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양숙향(Suk Hyang Yang),김용서(Yong Seo Kim) 한국복식학회 1998 服飾 Vol.39 No.-
The objective of this study is to examine the costumes of the period covered in the writings of Shilhak (practical science) scholars and to research the history of costumes and their characteristics by examining how they are worn in genre paintings which are said to describe the actual life of the period. This should be studied in order to correctly establish the history of costumes. To begin with, through the writings of the representative Shilhak scholars who are thought to have affected the changes in ordinary costumes for woman, this study examined how ordinary woman of the period looked in their costumes and how they regarded various costumes they had. Then, how their viewpoints of costumes influenced ordinary costumes was investigated. Not only relics, but what was commonly worn, as they appeared in the genre paintings that contain information about daily living of that period, were researched chronologically. The results of this study showed that the change in ordinary costumes for woman in the late Choson period was affected by Shilhak scholars who had ideologies of Shilsakusi (use of positive methods in studying), Yiyonghusaeng (the promotion of commerce and industry and the development of techonologies), and Kyo˘ngsech`iyong (pursuit of stability in a rural economy). Moreover, after those changes there were many more changes. However, the criticism of costumes of that time and the will of revolution affected a partial change in costumes, and after some time, costumes changed directly. The forms of the costumes had been changed in a variety of ways following the tendencies of the times, but the origin of today`s Hanbok (Korean traditional dress) had already been fixed in the late Choson period. Yet, today`s hanbok are for special occasions, not worn as ordinary clothing. Thus, there are several reasons why the hanbok is not suitable for daily life. One of the reasons is that Koreans could not cope with the western costumes independently imported during Japanese occupation in the last period of the Choson Dynasty and continuing the Japanese Colony. Thus, only a part of the ordinary costume of the late Choson period has remained until now.
광주 출토 16세기 답호의 봉제법과 구성상의 특징에 관하여-하천 고운 분묘 출토복을 중심으로-
양숙향(Yang. Suk-Hyang),서명희(Sea. Myung-Hee),박양경(Bark. Yang-Kyoung) 한복문화학회 2001 韓服文化 Vol.4 No.4
This study Is on the sewing construction of the Dapho in 16th Century excavated from Tomb of Hachen 00, Un. It Is to examine that the form and sewing construction at reconstruction process of the Dapho to be been excavated first time in Owangju . Chonnam local among relics of special exhibition opened in Owangju folklore museum the last year winter.<br/> Three Daphoes are raw cotton one layer Dapho, raw ramie one layer Dapho, brown silk two layers Dapho. It appear generally big size cotton cloth more than in length size ramie cloth and two layers Dapho more than one layer Dapho. Others are similar nothing but It is some difference.<br/> A trait of sewing construction is divided and analyzed comparison by one layer Dapho and two layers Dapho that special Quality is classified. Sewing process Is each other similar but one layer Dapho matches backstitch and running stitch properly, it Is supplementing well shortcoming of one layer clothes. The other side. two layers Dapho does distinguish continuously widely running stitch after separately complete the lining and outer cloth. The common of construction is Kalklt of double collar to outside and Mokpanklt to Inside. Also, Form of gusset Is linked with side that was folded to inside from part that sense of beauty( ~ ~) of delicate three, five, seven decorated top stitches by ratio made evoke admiration to this on front " back connection part from inside.<br/> Difference on construction can say first clothing pad of shoulder that only exist to one layer Dapho to supplement weak part of back and shoulder. Also, clothing pad of gusset only existed to two layers Dapho, this is conjectured that might be in purpose to fix weight of dress. Also collar, one layer Dapho is piled UP to three folds tuck of bodice to part linked with collar, that shape of collar is to stabilize, sewed part do not expose simultaneously.<br/> <br/>