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설정화 한국의류산업학회 2004 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.6 No.1
The purpose of this study was to obtain the basic element of patterns, which is the motif, from the existing art works and use it to create and simulate a variety of patterns to show the practical use of the computer. Natural dyed works of geometric shapes like squares and 1/4 of circles, each dyed with a different natural dyes, were produced and motifs were extracted. Then using the 4D box in Adobe Photoshop v.6.0, the developing pattern change and simulation effects when using different patterns and different repetition settings were examined. Observations were made as the motifs were replicated. Different patterns like a diagonal line, a square and a circle appeared. In order to find out the effects according to the changes, the motifs from work's square portions, circle centre, and the composition of eight motifs were extracted and used. The repeated patterns according to the extracted motifs simply showed that in the case of just repeating and arranging, square patterns appeared. By replicating and arranging, the motif and the allophone were matched and patterns with regular lines were formed, like a twill, pointed twill line. By setting the direction to Y and X in the repetition methodes, a typical half-drop arrangement or a brick pattern arrangement were formed according to 1/ 4, 2/4, 3/4, 1/3, or 2/3 in changes. Also the steepness of the slope changes quickly or in turn slowly as the rhombus shape appears. However in the case of a composed motif, an ogee pattern appeared. Lastly, by 3-D mapping patterns like a slant line, pointed twill patterns, diamond patterns, and the repeat patterns of a motif with a circle and a line combined, and a circle motif, an optical illusion could be observed.
鄭斗鎭,薛貞華,崔錫哲 한국의류학회 1985 한국의류학회지 Vol.9 No.2
In this study, when cotton fabrics dyed with Direct dyes are treated under various resin concentration 2,4,8,12,14% with ureaformaldehyde(UF) and melamineformaldehyde(MF) resin which can be imparted the crease recovery to textiles, chang of properties on lightfastness. washfastness, crease recovery, breaking strength, etc. and color changes are investigated. the results are as follows 1) Color difference(ΔE) increased but K/S value decreased according to the increase of resin conc. such tendency showed that MF treated fabrics and soaping fabrics were evident than OF treated fabrics and non-soaping fabrics. 2) In lightfastness, ΔE and K/S value of resin treated fabrics were reduced as compared with untreated fabrics according to the increase ofresin cone. The lower ΔE and K/S value of MF than ΔE and K/S value of OF showed low lightfastness of MF. pH of resin treted fabrics was almost unaffected with lightfastness. 3) In washfastness, ΔE and K/S value of resin treated fabrics decreased slightly as compared with untreated fabricsaccording tothe increase of resin cone. The ΔE and K/S value of MF decreased lower than UF. But in the case of the higher resin cone. than about 8%, they were not almost differentiated. 4) As resin cone. increased, crease recovery considerably increased but breaking strength and elongation decreased. The fabrics treated with OF were good crease recovery, whereas the fabrics treated with MF were good breaking strength. 5) Soaping appeared to improve the lightfastness, washfastness, crease recovery but appeared to work adverse effect on breaking strength.
정진순,설정화 한국의류학회 2002 한국의류학회지 Vol.26 No.2
This study investigated color change of combination dyeing silk fabrics dyed with Turmeric extracts and Gardenia extracts after dyeing of Indian indigo. Experimental variables include the condition of dyeing time and concentration of Turmeric extracts, Gardenia extracts, and dyeing cycle of Indian indigo. Surface color of silk fabrics dyed with Turmeric extracts after one cycle dyeing, two cycles dyeing, four cycles dyeing of Indian indigo was changed from 5.1GY to 0.3GY, 1.5G to 3.5GY and 6.5G to 5.8GY by increase of concentration of Turmeric extracts. On the other hand, Surface color of silk fabrics dyed with Gardenia extracts after one cycle dyeing, two cycles dyeing, four cycles dyeing of Indian indigo was changed from 7.5Y to 3.9Y, 1.2GY to 6.7Y and 4.0GY to 8.6GY by increase of concentration of Gardenia extracts. Its range of surface color was changed to green and yellowish green by increase of dyeing time with concentration of Turmeric extracts. On the other hand, its range of surface color was changed to yellowish and yellow by increase of dyeing time with concentration of Gardenia extracts.
정진순,설정화,장정대 한국의류학회 2003 한국의류학회지 Vol.27 No.3,4
In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by IR spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness to the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at 2417㎝^(-1), C-H at 2930㎝^(-1), C-O at 1722^(-1), C=C at 1644㎝^(-1), CH₂ at 1402㎝^(-1). And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at 3409㎝^(-1), C-H at 3003㎝^(-1) and 2933㎝^(-1), C=O at 1701㎝^(-1), C=C at 1582㎝^(-1), CH₂ at 1401㎝^(-1), CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at 1287㎝^(-1) and 1135㎝^(-1). The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were 80℃, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y. Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, △E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre-and post-mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, △E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre-and post-mordanted fabrics.