Measuring Apparel Design Attributes for Cross Cultural Product Development and Marketing

Nancy J,Miller,Mary Littrell,J,R,Campbell 한국마케팅과학회 2006 한국마케팅과학회 학술대회 발표 논문집 Vol.- No.-

The design process, involving Identification and differentiation of consumer derived benefits and then establishing product position, can be further complicated With the additional consideration of international market segments. This research details the second phase of a project originally developed to modify and validate an instrument measuring perceptions and preferences of garment design characteristics. In this second phase, a sample of 238 U.S. college age females was targeted to test twelve garments consisting of three styles, three fabric designs, and two fabric colorways as stimuli in generating evaluations of garment acceptance and potential purchase. Findings from the first phase, involving instrument development, are compared with findings derived in the second phase, concerning consumer evaluation of garments.

Exploring US Millennial consumers’ consumption values in relation to traditional and social cause apparel product attributes and purchase intentions

Nancy J. Miller,Ruoh-Nan Terry Yan,Daniela Jankovska,Camille Hensely 한국마케팅과학회 2017 Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Vol.8 No.1

Millennial consumers, born between 1980 and 2000, are one of the largest consumer groups, yet there is limited knowledge about their apparel product purchasing intentions. Millennials are said to make sustainability-based decisions and to have a strong social and environmental consciousness. This study explores US Millennial consumers’ consumption values in relation to social cause product attributes of environment, labor, and traceability along with 12 more traditional attributes such as fi t or style. Consumption values include the perceived importance of functional, monetary, emotional, social, and epistemic benefi ts derived from the apparel products. Online survey data were collected from 307 students attending a major western US university. The research hypotheses are tested using regression analyses with jeans as the apparel product category. Results suggest that traditional attributes remain a stronger infl uence on consumption values than social cause attributes, and that social cause product attributes, while infl uencing four consumption values, did not infl uence the social consumption value. Consumption values infl uence US Millennial consumers’ purchase intentions and these mediate the infl uence of traditional and social cause attributes on purchase intentions. Further investigation is suggested for clarifying the discrepancy between what is reported regarding Millennial consumers’ convictions and their intended apparel purchase behavior.

EXPLORING RURAL-URBAN APPAREL MANUFACTURING SUPPLY CHAIN CONNECTIONS: TWO COMMUNITY CASE STUDIES

Nancy J. Miller,Carol Engel-Enright 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2017 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2017 No.07

Introduction The manufacturing of apparel is the third-largest industry in the world, generating $700 billion annually (Jacobo, 2016). However, over the last 20 years, the US has lost 90% of its apparel manufacturing jobs (Bland, 2013). In response, the US Department of Commerce considers the importance of strengthening American manufacturing to be a key piece of economic recovery. They stated that large manufacturers needed to play a key role in, “cultivating the capabilities of small firms in their supply chains and spurring cross-pollination of expertise across firms” (Supply Chain Innovation: Strengthening Small Manufacturing, 2015, p. 3). This National Science Foundation funded research investigates the development of new, small US cut and sew firms as providing a potentially important link with larger, urban firms in the US apparel manufacturing supply chain. The objectives of this qualitative research are to: 1) ascertain social as well as economic challenges to establishing viable cut and sew firms in two rural US communities; and 2) examine the emerging issues in the apparel manufacturing supply chain; and 3) build propositions for research directions. Theoretical framework From an economic-sociological perspective, business, organizations, are embedded in larger institutional environments (DiMaggio & Powel, 1983, Granovetter, 1985, Meyer & Rowan, 1977, Meyer & Scott, 1983). The firm is seen as a part of a social-economic system with strong ties to others that can offer both business advantages (Di Maggio & Powel, 1983) or disadvantages (Uzzi, 1997). Institutional theory thus links social and cultural meaning systems or norms to the business environment (Handelman & Arnold, 1999). An Institutional theoretical framework proposes that in the economic environment, there are norms or rules that participants are expected to comply with if the organizations involved are to receive support and achieve legitimacy (Arnold, Handelman, & Tigert, 1996). Business owners or managers strive to legitimize their businesses, thus elevating investors’, suppliers’, and potential collaborators’ confidence in their competency to provide the specified products or services. This theory provides a foundation for examining the process through which small startup businesses, particularly rural apparel cut and sew firms, balance economic strategic actions and adherence to societal norms internally within their community and externally across a variety of apparel supply chain businesses located in non-adjacent urban communities. Current approach and preliminary results Using the Institutional theoretical perspective, we follow the initial stages of development for two apparel cut and sew centers in rural communities and their navigation of new businesses into the apparel manufacturing industry. Prior to outsourcing of apparel, many small agricultural-based communities across the state had manufacturing centers that provided income for local community members. Community leaders have long sought ideas for returning light manufacturing to their communities for local investment, job creation, and economic growth. Rural county economic development officers set up community interest meetings to see if there was interest in addressing the apparel industry need for quick speed-to-market and greater quality control through domestic manufacturing located closer to company headquarters within the state. Meetings in two communities, located in the northeastern part of the state, generated interest from local investors who have recently moved to open cut and sew centers. Four additional communities, located in the southeastern section of the state, await proof-of-concept prior to moving forward. Given the larger plan for the centers, the concept of specialization in manufacturing was determined for growth and expansion across the state; thus, one center was focused on woven apparel production and the other on knit apparel production. Cooperation and collaboration were important business values to prevent price competition and to potentially provide fulfillment of large scale orders. Longitudinal approach and research questions To address the objectives of this early stage work we used a case study approach to capture information. Data was collected from US Census Bureau and from interviews with investors, managers, workers, large manufacturing management, industry specialists in sourcing and equipment, as well as individuals connected to economic development and Extension. Please see Table 1. summarizing case study findings and emerging themes. In addition to these findings we employ a method frequently found in the analysis of an institutional theoretical perspective known as event history analysis. In time, this study will measure the temporal and sequential unfolding of unique events that transform the interpretation and meaning of social and economic structures (Steel, 2005; Thorton & Ocasio, 2008). This method will enable accommodation of data at multiple levels of analysis involving the individual (members of the cut and sew centers), organizational (cut and sew center firms), and environment (community and industry interactions). Event history is used to assess the five elementary concepts of – state (dependent variable, cut and sew center continuance), event (defines the transitions or experiences of the cut and sew centers), duration (length of time), risk period (potential for exposure to the particular event), censoring (not experiencing the event) (Vermunt, 2007). Thus far, we have initial case study data and documentation of events for two newly established cut and sew centers, but will continue to collect data as four additional cut and sew centers evolve. The following research questions address the five elementary concepts. We address the following research questions in meeting Objective 1 of this study: RQ 1. What are the social institutional centered events and consequences? RQ 2. How do different economic organizations contribute to firm evolution? RQ 3. What risks are involved that could inhibit or enable firm development? To address Objective 2 of this study, we focus on the following research questions framed around emerging issues expected to shape the apparel industry: RQ 4. What are the local capabilities? RQ 5. What role does technology play in firm emergence and development? RQ 6. How does the speed to market capability evolve? RQ 7. What are the industry expectations for domestic apparel production? Implications Early analyses of the two cut and sew centers highlights commonalities that are central to Institutional theory. In partially addressing Research Questions 1 through 3, we have found that there are several emerging issues that stem from weak or delicate linkages of social and cultural meaning systems or norms to the business environment (Handelman & Arnold, 1999). Though the investors, managers, and workers desire to meet industry expectations, there is a gap between the localized perspective and industry perspectives with neither having a strong understanding as to how to return the production to a domestic process. Years of outsourcing have weakened linkages and knowledge has been lost. Training is needed in commercial sewing, creating connections to industry, sourcing trims, ownership of goods, and pricing the production. Thus, as proposed in an Institutional theoretical framework, there are norms or rules that participants are expected to comply with if the organizations involved are to receive support and achieve legitimacy; however in this business arena, the rules are no longer clearly established. Further, the embeddedness of the cut and sew firms in the communities, though appearing to be currently well supported, may be moved as the cut and sew firms gain linkages beyond the community. In addressing Research Questions 4 through 7, we have found that though the support from the local communities has been strong both socially and financially, the learning curve was steep for both of the cut and sew centers in working with clients and educating clients in the product development process of sample pattern to grading to marker making for production cutting as well as procuring thread, findings, labels, hangtags, and packaging for delivery to stores. The move from home sewing to commercial sewing has involved considerable training of the managers and workers. Training featured understanding of the different machines, threading, and tension issues to ensure quality standards for apparel construction. Collaboration was facilitated by a technical consultant’s interface with an industrial sewing supplier and equipment repair company. Training of one-piece flow manufacturing work improved timing efficiency and quality control. The technical consultant spent days on-site and sewing with the team to solve process flow problems and study quality control issues. Issues of timing and efficient production process revolved around changing thread and adjusting machine and stitch tension for various contracts. Issues also emerged in the supply chain of contract manufacturing. Many of the clients were not ready for production, either due to financial commitments or understanding of the process from designing sample lines to marketing apparel products to retail stores and consumers. This required a change in plans to market the cut and sew center directly to the industry. The industrial sewers were flexible with producing various knit or woven sewn products. Issues related to managing a domestic cut and sew facility involved ensuring that all components were received on time, planning time, and estimating the costs involved with fulfilling manufacturing contracts. Data collection continues as the two established centers advance and four additional centers launch in the next two years. From this initial data and to meet the third objective of this inductive research, we offer propositions that warrant further analyses as the cut and sew centers more through various phases of development. Data will be collected to address propositions. P1 The greater the agreement in norms or rules that guide the apparel supply chain process, the stronger the business relationships among contractors, manufacturers, and cut and sew centers. P2 Legitimization of rural community cut and sew centers among the more urban supply chain members will build collaboration and reduce perceived risk in competency to provide specified products or services. P3 Increased collaboration among rural cut and sew centers in terms of shared knowledge and resources will increase perceived economic benefits to the individual centers and to the rural communities.

US Consumers’ Perceptions of Garments Inspired by Indonesian Culture

Shipra Gupta,Nancy J,Miller 한국마케팅과학회 2010 Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Vol.1 No.2

It is evident that there has been increase in integration of global economies as trade barriers were lifted in 2005 resulting in free trade. After agriculture, marketing of hand-produced, cultural products constitutes the second most important source of income in less developed countries of the world. The objectives of this study were to examine US consumers’ perceptions of garments that were culturally inspired by a specific sending culture to better understand the following: (1) perceptions of garment familiarity and garment complexity; (2) the relationship between perceived familiarity and garment adoption/acceptance; (3) the relationship between perceived familiarity and garment adoption/acceptance; (4) acceptance for garments culturally inspired by consumers’ cultural setting or geographic location; (5) acceptance for garments culturally inspired among the different age groups ; and (6) delineation of US consumers’ cultural creativity. To accomplish this endeavor an instrument, developed for measuring consumers’ responses to design characteristics, was tested on US female consumers from five areas of the country and in two age categories. The instrument developed integrated visual stimuli of garments with Likert-type scales and provided consumer data for conducting basic research. Garment attributes included three styles, two color ways, and two fabric print (3 x 2 x 2) =12 garments. The analyses were exploratory in that concepts and relationships were evaluated in a non-causal approach to provide a basis for further research. Generalizatibility was addressed through analysis of multiple consumer groups; however the fashion aspects of the stimuli prevent broad-spectrum application. This study focuses on garments that are culturally inspired by Indonesia as the sending culture. Indonesia is a country with strong textile dyeing and printing traditions. Indonesia is open to westernized silhouettes and it is also an important global source for textiles and clothing production. The Indonesian textile and clothing industry is vertically integrated, encompassing almost every stage of production and contributes significantly to the country’s economy. Rogers’ Diffusion of Innovation theory provides a foundation for examining issues that inhibit or encourage the adoption of ideas, products, or technologies as they are introduced to individuals or groups of people. Within Roger’s model is a five stage innovation-decision process. This research is concerned with the persuasion stage where the individual forms a favorable or unfavorable attitude toward the innovation. The persuasion stage provided a foundation for examining relationships between familiarity, complexity, and acceptance of Indonesian inspired garments. The two persuasion characteristics of interest were compatibility and complexity of Indonesian inspired products for US consumers. Compatibility reflects how well an innovation is perceived to match existing social norms, needs, and expectations. Complexity concerns how difficult the innovation is perceived as to understand. Diffusion of Innovation is a generic adoption model for innovative ideas and products and was therefore somewhatrestrictive for applications to fashion product adoption. Sproles’Fashion Adoption Theory was thus also employed to understand the concepts of familiarity, complexity and acceptance in the context of women’s apparel attitudes of garment color, fabric print, and style. Also examined in this research were the differences in US consumer responses based on geographic location, age, and cultural creativity. Social influences, socioeconomic characteristics and behavioral norms fluctuate across the North American continent. Subnations are said to exist that define eight differing regions of the US and hold distinguishable characteristics. This research examined the following five subnations and their general US region.

미국 소도시 소기업의 시장지향성 및 혁신성이 기업성과에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구

최윤정 ( Yun Jung Choi ),낸시밀러 ( Nancy J. Miller ),전현주 ( Hyun Joo Jeon ) 한국중소기업학회 2014 기업가정신과 벤처연구 Vol.17 No.3

본 연구는 미국 소 도시 소규모 기업들의 시장 지향성의 다양한 면모와 혁신성에 대해 조사한 것이다. 미국 전 역에 걸쳐 인구 2만 이하 소도시에 위치한 소규모 기업들을 대상으로 전화 인터뷰와 설문조사를 실시한 후 그 중 20명 이하의 종업원, 그리고 매출액이 10억 미만인 소기업 소유주 또는 경영자들이 설문조사에 응답하였다. 다중회귀분석결과, 소규모 경영자들의 경쟁(자) 그리고 소비자 지향성은 기업 혁신성에 유의적 영향을 미치었으며, 기업혁신성, 경쟁(자) 그리고 소비자 지향성, 이 세 요인들 중, 소비자 지향성이 소기업 소유주 또는 경영자들의 비지니스 만족도에 긍정적으로 기여하는 것으로 나타났다. 한편, 기업혁신성, 경쟁(자) 그리고 소비자 지향성, 이 세 요인들 가운데, 기업혁신성만이 가장 뚜렷이 소기업 매출성과에 긍정적 영향을 미쳤으며 기존 연구와는 다르게 경쟁(자) 그리고 소비자 지향성은 소기업 매출에 유의적 영향을 미치지 않는 것으로 나타났다. 결론적으로 미국 소도시 소기업에 있어서 시장지향성이 기업혁신성을 이끌어 내며그 기업혁신성은 기업의 매출성과에 긍정적으로 기여하는 것으로 나타났다. The study investigated various aspects of market orientation and innovation performed by small-sized businesses in small towns of the U.S. The objectives for the study were: 1) to examine market orientation in relation to business innovation and business performance and 2) to examine business innovation in relation to business performance in small businesses in small towns. Quantitative data were collected from small business owners/managers operating with less than 20 employees and with annual sales of $1 million or less across the continental U.S. Small businesses located in communities of less than 20,000, counties adjacent and non-adjacent to non-metropolitan areas were chosen for the study. The results of the multiple regression analyses indicated that the competitor and customer market orientation were found to be positive and significant in explaining the variability of business innovation in small town business firms. The small town businesses were more innovative if they were more market-oriented. Among the three variables - business innovation, competitor market orientation, and customer market orientation - customer market orientation had the most significant influence on small business owners/managers`` perceived overall business success. Only business innovation among the three variables significantly influenced small town business firms`` gross profits. Contrary to conventional findings, competitor market orientation and customer market orientation did not significantly affect small businesses`` gross profits with innovation included in the equation. Implications and directions for future research are discussed.

농촌소비자의 구매행동에 관한 연구

최윤정 ( Yun Jung Choi ),낸시밀러 ( Nancy J. Miller ) 한국소비자학회 2008 소비자학연구 Vol.19 No.2