제 3 회 아시아 복식 학술회의 : 조선시대 건양에 관하여

강순제 한국복식학회 1984 제3회 아시아 복식학술회의 Vol.- No.-

冠 帽 硏 究 (1) : -in 7C~13C of Korean and Japan- -7C~13C 복두수용이후의 韓國과 日本의 冠帽를 중심으로-

姜淳弟 카톨릭대학교 생활과학연구소 1991 생활과학연구논집 Vol.11 No.1

In Silla(統一新羅) Dynasty, under the influence of Tang(唐) Dynasty, we had used Bokdoo(복두) from the King to the ordinary people classified by its raw material, which had mainly been very soft cloth with a sort of trail. In koryo Dynasty, two kinds of Bokdoo(복두) were used widely-one made of soft cloth and the other made of more stiffened material. Sadae Moollagun(四帶文羅巾) of Koryo Tokyung(高麗圖經) had been original Bokdoo(복두) of soft material and Ohkun(烏巾) with two bands which had been worn by high-ranking government officers and upper-class people were known as Sookack Bokdoo(수각복두) of soft material. Our traditional Byunsang Kwanmo(弁狀冠帽) had been used in parallel with Bokdoo(복두), therefore History of Heargear in our country was evolved in doubly structured veriation from our own tradition and Chinese influence. In Japan, at 12th year of Chun Moo(天武) they imported Bokdoo(복두) of Tang(唐) Dynasty and used it as formal headgear(its name was Chilsakwan 漆紗冠), and their traditional cone-shaped or bag-shaped headgear called Gyukwan(圭冠) as informal headpiece, these usage was Japanese headgear had been applied in two different variation of Chinese and Japanese tradition, their own traditional usage was seemed to have obviously coreleated with our Byunsang Kwanmo(弁狀冠帽) of ancient. Chilsakwan(漆紗冠) had changed in many different shapes, developed into 「○○ kwan」 and had been used with formal custom or many other special occasion, Gyukwan(圭冠) had been called Ohmoja(烏帽子) at Pyungan(平安) age, had been loved by royal family as well as ordinary people in various shape, had been used widely at the end of Pyungan(平安) and Gyumchang(鎌倉) age. Wide usage of Ohmoja(烏帽子) had been reasoned the formalization of the custom which had been worn with Ohmoja(烏帽子), and some of the costoms had been chosen as the supreme uniform of military officers, could be found the ascension of military family in the Japanese society. Accordingly, the main trend of Japanese two Kwanmo 「○○kwan冠」and Ohmoja(烏帽子) had long been evolved from ancient times, into totally different shape which looks completely unique, not related with Chinese Bokdoo(복두) nor our Byunsang kwanmo(弁狀冠帽), through their own transition. It also says something about characteristic inherence in the Japanese Culture.

巾制小考 : on the period of Yi Dynasty

姜淳弟 성심여자대학부설 자연과학연구소 1985 자연과학논문집 Vol.7 No.-

A piece of cloth covering the head called Kun(巾) had not had any original form. It has its special meaning of importance as primitive form of head-cover. In Yi Dynasty, several kinds of Kun(巾) had been worn according to their special usage. Such a variety was reasoned upon the import of Kun(巾) from China under the influence of Confucianism. Kun-Je(巾制) of Yi Dynasty has been observed as follows: 1. Classification by their usage. i Bang-Kun(方巾), Dong-Pa-Kwan(東坡巾), Chung-Ja-Kwan(程子巾), and Wa-Ryong-Kwan(臥龍巾) : These were worn by Confucianist and Men of high birth(士大夫) in private. ii Yoo-Kun(儒巾) : It was worn by Confusian students. iii Kul-Kun(屈巾), Hyo-Kun(孝巾) : These were worn by chief mourner and mourners iv Cha-Kun(茶巾), Chung-Kun(靑巾), Cho-Kun(조巾), Oh-Kun(烏巾), Chajuk-Doo Kun(紫的頭巾), Chorokju-Doo Kun(草綠紬頭巾) : These were worn by people of lower status in the pubilic office. 2. Analysis of Kun-Je(巾制) in Yi Dynasty. i Certain kinds were originated from Chinese Kun-Je. : These were used by Confucianist family and families of high birth, that the style and name has been changed slightly. Among them Chung-Ja-Kwan and Yoo-Kun has been developed into special form of Yi Dynasty diffterent from Chineses Kuns. ii A few kinds were originatedin Yi Dynasty. : These were worn by people of lower status in the pubilic office. The upper part of Kun has been coney shpe(꼬깔모양) and similar to their predecessor. They have several aspects related to the original coney Kwanmo(弁狀冠巾)of earlier times.

冠帽 硏究(II) : 埴輪에 나타난 古代 日本의 冠帽를 中心으로 in Haniwa of the period of ancient burial mounds in Japan

姜淳弟 카톨릭대학교 생활과학연구소 1994 생활과학연구논집 Vol.14 No.1

Japanese dress in the period of ancient burial mounds(古墳時代), which is from the late third century to the early seventh centry, is closely correlated with ancient tiemes in Korea(三國時代). We can find this relation in Haniwa(埴輪) of the period of ancient burial mounds(古墳時代). The distinctive features of Kwanmo(冠帽) of the period of ancient burial mounds in Japan are follows. In the period of ancient burial mounds, they imported many different kind of Kwanmo from ancient tiemes in Korea and used them. Among them, the remarkable one was cone-shaped or bag-shaped headgear. Particularly, The cone-shaped of Kwanmo of Korea was introduced to Japan during the period of ancient burial mounds and it was adopted as an official headgear which was soon developed into 'e-bo-si', it seems to be that japanese typical Kwanmo, 'e-bo-si' (鳥帽子), is originated from cone-shaped or bag-shaped headgear(Byunsang-Kwanmo) of Korea. 'E-bo-si' in the late Pyungan age(平安時代) became to be the totally different shape which looks completely unique as the result of long evolution. In the later ages, it looks that 'e-bo-si' is Japanese own Kwanmo. Accrdingly, 'e-bo-si' seems to be completely different from our Byunsang Kwanmo. Japanese have a good power to make to make accepted ones different and new and to keep long. It is the characteristic inherence in the Japanese culture, quite different from ours.

冠帽 硏究 (Ⅲ) : focusing on Tongchun Kwan, Wonyoo Hwan, Yang kwan 通天冠·遠遊冠·梁冠을 중심으로

姜淳弟 가톨릭대학교 생활과학연구소 1996 생활과학연구논집 Vol.16 No.1

This study mainly concerns about Tongchun Kwan(通天冠), Wonyoo Kwan(遠遊冠) and Yang Kwan(梁冠), the headgear of the ancient royal officers. All the Tongchun Kwan, Wonyoo Kwan and Yang Kwan were the formal headgear with the special attachment of vertical lines which were called Yang(梁), to the front side of Kwan(冠) representing the user's hierarchical status. Tongchun Kwan and Wonyoo Kwan had been originated in the Jin(秦) dynasty and imported by the early Ming(明) dynasty as the King's or the Emperor's headgear, and Yang Kwan had been worn by the all government officials. In Koryo dynasty, King Kong-Min(恭愍王) had worn one, for the first time, which had been presented by Ming(明) dynasty. In Chosun dynasty, it was found that King Se-Jong(世宗) had been presented, but no other formal documents were left of later years. The Emperor, the Kings, the princes and their children's custom of wearing the special headgear han been regulated like Pee Byun(皮弁) of China. King Yeu-Chin's(義親王) Wonyoo Kwan and King Ko-Jong(高宗) and King Soon-Jong's(純宗) Tongchun Kwan had a lot of similarity to the Pee Byun of Ming(明) dynasty. Yang Kwan had been originated from Jinhyun Kwan(進賢冠) of Han(漢) dynasty and evolved into different shape and style representing the different social hierarchy. In Dang(唐) dynasty when they began to be called Yang Kwan the numbers of yang(梁) had increased and varied depending on their social position. In the early Chosun dynasty, the prince had worn Yoongyang Kwan(六梁冠) and then the custom of wearing Chillyang Wonyoo Kwan(七梁遠遊冠) had been regulated similarly following the royal clothing custom of Ming(明) dynasty

冠帽 硏究 (IV) : -focusing on king's Iksun Kwan & Sa Mo- -王과 世子의 翼善冠. 紗帽 착용을 중심으로-

강순제 카톨릭대학교 생활과학연구소 1998 생활과학연구논집 Vol.18 No.1

This study has been surveyed on the original literature concerning about the process of formalizing the regulation and usage of Iksun Kwan(翼善冠) and Sa Mo(紗帽). 1. Iksun Kwan has been worn not only as ordinary official headgear but also worn when they were given the will of King(誥命), performed religious service(祭祀), prayed for rain(祈雨), travelled to the tomb(陵幸), and attended the funeral service(禪祭), after the ending crying service(卒哭). They were classified into Iksun Kwan or wrapped in white cloth Iksun Kwan(白布裏翼善冠). They were worn with red, deep blue, or black Won-Ryung-Po(圓領袍). It has been known that the Kings in Chosun Dynasty had begun to wear Iksun Kwan since Tae-Chong(太宗) had acceded the throne, and the princes also had begun to wear Ik-Sun-Kwan since the accedence of Moon-Chong(文宗) after they were given the will of King. Those were usually made in the country not imported as a imperial gift from abroad. 2. Before the Kings began to wear Iksun Kwan in the early Chosun Dynasty, they had used to wear Sa Mo(紗帽) when they attended the funeral service, religious service and were given the will of Kings. It has been confirmed that they specially had worn the black Sa Mo(烏紗帽) or the white "wrapped in the white cloth" Sa Mo(布裏紗帽) depending on the situation like religious service, memorial service after the ending crying service (卒哭). Accordingly this paper offers a different opinion on the existing view that "Sa Mo were mainly for all government officials". Even after the prince had worn Iksun Kwan, they had worn Sa Mo as official headgear when they greeted the Imperial messengers before they were given the will of succession to the throne. Those cases were validated on the records of the Sun-Cho(宣祖) reign.

이슬람권 국가의 복식문화 특징에 관한 연구

강순제,전현실 카톨릭대학교생활과학연구소 2003 생활과학연구논집 Vol.23 No.1

This study concerns about the character of costume of Islam through religious factor. First, two-piece style, which is divided into upper garment and pants, is showed. This is for Islamic seated custom and protection of body from an arid climate of desert. Upper garment of tunic style is had no-collar and a little cut at front center and Pants is formed widely. Second, Man's hat is turban or torque and Woman's is the style that is hided her face and body in cloth. This is for according to <Koran> observance of moral principle and protection of body from desert climate. Third, the embroidery of ancient Persia and European items as shalite, piishisine, gilet and bolero are used by Muslim. This is for ancient Persia's culture is equal to Iran's ancient culture and Iran and Turkey are near to Europe continent.

北海道地域의 文化的特性과 아이누(AINU)人 : 아이누의 淵源을 중심으로

강순제 가톨릭대학교 생활과학연구소 2000 생활과학연구논집 Vol.20 No.1

Hokkaido, the huge island which is located at the far most northern part of the Japanese Islands has made its own history and was perceived as the place where the different people called Ainu have lived for a long time. But there has been no definite answer where Hokkaido Ainu people had come from. While searching for the origin of the recent Ainu, it can be reached to the problem of Emisi and Ebisu which are related to the Ezo-Ainu people. On the basis of the terminology used in the historical events, Emisi and Ebisu are the term indicating the determined brave people who had lived on the northeast and had been against the rule of Japanese dynasty. So some asserts that they are not different from the Japanese on the mainland and others does that mid-century concept of Emisi and Ebisu are different from Ezo-Ainu on the northern Hokkaido. From the recent studies of archaeology and physical anthropology, Ainu people and the original Japanese share the same Mongoloid since the physical constitution of Ainu people had not experienced the adaptation of the cold northern district. Therefore it can be strongly asserted that they are the people who had lived in the warm southern region for a long time. In this paper, it has been concluded that Ainu people are not the northern race but the Mongoloid who had not adapted to the cold climated and the ancient concept of Emisisi and Ebisu is not different from the mid-centry Ezo. It has been confirmed that the originality of Ainu people should be excluded from the various northern elements of Ainu culture. Various characteristics of Ainu culture of clothing, like the one-piece and open-style which is never northern, could be analysed from this point of view in further studies.

內外용 쓰개類에 대한 考察

姜淳第 한국의류학회 1978 한국의류학회지 Vol.2 No.2

The history of the women's veil which was used to hide their face in Yi-Dynasty was discussed. The similar fashion of wearing veil was popular in T'ang China(唐) as Myok-li(墨罹) and YooMo(유모), then it might have influenced the fashion of the women's dress of the Silla Dynasty. It was also found out that the custom was most popular in Koryo and then continued to Yi-Dynasty. The confucianism of Yi-Dynasty requested very strict moral obligation toward women that veil had to be worn by them whenever going out. It might not be their popular fashion but obligation. There were several types of veil so called; Neoul(羅元) Jangott(長衣) Suege-China(쓰개치마) Chun-eue(薦衣) Sak-kat(삿갓) Chun-mo(청모)etc., which were used as a part of formal dress for women. From the late 1930, when the new society started to accept women's activities, the customs of wearing veil had been vanishing from the women's dress.

한국 입제의 변천에 관한 연구

강순제 한국복식학회 1977 服飾 Vol.1 No.-