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        • KCI등재

          대중문화 이론을 통해 본 복식 문화의 연구방법에 대한 연구

          엄소희,김문숙 服飾文化學會 1997 服飾文化硏究 Vol.5 No.1

          The purpose of this study is to present the study method in order to analysis the fashion phenomena in popular culture by popular culture theory. The method of this study is showed the method of fashion culture, after it was examined that the trends of popular cultural method, the type of Koran popular culture discussion, and the relationship of fashion and popular culture. The results of this study are following as: 1. Analysis of this study are structuralism stand and culturalism stand, and the application of criticism about the cultural technology in a new stand by means of the composition of Gramscic. A and Foucalul. 2. Application of the ethnographic access method as anthropological approach method about C. Geertz's culture. This is to describe and interpret the practice of subject through directive observation and conduct on a spot, thus is likely to be useful in the fashion study. 3. It needs a historical access method for that purpose, If it applicate Weber's methodology, it will have the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the basis of realistic conditions(historical data), and would appear that the peculiar apportunity of mental(cultural) progressional process became definitive explanation. 4. It must be made up of the discussion (which is) based on the durability of tradition and culture. It is undeniable that the discussion, which related to popular culture up to the present, showed the disconnectedness of the past tradition and culture, and naturally accepts it's connection to epepistemology. The cultural study is a theory interested in what it brings about, what way it's organized and what way it's used. The research of the fashion's connection to popular culture is composed of such topic : how fashion is produces, how it is consumed, and then, the proposition whic his concerned in what meaning it produce is made up of. The regulation of the realm of this research will be to help a researcher explain where to begin and how to do it. Although this cultural study method is more or less quantitative, or despite the expense of the accuracy of statistical analysis, this means that such method of cultural research needs to give attention to both aspects of phenomena and basic problems.

        • KCI등재
        • 청학동의 문화와 의복행동에 관한 연구

          이경화,한명숙 복식문화학회 2001 服飾文化硏究 Vol.9 No.1

          Chunghahk-dong is located in a retired spot Jiri Mountain and has been built up. its own religion and culture thout any exchange outside world. People in Chunghahk-dong believe in a religion called Genjungyutaosim. Forming a trinity on which mind is Taoism, body is Buddhism, and behavior is confucianism. These are the principle elements to form a village. They made their own unique cultural factor such as longhaired boys and girls, wearing traditional cloths and hat, a monastic life, fDlk mores and family rituals, and private school system, This shows a great deal of affection on their life style and organization and is closely connected with community and culture. Grasping a culture and behavior on clothing, it has purpose to understand Chunghahk-dong properly according to this study. A method of study has a purpose to understand culture and clothing behavior precisely in Chunghahk-dong. 1 inquire into clothing behavior with investigation and study of picture script. The results are as followed; People in Chunghahk-dong show unique clothing and hair style behavior based on Genjungyutao. First, men and women wear a white cloth called HanBok(Korean costume) and footwear made of rubber, Only men wear a blue vest. A grown up men wear a long coat when they go out. They are dressed in tractional cloth for a ceremonial occasion. The reason why they put on the HanBok(Korean costume) is a belief on our traditional cloth becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea become a leading county in the world. This clothing behavior is symbol of Genjungyutao and has a role of delivery system fur expressing their split. Second, In sign of being a Genjungyutao men, they let their grow hair Cutting hair is not to be a Genjungyutao men any more. There is few reason that people in Chunghahk-dong let grow their hair : First, because of importance in TanGun's ideology, they believe Korea is a first nation in the world and can't cut their hair which has grown from TanGun(The founding father of the Korean nation) Chosun traditionally. Second, Cutting their hair runs counter to the principle of nature. Third, They value their body for confucianism. They don't want to damage their body because of body firom their parents, Boys and girls braid and tie up their hair and adult tie a topknot and a chignon. Wearing a YouGun(A horsehair skullcap) at home and a Kat(A Korean top hat) when going out, they express as a Genjungyutao. Hemp cloth and synthetic fibers are main clothes. Also, they wear an improved HanBok(Korean costume) these days on influencing outside.

        • 복식의 상징주의적 특성에 관한 연구 : 근대복식(1880~1910년대)과 현대복식(1990년대)을 중심으로

          김현주,김문숙 복식문화학회 2001 服飾文化硏究 Vol.9 No.2

          The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics of symbolism as an important trend of the end of centuries, by comparing the symbolic characteristics from two periods, modern(1850∼1910s) and contemporary(1990s), based on the typical characteristics of symbolic art by Robert R. Delevoy. As for the study method, the contents analysis is adopted to present an objective data analysis and interpretation accompanied by theoretical approach through literature survey. Delevoy classifies symbolism into three categories such as mysticism, eroticism, and decorativeness. This study is developed based on the Delevoy's three categories. Symbolistic costume reflecting systems of the society and the phases of the times, became to contain all aspects of functional, symbolic, and practical. Especially, the costume in contemporary era adopted a new approach, philosophical factors controlling human's sensibility, and a sincere and analytical attitude on progress of technology. This study provide the fact that costume is a part to create aesthetic of self-expression as a field of formative art. Contemporary costume allows vital power for daily life of human by pursuing new aesthetic value, and it expresses inner world of human and moves on future-oriented to regain humanity. The symbolistic characteristics will continue to influence various aspects of our society and play a main role in shaping the purpose of fashion design in the 21st century. Key words : symbolism, mysticism, eroticism, decorativeness.

        • KCI등재

          滿州服飾語彙의 比較 硏究

          金鎭玖 服飾文化學會 1994 服飾文化硏究 Vol.2 No.2

          This study is concerned with a comparative linguistic analysis of the fManchu costume terminologies. The Manchu costume terminoloties revealed the elements Hebrew, Norweygian, English, Assyrian, Chinese, Americna Indian, Sanskrit, Tatar, Turkestan, Greek, Arabic, Indian, Kashmiri. The most influential elements of the Manchu costume terminologies were the Chinese costume terminologies. Specifically, the elements of the Chinese costume terms were found in the terminologies of the fabrics, the gems and the precious stones. Also the influence of the Mongolic costume on the Manchucostume terminologies appeared in this study.

        • KCI등재

          20세기 스페이스 에이지 패션과 테크노-사이버 패션의 패러다임적 특성에 관한 연구

          金文淑,文信愛 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.6

          The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism sharacter. Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material, First, a innovatory choice, Second, an active motion, Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source the form design in 21C.

        • KCI등재
        • KCI등재

          베링(Bering)해협 연안 지역의 복식의 동질성에 관한 연구- Alaska 서북 지역과 Siberia 동북지역을 중심으로 -

          金文淑 복식문화학회 1997 服飾文化硏究 Vol.5 No.4

          Deprivation of means to study the cultures and history of the natilres of Bering Strait in their own lands, gives us and especially U.S. A. and Russia - where the objective regions of this study is pertained to - the great suffering of intellectual and aesthetic losses. Throughout 20th century, as political and economic forces prevailed, it became increasingly difficult for both Natives and outsiders to see this region as having common past. In such difficult circumstances, United Nations Council for Environmental Development held at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in June, 1992 started out to give obligations to present environmental future. With such trend getting stronger and being in demand, this study is also focussed on harmonizing with the environment. Thus cultures and civilization of Bering Strait region coincides with such environmental matters and differs from man centered western civilization which ruled the environment rather than to harmonize with it. Through the studies of fashions and cultural materials of this region, it was able to identify the great similarities between Northwestern Alaska and Northeastern Siberia. Especially in the clothing materials of this region's toy dolls, it was possible to confirm that both side of Bering Strait possessed similar culture. Although both side had similar environment, in the past its peoples began to be seen as separate and alienated aligned only with their current political state-Russia and U.S.A. Through this study, it was able to see diversity of the peoples and thin languages but also close cultural and historical ties that link them very closely together. This study verified such similarities and common characteristics through close examination of Native clothing and decorations and other traditions o( Siberian Natives such as Yupik. Chukchi, Koryak, Even, Amur River peoples and Nivkh ; and Alaskan Natives such as Inupiag. Yupik, Alutiig, Aleut, Athapaskan, and Tlingit

        • KCI등재

          종교 전파에 따른 복식 변용에 대한 연구 -인도, 인도네시아 복식에 반영된 이슬람 복식의 영향을 중심으로-

          신혜성 ( Hey Sung Shin ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.3

          The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

        • KCI등재

          服飾의 意味機能에 관한 硏究

          韓明淑 服飾文化學會 1995 服飾文化硏究 Vol.3 No.1

          The aim of thesis is to analyze dress phenomena, the semantic function and meaning of clothing were respectively on the basis of Semantics and Society by Geoffrey Leech and mentalistic semantics. To comprehend the actual clothing behaviour better, the pictures taken on the streets were used, including all kinds of the western-style and the traditional Korean costumes in Korea. The followings are the findings of the analysis. As in language, the semantic funtions of the clothing are the informational, the expressive, the directive, the aesthetic, and the phatic functions. They communicate operating simultaneously. The clothing is the mentalistic semantics.

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