쪽 염료의 환원조건에 따른 섬유소 직물의 염색성과 색채특성

신주동,최종명 복식문화학회 2016 服飾文化硏究 Vol.24 No.6

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

연두색 천연염색 견직물의 색채특성과 감성요인이 선호도에 미치는 영향: 쪽과 괴화의 복합염색을 중심으로

신주동,김여원,최종명 한국감성과학회 2018 감성과학 Vol.21 No.1

This study was performed in order to suggest useful data for color planning of eco-friendly and sensible fashion products. Silk fabrics were dyed in combination with natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kinds of mordants after combination dyeing. Then, their colorimetric properties were evaluated. From these composite-dyed silk fabrics, color sensibilities and color preferences of green yellow (GY) color were evaluated among the female university students, and thus, the influences of colorimetric properties and color sensibilities on color preferences were analyzed. When the silk fabrics were dyed in the combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated without mordants, they turned green color when indigo 10 g/L was used, and blue-green when indigo 20 g/L was added. And when they were dyed in combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kind of mordants after combination dyeing, they turned GY color in almost all cases. The color sensibilities of the GY silk fabrics with the combination dyeing of indigo and Japanese pagoda tree, were classified into three factors: pleasantness, gracefulness, and comfort. Color sensibility factors showed significant differences according to the concentration of indigo and the kinds of mordants. There were almost significant relationships between colorimetric properties and color sensibilities factors of compositely dyed GY silk fabrics. The color preferences of the GY fabrics, which were dyed in the combination of using natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and four kinds of mordants, were found to be predicted by the color sensibility in a regression model. 본 연구는 친환경적이고 감성적인 패션상품의 색채기획을 위한 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색 후 무매염 견직물과 4종의 매염제(Al, Cu, Fe, Zn)를 처리한 견직물에 대하여 색채특성을 측정하였다. 또한 복합염색 후 매염처리된 연두색 견직물에 대하여 여대생을 대상으로 색채감성과 색채 선호도를 조사하였으며, 색채특성과 색채감성이 색채 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽/괴화로 복합염색된(무매염) 견직물은 선 염색한 쪽농도가 10 g/ℓ이면 녹색, 쪽 20 g/ℓ을 사용하면 청록색을 나타내었으며, 4종의 매염제를 사용하여 처리시 거의 모든경우 연두색을 나타내었다. 연두색을 나타내는 복합염색된 견직물 10종의 색채감성을 요인분석한 결과, 유쾌성, 품위성, 편안성 요인으로 분류되었으며, 이러한 색채감성은 쪽 농도와 매염제의 종류에 따라 대부분 유의한 차이를보였다. 또한 복합염색된 연두색 견직물의 색채특성과 색채감성요인 간에는 대부분 유의한 상관성을 보여, L*값,b*값, C*값이 크고 a*값이 작을수록 유쾌성과 편안성 감성을 더 강하게 느끼며, L*값이 작고 a*값이 클수록 품위성감성을 더욱 느끼는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색하고 매염처리한 연두색 견직물의 색채감성요인을 예측변수로 활용할 수 있는 색채 선호도 예측 회귀식이 제안되었다.

염색조건에 따른 쪽 염색 섬유소 소재의 색채감성과 선호도

신주동,최종명 한국감성과학회 2016 춘계학술대회 Vol.2016 No.-

섬유종류와 염색조건에 따른 쪽 염색직물의 색채감성과 색채선호도

신주동,최종명,Shin, Judong,Choi, Jongmyoung 한국감성과학회 2017 감성과학 Vol.20 No.3

This research was carried out in order to suggest useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. For this purpose, four cellulose fabrics were dyed with natural indigo under three different dyeing conditions, then, their colorimetric properties and color sensibilities were evaluated, and their influences on color preferences were analyzed. All cellulose fabrics naturally dyed with indigo showed the characteristics of PB color tones, middle and low value, and low chroma. Color characteristics were significantly different according to fiber type and dyeing condition. The color sensibilities of the fabrics dyed with indigo were classified into three factors: sporty, classic and natural. These sensibilities showed partially significant differences according to fiber type and dyeing condition. Also, there were partially significant relationships between color characteristics and the color sensibilities of the fabrics dyed with indigo. The color preferences of the dyed fabrics with indigo were found to be influenced by the sporty and classic of color sensibility and $L^*$ of color characteristics. 본 연구에서는 인체 친화적이고 환경 친화적인 패션제품 소재기획을 위한 기초 자료를 제시하고자 수행되었다. 이를 위해서 4종의 섬유소 소재를 대상으로 염색조건을 달리하여 천연 쪽 염색을 실시하여 색채특성과 색채감성을 평가하였으며, 이러한 특성이 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽 염색된 직물은 모두 중, 저명도와 저채도의 남색(PB)을 구현하였다. 이들 직물의 색채특성은 섬유종류와 염색조건에 따라 유의한 차이를 보였다. 쪽 염색된 직물에 대한 색채감성은 스포티 감성, 클래식 감성, 내추럴 감성 등 3가지 요인으로 분류되었다. 이러한 색채감성은 섬유종류와 염색조건에 따라 부분적으로 유의한 차이를 나타내었다. 또한 쪽 염색 직물의 색채특성과 색채감성 요인 간에는 부분적으로 유의한 상관관계를 보였다. 쪽 염색 직물의 색채 선호도에 영향을 주는 요인으로는 색채감성 요인 중에서 클래식 감성과 스포티 감성, 색채특성에서는 $L^*$값인 것으로 나타났다.

현대패션에 표현된 스트라이프패턴의 이미지 분석

신주동(Ju Dong Shin) · 김희숙(Hee Sook Kim) · 최종명(Jong Myoung Choi) 충북대학교 생활과학연구소 2008 생활과학연구논총 Vol.12 No.2

The purpose of this study was to analyze the image of stripe pattern expressed in contemporary fashion. For this research, the fashion magazines, Dong-a TV, Internet sites were used as references. In the middle age, the use of stripe pattern was banned because it was regarded as the pattern of the devil in Europe. But nowadays the stripe pattern plays the role of symbolizing health, youth, and personality. The stripe pattern is being used in various kinds of patterns like alternate stripe, block stripe, candy stripe, chalk stripe, herringbone stripe, hombre stripe, pekin stripe, pin stripe, rope stripe, sports stripe, and stitch stripe. The stripe patterns were expressed by the techniques of weaving, printing, sewing, knitting, and embroidery. The image of stripe pattern appeared during 2006 S/S∼2008 S/S collections could be classified into five images of modern, mannish, elegant, exotic, and sporty image.

청주지역 대학생의 의복선호색과 색채 이미지 연구

신주동(Ju Dong Shin),최종명(Jong Myoung Choi) 충북대학교 생활과학연구소 2007 생활과학연구논총 Vol.10 No.2

  In fashion designers, the color is an important means of expressing their ideas and images, and it also affects for the consumers to make decisions when they purchase clothing. For the use of fashion marketing and textile development, it needs to analyze the preference of the color of clothing because, especially, the color can bea great factor when customers purchase their favorite products. So the purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the differences in gender of preferred color and color image for shirts and slacks in the fall fashion among the college students in the hope that it could be of use to develop appropriate fall shirts and slacks which would be favored by the college students. There were partially significant differences in the implication of color suggestion, general color preference and dislike color, preferred apparel color, preferred apparel color imagte according to the gender.

면직물과 면/닥섬유 혼방직물의 질감이미지와 선호도 평가

신주동, 김여원, 최종명 충북대학교 생활과학연구소 2013 생활과학연구논총 Vol.17 No.2

The purpose of this study was to examine the subjective evaluation of texture images and preferences for cotton and cotton/mulberry blended fabrics in order to suggest the fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products. Fifty male and female university students evaluated the texture images and preferences of cotton and cotton/mulberry blended fabrics dyed with natural indigo dye. For statistical analysis, frequency, mean, factor analysis, t-test, F-test and Pearson correlation. The results were as follows: The texture images of cotton and cotton/mulberry blended fabrics were classified into 4 factors: 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'weight', and 'smoothness'. They evaluated significant differences according to the fiber content in the texture images for the fabrics. Also, there were partially significant differences by the gender in the texture images for the fabrics. Female students were more sensitive than males for the 'stiffness' and 'elasticity' factor. They were more preferred cotton fabrics than cotton/mulberry blended fabrics in terms of tactile and purchase preferences. The preferences of tactile were no different according to the gender, but there was significant difference according to the gender in terms of purchase preference.

닥섬유소재의 역학적 특성과 감각이미지 평가

신주동(Ju dong Shin),최종명(Jong myoung Choi) 충북대학교 생활과학연구소 2015 생활과학연구논총 Vol.19 No.2

The purpose of this research were to examine the mechanical properties and the sensory images of mulberry fabrics for summer bedclothes. The mechanical properties(tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface, and thickness & weight) of the fabrics were measured by the KES-FB system. 25 female university students evaluated the sensory images of 2 specimens of mulberry fabrics. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, t-test, Pearson correlation, and regression were used. The results were as follows: There were significant differences in bending properties and shear properties of the fabrics according to blending ratio of mulberry fibers. The sensory images of the fabrics were classified into 4 factors: 'roughness', 'elasticity', 'flexibility', and 'weight'. There were significant correlations between mechanical properties and 'weight' of sensory images of the fabrics. Female students preferred to the mulberry 40% blended fabrics than 55% blended fabrics in aspect of purchase preference. 'Roughness', 'elasticity', and 'flexibility' of sensory images of the fabrics affected the tactile and purchase preferences for summer bedclothes.

대학생의 패션라이프스타일에 따른 장신구 착장

신주동(Ju Dong Shin),최종명(Jongmyoung Choi) 한국생활과학회 2008 한국생활과학회지 Vol.17 No.4

면직물과 면/닥섬유 혼방직물의 질감이미지와 선호도 평가

신주동(Judong Shin),김여원(Yeowon Kim),최종명(Jongmyoung Choi) 충북대학교 생활과학연구소 2013 생활과학연구논총 Vol.17 No.2

The purpose of this study was to examine the subjective evaluation of texture images and preferences for cotton and cotton/mulberry blended fabrics in order to suggest the fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products. Fifty male and female university students evaluated the texture images and preferences of cotton and cotton/mulberry blended fabrics dyed with natural indigo dye. For statistical analysis, frequency, mean, factor analysis, t-test, F-test and Pearson correlation. The results were as follows: The texture images of cotton and cotton/mulberry blended fabrics were classified into 4 factors: 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'weight', and 'smoothness'. They evaluated significant differences according to the fiber content in the texture images for the fabrics. Also, there were partially significant differences by the gender in the texture images for the fabrics. Female students were more sensitive than males for the 'stiffness' and 'elasticity' factor. They were more preferred cotton fabrics than cotton/mulberry blended fabrics in terms of tactile and purchase preferences. The preferences of tactile were no different according to the gender, but there was significant difference according to the gender in terms of purchase preference.