발해(渤海) 건국 초기의 관복(冠服)에 대한 소고(小考)

전현실,강순제 한국복식학회 2005 춘계 학술대회 Vol.2005 No.-

渤海수입 衣料연구

전현실 동북아역사재단 2008 東北亞歷史論叢 Vol.- No.22

On focused the exchange relation of Balhae (渤海), this study is designed to analyze the social meaning of the imported textiles from Tang (唐)∙Five dynasties (五代) and ancient Japan (Nara 奈良era to the beginning of Heian 平安era) by the import frequency, import period, import quantity and so on. Balhae has imported a lot of floss (眞綿), plain weaved silk (平織絹 織物) and silk thread (糸) that has produced a little in Balhae. However, among the textiles the linen (布) which Balhae could massproduce, has an opposite tendency. Moreover, Balhae has imported a lot of plain weaved silk and figured silk from Tang as compared with the exchange frequency. That is, mostly has imported raw materials for weaving from Japan and weaved product from Tang∙Five dynasties because of the insufficiency of an output by a climatic influence and the imported textiles filled up a deficiency in silk. Expecially, the high-quality silk, as Compound silk (錦), Twill damask (綾), Complex silk gauze (羅) among the imported silks connote the political purpose to maintain friendly relations with Balhae in Tang (唐)∙Five dynasties (五代) and ancient Japan. The other side, a lot of low-quality silks connote the economic purpose for material gain in Balhae. And Japan has presented officially to the envoys of Balhae the linen∙plain weave silk∙floss which were taken as tax. The amount that envoys of Balhae were taken was much than one which a official of Japan, first class (1位) received from the Government. 본 연구는 발해의 수입 衣料에 대해, 주변국과의 관계를 중심으로 발해가 唐․五代, 奈良․平安 조정으로부터 증정받은 의료들의 입수 횟수나 입수 시기, 분량, 재질의 분석을 통해 이 의료들이 갖는 사회적 의미를 당시 양국 간의 정치 및 경제적 교류의 관점에서 분석했다. 발해는 일본으로부터 眞綿, 平織 絹織物, 絲를 대량으로 입수했는데, 이러한 수준은 교류의 후반까지 지속적으로 유지되고 있다. 이는 발해에서 생산량이 적은 의료일수록 일본으로부터 입수한 의료의 분량이 많았고, 특히 布는 다른 의료들에 비해 횟수나 분량면에서 상당히 적은 양으로 기록되고 있다. 또한 당․오대로부터는 교류 전반에 걸쳐 綿을 제외하고 絹, 帛, 彩帛이나 綵練과 같은 견직물이 입수되었음이 확인되는데, 이는 적은 교류 횟수 빈도에 비해 대량의 견직물을 취하고 있었다. 즉 일본으로부터는 견직물을 직조하기 위한 재료인 풀솜이나 견사를, 당․오대로부터는 이미 직조가 마무리된 견직물을 대량 입수하고 있었다. 이는 상당한 양이 발해로 유입되었음을 입증하는 것이며, 기후적인 조건으로 견직물을 직조하기 위한 재료 생산량이 충분치 않았던 발해에서는 재료와 견직물의 수입을 통해 부족한 양을 충족시켰고, 이를 주로 지배층의 의료로 사용되었다. 발해사 입수한 품목 중 견직물의 경우, 교류의 초반에만 증여된 錦, 綾, 羅, 兩面과 같은 고급 견직물은 발해와의 우호관계를 확립하기 위한 정치적인 목적에 의미를 둘 수 있을 것이다. 반면 일본과의 관계에서 평직 견직물이 교류의 말기까지 많은 양이 꾸준히 증여되고 있는 것은 교류의 의미에서 볼 때 실리 추구의 경제적인 의미가 반영된 것이다. 또한 발해 문화 정립에 큰 영향을 주었던 고구려인들의 고도의 직조 기술은 발해인들에게 전승되었고, 기술 바탕 하에서 발해인들도 고급 견직물들을 직조해 낼 수 있었다. 일본은 調庸制度에 따라 각 지역으로부터 공납받은 布, 平織 絹(絁․絹), 綿을 공식 일정에서 관례적으로 발해인들에게 증정하였다. 이 때 발해인들이 증정 받은 의료의 분량은 물론 상대적인 수치이기는 하나 일본 官人 1位가 조정으로부터 받은 양보다 많은 것으로, 발해인들의 위상 및 실리를 추구하고자 했던 발해인들의 경제적 의도를 짐작할 수 있다.

고깔형 관모(Conical hat)에 관한 연구

전현실,강순제 한국복식학회 2001 춘계 학술대회 Vol.2001 No.-

거울 속의 천사를 만나다

전현실 시와세계 2004 시와세계 Vol.- No.6

근대 소설과 매일신보를 통해 본1910년대 하이패션의 사회적 의미 분석

전현실 국민대학교 한국학연구소 2016 한국학논총 Vol.46 No.-

This paper examines the social meanings and aspects of the high fashion in Korean modern novels and Maeilshinbo of the 1910s. In the 1910s, the new intellectual class, that appeared in that flow, had the dominant force of social and cultural role. The high fashion of the 1910s gradually began to be converted into mass fashion focused on the menswear fashion. While the women's high fashion led by the small number of classes. At that time, the high fashion were used as the meaning of the trophyism, that is, social status and economic power and implied the meanings of the ostentation, bluff and extravagance. The fashion innovator(fashion leaders) were ‘a new intellectual class, gentlemen’ and the trend-chaser were ‘Gisaeng(妓生), a bum’. The trend-chaser conformed to the new fashion but abused it as the means of attracting the other person's misjudgment. In general, the hair-cut and Western-style headgear of men were settled quickly and generalized, however, the concealing culture on women were maintained. But in the late 1910s, the use frequency of women's umbrella as alternative means of the concealing headdress were increased. In addition, a school uniform for a male student than one for a female student was quickly turned into Western style. 본 연구는 1910년대의 근대소설, 매일신보에 반영된 하이패션의 양상과 그 사회적 의미을 고찰한 것이다. 1910년대에는 다양한 사회 계층의 인물들이 부각되었는데, 그 중 신지식층(유학생, 고등수학자)은 사회, 문화의 주도 세력으로서 역할을 담당했다. 1910년대의 하이패션은 남성복을 중심으로, 점차 일반 패션으로 전환되기 시작한 반면, 여성의 하이패션 착용은 여전히 소수의 계층에 의해 주도되고 있어 남성서구식 복식의 일반화로의 전환 경향이 눈에 띄게 나타나는 것과는 달리 여전히변화 속도가 늦다. 당시의 하이패션은 트로피즘, 즉 사회적 위상과 경제력을 과시하는 수단이자 허세, 사치, 허영의 의미도 내포되어 있었다. 당시의 유행주체자는 ‘신지식인층, 신사’이고, 새롭게 도입된 유행은 ‘기생’, ‘부랑자나 환고자’와 같은 유행추종집단에 의해 동조되는데, 동조자들의 근대식 유행패션은 상대방의 오판을 이끌어내는 수단으로 이용되고 있었다. 일상적으로, 남성의 단발과 서양식 쓰개 착장이 빨리 정착하면서 1910년대에일반화되나 여성은 전통식 내외용 쓰개를 이용한 폐면 문화가 유지된다. 그러나1910년대 후반, 여성의 내외용 쓰개 대체 수단인 우산의 착용 빈도의 점차적 증가는 여성 쓰개 문화의 일변에 영향을 주었다. 또한 여학생복은 서구식 머리에 전통식 차림이 다수이나 남학생 교복은 1910년대 중반 이후 서구식 제복형으로 변화하고 있어 여학생 교복 보다 서구식 전환 양상이 빠르게 나타나고 있다. 이러한양상은 일상복의 경향과 유사하다고 볼 수 있다. 주제어

도심 속에 피어나는 작지만 큰 시 창작의 요람

전현실 시와세계 2003 시와세계 Vol.- No.1

고대 한일 관계에서 본 평직 견직물 주(紬), 시(施)에 관한 연구

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),강순제(Soon Che Kang) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.4

This study analyzed historical records on silk tabby-Ju(紬), Si(施)- in a diachronic and spatial point of view. The historical records were written in Samguksagi(三國史記) of Korea, Eastern barbarian[東夷] section of Ershiwush(二十五史) of China and Ritkokusi(六國史) of Japan from the 4th century to the early 10th century. The study finally could reach the conclusions as follow. Firstly, records that fabrics like Ju were used were found in the Korean historical documents written on Balhae(渤海) of the 8th century and Silla(新羅) of the 9th century. On the other hand, no official record on production of fabrics like Ju was found in the Japanese historical documents up to the 10th century. Instead, there are some records that Si was produced and used for the first time in the 7th century and it was rapidly spread in the 8th century. In the 9th century, the number of records on Si was sharply decreased and the importance of Si in the foreign-relation point of view also went down gradually. Secondly, records on using and trading with both Ju(紬) and Si(시) in the foreign relation of two countries were shown from the 8th century to the 9th century. In the period, international exchange had been promoted among Balhae, Silla and ancient Japan. In the 9th century, fabrics like Ju of ancient Korea was introduced to ancient Japan ancient Japanese people could not manufacture Ju by themselves at that time. On this account, we assumed that ancient Japanese people might consider Ju as high quality fabric rather than Si that had been used as general fabric. Meanwhile, it is found that Japan presented various kinds of Si to Balhae and Silla from the early 8th century. As the foreign relation between Silla and ancient Japan got weaker in the mid-8th century, frequency and amount of supplying Si to Balhae were relatively increased. Besides Si, Balhae was given a lot of silk yarn and floss. These fabrics presumably were used as raw material of Ju in Balhae because Balhae got low output of silk due to its geographical condition.

발해와 신라의 복식 비교 연구

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),유송옥(Song Ok Ryu) 한국복식학회 2000 服飾 Vol.50 No.6

As the result of the study of this thesis, the costume of Palhae and Shilla shows the many similarity. 1. The two conturies introduced the system of four-colored official uniform. This official uniforms are BokDoo(복두), DanLyung(團領) and Dae(帶). DanLyung of Palhae are GyulGoPo(결고포), leather belt and that of Shilla are GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대), Similary BokDoo shows the long Gak(脚) in back. 2. Yu(유) and Ko(고), the native costumes have worn even after the period of the three countries. 3. The two countries wore DanLyung. A man in Palhae wore GyulGoPo(결고포), leather belt and a man in Shilla wore GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대). 4. A woman in Palhae wore SangEui(上衣), Sang(裳), JikLyung(直領) one by one. And over Sang wrapped PoBaekDae(布帛帶) and covered the shoulder by UnGyun(雲肩). A woman in Shilla wore SangEui, Sang, PoBaekDea one by one and covered the shoulder by Pyo(표). 5. The two countries put on Rib(笠)and similary shoes. Rib insists of MoChe(帽體), ChaYang(遮陽) and can classify the estate by decoration. A man wore Wha(靴), Li(履) and a woman wore KoDooLi(高頭履). This similarity is the result by the cultural interchange between Palhae and Shilla. There are the five reasons. Interchange by the envoy`s visit, Interchange through Shillado(新羅道), Interchange in T`ang Dynasty, Interchange in Japan, Interchange of Buddhist culture. By the cultural interchange between Palhae(渤海) and Shilla(新羅), the shape of costume is similary. The meaning of this similarity of costume equals to the similarity of culture. We will approval Palhae is the co-subject of Korean history with Shilla and will name as The period of NamBukKuk(南北國時代) from the late 7th century to the early 10th century in the academy of the history of Korean Costume.

견일본발해사의 교류 품목에 나타난 복식 연구

전현실(Jeon Hyeon Sil),강순제(Kang Sun Je) 한국복식학회 2003 服飾 Vol.53 No.6

Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the Paid from AD. 27 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records ; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(暗謨靴) belt(帶). various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[冠服], various textiles, coronet shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan b u s e they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae`s envoys a high rank, five-grade(5位) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(秦개衣 ) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. Were being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time under Nana(奈良) era(AD. 719-AD. 794) and the beginning of PyungAn(平安) era(AD794-AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang`s culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang`s culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang`s therefore they are the same as Tang`s. In the same way, Parhae`s costumes are the same as Tang`s, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchange3 with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang`s costumes.

한국근대소설의 여성복식에 나타난 문화현상 분석

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),홍나영(Na Young Hong) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.6

This study is based on the periodical discourse of women and their costumes, described in modern novels that were published from late 1890s to the 1930s. New cultural phenomena emerged among Korean women in the period of modernization. In particular, rapid increase of jobs for women and preference for western female body shape are very noticeable phenomena that can be observed in novels of the 1930s. In addition, the symbolic meanings of female costumes are variously described in modern novels according to the periodical and spatial environment and jobs for women. The symbolic meanings are organized as ``Trophysm, Expression of sexuality, Liberation from male-dominated society, Symbolic difference between rural and urban areas, Vanity, Decadence, Mechanism tending to hide and Change of values``. And women`s costumes kept changing in the boundary of ``Confliction, Coexistence and Harmonization`` of traditional and western costumes. ``Confliction`` phenomenon got emerged in novels published between 1900 and 1910. The resistance on traditional costumes that restricted woman`s life got spread. But western female costumes as a symbol of new culture could not be generalized but accepted as high fashion. ``Coexistence`` phenomenon was appeared in novels of the 1920s. At that time, the modernization for traditional costumes by female students was emerged along with trendy fashion. Also, the frequency of using western fashion items was increased in the Korean society. Therefore, it shows that western costumes in the Korean society became popularized in the coexistence with traditional costumes. ``Harmonization`` phenomenon was emerged in novels of the 1930s. In the novels, the emergence of western female costumes, personal preference items, and westernized hair style implies that western costumes were absorbed into the Korean society that had kept traditional costumes.