한국인의 의생활변천

고복남 숙명여자대학교 학생위원회 1984 淑大學報 Vol.24 No.-

朝鮮朝初期의 女子服飾

高福男 淑明女子大學校 亞細亞女性問題硏究所 1982 아시아여성연구 Vol.21 No.-

The costumes of the early Chosun Dynasty was becomming to manners and customs in those days, and have functions making distinction between higher classes and lower ones. Above those costumes, especially, the women's one is very important to debate on traditional costumes as it keep up with the elements of custom. The costumes of the early Chosun Dynasty can be classified as two types; the basic costumes, the courtesy and specific costumes. The basic ones compose with choˇgori and ch'ima, besides headgears, head-decorations,. foot wears and underwears. This basic style changes in its type, material, pattern and color. The choˇgori of that era has the shape of long-length and wide width. So we can say the choˇgori was riot shortened in the time of Koryo Dynasty. The Ch'ima have four types as follows; padded one, quilted one, two-folded one and single ch' ima Contemporary type is two-folded one and it's shape is the same as that of the early chosun Dynasty. The courtesy costumes have functions to classify the ranks of those eras. It was one of the rest important thing to ray down courtesy costumes because of that era would be considered as courtesy society. In this paper, I have discussed various costumes of the women's of the early Chosun Dynasty from the historical view point, with stress on the more relics of costumes of that era. I have shown various diagrams and some illustrations to help understand of that era. From these it can be observed that there were constant elements in style and structure between the basic costumes and the courtesy and specific ones. However some items of that era can be definited by this paper.

朝鮮王朝의 服飾定制硏究

高福男 淑明女子大學校 1983 論文集 Vol.24 No.-

The costume of Chosun Dynasty have done duty as support of rank and order of that society. The reason to make costume regime in making rule and system of a nation is to be definite the order of that society and save the national treasury. And another is to respect of people. Especially it have density on ceremony that costume of Chosun Dynasty. That period put in good order by making costume regime and it was one of the guide post to classify the higher level and lower one. So the courtesy costume means conviciton to the wearer and the viewer can be acknowledge the meaning of courtesy by feeling. The main reason to make regime in Chosun Dynasty was to invoid from wrong former period, and to be a rule to later period to be not waste by the regime. In case of the mistake in partly on the regime, then they can use it by discussion with minister and the king. The beginning of costume regime of Chosun Dynasty is same as the beginning of that dynasty. The main event of Costume Regime of Chosun Dynasty are: 1. It is the general intention to abide by rule, and there was also exception to the rule. 2. They cannot make the costume by regime on financial grounds. 3. It have sometimes mistakes to make it carry out even though on perfect regime. 4. The main object of making costume regime was to do with former period and do with custom. And we can find out to understand the costnme regime, we must observe the real meterial of that period. And the costume regime is one of the important material to study on the costume.

韓服의 着用實態 : 1976年度를 中心으로

高福男 西原大學校 1977 西原大學 論文集 Vol.6 No.-

The Study on Korean Traditional Costume has made much progress in the field of history of Korean costume by many other scholars. In spite of these historical concern with Korean costume, the modernity of it seems to be overlooked. For this reason, the writer made a survey of measure of Korean costume, and now intends to investigate and analyse the present wearing of Korean costume. The main subjects based on this survey are: 1. The number of Korean costume which women wear. 2. The motivation of wearing Korean costume and the time. 3. manufactures of Korean costume. 4. Functions of Korean costume. 1) The practical side. 2) The sanitary side. 3) The degree of satisfaction of outward appearance. 4) The relativity of Korean costume of the seasons. 5) The degree of comfort of Korean costume. 6) The usuage of Korean costume. 5. The regional differences of Korean costume. I have investigated these by way of inquiries. These inquiries are practiced in three areas [the central city of province, one city(Eup), one town(myun)] selected from each province in Korea. As a result, it is known that there are differences in the frequency of wearing Korean costume and the degree of concern withit between the women in urban and rural areas, and that more women wear Korean costumein rural areas. In view of this trend, the proportion of wearing Korean costume becomes Iowerthan that of western costume, but the concern with Korean costume seems to increase. The writer infers the reason from the revivalism that people, driven by the western tide, now wish to find the ancient.

朝鮮時代 一般服飾의 硏究

高福男 西原大學校 1980 西原大學 論文集 Vol.9 No.-

If you wish to know about Korean traditional costumes, you should first of all pay attention to those worn everyday, because this will help you better understand the transition of national culture from ancient times. Such a study, like most others, depends heavily on the availability of actual materials. Fortunately, many cultural relics have been excavated in recent years. Most of such excavated materials belong to the Yi Dynasty era, probably because of the burial system that prevailed during the kingdom which was under the heavy influence of Confucianism. The archaeological finds from Yi Dynasty tombs are characteristically different from those of the preceding dynasties in that they are mostly costumes including shrouds(burial suits). Thanks to the construction briskly taking place throughout the country in recent years as a result of rapid economic development, a considerable number of mummies and costumes have been accidentally excavated, allowing us the opportunity to observe the costumes of our ancestors which were rather rare until then. I have undertaken a folkloristic study of contemporary Korean costumes throughout the country, and found that contemporary costumes have not drastically changed from those of the past. However, there were some important transformation through the ages, and I felt the necessity to investigate them. At the same time, I realized that the recently excavated costumes could be the missing links in the study of traditional costumes. Here I intend to discuss the transition in everyday Korean costumes, with stress on the excavated costumes which have not as yet been introduced to the public. In as much as most of these excavated costumes belong to the Yi Dynasty era, we will study everyday costumes of that era with the aid of photographs and drawings. Korean social culture has been handed down through 40 centuries of history. Traditional costumes have developed in the course of that cultural transition. The costumes of the past were influenced by forein style on the one hand but at the same time they retained the basic patterns of the previous generations and thus reflected a basic resistance to foreign culture. This phenomenon can be seen in other areas of life also. This latter characteristic allows us to understand the basic design of Korean costumes as it has been handed down from Ancient Chosun. This means that there have been detail changes added to a certain pattern. I believe that we can discover a fundamentally unchangeable pattern in the actual costumes of the past. I believe also that such patterns have been bequeathed to date and so will they be in the future. In such patterns we can observe a facet of the Korean mentality, because the costumes of man are highly reflective of spiritual power. Contemporary Korean costumes consist of trousers called paji and a jacket called chogori for men, and a skirt called ch'ima and bolero called chogori for women, besides underwear and outer garments for both sexes. This basic style was true to the costumes of the Yi Dynasty and earlier eras. Therefore the Korean costume as handed down from ancient generations can be regarded as our basic attire. In this paper, I have discussed excavated costumes from the historical viewpoint, with stress on the more popularly used clothes. I have shown illustrations of 52 articles to help understand the costumes of the Yi Dynasty. From these it can be observed that there were no basic differences in style and structure between the p'o and chogori of a king and those of the common people. However royal costumes may have been more intricate in material, ornaments and tailoring. This is almost the same as today. In other words, like in the democratic society today, there was no distinction in the basic design of costumes in the old days. It is believed that, therefore, the royal household and the upper class saw the necessity of importing special alien costumes for themselves, and thereby created a dual costume system. Today, when all people are supposed to be equal, alien costumes from the West coexist, and are used along with the Korean traditional ones. Both categories and used by everyone today without discrimination or restriction. This writer believes that the unique costumes handed down through thousands of years in this country will be passed on infinitely while continually developing.

朝鮮時代 女子衣服의 變遷에 대한 數値的 硏究

高福男 淑明女子大學校 亞細亞女性問題硏究所 1984 아시아여성연구 Vol.23 No.-

This study is an attempt to define stylistic changes in an objective and quantitative manner. That dress fashions were chosen for investigation, rather than work of pure or industrial art, is due to the greater case of obtaining real material which is not only fairly abundant but strictly comparable from century to century. It consists of Choˇgori, ch'i-ma, outwear and underwear those women's dress of chosun Dynasty Women's dress has fullfilled a fairly constant function for centuries. The function of dress can be observed on practical, structual and decorative aspects. This paper provides a convenient and promising set of data for a study of problem of how stylistic or aesthetic changes prove to take place when they are examined quantitatively instead of through subjective intuition or feeling. The number of dresses dealt with three; choˇgori, dangu˘i, ch'ima. The materials contains as follows : ① Choˇgori-from 1440 to 1910 years, 64 items. ② Dangui-from 1520 to 1910 years, 14 items. ③ Chi'ma-from 1920 to 1910 years, 13 items. All the measurements were made on real material in millimeters. To render them comparable, they had to be reduced to a common standard, means, standard deviations, correlation matrix. And we can get results as follows: ① the means of width of choˇgori was 24.69㎝. ② the length of choˇgori was 42.61㎝ and it became shorter at the era of last Chosun Dynasty. ③ The length of sleeve did not change through the eras of Chosun Dynasty. ④ the width and length of collar became narrower and shorter at the last era. ⑤ the width and length of string became wider and longer. ⑥ the width and length did not change through the era of Chosun Dynasty. ⑦ the width and length had relationship in size.

한복의 치수에 대한 연구

고복남 한국복식학회 1977 服飾 Vol.1 No.-

몸뻬에서 디스코 바지까지

高福男 세계평화교수협의회 1984 廣場 Vol.1984 No.125

한국 고유의상의 멋

고복남 일념 1994 교수아카데미총서 Vol.7 No.1

한국의 고유의상이라면 남자의 바지, 저고리, 조끼, 마고자, 두루마기 등과 여자의 치마, 저고리, 두루마기를 꼽는 데 이의가 없을 것이다. 그것은 한국의 전통의복이나 민족복이라고도 하고, 현재는 일반적으로 한복이라고도 한다. 한국 고유의상을 착용해 온 사람은 한국인이고, 현재의 한국 고유의상은 과거의 선조들로부터 계승되어 온 것이다. 따라서 이 고유의상은 시대에 따라 의상의 構成線이나 색, 실루엣 silhouette등이 변천해 왔다. 현재의 한국의상은 현대의 한국인의 정서에 맞추어 변화된 것이고, 과거의 한국 의상에 그 기반을 둔다. 그것은 역사를 가진 민족으로서 긍지를 느낄 수 있는 한 요소가 되는 것이다. 그래서 우리는 세계의 어느 민족복에 비교해도 가장 아름다운 옷으로서 우리의 고유의상을 자랑할 수 있다. 다시 말해서 한국의 고유의상이란 한국의 역사 속에서 전승되어 온 한민즉 문화의 일부인 것이다.

朝鮮中期의 服飾變遷에 대한 要因分析

高福男 淑明女子大學校 1984 論文集 Vol.25 No.-

It is ofen said by those who know the Korean History that the Middle Era of Chosun Dynasty belongs most fluctuations and change time. In addition, we can get aware of epochal fashion change through the history of Korean Costume. I tried to prove the elements and principle of fashion change in the Middle Era of Chosun Dynasty, so first of all I inquired into the historical change of that Era. In the first half of the Era that began in 15 to 16 Century, and the middle began in 17 to 18 century, and the last era began 19 century to present times, Each of the times has its own real meterial, so we can catch out the changing form of each times. Researching on that, there were epochal change in fashion, so we need to find out the manner and elements of fashion types. Their very magnitude dwarfs the influence which any individual can possively have exerted in an alteration of costume. One the existence of tendencies or forces transcending the limits of organically inherited personality is thus admitted, the entire field of the history of civilization becomes disputable ground for the two conflicting interpretations. To be sure the characteristics of that fashion, I devided in three parts of dress; functional, structual and aesthetical point. The elements of dress fashion of the Middle Era of chosun Dynasty would be part in erternal and internal factors. The external factors consist of change of climates, switching of civilization, transformation of economy and policy, formation of clique, ascension of status, dispersion of manual trade, and the internal one is psychological factors. The principles of fashion change consists of gradually change of dress, observance of basic form, predominance of courtesy dress, change of retrogression, degeneration of unnecessary part of dress. At any rate, no insistence on the aspects of elements and principle can find out the main reason of that era.