韓國 傳統 紋樣硏究

蘇晃玉 진주여자전문대학 1980 論文集 Vol.2 No.-

This study has for its object and scope of study that; (1) Collection of the Korean patterns. (2) Comparative study of the Korean patterns and their aesthetic quality. The patterns has been divided into four separate units of decorative motif, for each pattern is made up of main and adjacent theme with band and/or ground pattern. In general the patterns represent the customs, religion, ideas, and hope of the Korean people in the past. The patterns are reproduced here by making systematic analysis of colleted Korean patterns and making tecknical dawings of each decorative unit after photographs to show how well the Koreans in the past were versed in application of an original motif to their art works The Koreans in the past loved to use design indicating pappiness, wealth, health, good fortune and nature, which would please them in their daily life. Especially, they desired to have a long and easy-going life and they expressed a couple d design with symmetry.

紫草染에 있어서 媒染方法이 染色堅牢度에 미치는 영향

蘇晃玉 中央大學校 家庭文化硏究所 1989 가정문화논총 Vol.3 No.-

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of color fastness and color differences regarding the mordanting conditions by Calcium Hydroxide in the Dyeing of Gromwell. The results were as follows; l. According to the color fastness of the mordanting treated samples between 21 months passed and on the experimental day, there were only a few grade difference of the color fastness between each samples. Therefore in case of on mordanting it seemed that has no bearing particularly on the color fastness and periods of mordanting treatment, but found out that the color appeared more light depend on passing periods. 2. According to the experiment, Calcium Hydroxide, Ca(OH)₂ were found out more effective agent than Alum and then (I think) alternative usage is more effective methods in order to make good color fastness. 3. To make good color fastness, the mordanting of A-Group, (1st ; Ca(OH)₂, 2nd ; Alum) was more effective than B-Group (1st ; Ca(OH)₂, 2nd : Alum 3rd ; Ca(OH)₂).

조선시대 저고리에 나타난 섶에 관한 연구

소황옥,주영주 중앙대학교 생활과학연구소 2001 생활과학논집 Vol.14 No.-

The sop is one of conspicuous features expressed in Korean clothing, and according to the sop, the degree of the arrangement in clothing changes. The purposes of this study are to research, firstly, the relationship between the sop and the length of Chogori, secondly the relationship between the width of the sop and the arrangement of Chogori, and thirdly to compare the sop of the actual Chogori in Cho-sun age with the sop of the teaching material. The research method was to compare using the literature researching method through the literature study, remains actually estimated report, and teaching material, and about the sop in Cho-sun age, according to the degree of the arrangement in each Chogori length, the changes of the sop was analyzed.

우리 나라 전통염색(傳統染色)에 관한 고찰(考察)

蘇晃玉 단국대학교 석주선기념박물관 1985 한국 복식 Vol.0 No.3

한국전통염직에 관한 문헌적 연구

소황옥 대한가정학회 1984 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.22 No.2

민속복식비교와 전시

소황옥 비교민속학회 2018 비교민속학 Vol.0 No.66

Comparative folklore research broaden the academic perspective by the comparative study of research topics, while offering an opportunity to perceive one’s folklore objectively. And the review that arise from the comparative analysis should offer an alternative to move from folklore of the past to folklore towards the future. Stepping away from a conscious approach that isolates and frames folklore as self-celebratory, the comparative studies on the likes and differences amongst other cultures through the reflection, examination, and understanding of Korean folklore culture should lead to embracing with humility the diversity of other people revealed through characteristics of ethnic peoples, and the fruits of this process should be used again as resources to reflect and better the vision for the future of Korean folklore. What should not be overlooked in comparative folklore studies is that the culture of human dress, nutrition, and shelter as the necessities of way of life, is not of possession of a single folklore culture, it is formed around the surrounding geographical and environment factors based on the area of livelihood inherited and enjoyed by each ethnic group. The phrase “what’s most global, is what’s most close to home (ex. Korean)” does not mean one’s own or what’s close to home being the best with the upper hand preceding over all the rest. The uniqueness and factors of differentiation in folklore culture that arise from comparative studies does not translate to advocate the prestige of one’s folklore over others. The nomadic lifestyle seems to be increasingly of interest to modern generations across the globe. In this time where people live in the sea of limitless free competition of the global age, traditional culture brings people together and as an important resource to creativity, it should be continuously recreated for the folklore culture contents-development. If the role of the museum is not to simply show the past, a new paradigm is a called for regarding costume clothing. In the classroom, a new discussion is also called for the time period covered in Korean costume history where materials largely focus costumes prior to the Chosen period. Costume require visual resources rather than oral tradition or textual material. Folklore costume studies are usually to be approached via humanities research methods, however it could be said most research results conclude with schematization or recreation. Exhibitions of Folklore Costumes takes place as a result of folklore research, or an effective way to help the public of international audience enhance the understanding of Korean Folklore costume. Exhibitions vary as much as the variation in the spectrum of costume itself depending on the exhibitor’s message and place. Thus, the methodology pertaining to the exhibit, location, and the communication with audience should differ with the condition whether the focus of the exhibition consists of regarding the costume as resources of academic value or whether the purpose of the exhibitions is to showcase costumes with values attached as a product. The new manifestations of exhibitions influenced by modern disintegrations of borders and expansion of the culture of fusion, present rise to diversified forms of exhibitions from the traditional perception or decorum of an exhibition. There seems to be a rapidly approaching need to start a new conversation for the future together with the observation of traditional methodology regarding the subject and method of exhibitions within the topic of costume exhibitions Korean Museums. 비교민속연구는 연구 주제에 대한 비교를 통하여 학문적 시야를 넓히고 우리의 민속을 객관적 입장에서 바라 볼 수 있는 기회를 가지는 것이며, 비교 분석을 통한 평가는 과거의 민속에서 미래를 향한 민속으로 발전 할 수 있는 대안을 제시하는 것으로 이어져야 한다. 우리만의 우리의 것이 최고이어야 하고, 으뜸이 되어야 한다는 의식적 접근이 아닌 한국 민속문화의 성찰과 이해를 통한 타문화와의 같음과 다름의 비교는 우열이 아닌 민족의 특성으로 나타나고 있는 타민족의 다양성을 인정하고 겸허하게 받아들이며, 그 비교의 결과물은 우리 민속의 미래 비전을 발전시킬 수 있는 자료로서 다시 활용 되어야 할 것이다. 복식박물관의 역할이 과거를 보여주는 것만이 아니라면, 복식을 바라보는 관점의 새로운 변화가 요구되며, 기존의 전통한복과 함께 개화기에서 현대에 이르기까지 세계적 패션 흐름과 그 맥락을 함께 해오고 있는 한국패션의 흐름과 변화의 내용도 함께 포함되어야 할 것으로 보이며, 민속복식이 주류를 이루고 있는 현재의 복식박물관의 수집과 전시 내용의 구조적 변화도 논의되어야 한다고 생각한다.

Study on the Korean Traditional Dyeing: Unique features and understanding

소황옥 한국복식학회 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached apoint of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea’s color through natural dyeing.

침구류의 사용실태에 관한 연구(Ⅱ)

소황옥 中央大學校 家庭文化硏究所 1993 가정문화논총 Vol.7 No.-

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fundamental information for the present status on the Use of Bed Clothes. For this study, some types of questionnaires are given to 92 households, who are inhabited at Apartment in Seoul. The conclusion, which indicated percentage, is as follows through x²-test. 1. There are many using methods of Bed clothes that mixed traditional styles and western styles, which are sold generally. 2. The most stuffing Bed Clothes is kind of cotton, buckwheat shell and chemical cotton is normally used for contents of pillow. 3. In purchasing Bed Clothes, we make use of much Ready made goods for supplement, have an eye to design and color when we buy Bed Clothes. 4. The most forms of Bed clothes are attached to a zipper. 5. The Bed Clothes for health(like as Magnetic Yo) are more unsatisfactory with quality and effect than other parts. 6. The preference about Bed Clothes are evenly expressed in order to Fashion, Personality, Conformity-Individuality and Practicality.

직물의 세탁에 의한 영향에 관한 고찰 : 혼방 직물의 물성 변화를 중심으로

소황옥 진주여자전문대학 1979 論文集 Vol.1 No.-

In the presented study, investigations of the effect and the change of physical propertes of blends of polyesterlcotton fabric for repeated laundering have been carried out. The change of physical Properties for the polyester-cotton blended fabric fatigued with laundering was measured by the standard testing method of K. S., A. S. T. M. and A. A. T. C. C. Here are some of the tentative conclusons which may be drawn from the investigation. 1. The degree of the fatigue of fabric by laundering was effected in the times of repeated laundering it was found out that decreased of the strength by repeated laudering 2. The polyester-cotton blended fabric was presnetel flowage appearance in the testing process. The flowage appearance was assumed that propernty difference of each fabrics and the blending irregularity of the polyester-cotton blended yarn in the drawing and roving processes. For the changes in the physical properties, the main Part of the variations on data presented when the laudering repeated about 5th times and 8th times. 3. By repeated laundering, tensile strength, abrading resistance, bursting strength and tearing strength of the polyester-cotton blended fabric was generally decreased. By increasing the launpering times, density and thickness generally increased wrinkle recovery during 10th times of laundering have not shown the stricking effect by the repeated laundering.

한·일 복식의 비교 연구 (1)-여자 상의류를 중심으로-

소황옥 비교민속학회 2004 비교민속학 Vol.0 No.26