현대 패션에 나타난 래글런 슬리브의 패턴구성 특징에 관한 연구

신장희 한국의상디자인학회 2018 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.20 No.4

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies’ apparel market in the future.

비만 여자 고등학생의 체형분류에 관한 연구

신장희 인문사회 21 2023 인문사회 21 Vol.14 No.3

연구 목적: 본 연구는 청소년기 중 비만의 실태가 심각해 교복의 치수 만족도가 낮을 것으로 판단되는 고등학교 비만여학생을 대상으로 체형을 분석하고 유형화하여 각 체형별로 나타나는 그 특징을 파악하고자 하였다. 연구 방법: 비만여자 고등학생의 체형특징을 파악하고 체형을 분류하기 위하여 요인분석에서 얻어진 항목을 변수로 하여 군집분석을 실시하였다. 연구 내용: 본 연구에서는 여자 고등학생 교복 설계 시 필요한 신체치수 항목을 기반으로 여자 고등학생의 신체치수 및 비만 체형에 대하여 분석하였다. 결론 및 제언: 요인분석을 실시한 결과, 5개 요인이 추출되었으며 이를 통하여 비만 여고생의 체형이 3개의 유형으로 분류되었다. 불특정 다수의 청소년기 학생을 대상으로 치수만족도가 높은 교복을 제작하려면 체형요인 및 체형변화를 규명하기 위한 연구가 이루어져야 한다. 본 연구결과는 향후 3D 가상착의 시스템을 활용한 비만 여자고등학생의 교복 패턴개발을 위한 기초자료로 활용될 예정이다.

3D virtual clothing simulation을 활용한 여자 중학생의 브랜드교복 패턴비교 및 체형별 교복 패턴개발

신장희 한국의상디자인학회 2022 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.24 No.2

In terms of junior high school girls’ growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

현대 패션에 나타난 퍼프 슬리브의 패턴 특징에 관한 연구

신장희 한국의상디자인학회 2020 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.22 No.2

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, ‘dress’ (54.3%) was the highest, followed by ‘shirts/blouse’(27.5%), ‘jacket/coat’(12.5%), and ‘padded coat/jacket’(5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the ‘dress’ category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in ‘shirts/blouse’, ‘jacket/coat’ and ‘padded coat/jacket’, respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in ‘dress’ or ‘shirts/blouse’ than in a ‘padded coat/jacket’. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies’ apparel market in the future.

남자 중학생의 체형분류에 관한 연구

신장희 한국의상디자인학회 2019 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.21 No.3

Adolescence is a transitional stage of physical development which occurs during the period from puberty to adulthood. Going through this period, various parts of an adolescent’s body grow at different rates, leading to different body shapes and proportions when compared to adults. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the body sizes and shapes of junior high school boys from ages 13-15 based on body measurement items that are used as the basis for school uniform designs including jackets, shirts, and pants. For this, the study sought the basic data needed to develop body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school boys using the data from the 6th Size Korea Survey (2010). Specifically, it provided basic data for the development of school uniform patterns that fit well through the classification of bodies into particular types. After extracting body shape componen a cluster analysis using ANOVA was performed. According to the factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, 5 factors were obtained as follows: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: characteristics of horizontal size, Factor 5: shape of the upper body with a variance of 82.62%. To classify junior high school boys’ body shape was determined using various characteristics, and a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained by the factor analysis. For this, body shapes were classified into 3 different types: Type 1 accounted for 33.4%, with a total of 463 subjects. This type was a tall, long body individual with the smallest bulk and size. Type 2 accounted for 22.7%, with a total of 315 subjects. This type was large in bulk and horizontal size, but the lowest in height and length. Type 3 accounted for 43.9%, with a total of 610 subjects. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length, and height. To develop well-fitting school uniforms for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their associated causes. The study results will be available as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school boys and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.

국내 디자이너브랜드 업체의 패턴업무 실태 분석 : 입체재단을 중심으로 for Draping

신장희,나수임 服飾文化學會 2003 服飾文化硏究 Vol.11 No.2

The purpose of the study is to indentify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only. The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high quality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

삼각 다면체 모델을 이용한 효율적인 NC 공구경로 생성

신장희,박준영 동국대학교 산업기술연구원 1998 산업기술논문집 Vol.12 No.-

공구간섭 방지는 NC가공에 있어서 가장 중요한 문제중 하나이다. 최근에는 효율적인 간섭검사를 위하여 다면체 모델을 이용한 연구가 진행되고 있다. 옵셋기법은 다면체 모델을 이용한 잘 알려진 방법중 하나이다. 이 방법은 안정적으로 CL-data를 생성할 수 있지만, 옵셋다면체 생성과정이 많은시간이 소요된다. 본 연구에서는 복잡한 옵셋과정을 거치지 않고 CC-data로부터 CL-data를 생성할 수 있는 효율적인 알고리즘을 개발하였다. 그리고, 알고리즘 효율성을 입증하기 위하여 여러 다면체 모델에 적용하였다. Cutter interference is one of the most critical problems. Recently, for the efficience interference-check, the study used by the polyhedral model have been progressing. The offset method is one of the well-known method using the triangular polyhedral model. Though this method create CL-data robustly, the creation process of the offset polyhedron in much time consuming. Without the complex offset process, This study develop the efficient algorithm generating CL-data from CC-data. And, Apply the various polyhedral models to prove the algorithm efficiency.

여자 중학생의 체형분류에 관한연구 - 교복패턴개발을 중심으로 -

신장희 한국의상디자인학회 2020 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.22 No.3

In terms of junior high school girls’ growth patterns during early adolescence, are unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is nearly reached, growth patterns displayed are imbalanced and rapid. In fact, diverse size changes by body part growth occur significantly different from individual to individual. Therefore, it has been hard for junior high school students to select their proper size when buying school uniforms. This study attempted to acquire basic data needed to address adolescent body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school girls, using the data from the 7th Size Korea Survey (2015). Specifically, it provides basic data for the development of school uniform patterns through the classification of their body into particular types, After extracting body shape components and a cluster analysis using ANOVA. According to a factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, six factors were obtained: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: shape of upper body, Factor 5: lower drop, Factor 6: upper drop with a variance of 81.46%. To classify junior high school girls’ body shape and determine their characteristics, a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained using factor analysis. Body shape was classified into three different types: Type 1 accounted for 30.7%. This was a short, slender body with the smallest bulk, size, and upper drop. Type 2 accounted for 24.9%. This was the largest in bulk and horizontal size and highest and length as well. Type 3 accounted for 44.5%. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length and height, and high drop values. To develop school uniforms with great accuracy and body fit for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their causes. The study results can serve as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school girls and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.

20대 여성을 위한 재킷패턴 개발에 관한 연구

신장희(Jang-Hee Shin) 한국의상디자인학회 2014 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.16 No.3

슬랙스 봉제방법 비교연구

신장희(Jang-Hee Shin) 한국의상디자인학회 2017 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.19 No.2