스텔라 맥카트니 니트 디자인에 표현된 친환경 디자인 특성

이연희,박선희,Lee, Younhee,Park, Sun-Hee 한국의상디자인학회 2022 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.24 No.3

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

핀란드의 삶의 질 수준과 행복의 의미

이연희(Younhee Lee) 한국여가문화학회 2023 여가학연구 Vol.21 No.2

본 연구는 6년 연속 ‘행복지수’ 1위인 핀란드 지역에 대한 현장 조사와 생애주기별, 생활세계 현장의 역동성에서 검토될 질적 내용들을 알아보고자 하였다. 본 연구를 위해 전문가와 일반 핀란드인들을 중심으로 심층 인터뷰를 실시하였다. 이번 연구를 통한 연구 결과는 다음과 같이 요약될 수 있다. 핀란드 현지에서 ‘행복’에 대해서는 삶의 만족, 신뢰, 행복, 평온, 믿음으로 추출하였고, 핀란드의 문화에 대해서는 자연 문화, 소박한 삶의 문화, 평등주의, 중립주의로 추출되었다. 핀란드인들은 다양하고 소박한 여가문화를 통해 돈이나 명예가 아닌 소소한 행복과 만족감을 통해 살아가는 것이 행복지수 1위의 비결이라는 것을 알 수 있었다. This study aimed to find out the qualitative contents to be reviewed in the field survey of Finland, the No. 1 “happiness” index for five consecutive years, and the dynamics of life cycle and life world sites. For this study, in-depth interviews were conducted with experts and ordinary Finns, and focus group interviews (FGI) were also conducted at the same time.The research results through this study can be summarized as follows.In Finland, “happiness” was extracted with life satisfaction, trust, happiness, peace, and faith, and Finnish culture was extracted with natural culture, simple life culture, egalitarianism, and neutrality.Finns found that living through small happiness and satisfaction, not money or honor, was the secret to the No. 1 happiness index through various and simple leisure cultures.

사카이(Sacai) 니트 디자인에 나타난 혼합 현상

이연희 ( Younhee Lee ),김혜연 ( Hea Yeon Kim ) 복식문화학회 2021 服飾文化硏究 Vol.29 No.6

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai’s knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study’s data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai’s distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

현대 남성 니트웨어에 나타난 니트 소재 활용 현황

이연희(Younhee Lee),박정인(Jungin Park),이한철(Hanchul Lee),장정임(Jung-im Jang) 한국의상디자인학회 2018 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.20 No.3

타셈 싱(Tarsem Singh) 영화 '백설공주' 의상에 표현된 매직리얼리즘 특성

양수현,이연희,Yang, Soo Hyun,Lee, Younhee 복식문화학회 2017 服飾文化硏究 Vol.25 No.3

The aims of this research were to characterize magic realism by analyzing existing magical reality literature reviews and research and to identify material that may inspire ideas for stage and film costume design by analyzing and drawing design characteristics and magic realism of costumes from Director Tarsem Singh's movie, 'Mirror, Mirror'. For the methodology, characteristics of magic realism in literature and, movies were analyzed, with a theoretical consideration of these materials on magical realism. Data on costume design and magical realism characteristics for use in the analysis were collected from the main characters of 'Mirror, Mirror' as well as from other characters. The result of this analysis was the emergence of five common characteristics of the magic realism Historicity, the most remarkable characteristic seen in Tarsem Singh films, was expressed through the symbolic meaning and decorative patterns shown by the traditional-style costumes, colors. Symbolization was expressed through the symbolic meaning, decorative elements, and traditional clothes, as shown by the colors and forms of the costumes. Fantasy was expressed through the colors, decorative elements, forms of traditional clothing, and forms with symbolic meaning. Reproducibility was expressed through the method of decorative element, symbolic meaning, traditional forms and de-structural clothes. Ambiguity, which can be associated with the combined characteristics of historicity and fantasy, was expressed in the clothes worn in the scenes that confounded time and space within the film.

중국 소수민족 좡족(壯族) 복식의 특성을 활용한 패션디자인

왕이팡,이진경,이연희,Wang, Yifang,Lee, Jinkyung,Lee, Younhee 복식문화학회 2017 服飾文化硏究 Vol.25 No.5

This study analyzes the characteristics of clothes worn by the Zhuang in order to produce new fashion designs, and to propose diverse new directions in fashion design. Research was conducted using a bibliographic survey on the cultural background, characteristics, and relevant techniques of the Zhuang costume and that of minority races in China. This study deploys four styles of design for women's wear. With the inspiration of the traditional Zhuang costume, black and blue were the colors mainly used for the Zhuang people and the material was mostly denim. Denim blends in well for the contemporary facilitation of the Zhuang costume, which is known for knitting technique, fur and hemp fabric as patchwork, and embroidery works. It is appropriate to express the joyful and happy mind of Zhuang people with extraordinary colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and various decorations. Images of nature, such as the sun, mountains, rivers, water, fish etc., expressed the nature worship of the Zhuang in contemporary design, representing the simple life and peaceful mind. This research develops a new fashion design and displays the possibility for diverse design development through new insight in contemporary fashion design.

북유럽 전통 니트 문양을 활용한 트랜스포머블(Transformable) 니트 디자인 연구

이예진(Yejin Lee),이연희(Younhee Lee) 한국복식학회 2016 服飾 Vol.66 No.1

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

라틴 아메리칸 댄스 스포츠 의상의 디자인 특성

양야리,이진경,이연희,Yang, Yali,Lee, Jinkyoung,Lee, Younhee 복식문화학회 2018 服飾文化硏究 Vol.26 No.4

The purpose of this study is to collect and analyze costumes presented in international dance sports competitions, and summarize the features of Latin American dance costumes' design. As for research methods, standards of Latin American dance costume design were analyzed via a literature review on dance sports. The scope of the study extended for six years from 2010 to 2015 to include the, top three UK Latin American dance competitions. The results are as follows. First, the silhouette analysis determined that the X silhouette to the lead with, -145 costumes (78%), followed by the H silhouette at 25 (13%), and other at 16 (9%). Amongst those there were 174 one-piece dresses (94%). Furthermore, the analysis on colors of Latin American dance sports costumes revealed that, amongst the 186 costumes, 115 were without color (62%), Bl(black) is the most frequent with 37%, then Wh(white) with 21% and Gr(gray) with 4%. Costumes with colors, based on the six basic colors in the Munsell color system, are comprised most often of red with 12%, the followed by Y(yellow) at 10%, B(blue) at 8%, YR(yellow-red) at 4%, P(purple) at 2%, and G(green) at 2%. Thirdly, the cloth materials of Latin American dance costumes are recognized through image inspection. Among visually recognizable materials, beading materials are the most common with 104 costumes (60%). Shiny materials like mesh, chiffon, organza, lace and burn-out are in 36 costumes in total (19%). Other cloth materials included Luster materials and; non-sheen materials, which were in 46 costumes (25%).

알렉산더 맥퀸 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 비판적 리얼리즘 특성

이유민 ( Youmin Lee ),이연희 ( Younhee Lee ) 복식문화학회 2021 服飾文化硏究 Vol.29 No.2

In this study, the artistic background and formative nature of representative 19th century realist artists Gustave Courbet and Honoré Daumier were analyzed and applied in a fashion context. By displaying representational desires (necessary adhesions of man and society) in their work, they became characteristic matrixes of critical realism and to perceive critical realism. The purpose of the study was to apply the characteristics of critical realism to the contemporary fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Research was conducted to analyze the characteristics that appear in the field of fashion and to review methods of expression and internal aesthetics displayed through various aspects of fashion design. Characteristics of critical realism were analyzed by researching the formativeness and periodical background of the paintings of Courbet and Daumier. Based on these characteristics, analysis was conducted to identify critical realism in the fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Data and scope included fashion information sites, internet photo data, and video material. Critical realist characteristics were categorized into five types as follows: ‘The proper borrowing of extremely realistic subjects signifies’, ‘satirical reconstruction and narrative composition’, ‘antipathetic distortions and abject representations’, ‘critical reproductions based on technology’, and ‘the maximization of ambivalent sexuality’. It was concluded that the characteristics of critical realism (recognized by the common formation of Courbet and Daumier) also appeared in Alexander McQueen's fashion collection but were inherited in a form that transcended pictorial expression due to the overall difference in use of visual arts.

크리스마스 시즌 윈도우 디스플레이에 나타난 의외성

김보라,윤정아,이연희,Kim, Bora,Yoon, Jung-A,Lee, Younhee 복식문화학회 2017 服飾文化硏究 Vol.25 No.5

The purpose of this study was to propose various directions for effectively proposing window displays that satisfy changing consumer needs by investigating and analyzing the characteristics of unexpected expressions used in recent Christmas windows. Research was conducted by investigating unexpectedness in window displays through literature reviews and previous studies. To observe unexpectedness in Christmas windows, website-based case images of window displays from the six years between 2010 and 2015 were collected from the department stores of Bergdorf Goodman, Printemps, Selfridges, and Isetan. Unexpected expressions in department-store Christmas window displays could be categorized into four expressive methods of hybrid expressions, figurative expressions, amusing expressions, and exaggerative expressions. The results were as follows: First, hybrid expressions are interpreted by consumers as having new or diverse meanings that change the original external forms of subjects or objects. Second, Christmas colors are used in the window backgrounds' figurative expressions, but these windows do not use excessive expressions; furthermore, these windows personify people as animals and anthropomorphize animals as people, using subjects to depict other subjects to show unfamiliar images. Third, amusing expressions are used to decorate windows with unique and novel ideas that provide stimulation and amusement for customers and capture their attention through the composition of windows that entail childish props and elements that create funny. Fourth, exaggerative expressions deliberately stretch and expand subjects or objects in windows to elicit customers' curiosity and interest through emphasis.