SWASH 모형을 이용한 해운대 해수욕장의 해빈류 특성

강민호(Min Ho Kang),김진석(Jin Seok Kim),박정규(Jung Kyu Park),이종섭(Jong Sup Lee) 한국해안해양공학회 2015 한국해안해양공학회 논문집 Vol.27 No.6

본 연구에서는 SWASH 모형을 이용하여 계절별 이상파랑에 의한 해운대 해수욕장에서 불규칙파의 파랑변형 및 해빈류 특성을 분석하였다. 개경계에서 불규칙파는 JONSWAP 스펙트럼을 적용하였다. 입사파 조건은 국립해양조사원에서 제공하는 2014년 파랑관측자료를 바탕으로 계절별 대표파를 선정하였다. SWASH에 의한 계절별 해빈류 계산결과는 현장조사 결과와 비교·검토하였다. 하계의 경우 S 계열의 파랑이 지배적이며 동백섬측에서 미포측으로 연안류가 지배적으로 발생하였고 해운대 해수욕장 중앙부근에서는 이안류가 발생하였다. 동계의 경우 ESE 계열의 파랑이 지배적이며 해운대 해수욕장 중앙부근에서 각각 동백섬측과 미포측으로 향하는 연안류가 발생하였다. To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration(KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

XBEACH 모형에 의한 해운대 해수욕장 양빈후의 해빈류 특성 변화

강태순(Tae-Soon Kang),박명원(Myeong-Won Park),김진석(Jin-Seok Kim),이종섭(Jong-Sup Lee) 한국해양공학회 2016 韓國海洋工學會誌 Vol.30 No.6

In this study, to predict the effect of beach nourishment at Haeundae Beach, the waves and wave-induced currents were compared before and after beach nourishment using the XBEACH model. Representative wave conditions were determined for the data observed during 2014 (KHOA). Then, the Hs,max and Hs,1/10 values, and their prevalent directions, were used in the numerical modeling input data. A variable grid system was used for the 5 km × 2.5 km model areas, and irregular waves based on the JONSWAP spectrum were given as incident wave conditions. In the summer season, eastward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. Before the beach nourishment, the maximum speed around the surf zone was 1.2–1.5 m/s in the central zone of the beach, whereas the maximum speed increased to 1.4–1.6 m/s at the same areas when the currents toward Mipo Harbor were blocked as an effect of the groins after the beach nourishment. In the winter season, westward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. After the beach nourishment, the maximum current speed increased slightly around the surf zone in the central area of the beach, and the littoral current speed decreased at the submerged breakwaters located at Dongbaek Island. As a result, after the beach nourishment, the maximum wave-induced currents increased about 10% in the surf zone of the central area of the beach.

파랑에 의한 연안류의 수치모델에 관한 연구

이정만(Jung-Maan Lee),김재중(Jae-Joong Kim),박정철(Jung-Chul Park) 한국해양공학회 1998 韓國海洋工學會誌 Vol.12 No.3

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement.<br/> Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

연안역 개발에 따른 해빈류 변화 예측

이중우,최성용,김강민 한국항해항만학회 1998 한국항만학회논문집 Vol.9 No.-

Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave, especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities, we have to know the local condition of waves, mean sea level, and so on. In this study, we used a monochromatic 2-dimensional shallow water wave equation combining with radiation stress and friction terms to develop a finite difference numerical model. The established model, then, was applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan Coastal Zone, YeonHwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-dimensional graphics and made comparision between before and after development.

월포항 인근해역에서의 해빈류 특성

이성대 한국수자원학회 2000 한국수자원학회논문집 Vol.33 No.6

표사이동에 따른 해빈변형 및 해저지형 변동 그리고 쇄파대 부근에서의 확산거동은 연안역에서의 환경문제를 야기하며 이러한 문제의 해결을 위해서는 해빈류의 유황을 정도높게 예측할 필요가 있다. 이에 따라 기존의 해빈류 수치모형이 몇가지 제안되어 왔지만 실제 해역의 복잡한 해저지형에 의해 발생하는 해빈류를 만족하게 재현하기는 쉽지 않으며 모형의 검증은 현재까지 어려운 과제로 남아있다. 본 연구에서는 실제해역에서의 해빈류에 관한 현지관측 및 수치모형실험을 실시하 The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport or dispersion in the surf zone, which often gives rises to serious environmental problems in the coastal region. Although many

해운대 해빈에서 특정 외력하의 표사이동 특성

김권수,유하상,박형수,김강민 한국항해항만학회 2013 한국항해항만학회지 Vol.37 No.6

해운대 해수욕장은 육지로부터 유입되는 모래 공급원의 감소와 고파랑 및 반사파 등의 영향으로 백사장의 폭이 매년 감소하는 것으 로 나타났다. 표사이동에 따른 해빈변형 문제를 해결하기 위해서는 해빈류의 특성을 예측할 필요가 있다. 본 연구에서는 해운대 해수욕장에 대 한 장기적이고 종합적인 관측자료를 바탕으로, 계절별 대표파랑과 이상파에 대한 해빈류 및 표사이동 수치실험을 실시하였다. 여름에는 평상파 및 S계열 파랑에 의해서 해빈류는 연안을 따라 동쪽으로 흘러 미포측에서 퇴적되는 양상을 보이고, 겨울에는 평상파 및 E 계열의 파랑에 의해 해빈류는 서향하여 동백섬 인근에서 퇴적양상을 보이고 있다. 50년빈도 고파랑 내습시 SSW 파랑은 해운대 중앙에서 이안류가 발생하고, ESE 파랑은 미포측에서 연안을 따라 서측으로 흐름을 발생시키는 것으로 나타났다. The width of Haeundae beach has been decreasing annually due to the loss of sand from land, high waves, reflected waves, etc.. The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport. In the this study, Numerical experiments were performed with seasonal representative wave on the basis of a long term and comprehensive survey data. In summer, we found the deposition of Mipo by longshore current eastly by ordinary and S waves, and in winter, the deposition of Dongback-island by longshore current westly by ordinary and E waves. In addition, rip current occurs in the middle of Haeundae beach by 50 year return period wave and current westly along the coast by ESE directional wave.

해운대 해빈에서 특정 외력하의 표사이동 특성

김권수(Gweon-Su Kim),유하상(Ha-Sang Ryu),박형수(Hyoung-Su Park),김강민(Kang-Min Kim) 한국항해항만학회 2013 한국항해항만학회지 Vol.37 No.6

해운대 해수욕장은 육지로부터 유입되는 모래 공급원의 감소와 고파랑 및 반사파 등의 영향으로 백사장의 폭이 매년 감소하는 것으로 나타났다. 표사이동에 따른 해빈변형 문제를 해결하기 위해서는 해빈류의 특성을 예측할 필요가 있다. 본 연구에서는 해운대 해수욕장에 대한 장기적이고 종합적인 관측자료를 바탕으로, 계절별 대표파랑과 이상파에 대한 해빈류 및 표사이동 수치실험을 실시하였다. 여름에는 평상파 및 S계열 파랑에 의해서 해빈류는 연안을 따라 동쪽으로 흘러 미포측에서 퇴적되는 양상을 보이고, 겨울에는 평상파 및 E 계열의 파랑에 의해 해빈류는 서향하여 동백섬 인근에서 퇴적양상을 보이고 있다. 50년빈도 고파랑 내습시 SSW 파랑은 해운대 중앙에서 이안류가 발생하고, ESE 파랑은 미포측에서 연안을 따라 서측으로 흐름을 발생시키는 것으로 나타났다. The width of Haeundae beach has been decreasing annually due to the loss of sand from land, high waves, reflected waves, etc.. The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport. In the this study, Numerical experiments were performed with seasonal representative wave on the basis of a long term and comprehensive survey data. In summer, we found the deposition of Mipo by longshore current eastly by ordinary and S waves, and in winter, the deposition of Dongback-island by longshore current westly by ordinary and E waves. In addition, rip current occurs in the middle of Haeundae beach by 50 year return period wave and current westly along the coast by ESE directional wave.

FUNWAVE 모형을 이용한 실규모 모형해역에서 파량변형 및 해빈류의 계산

조영준(Young Jun CHO),박일흠(Il Heum PARK),이영권(Young Kweon LEE) 한국해양환경·에너지학회 2006 한국해양환경공학회 학술대회논문집 Vol.2006 No.-

비선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 사용한 FUNWAVE 모형을 이용하여 실규모 해역에서 파랑변형 및 해빈류를 예측하였다. 모형 검증은 Berkhoff et at.(1982)의 실험과 비교하여 천수, 굴절, 회절, 쇄파 등의 파랑변형이 매우 좋은 일치를 보이며, 특히 이안제에 관한 실험에서는 구조물 배후로 들어오는 회절현상을 매우 잘 재현하였다. 그리고 일정경사에서 평균수위 변화에 관한 실험은 쇄파점의 위치를 제외하고는 비교적 좋은 일치를 보였다. 따라서, 실규모 해역에서 적용성은 Noda 등(1974)의 수심 자료에서 파고분포와 해빈류의 패턴을 잘 재현하였다. By using FUNWAVE model that was applied nolinear Boussinesq equation made an estimate of wave deformation and wave-induced current in real seal areas. A model verification compared with laboratory data of Berkhoff et a1(1982) and the result of wave deformation such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, breaking had well accord. Especially, in the modeling of offshore breakwater, diffraction phenomenon represented very well around backward of structure, and modeling for change of mean sea level had good agreement in uniform slope except of surf zone. Therefore, according to apply real seal area which is depth data of Noda et al.(1974), pattern of wave height distribution and wave-induced current well represented.

연안역 구조물 주위에서의 해빈류의 수치해석에 관한 연구

민병형(Byung-Hyung Min),이상화(Sang-Hwa Lee),김인철(In-Chul Kim) 한국해양공학회 1991 韓國海洋工學會誌 Vol.5 No.1

This study is to predict accurately the wave induced current accuring by the radiation stress which acts as the driving force around Nearshore structure.<br/> For the wave induced current, the depth integrated and time averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is derived from the continuity and momentum equation of an incompressible fluid. Numerical solutions are obtained by a finite difference method for the governing equation.<br/> In the vicinity of a structure, computed flow patterns show good agreement with the hydraulic experimental data. The numerical results obtained by neglecting the convective term show a large change of alongshore and offshore current.

월파허용방파제에 의한 해수교환 수치모의

김인호(In-Ho Kim),이정렬(Jung-Lyul Lee) 한국해양공학회 2010 韓國海洋工學會誌 Vol.24 No.3

This study presents a numerical simulation of sea water-exchange as a preliminary accessing tool of water quality in the protected shore behind a overtopped breakwater. The overtopped breakwater is taken into account for a safe swimming and beach protection. The overtopping rate is calculated by empirical models and the consequent currents, known as wave-induced currents, are calculated under the conditions of H.W.O.S.T and L.W.O.S.T. The rate of sea water exchange is used to evaluate the characteristics of sea water exchange and calculated through the simulation processes such as advective discharging through the outlets and random-walking diffusion of particles released within a basin. The numerical results show that the overtopped waves sufficiently improve the water exchange without healthless stagnation of contaminated mass and the consequent currents are not too strang for swimming.