Analysis of the Jean Pants Street Fashion for Men in Seoul, 2012

( Min Jeong Lee ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2012 패션 비즈니스 Vol.16 No.6

This study researched the jeans street fashion for young men looked like 20s and 30s in Seoul, and analyzed jeans by silhouette by fit and color by washing. The photos were of jeans from the waist to the bottom; and among a total of 1,159 images, 847 images that could be analyzed were selected and used for the analysis. From the images used in the analysis, the jeans fits were categorized according to silhouette and color that were used for the visual selection. As a result, young men preferred fashion jeans like slim or skinny jeans. Most of the tight fitting skinny and slim jeans were slim baggy style jeans, like low waist & long rise with a low back york, which was a key trendy pants style. The jeans color analysis by washing finish showed that dark jeans were most frequently, most of the dark jeans had the original denim color based on the non or normal wash techniques. It is hoped that the results of this study can be used as basic data for the development of designs for jeans brands.

A STUDY ON THE WEARING CONDITION OF SKINNY JEANS OF WOMEN IN THEIR TWENTIES

Selin Choi,Wol-hee Do 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회(GFMC) 2015 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2015 No.06

Buying tight-fit pants by 20’s women who want to be looked like slim and having long legs has increased department store jeans sales and represents a ‘fashion horror fever’(“Skinny jeans”, 2006). Steady interest in skinny jeans for 20’s women transformed it from a fashionable item to an essential item. In particular, the selection as a best seller item and consistent skinny jean sales have established a ‘Ultra supper skinny fit’ fashion that emphasize a slim line (“Ultra super skinny jeans”, 2010). This study investigates the wearing condition and dissatisfaction of women in their twenties who mainly wear skinny jeans. The survey was completed by question investigation from June to July 2014 on 20’s aged women living in Gwangju. A total of 298 copies of questionnaire were used for the analysis. The questionnaire is made up of 28 questions: 4 general questions, 3 wearing conditions of jean pants, 10 wearing conditions of skinny jeans, and 11 fitness of skinny jeans. The analysis method used descriptive statistics like frequency, percentage, and mean value using SPSS Statistics 20.0. The majority of all respondents were 20’s women were mostly unmarried students. A total of 90% knew their general pant size and 79.9% selected skinny jeans for mainly wearing pant. The results of image perception survey for jean pants, they selected skinny jeans for most images such as ‘Slim look’, ‘Long leg look’, ‘Body reshaping’, and ‘Timeless’ except ‘Comfortable to act’. Women in their 20’s have a positive image of skinny jeans that corresponds with the above results in regards to the wearing of skinny jeans. Only 15.4% perceived the skinny jeans size; however, 90% perceived their general pants size and 73.5% selected ‘After wearing’ as they select pants size. The survey about fitness of wearing skinny jeans indicated dissatisfaction with, ‘There are distinctions according to tight-fit pants brands’, and they appealed the fitness dissatisfaction in several parts such as ‘waist’, ‘abdominal’, and ‘crotch’. They had also dissatisfaction in other parts: ‘pant length’ ‘wrinkles under the crotch’ and ‘crotch length’. Skinny jeans are essential items most frequent worn among various types of pants, and their awareness is very positive in 20’s women. However, most respondent have little perception about skinny jean pants size, especially with a dissatisfaction about waist, abdominal abdominal, crotch fitness and size difference per pant brands. Based on the results, skinny jeans sizing systems and pattern development will be done.

여성용 스키니 진의 브랜드별 패턴 특성 연구

오설영 ( Seol Young Oh ),서동애 ( Dong Ae Suh ) 복식문화학회 2013 服飾文化硏究 Vol.21 No.5

In the 2010s, skinny jeans were trendy, and they became a must-have for young women. The styles, clothing pressure and buying behavior of skinny jeans have been studied, but the patternmaking of skinny jeans has not been researched yet. To analyze skinny jeans patterns, we grouped skinny jeans into nine brands. They were sorted into three groups: special jeans brand, trendy jeans brand, and SPA brand. This study compared skinny jeans` sizing systems, product dimensions and pattern measurements in three brand groups. The appearance and fit of skinny jeans were evaluated by random groups of people in their 20s and 30s. The sizing systems for skinny jeans were different with KS K0051, and they were shown waist girth in inches. The waist and hip circumferences were different among brand groups. In product dimensions, trendy jeans brands had a shorter crotch length, a lower crotch depth, a narrower back crotch width, and a longer inseam than the others. The measurements of skinny jeans flat patterns were significantly different in as below; front crotch depth, front crotch height, front crotch length, back crotch extension, gap between back and front crotch depth, back crotch height, back crotch length, and center back angle. In the sensory survey results, trendy jeans brands were evaluated well in the fit of the waist line, hip line, crotch line, midthigh line, outseam, inseam, side waist line, crotch length and overall fit.

FROM COTTON KIMONOS TO THE JEANS INDUSTRY: THE DEVELOPMENT OF DENIM INDUSTRIAL CLUSTERS IN JAPAN

Rika Fujioka 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2017 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2017 No.07

This study examines how small weaving manufacturers in Japan managed to successfully transform their cotton kimono businesses during the phenomenon of the growing popularity of Western clothing in the 1970s, and develop within the Sanbi industrial cluster to become global leaders in the production of high-quality denim and jeans worldwide. Introduction Japanese denim companies are very small but remain competitive due to their quality, compared with Chinese, Mexican, and Turkish companies. Some of these Japanese companies have won the Premier Vision Fabrics Handle Prize, while others have created new denim fabrics, such as soft denim, for luxury brands. According to the data of the Office of Textile and Apparel (OTEXA), as a proportion of sales in 2015 the United States imported most of its blue denim fabric from Japan (28.9 percent), with China in second place (26.2 percent), and Mexico third (17.3 percent); in terms of volume, the United States imported blue denim fabric from China (36.3 percent), with Mexico in second place (24.8 percent), and Japan third (13.5 percent). How was it that Japanese denim companies developed to become such prominent leaders in the field? Most of these companies are clustered geographically, with jeans companies sitting side-by-side with dyeing, processing, and finishing factories. These clusters were originally set up for the production of Kasuri cotton kimono clusters, and only shifted into denim and jeans production in the 1970s. This study will shed light on the development process of the denim industry in Japan – focusing on the Sanbi district, the largest denim and jeans cluster – and will examine the success factors in the global market from a historical perspective using primary sources. The Westernization of Clothing One success factor is the social and culture background in Japan (Fujioka and Wubs, forthcoming). Before the Second World War most people in Japan – male and female, old and young – wore kimonos. A kimono is a traditional Japanese robe that is tied at the waist by a wide belt called an ‘obi’. It has no buttons, zippers, or any other kinds of fastening. The shape of the garment is very simple and it has little decoration. A kimono is made from many different types of fabric, including silk, cotton, wool, and linen. The type of fabric defined the kimono’s suitability for different occasions, such as a high-quality silk kimono for ceremonial events and a cotton one for casual wear. The type of fabric also reflected a person’s social position, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. During this time only the Samurai class could wear silk kimonos, while other social classes wore cotton kimonos. After 1868 people had freedom of choice in clothing, meaning that anyone could wear silk kimonos for weddings and funerals. Although Western-style clothing had already been introduced to the upper classes by the Japanese government during the Meiji Restoration, after the Second World War, the Japanese lifestyle began to be westernized at an ever-faster pace, particularly in the area of clothing. Along with the high economic growth in the late 1950s and early 1960s, the kimono market shrank and Western fashion became a mass phenomenon in Japan. First came tailor-made clothes for upper-class and upper-middle-class customers; after this, clothing companies rapidly increased their sales, and ready-to-wear clothing soon became common among every generation and income group in the 1970s. Jeans were one example of the clothing that was introduced at this time, and a niche market formed of mainly young customers who lived in urban areas. These young consumers had first seen jeans being worn by Americans from the General Headquarters (GHQ) during the recovery period, and they soon began to identify jeans as a symbol of freedom and individuality. With the increasing demand for jeans, several jeans and denim companies were established in the 1970s to capture this niche market. Since then the denim and jeans market in Japan has developed to specialize in high-quality premium denim and jeans. The Sanbi Industrial Cluster The main factor in the success of the Japanese denim and jeans industry is the effective transformation of the whole cluster. Cotton kimonos have a variety of styles based on various dyeing and weaving methods. The ‘Kasuri’ kimono, for example, is a type of cotton kimono that is dyed with indigo, requiring great skill in dyeing and weaving; as a result, it can be very expensive, although this type of cotton kimono is still regarded as casual, everyday clothing. There were three main industrial clusters for Kasuri kimonos in Japan, namely Kurume, Iyo, and Bingo, which had been established in around 1800. Among these, Bingo became the largest cluster and produced more mass products than the others in the 1960s. While Kurume and Iyo were striving to innovate a new Kasuri fabric and shifted to the high-end market to cover the decreasing demands of kimonos, the Bingo cluster created mass products more efficiently than before. It continued to increase its sales until 1960 with the improvement of technology, although in the 1970s sales began to decrease rapidly with the huge growth in demand for Western clothing (Shinichi Choshi Hensan Iinkai, 2002). Many manufacturers therefore suffered from the introduction of the new Western clothing. Some silk kimono manufacturers were able to shift their focus to the high-end market for ceremonial occasions due to their special place in Japanese society (Hashino, 2015). However, many cotton kimono manufacturers, particularly those in the Bingo cluster who focused on mass customers, were unable to do so, because of the shrinking casual kimono market. This industrial cluster was therefore forced by changing consumer demands to transform the whole nature of its business from the production of traditional cotton Kasuri kimonos to a brand new industry. The neighboring clusters of Bingo are Bizen and Bicchu, which were also cotton kimono clusters that used Kasuri fabric. Some manufacturers in Bizen who made kimono accessories started to produce ‘tabi’ (Japanese-style socks) in 1877 and then began sewing Western-style work clothes in the 1910s. In the 1920s many manufactures in the Bizen cluster started to produce Western-style school uniforms, which became increasingly popular (Fujii et al., 2007). This was a natural transition in terms of finding different uses for the same relevant technology: from the production of cotton fabric to tabi, and from tabi to school uniforms. All these products were made for daily use, and the same cutting and sewing skills for thick textiles that were used to make tabi were directly transferable to the production of work uniforms and school uniforms; by 1937 the Bizen cluster had become the largest producer of school uniforms in Japan. However, between 1965 and 1970 the demand for school uniforms fell, because the early generation of baby boomers had passed through school, and competition within each cluster became more intensive with the emergence of newcomers. In order to manage the distribution channel and build a stable production system, large cotton-spinning companies controlled the weaving mills and sewing factories and organized retailers to maintain retail prices. This was a well-known form of management in Japan at the time called ‘Keiretsu’. As a result, those manufacturers who were not working in partnership with any large spinning manufacturers found it very difficult to secure orders, and were eventually pushed out of the industry and forced to change the nature of their business. One of these small manufacturers in Bizen was called Big John, which had been established in 1940 to produce school uniforms. After transforming its business, it started to sew the first ‘made in Japan’ jeans using imported American denim in 1967, and later using Japanese denim in 1972 (Sugiyama, 2009). Its great success encouraged many of its surrounding manufacturers to join this emerging field, which resulted in the establishment of a whole new denim and jeans industry that spread across Bizen, Bingo, and Bicchu to the point where these three districts became collectively known as ‘Sanbi’ in Japanese. The Successful Transformation of Industrial Clusters New technology for producing denim and jeans was brought to Japan from the United States. Many denim companies started out as producers of Kasuri fabric and shifted to denim production in the 1960s and 1970s, using their existing skills and technology to make this transition. Although it was a natural path to take considering the change in consumer demand and the fact that both Kasuri fabric and jeans were dyed by indigo, there were many challenges involved in adapting to this change. Rope dyeing was the biggest hurdle that these manufacturers had to face, but they managed to learn the technique by reverse engineering American-made jeans and relying on their skills in indigo dyeing and sewing thick textiles. Making a success of this transition from a cotton kimono cluster into a denim and jeans cluster was the only way that these businesses could survive the huge growth in popularity of Western clothing in Japan. This whole transformational process was led by small, lesser-known manufacturers rather than by larger ones. As one of the major businesses in the Kasuri cluster in Japan, Bingo catered for the mass market, but was hardest hit by the introduction of Western clothing, as it was more difficult for its business model to adjust to westernization. Bizen, however, managed to shift to the production of Western clothing at an early stage, focusing on uniforms – and it was the dropout factories from the uniform industry that eventually became the driving force behind the emergence of the jeans industry. The resulting success of the Japanese denim business model then spread out across the cluster, which today enjoys an enhanced competitive advantage in the global market.

The Product Information in Online Jeans Shopping by Consumers` Evaluation Criteria

( Eun Ha Choi ),( Jong Suk Chun ) 복식문화학회 2010 Fashion, industry and education Vol.13 No.1

The purpose of this study was to find differences in evaluation criteria and product information based on jeans products consumers. The participants of this study were women age of 19 to 30 years. This study was implemented by descriptive survey method using questionnaires. A total 182 questionnaires were analyzed in this study. The subjects were grouped by the evaluation criteria of purchasing jeans through an online shopping. Finding of the study showed that, Group 1 was high involvement group. They conscious of both style feature and practicability of jeans when they bought jeans. Group 2 was low involvement group. They are not conscious of those features. The important factors were different by groups. The most important factors of purchasing jeans for Group 1 were fashion trend and practicality. Price was the most important factor for Group 2. They bought jeans at extremely low or high price. On the other hand, Group 1 bought jeans of diverse prices range. The popular shopping sites were different between two groups. The department store was the most important place purchasing jeans for both groups. The second important place was specialty stores for Group 1, and online shopping for Group 2. The usefulness of product informations were also examined when they evaluated the jeans at online shopping. The most useful product informations were leg cut style and rise length. Fit information was very important for Group 1. Group 1 considered that the function of zoomming the picture image was important. The material characteristic and name of brand were also useful than Group 2. But the size and care instruction were not highly useful.

패션 진의 스타일과 장식에 관한 조사 : 2006, 2007년 유행 아이템을 중심으로

박정례(Park, Jung-Ley) 한국조형디자인학회 2007 조형디자인연구 Vol.10 No.1

진(jeans)의상은 1800년대에는 기능적이고 단순한 형태의 작업복으로 만들어졌으나 현재에는 젊을 상징하는 캐주얼(casual)과 여러 계층의 연령대가 즐겨 입을 수 있는 트랜디(trendy)한 의상으로 발전하였다. 10대와 20대들이 즐겨 입는 주로 청색 진(blue jean)소재를 사용하는 정통적인 데님 의상들은 다양한 소재 개발과 워-싱 등의 후 가공 처리의 발달 등으로 다양한 질감(texture)과 색상(color), 톤 (tone)을 가진 소재로 발달하게 되고, 이러한 변화는 스타일(style)과 장식(decoration)있어서 다양한 변화를 제안할 수 있는 계기가 되었다. 이런 변화로 10대와 20대들을 위한 캐주얼(casual)뿐 아니라 30-40대 까지도 즐겨 입는 스타일과 클래식(classic)한 패션으로 연령층이 다양해졌으며 국내브랜드와 외국브랜드 등 많은 브랜드들이 다양한 스타일(style)과 장식(decoration)개념을 가진 디자인을 선보이고 있다. 연구자는 시중에 판매되고 있는 브랜드 중 10대 후반에서 20대중반까지의 그룹에서 인지도가 높은 브랜드를 진(jeans)의류의 바지(pants)를 중심으로 소재의 종류, 컬러, 스타일과 주머니 등에 나타난 장식의 변화를 중점적으로 조사하여 연구하였고 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 2006년도부터는 여성스러움을 강조하는 유행경향으로 국내에서 제안, 판매되고 있는 진의류 바지에서는 일반적으로 강조되는 벨트와 허리 장식이나 주머니에 나타나는 화려한 장식과 자수 장식 등의 로고(logo) 등을 볼 수 있다. 이는 캐쥬얼 진의류에 장식적인 요소들이 강하게 나타나고 있다는 것을 알 수 있다. 트랜드에 따른 진의 연구가 앞으로 진(jeans)의류 디자인 개발에 도움이 되고자 한다. Jeans clothing which simply used for an working clothes like overalls in 1800's, has developed as one of trendy casual clothes to symbolize youth and to be worn by various age ranges. The traditional blue jeans specially in favor with young people(teenagers and twenties) have developed with advanced material variations and processing skills such as washing technique: therefore, blue jeans has made diverse style changes with different textures, colors and tones. As the diverse changes became possible, jeans are able to cover broader ages of people in their 30's and 40's with more classical fashion styling, moreover, various international and national fashion brands are brought out products with diversity of concepts styles and decorations. From the year of 2006, nationally selling jean products are tend to have lots of decorative elements as emphasizing feminine aspect are became trendy. Emphasizing figured belts and fancy ornaments and logos on the pockets can be the good examples. This study purpose to research the changes that focused on material types, color and styles on the pockets of currently selling jean-clothes brands in favor with teens and 20's. And I hope for this jean style trend research to do much for design developments.

슬림핏 청바지 패턴 개발을 위한 청바지 착용 실태 조사

신가영,도월희 한국의류산업학회 2020 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.22 No.3

This study provides information on how to improve the wearing sensation and the fit of slim-fit jeans through an analysis of actual wearing conditions and dissatisfaction. The study is based on a questionnaire survey. A survey was conducted on 296 women in their 20s living in Korea to analyze wearing dissatisfaction with slim-fit jeans. The study used descriptive statistics for analysis using SPSS Statistics Ver.23. Surveys on the actual situation of wearing jeans and level of dissatisfaction indicated that most women in their 20s mainly wore slim-fit jeans and were aware of the size of their jeans. Most tended to double-check the size of the jeans, indicating that the inaccurate sizing system of slim-fit jeans caused confusion for consumers. In addition, the results of the survey on the most considered parts of the body when consumers buy jeans are waist, thigh and leg length. They insisted that their waists were thin and their thighs were thicker than their waists; so their pants would not fit and they were obese. There is a problem between waist size and thigh size; therefore, it is necessary to develop new patterns for slim-fit jeans with improved fit around the waist area that can improve the negative results of surveys on the level of dissatisfaction, indicating discomfort in the waist, belly, and thigh areas while wearing slim-fit jeans.

여자 청소년들의 건강유해성 지각과 스키니 진 구매행동에 대한 연구 -외모관련행동의 영향력을 중심으로-

함선자 ( Seon Ja Ham ),정혜정 ( Hye Jung Jung ),오경화 ( Kyung Wha Oh ) 한국의류산업학회 2012 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.14 No.3

This study investigates the effects of appearance-relative behaviors of adolescent female consumers on their awareness of heath harmfulness and skinny jeans purchasing behaviors and identifies the influential variables on the wearing satisfaction of skinny jeans. A survey was carried out with middle and high school female students and 386 responses were analyzed using descriptive analysis, factor analysis, a reliability test, and regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows, 1) From the results of the factor analysis on appearance-related behaviors and clothing benefits of skinny jeans for female adolescents, each of the variance assessments clearly showed factorial structures. 2) As a result of looking at the influences of appearance-relative behaviors on the clothing benefits of skinny jeans, respondents who paid more attention to their appearance tended to consider hygiene and activity comfort less important. In addition, respondents who had higher fashion concerns tended to consider aesthetic, practicability, desired trend, and activity comfort more important. 3) Respondents who had higher fashion concerns and considered activity comfort more important among skinny jeans benefits showed a higher level of satisfaction when wearing skinny jeans. However, respondents who thought aesthetic and health hygiene more important when buying skinny jeans showed a lower level of satisfaction when wearing skinny jeans. Female adolescents showed less satisfaction when wearing skinny jeans, as they perceived harmfulness about skinny jeans more.

진즈의 패션화에 관한 연구

이미숙(Mi Sook Lee),염혜정(Hae Jung Yum) 한국디자인문화학회 2008 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.14 No.2

The purpose of this study has examined the way in which the humble pair of jeans was transformed from practical, rural and blue collar work clothes into a fashion garment synonymous with youth to investigate how the jeans are treasured articles of clothing worn around the world-a uniform for the masses, from babies to senior citizens. This study was based on documentary(preceding research, fashion related documents and fashion magazines from 1850s to 2000s) research. The results of this study were as follows. The Jeans was created by Levi Strauss in the 1850s and considered as work clothes until 1920s. The Break came in the 1930s when the jeans was clothed as town wear and 1950s when middle class, white rock singers and film stars adopted the Levi Strauss 501 style and black leather jackets. Jeans epitomized the values of 1960s youth culture and by the mid-1970s, the wearers of jeans increased and in 1978, designer jeans were born. Calvin Klein was the first to market signature jeans. In 1980s, jeans have become respectable dress, not only for leisure but for a casual, dressed-up look. The jeans has been symbolizing the wealth and style of its wearer since 1990s. In conclusion, the success of jeans as a ubiquitous fashion and a symbol of youth testifies to the adaptability and opportunism of the fashion industry and to the mercurial tastes of the fashionable classes.

대학생들의 청바지 구매 행동과 소비자 특성에 따른 평가 기준의 차이

박나리,박재옥 복식문화학회 2009 服飾文化硏究 Vol.17 No.4

This study was conducted to investigate purchasing behavior of jeans consumers and to find differences in jeans evaluative criteria according to consumers' characteristics. Male and female university students participated in the study. Quota sampling method was used to collect the data. Data from 492 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. Descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's alpha coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and t-test were conducted. Three factors of jeans evaluative criteria classified (i.e., external criteria, internal/aesthetic criteria, internal/quality criteria). Results indicated that most of respondents put on jeans wear more than three times per a week and 38.1% of respondents reported that they owned three to four jeans products on average. Department store was the most used place to buy jeans product with 44.2%. 27.5% of respondents spent from 50,000 won to 100,000 won on purchasing jeans. Style was the highest important jeans evaluative criterion with 36.2%, followed by fitness, price, color, condition of washing treatment. Women respondents considered aesthetic criteria and quality criteria more importantly than men did. Respondents who were on a high income and spent more than 200,000 won per a month on apparel more concerned aesthetic criteria and external criteria than the other respondents did. Results of this study provide a basis for understanding jeans consumers' purchase behavior and evaluative criteria.