19世紀 유우럽 紳士服 Mode 의 特性

楊淑喜 한국의류학회 1984 한국의류학회지 Vol.8 No.2

Die Geschichte des Kostums steht in unmittelbarem oder mittelbarem Zusammenhang mit der allgemeinen historischen Entwicklung derjenigen Lander und sozialen Schichten, die das kulturelle Gesicht und damit auch die Entwicklung der Mode einer Epoche bestimmen. Im 19. Jahrhundert war das Burgertum in Europa die herrschende soziale Schicht und daher auch modisch tonangebend. Die Mode des Burgertums zeigte demokratisierende Tendenzen: Vereinfachung der Ausstattung und der Formen, wobei sich die Proportionen der Kleidung so gut wie moglich den des Korpers anpaBten. Die Herrenmode beugte sich zunehmend den Forderungen nach ZweckmaBigkeit; das gait zumindest fur den Tagesanzug, der immer mehr zum Arbeitsanzug wurde und sich damit der Mannerkleidung der arbeitenden Schicht annahrte. Die Industrialisierung trug ebenfalls dazu bei, daB die modischen und sozialen Previlegien in der Kleidung sich verminderten; die Textil-und Konfektionsindustrie muBte sich zwangslaufig auf die Bedurfnisse der Massen und auf deren Wunsch einst ellen. In der Herrenmode setzte sich die Tendenz zu funkticnaier Einfachheit und Gradlinigkeit durch, d.h. funktional uberflussige Teile wie z.B. die Vielzahl der Kragen, Knopfreihen, uberlange SchoBe verrchwanden; an die Stelle der Farbenfreude trat ein einfaches, einheitliches Grau, Schwarz, Blau und Braun. Diese Vereinfachung wurde zum Ausdruck der zunehmenden Demokratisierung, wurde aber zugleich auch Voraussetzung fur eine neue Differnzierung des KlassenbewuBtseins. Zum Statussymbol wurden die auffalliges Erscheinen vermeidende Eleganz und das Arrangement der einzelnen Kleidungsstucke zu einem harmonischen Ganzen; elegante Kleidung weist ihren Trager aus als Kenner des Modetrends und damit als zugehorig zum Kreis der modeavancierten Schicht. Diese Ambivalenz bestimmt auch die Mode des 20. jahrhunderts.

패션명품 광고에 나타난 사회문화적 의미 -여성 이미지를 중심으로-

양숙희 韓國衣類學會 2005 한국의류학회지 Vol.29 No.2

오페라의상과 무대조명의 시각적 효과 : 리골렛토(Rigoletto)를 중심으로 Rigoletto

양숙희,김현수 숙명여자대학교 건강ㆍ생활과학연구소 1997 生活科學硏究誌 Vol.12 No.1

The purpose of study to show 1) that, based on the concep of opera costum throuht consideration of visual effect, the situation of costume on the syage shall be firmly set up, 2) that the visual effect of opera costume is divided by the visual effect of the formal and abstract antities which is percived in the situation of audience, and so the audience shall be oneness whith works, 3) that, by observing and analizing visually the features of the costume which is chainging according to wake the its importance as the factor controlling the ostchological state of the audience and by lighting, it is possible to perform the effective state by providing the interest and visual statisfaction to the play. Briefly summarizing the conclusion of this thesis as follows; 1. An opera costume is expressed with the close relationship with other visual elements, and especially for the costume designed in a major consideration of illumination will bring an increased modern sensibility and dramatic uniformity as a silent language. 2. The symbolic personal descriptions of the characters is exposed and adjusted along the variety of the illumination to the extent that it would deliver the psychological state of the figures in the drama. 3. The illumination which increases the visual effects of opera costume will express and create the essential phenomena, including shapes, colors and qualitative touch and will offer the visual singification and creative imagination, by harmonizing with the abstract entity of the psychological state of the audience and that of the characters. 4. By inquiring into Opera 'Rigoletto' as a sample study, the result of the analysis on the visual effect of the opera costume, varies along the illumination, are following as; 1) The formal and abstract entities by the illumination was varied and adjusted along the characters at Act Ⅰ Scene 2, Act Ⅰ Scene 2, Act Ⅱ Act Ⅲ respectively, and was formed a dramatic relationship between the natures of the costumes and the characters. 2) The stage illumination for each Act helped the audience increase their comprehension and attention along the psychological state of the characters, places and times. 3) The variety of costume through the effects of color filter influenced not only the changing appearance of the costumes but also the qualitative touch and its shape with possible expectation of the various visual effects. 4) The function of illumination offers the unique and broad possibility of the visual arts as sell as effective design options creating the variety of the elements of costume design, including the changes in silhouette, qualitative touch and creation of patterns.

회장 취임 인사

양숙희 복식문화학회 2009 服飾文化硏究 Vol.17 No.2

예술과 패션 : 20세기초 무대의상과 예술 ①

양숙희 淑明女子大學校 1992 論文集 Vol.32 No.-

헤어스타일에 대한 여성들의 의식행태와 관련 요인 분석

양숙희,남철현,김성우,곽형심,남현주,이명옥 慶山大學校 保健福祉硏究所 2001 保健福祉硏究 Vol.6 No.-

This study was conducted to examine aspects of women's awareness of haier styles and related factors. 734 women who lived in Seoul, Daegu, Pohang, Sangju, and Gumi were selected as subjects of this study. Data were collected from May 20, 2001 to August 20, 2001. The results of this study can be summarized as follow. 1.The respondents' satisfaction level with their hair styles was 3.34±0.84 points on the basis of 5 points. The highest values in the variables were the upper class (3.78±0.78 points), tall and fat women (3.53 ± 0.96 points), above 50 years old (3.42±0.85 points), and education level of above college (3.45±0.83 points). 2.The respondents' had various hair styles such as short hair (32.3%), short-cut hair (30.1%), long hair having layers (25.5%), long hair having no layer (7.8%), and pull-up hair (4.4%). According to the opinions of hair styles which matched well with Korean women, long hair having layers covered 25.3%, while long hair having no layer covered 21.9%. Pull-up hair was 23.0% and short-cut hair covered 17.0%. 3.In the case of changing hair style, 38.8% of the respondents answered that they change hair style when they needed diversion of feeling. 29.3% of them changed hair style periodically and 17.8% of them changed it to follow fashion. 9.4% changed it by recommendation of family members or friends and 4.1% changed it by hairdresser's recommendation. Among the respondents, 44.1% of unmarried women, 46.1% of the women in their twenties, 50.8% of college students, and 45.2% of professors or teachers changed their hair styles when they needed to diverse their feelings. The change of hair style was significantly different in the variables of marital status, occupation, and economic status, while it was not significantly different in the variable of religion. 4.39.9% of the respondents changed hair style once or twice a year, 24.9% of them almost did not change it. 20.7% changed it three times or four times a year and 7.2% changed it above seven times a year. 5.When the respondents wanted to change their hair styles, 26.8% replied that they would choose the hair style at the time of changing it. 24.4% of them chose long hair having layers and 19.2% of them chose short-cut hair. 13.1% selected short hair and 8.6% chose long hair having no layer. Only 7.2% of the respondents selected pull-up hair. In the variable of age, 28.4% of the women in their twenties and 25.8% of the women in their thirties chose long hair as their next hair style. 6.60.5% of the respondents occasionally used hair styling products when they finished hair styling, while 20.3% of them used them without fail. 19.2% of the respondents did not use them at all. 7.The satisfaction level with present hair style was influenced by economic status, satisfaction level with hair style made by the hairdresser, and their education level. The satisfaction level with hair style was low in the groups of low economic status, short and thin women, and low education level. Hair style was greatly determined by shape of face. Hairdressers must have great concern about hair style because hair style is essential in expressing sense of beauty.

韓國基督敎 聖職者 禮服에 관한 연구

李順愛,楊淑喜 淑明女子大學校 生活科學硏究所 1989 生活科學硏究誌 Vol.3 No.-

Turning into the 20th century two remarkable movements introduced in the Christian community; Liturgical Movement and Ecumenical Movement. Like the examples of other countries, these movements have influenced on the comprehensive studies of renewal of worship services in Korea, that is, both the ceremony renovation movement of Catholic and the ritual recovery movement of Protestantism. In particular, Protestantism that is one of the imported denominations into the nation now holds an active movement of renovation even in its worship rituals, upon the bicentennial anniversary of propagation which can generally be said the stage of stability and settlement in every respect. Obviously it seems to indicate the necessity of some researches on the formal or liturgical vestments. From the point of view that now the Protestant Church also requires putting on liturgical vestments from the Biblical and religious points, this thesis is to some desirable models of liturgical vestments and to contribute to the development of them. Thus this study concentrated on the following points; the priests' vestments of the Bible, the developmental stages of liturgical vestments downward, and those examples of major denominations which were introduced and settled in Korea. According to the Bible, priests' vestments of the Old Testament were God-given and taken on behalf of the public and their vestments were considered more than 'Suit of Life'causing their death if without. On the other hand, Jesus Christ and his Apostles in the New Testament era generally put the Jewish costumes in those days. Roman establishment of Christianity, as its state religion, served as a decisive momentum of the development of new liturgical vestments mainly in the ordinary clothes of the upper class and of forming the symbolically colorful church calendar which was made of Jesus' life almost exclusively. Furthermore, different kinds of peculiar and symbolic liturgical vestments appeared in a gay manner. In the period of Reformation of the 16th century Protestantism rejected the rituals and vestments of Roman Catholic, but the Rutheran Church, chiefly in Germany, adopted basic ones of its own and the Presbyterian Church which mainly consisted of the Calvinists in Geneva applied the ritual gown of colleges to its services, neglecting the examples of Roman Catholic. Christianity of Korea which had been imported since the late 18th century, on the early stage of propagation, faced many difficulties in performing worship services due to the national isolation policy, Japanese suppression, the Korean war(1950-1953)and others. For example, Catholic which was introduced in 1985 could not take the traditional vestments of the Western world unitl 1887. In Korea, the liturgical vestments of Catholic, the Orthodox Church, and the Episcopal Church not only adopt the colors of church calendars in parallel with symbolic meanings but also are various in kind by the organization. Today both Catholic and the Episcopal Churches show the tendency of simplification by the influence of the above-mentioned Liturgical Movement. In the Rutheran Church, on the contrary, the liturgical vestments as well as the organization are simple and already in the state being simplified. The Presbyterian, Methodist and Holiness Churches, through the propagation of the American Liberal Church, had been introduced since 1885 and held the services with ordinary clothes. The gown which goes back to those days toward 1950s in now generalized. However, it is in fact put in different way with the taste of each priest, not the regular one. In addition, the major divisions of the year found in the church calendar are maintained, but there is no any symbolic color. As shown in above results, the division of Christian denominations concurs with each different worship rituals and liturgical vestments. Judging from the fact obtained that the liturgical vestments are necessary in Protestantism Biblically and religiously in terms of the function and role of worship rituals, this study suggests the following two models; one is the black and white Geneva Gown endowed with symbols and meanings, the other is stole applied with the colors of the church calendar.

현대복식에 나타난 신분상징의 양면가치 : 부와 빈곤개념을 중심으로 Focused on the concept of wealth and poverty

양숙희,이정후 숙명여자대학교 건강ㆍ생활과학연구소 1996 生活科學硏究誌 Vol.11 No.1

덕트 테이프 패션에 표현된 다원주의

양숙희,이봉덕 한국의류산업학회 2000 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.2 No.4

Pluralistic and diverse values exist in the realm of post modernism society In this context, one particular outlook does not have the same meaning across the whole society The creation and sharing of a new meaning do not necessarily need the consent of every member of the society There have been a few attempts to delve into the relationship between sociocultural phenomenon and fashion trends in the pluralistic cultures. However, there has been little research on the theoretical framework in order to analyze a pluralistic phenomenon itself. The purpose of this study is to provide the theoretical paradigms to analyze and interpret various pluralistic phenomena in postmodernism fashion. Theories developed by Gilles Deleuze have been utilized to analyze and interpret the duct tape fashion which is in vogue among the young generation in the USA. The analysis based on the paradigm of Gilles indicates that the duct tape fashion shows pluralistic features of as in the other postmodern cultural activities.

GIS 현장 요구분석을 기반으로 한 전문계 고등학교에서의 GIS 교육내용 개발

양숙희,성효현 한국지도학회 2007 한국지도학회지 Vol.7 No.2

현행 전문계 고등학교의 교육과정이 초급 GIS 전문 인력을 양성하기에 미흡하므로 이 점을 보완할 교육내용을 선정할 필요가 있다. 본 연구의 목적은 GIS 초급 인력 양성을 위해 전문계 고등학교에서의 GIS 교육내용을 개발하는 데 있다. 이를 위해 GIS 전문 업체 종사자를 대상으로 설문조사를 실시하여 현재 GIS 업체와 GIS 기술자들이 겪고 있는 문제점과 그들의 업무, 전문계 고등학교출신 기술자에게 요구되는 업무를 조사하였다. 그리고 조사결과를 바탕으로 하여 현장의 수요에 부응하는 전문계 고등학교에서의 GIS 교육내용을 개발하였다. 그 결과 GIS 이론, 기술, 응용과 관련된 과목이외에도 'CAD 실습', '프로그램 개발', '수치지도 실습', ‘컴퓨터 기초 실습’등과 같은 독립적인 과목이 필요하다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 전문계 고등학교 출신자들이 GIS 관련 업체로 진출하기 위해서는 전 학년에 걸친 대대적인 과목의 재구성이 필요하며, GIS 업체와의 긴밀한 협동 체제를 구축하여 산학협동과정을 운영할 필요가 있다. 본 연구는 GIS 업체의 수요에 맞추어 정규 교육기관인 전문계 고등학교의 GIS 관련학과에서 현장의 요구에 입각한 GIS교육내용을 개발하였다는 데 의의가 있다. Korea has been carrying out NGIS(National Geographic Information System) since 1995, and for this reason numerous GIS based systems are being developed. However, due to the lack of GIS specialists, there is insufficient work force to maintain and manage the various GIS based systems. The purpose of this study is to develop a GIS curriculum of vacational high school for training GIS technicians that meet the standards required in the GIS industry. In order to find out the demand of the work force in the GIS industry, GIS corporations were surveyed for analysis. The result states that GIS data generation and collection, GIS data input and correction, creation of user manual, system monitoring, GIS system operation, and user education were required for vocational high school graduate GIS technicians. The skills required to perform these work responsibilities were inquired by interviewing a GIS technician with over 5 years of experience. To meet the standards which is required in the GIS industry, GIS curriculum in vacational high school should include, 'CAD Laboratory,' 'Computer Programming,' 'Digital Mapping Exercise,' and 'Introduction to Computer,' in addition to GIS theory, GIS technic and GIS application as an independent academic course. This study is significant for the development of GIS curriculum that is not only feasible in formal school, but also suitable for the requirements of GIS corporations.