design의 特徵(Ⅲ) : 16세기를 中心으로 Sixteenth Century
姜京子,鄭雲子,鄭福南,秋美先 慶尙大學校 1985 論文集 Vol.24 No.1
The sleeve design of costume had an impact on the general pattern of costume in 16th century. In this paper the characteristics of the change sleeve design and the method of construction were studied according to the criteria suggested by Cunnington. The results of the study can be summerized 35 follows. The costume in 16th century was not quite different from those in the past centuries, but the costume tended to have more varied detail and trimming and they were based on the graceful silhouette. In 16th century, there were no uniformity and regularity of sleeve design. But it was general trend that sleeve was expanded by using pad and slash of· it had very tight sleeve in the early part of 16th century. The tight sleeve of women's costume in Germany was tailored in two part, and it suggested the improved technic of cutting. On the other hand, the sleeve of women's costume in France and England had the artificially distorted from that had expanded form in the lower part. In the middle part of 16th century, the form of sleeve became very complicated and it was inconvenient for the wearer to put it on. Therefore, in France, the sleeve was made independently. When one put it on, a string was used to connect it to costume and to decorate with E´aqaulette. The upper part and wrist part of elbow sleeve of Over-coat in Italy were very tight, and the middle part of it was loose. The typical pattern of women's costume that had expanded sleeve in lower part was in fashion. This form disappeared in 13th century and appeared again in 14th and 15th centuries. In the part of 16th century, the sleeve design manifested the aesthetic sense of that period, Many kinds of sleeves Including the tight one, baggy one, wide one and the hanging one were used. The most characteristic sleeve of this period was the expanded leg of mutton sleeve and it was in fashion for men and women in upper classes of France and England. In short, all kinds of sleeve suggested by Cunnington appeared in this period. They include both the natural and artificial forms. As the sleeve design had varied form and the expression in detail was stressed. These style helped to harmonize the sleeve with the design for body,and they contributed to increase the splendor of costume in 16th century.
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衣服의 動作適合性에 관하여 : 上肢動作에 의한 上體의 變化 Changes of the measurement of upper body by arm movements
鄭雲子,姜京子,秋美先 慶尙大學校 1982 論文集 Vol.21 No.1
이상 上肢의 動作에 의한 上 의 伸縮 치수와 형태변화에 대해 比較 檢討한 結果 다음과 같은 結論을 얻었다. 1. 上肢의 動作으로 인해 長徑項目의 脇丈, 前肩先丈등이 크게 伸張하였으며, 특히 上擧時에 最高値를 나타내었고 幅徑項目에선 背幅의 伸張이 컸으며 背肩幅, 肩幅은 收縮 현상이 크게 나타났다. 2. 前擧動作에선 C.L上의 後面은 20∼32%의 높은 伸張率을 보였으마 側面과 前面은 오히려 收縮현상을 나타내므로 기능적인 의복 제작에 있어서는 C.L부근의 後面에 여유분을 加算함이 效果的이다. 3. 上擧動作에선 脇丈이 64.0%의 현저한 伸張율을 나타낸 반면 肩幅은 46.5%의 收縮率을 보여 상당히 좁아짐을 알 수 있으므로 활동성을 고려하여 脇線 주변에 여유분을 충분히 두는 것이 合理的이다. 4. 靜立時에 最大値를 나타낸 腕付根圍는 型에 있어서 U字型을 이루던 것이 動作이 커짐에 따라 圓弧와 같은 형을 형성했다. In order to reveal the defference ot the body measurement during moving and satic pose, we adopted the smoetometry and the flat pattern design of Shell made by plaster tape method. The results are as follws : 1. The items of length, both the side and the anterior shoulder point length wer greatly expanded owing to the arm movement. Expecially, the largest length was recorded at the up-motion. In items of breadth, the expansion of posterior breadth was a little larger, while the dorsal shoulder and the shoulder breadth were greatly contracted. 2. At the front lifting motion, the back side fo chest line was expanded at the rate of 20-32%, whereas both lateral and frontal sides showed contractive results, so it may be effective to add a little extra width to the back side area fo the chest line for funtional purpose. 3. At upward lifting motion, the side length was remarkablely expanded at rate of 64.0%. But the shoulder breadth became considerably narrow, and its rate of contraction was 46.5%. Therefore it is thougtht to be rational to add enougth extra width taking into account of the activity. 4. The armscye girth was observed the maximum value at the static pose, and its shape was changed from U-shape to arc as the movement became larger.
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