직접측정과 3차원 측정에 따른 인체치수 및 의복 착장 비교분석

( Cynthia L. Istook ),임호선 ( Ho Sun Lim ),천종숙 ( Jong Suk Chun ) 복식문화학회 2011 服飾文化硏究 Vol.19 No.6

This study purposed to analyze differences in body measurement between the 2D direct body measuring method and the 3D body scan measuring method and to perform the appearance evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation of the fit of pants to which body measurements obtained by each measuring method were applied. Body measuring was conducted in 10 women in their 20s-30s using 2D direct body measuring and 3D automatic measuring with Hamamatsu body scanner. Among the 10 women, 3 participated in experimental garment wearing. Experimental pants were made using their 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements, and wearing tests were performed through expert evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation. The results of the experiment were as follows. According to the results of comparative analysis on differences between 2D direct body measurements and 3D scan measurements, 3D automatic measurements were significantly larger in bust circumference, ankle circumference, armscye circumference, shoulder length, scye depth, and arm length. As circumferences measured with the 3D body scanner were somewhat larger than directly measured ones, it is suggested to adjust ease when using existing pattern making methods. We prepared experimental garments by the same pattern making method through applying body measurements obtained with the two measuring methods, and assessed the fit of the garment comparatively through expert evaluation and 3D scan cross-sectional evaluation. According to the results, 2D-pants using 2D direct body measurements was slightly tighter than 3D-pants using 3D measurements in waist circumference, hip circumference, and abdominal circumference. In the results of comparing appearance in terms of the fit of the experimental garment in each subject, significant difference was observed in most of the compared items. This result suggests that 3D automatic body measuring data may show different accuracy according to body shape and therefore it is necessary to examine difference between 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements according to body shape.

Transactions : Comparison of Virtual Avatars by Using Automatic and Manual Method

( Cynthia L. Istook ),( Ho Sun Lim ) 한국의류학회 2010 한국의류학회지 Vol.34 No.12

New technology that includes 3D body scanning, digital virtual human, and digital virtual garments has had a significant impact on the current apparel industry. Virtual simulation technology enables the visualization of a 3D virtual garment on a virtual avatar so that consumers can try on garments with their virtual avatars before purchasing. However, the manual virtual avatar provided for online apparel shopping currently has revealed limitations on the different body sizes and shapes of customers. This study analyzes the process of designing the automatic virtual avatar and the manual virtual avatar using OptiTex software; in addition, the study compares the practicality of the automatic virtual avatar with that of the manual virtual avatar. Data was examined by evaluating how much each virtual avatar is similar to the real body and how well it matched the needs of the current apparel industry. In the study, Avatar 1 was automatically created from three-dimensional body scan data and Avatar 2 was manually created from body measurements. The virtual avatar images laid over a real body image and the results were evaluated by comparing the simulated sizes of virtual avatars with those of a real body. Consequently, Avatar 1 was evaluated as more similar to the real body than Avatar 2 in all five body shapes. This study illustrates that an automatic virtual avatar might solve the fit problem that is the most common reason for a high return rate for online shopping. The results show that future virtual simulation technology needs to be improved for the practicality of the virtual avatars.

대량맞춤생산을 위한 고객맞춤형 Made-to-Measure(MTM) CAD 시스템에 관한 연구

임호선,( Cynthia L Istook ) 한국의류학회 2011 한국의류학회 학술대회논문집 Vol.2011 No.-

Typology of Dress in Contemporary Fashion

( Eunhyuk Yim ),( Cynthia Istook ) 한국의류학회 2017 한국의류학회지 Vol.41 No.1

This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their implications according to the extent of revealing or concealing corporeality based on body perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and methodological framework, this study combines a literature survey and case analysis to analyze and classify the forms of women`s dress since the 1920s when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transformation, and formlessness. Body-consciousness that is achieved through tailoring, bias cutting, and stretchy fabric displays corporeality focusing on the structure and function of the body as an internalized corset. Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy. The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body. Transformations of the body refer to as follows. First, the deconstruction and restructuring of the body that deconstruct the stereotypes in garment construction. Second, the abstraction of the body that emphasizes the geometrical and architectural shapes. Third, transformable designs which pursue the expansion and multiplicity of function. Formlessness in dress denies the perception of three-dimensionality of the body through the plan-arization of the body.

Design Aesthetics of Ralph Rucci

( Eunhyuk Yim ),( Cynthia Istook ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2017 패션 비즈니스 Vol.21 No.3

Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci`s designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci`s designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and Gres into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer`s movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original `suspension` techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.

A Comparative Study on Virtual Try-on Systems using Body Measurement Input

( Ho Sun Lim ),( Cynthia Istook ) 복식문화학회 2010 Fashion, industry and education Vol.13 No.2

Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from five subjects of top five body shapes, respectively, using [TC]2 body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, reseach needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.

보문 : 지수치를 활용한 한국과 미국 성인의 3차원 인체치수 비교

이경화 ( Kyong Hwa Yi ),Cynthia Istook 韓國衣類學會 2008 한국의류학회지 Vol.32 No.6

Transactions : Various Men`s Body Shapes and Drops for Developing Menswear Sizing Systems in the United States

( Su Jeong Hwang Shin ),( Cynthia L Istook ),( Jin Hee Lee ) 한국의류학회 2011 한국의류학회지 Vol.35 No.12

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men`s body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men`s data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men`s body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men`s body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

A Study on the Comfort and the Patternmaking Method of Leggings Pants

( Kyong Hwa Yi ),( Cynthia L Istook ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2013 패션 비즈니스 Vol.17 No.3

Fabric industry has been developing enough to introduce diverse stretch materials to apparel market, so that tightly fitting leggings designs are taking over not only sports wear but also women`s clothing. This study is aimed at developing prototype designs for leggings pants using stretch material that are appropriate for the lower part of body being functional, comfortable, and beautiful. As well, the study is intended to be of a reference in manufacturing such products. Some of the most popular leggings on the market in their kinds and materials were primarily selected to be tested in two ways: wear test and appearance test. Again, the test pants went through the same kinds of two tests, which turned out two designs. Finally, the test pants were treated to yield the most desirable prototype design. In conducting all these tests, some major defects causing discomfort and shortcomings of the leggings pants on the market were exposed and through the wear tests, the drawbacks were seen to be complemented in a big way. Thus, it is hopefully expected that this study will serve as a good reference for developing stretch pants.

A Comparative Study on Virtual Try-on Systems using Body Measurement Input

Lim, Ho-Sun,Istook, Cynthia The Costume Culture Association 2010 Fashion, industry and education Vol.13 No.2

Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from jive subjects of top jive body shapes, respectively, using $[TC]^2$ body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, research needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.