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백영자 德成女子大學校 1977 德成女大論文集 Vol.5-6 No.-
From the Period of King Tae-Jone up to the third year of King In-Jo, the beetowal eystem for queen's court dresses from the Myeong Dynasty was one which was much lower than that of China. This system was applied to the pueens court dresses in the eariy Yi Dynasty. The pheasant's patern on Jeockwan and Hapee Probably indicates that Daesam was possibly regarded as Jeockyoe. In fact, according to Kaeredogam, Jeockyoe was for the first time made in the third year of King Kwanghae, which is the oldest record on Jeockyoe and Daesam. AAt the age of King Seon-Jo, a new type of queen s clothing was taken as an inevitable result of Japanese Invasio. Jeockyoe system was gradually made ceremonious until the period of King Yeong-Jo through Kakhonjeongye and Kukuosokoryeyeobo : it became that of Queen Myeong-Jo's in the end. The traditional Jeockyoe system might have been interblended with Daesam. yeodae was queen s usual dress and its Pattern was the same as that of every women s dresses it Court.
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백영자,Baek Young Ja 한국의류학회 1977 한국의류학회지 Vol.1 No.2
From the period of King Tae-Jong up to the third year of King In-Jo, the bestowal system for queen's court dresses from the Myeong Dynasty was one which was much lower than that of China. This system was applied to the queens' court dresses in the early Yi Dynasty. The pheasant's pattern on Jeockwan and Hapee probably indicates that Daesam was possibly regarded as Jeockyoe. In fact, according to Kaeredogam, Jeockyoe was for the first time made in the third year of King Kwanghae, which is the oldest record on Jeockyoe and Daesam. At the age of King Seon-Jo, a new type of queen's clothing was taken as an inevitable result of Japanese Invasion. Jeockyoe system was gradually made ceremonious until the period of King Yeong-Jo through Kakhonjeongye and Kukjosokoryeycobo; it became that of Queen Myeong-Jo's in the end. The traditional Jeockyoe system might have been interblended with Daesam. Yeodae was queen's usual dress and its pattern was the same as that of every women's dresses at Court.
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백영자,김정진 한국의류학회 1990 한국의류학회지 Vol.14 No.2
This study investigates, through the Ka-rae-ban-cha-do(嘉禮班次圖) in the Ka-rae-do-gameui-gue (嘉禮都監儀軌) , how the system of costume used in ceremony exchanged during the middle, late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization. The procedure of the royal marriage is also studied here. The procedures of Ka-rae were divided into the six traditional etiguettes(六禮) : Nap-che(納采), Nap-gyng(納徵), Go-gi(告期), Chaik-bi(冊妃), Chin-young(親迎), and Dong-roe(同牢). The change of the general structure and characteristic of the costume used in the ceremony in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do are as follows: The costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do can be divided into the Guard costume (扈衛服飾) and the Ceremonial arms costume(儀狀服飾). The most formal attire of the Guard costume, Yangkwan-Chobok (梁冠-朝服) and Samo -Damyeong(紗帽-團領) with Huygpai(胸背) can be seem only in the Ka-rae of late king's. Of the Ceremonial arms costume, the most outstanding was Hongkun-Hongeui(紅巾-紅衣), which showed up in almost all Ka-rae-ban-cha-do. Heukkun-Changos·eogrei(黑巾-창옷·더그레) were worn as well. In the style of costume emphasis convenience and practicality rather than on beauty, because they had to carry the arms used in ceremony with them nevertheless by using primary colors it was very colorful. This costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do has little difference, but great changes are shown in Sunjongsunjongbi Ka-rae-ban-cha-do(純宗純宗妃嘉禮班次圖) Most costume of the past was replaced with western hat and suit, so the duplicate state of our costume and western costume came into existence during the period of introducing western civilization.
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가예도감을 통해 본 법복(적의)의 부수복식과 의대(노의, 장삼)에 관한 연구
백영자,Baek Yang Ja 한국의류학회 1978 한국의류학회지 Vol.2 No.1
This study is a latter series of 'A Study on the Changes of Court Dresses in the Yi Dynasty' (see Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 1. No. 2. 1977), and tries to discuss the additional clothing style--- Hapee(하피), Mal(말), Sang(상), Daedae(대대), Pesle(폐슬) and Seock(석) as well as how to obtain the textile fabric used in queens' wedding ceremony and Noeyoe(노의) and Jangsam(장삼). Through Karedogam(가예도감), it can be found that as queen's casual dress gold-round-pattern Noeyoe(금원문노의) was used, and the royal princesses wore Dan Noeyoe(단노의). Noeyoe was long in back and short in front and it was very luxurious with the two-phoenix pattern. Jangsam was queens' casual dress, and the royal princesses wore simple and double Jangsam. In public, the wives of the officials above the 5th-Class in status wore Jangsam; Noeyoe is a higher-class dress than Jangsam.
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조선왕조 鹵簿(어가행렬) 儀禮에 관한 硏究 : 형식구조의 파악을 중심으로 Focusing on the Analysis of the Systems
白英子 한국의류학회 1989 한국의류학회지 Vol.13 No.2
This study was undertaken to discuss the frameworks of the gorgeous and magnificent royal procession ceremonies in the Yi Dynasty, thereby exploring the classification systems of "three stages and five segments" on the basis of cultural anthropology and Korean traditional shamanism of ancestral sacrifices. The ceremonies were classified into three phases of (1) cleanup stage, (2) primary objective attendance stage, and (3) completing stage. Among these phases, p. mary objective attendance stage was further distributed into five segments of (1) road guide, (2) dressing, (3) royal procession, (4) attendants' procession, and (5) back row procession. The isolates and functions of the royal procession ceremonies in the Yi Dynasty were studied through the application of Levi Strauss's structural methodology.
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嘉禮都監을 通해 본 法服(翟衣)의 附隨服飾과 衣 (露衣, 長衫)(露衣,長衫)에 관한 硏究
白英子 한국의류학회 1978 한국의류학회지 Vol.2 No.1
This study is a latter series of "A Study on the Changes of Court Dresses in the Yi Dynasty" (see Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 1, No. 2. 1977), and tries to discuss the additional clothing style--- Hapee(해피), Mal(襪), Sang(裳), Daedae(大帶), Pesle(蔽膝) and Seock(鳥) as well as how to obtain the textile fabric used in queens' wedding ceremony and Noeyoe(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫). Through Karedogam(家禮都監), it can be found that as queen's casual dress gold-round-pattern Noeyoe(金圓紋露衣) was used, and the royal princesses wore Dan Noeyoe(單露衣). Noeyoe was long in back and short in front and it was very luxurious with the two-phoenix pattern. Jangsam was queens' casual dress, and the royal princesses wore simple and double Jangsam. In public, the wives of the officials above the 5th-Class in status wore Jangsam; Noeyoe is a higherclass dress than Jangsam.
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