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폴리에스테르 필라멘트 재봉사의 왁스 부착량이 가봉성에 미치는 영향
장정대,최석철 한국섬유공학회 1997 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.34 No.12
Polyester filament sewing thread was treated with wax. The sewability was evaluated from the maximum speed of the sewing machine, with which the T/C woven fabric could be sewn over four meters long without thread breakage. The frictional coefficient measured by Capstan method. The frictional coefficient depended on the wax content, the frictional speed, and the temperature of frictional body. It decreased abruptly in the 0~0.3% range of the wax content, and kept the increasing according to the wax content increment. The sewability was improved very much in the 0~0.3% range, and kept the highest level at 1.3% of the wax content. It was suppressed with the excessive wax content.
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견의 황변억제에 관한 연구 : 메탄올 및 희박염산처리에 의한 견피브로인의 내부구조전이가 황변억제에 미치는 영향
장정대 한국의류산업학회 2002 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.4 No.2
Degummed silk from Bombyx mori was dissolved in 9.3M lithium bromide solution. The regenerated silk fibroin films were completely a-randomcoil type as shown by x-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. The structural changes in silk fibroin induced by immersion into methanol and dilute hydrochloric acid and its photo-yellowing effect was studied. The changes of crystallinity were measured by infrared spectrometer. Yellowness index caused by ultraviolet irradiation were observed as a function of the structural change on silk fibroin. On treatment with methanol, α-randomcoil silk film is converted to the β-form structure. After the treatment of hydrochloric acid on β-form structure in silk induced by immersion into methanol, β-form in silk fibroin is partially decreased. Crystallization owing to β-form transition reduced the initial yellowness index by ultrviolet irradiation. A little β-form structure in silk fibroin increased the initial yellowness in comparision with more β-form structure.
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장정대 부산여자대학 1986 釜山女子專門大學 論文集 Vol.8 No.-
Inorder to understand the relation between skill index and productivity in garment manufacturing. Number of production, number of feed back, number of defective goods in sewing process were investigated for 10 days in two lines with different skill index, and the amount of production, and added value were Calculated. The Conclusion obtained from this study was as follow. An added value per worker in more skillful line has 4190won ofter reduction of his pay in a day. According to this result, It is more profitable that manager empoly the skilled worker
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張貞戴 부산여자대학 1991 釜山女子專門大學 論文集 Vol.13 No.-
Mechenical properties of sewing thread by high speed sewing machine with many kinds of fabric and sewing thread were investigated. Transition of tensile properties on sewing thread were discussed. Tensile strength of sewing thread by high speed sewing procss were decreased. spun sewing thread is more great than filament on rate of strength decrease. More elongation of sewing thread have less loss of tensile strength, poor elongation of sewing thread have more loss of tensile strength. Seam puckering is due to elongation of sewing thread. Sewability of core spun thread is excellent. The more weight of fabric has on the same kind of fabric, the more loss of strenght mcrease.
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저온 및 고온에서 Poly(ethylene Terephthalate)섬유의 연신이 미세구조에 미치는 영향(Ⅰ)
張貞戴 부산여자대학 1989 釜山女子專門大學 論文集 Vol.11 No.-
In this study, polyester filaments were drawn at 50 and 2000C at four different draw ratios(2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0) Cristallinity, crystallite size, degree of Orientation were investigated using X - ray diffraction, Intrared spectroscopy, birefringence. the densities were determined using the floatation technique. the f10wing results were obtained ; (1) As the draw ratio increases, the crystallinity, density and degree of orientation also increase. Because drawing induces alignment of chain segments in the Crystalline region and crystalliza-‘ - m (2) crystallinity and degree of orientation are higher for the drawn fiber at high drawing temperature, having the same draw ratio thermomechanical process at high drawing temperature induces crystallization by rotation and alignment of chain along the direction of the fiber axis. (3) the crystallite size increases according to higher drawing temperature and draw ratio, Though the mode of structural deformation at low and high temperature is different.
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견의 결정성에 관한 연구 (I)-산 가수분해 견 피브로인의 결정성에 대하여-
장정대,최석철 한국섬유공학회 1993 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.30 No.10
Four kinds of silk fibers. three mulberry silks from Korea, China and Brasil and one Chinese Tussah silk have been hydrolyzed in 5% HCI solution at 95 $\pm$1$^{\circ}C$ at different time intervals. The change of weight loss, hydrolysis rates, and crystallinity of the silt fibers was measured. Crystallize size, X-ray order factor, and IR crystallinity index have been determined fur the control and 3 hour-hydronbroins. The results arc discussed in connection with the fine structure of the crystalline region of the silk fibroin. The conclusions obtained from this study are as follows: 1. The hydrolysis rate of the silk fibroin in the 5% HCI solution has been changed at three stages, and hydrolysis rate constant(t) was in inverse proportion to the amount of the crystalline region. The three-stage hydrolysis was explained on the basis of the three-phase structure of the silk fiber. 2. As the silk fibroin changed to the hydrofibroin by HCI treatment for 3 hours, the crystallite size increased. 3. t in the crystalline region was in inverse proportion to the crystallite size. 4. The order factor the crystallinity index, and total crystallinity indicated different values in connection with degree of crystallinity. 5. The crystallinity of the mulberry silk was greater than that of the Tussah silk.
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장정대 한국의류학회 1999 한국의류학회지 Vol.23 No.7
The experiment was conducted on five different kinds of fabrics dyed with loess. The sewability of fabrics dyed with loess by measuring the maximum needle piercing forces(MPF) through fabrics has been studied. MPF measurement using tensile tester was done 60 times for each fabrics at fixed low speed of 300㎜/min. The nature of the loess on the dyed fabrics was physically jammed between the fibers or adhered to the surface of fibers in the form of the fine particles, so that the MPF through fabrics increases extremely in proportion to the increase of loess uptake, and the plying number of fabrics dyed with loess. This results indicate that the MPF through fabrics is affected by mean value of the coefficient of friction on the surface of fabric(MIU) and cloth cover factor(Kc) in this experiment. Fabric was finished with softner to decrease the MPF during sewing operation, The MPF through softner finished fabric was decreased remarkably.
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