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연구논문 : 3차원 인체형상과 3차원 동작분석에 의한 방화복 소매패턴 개발
한설아 ( Sul Ah Han ),남윤자 ( Yun Ja Nam ),윤혜준 ( Hye Jun Yoon ),이상희 ( Sang Hee Lee ),김현주 ( Hyun Joo Kim ) 한국의류산업학회 2012 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.14 No.1
This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder`s flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist`s ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the handful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers` range of motion.
보문 : 중국 경극 가면을 응용한 패치워크 기법의 의상 디자인 연구
이설매 ( Xue Mei Li ),이상희 ( Sang Hee Lee ),한설아 ( Sul Ah Han ) 한국의류학회 2012 한국의류학회지 Vol.36 No.2
Historically, garments have been spontaneously made with human instinct in order to warm and decorate the body using textiles that have been made and used by various peoples in different cultures. Contemporary garments have been used as a means of warming as well as express individual personality and a desire to pursue beauty. They have a unique formativeness and a symbolic nature according to cultural phenomena that reflect a cultural outcome that expresses contemporary thinking and ideology as well as their aesthetic consciousness. This study globally promotes Chinese opera mask culture and proposes the possibility of creative thinking through the introduction of Chinese opera mask elements into contemporary fashion, expressing them as patchworks. In order to endow artistic value (required in contemporary fashion) this study creates works by analyzing and applying a formative sense seen in patchwork techniques and the characteristics of Chinese opera masks; in addition, it sought the possibility of new expressions in garment designs. The results obtained from the research involve the following. First, the introduction of the traditional patchwork technique to contemporary garments may be a dynamic theme of garment expression and exceed stereotypical ideas that enable the creation of designs attuned to the globalization era. Second, it was possible to pursue independent formativeness which is in harmony with a modern sense through the restructuring of the harmony of colors and practical characteristics found in patchworks. Third, it was possible to demonstrate their artistry and unique effect in the expression of contemporary garments by the expression of the analyzed results of characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks with a patchwork technique in creating works. Results show that it is necessary to conduct research into a patchwork technique that applies diverse materials as a new method to develop contemporary garment design also as a creative design. In addition, if the analyzed results of the characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks can be expressed with a patchwork technique, they may be able to exhibit a genuine effect along with the artistry of expression in contemporary garments; thereby, relevant follow-up research should be further continued.
마샤 마 패션에 나타난 소주 전통정원 건축미학 특성 확장에 대한 논의 - 마샤 마(Masha Ma) 2014 S/S ~ 2016 S/S 컬렉션을 중심으로 -
이애진 ( Li Ai-zhen ),김현주 ( Kim Hyun-joo ),한설아 ( Han Sul-a ) 커뮤니케이션디자인학회 2017 커뮤니케이션 디자인학연구 Vol.59 No.-
본 연구는 중국 소주 전통 정원 건축의 특성을 재해석 하여 현대적으로 표현한 마샤 마의 컬렉션을 면밀히 분석하여 그녀의 디자인과 소주 전통 정원의 조형적, 미학적 상관관계를 고찰하는 것을 목표로 하였다. 이에 본 연구는 국내·외 선행연구를 중심으로 소주 전통정원의 역사적 배경과 건축적 패션, 그리고 해체주의에 관련한 이론 고찰 및 소주 전통정원의 조형적, 미학적 특징 분석에서 출발하여, 마샤 마의 2014S/S ~ 2016 S/S 마샤 마의 파리 컬렉션 작품서 나타난 소주 전통정원의 재해석 과정과 패션의 조형적 특성을 비교 분석하였다. 이를 통하여 마샤 마의 패션 디자인은 전통 정원 문화의 영향과 중국 음양오행설 문화를 용합하여 새로운 방향성의 건축적 패션 디자인을 창조하였다는 것을 알 수 있었고, 그 창조의 방형성은 다음의 세 가지 흐름 안에서 압축 할 수 있었다. 첫째, 전통 정원 문화의 영향과 중국 음양오행설문화를 용합한 음양(陰陽)적 색채 사용과 배색 특성을 보였다, 둘째, 중국 전통 건축의 기학 미의식(美意識)을 재해석 하여, 이를 패션디자인 조형 방식의 변화 및 착장 순서의 변화, 문양 등을 통해 그 특성을 표현하였다. 셋째, 소주 전통정원의 치경(置景)적 특성은 문양, 시스루 소재를 통한 레이어링 기법 등으로 재해석 한 것을 알 수 있었다. 이렇게 마샤 마 디자인에 있어서 전통 건축 조형요소와 미학에 대한 이해는 새로운 방식으로 현대 패션디자인을 창조하고 발전시키는 동력이었다고 할 수 있다. 이러한 시도를 통해 그녀가 중국 전통 건축과 문화에 현대 패션의 미의식을 접목 시켜 새로운 중국식패션 디자인 흐름의 단초를 마련했다고 볼 수 있겠다. 앞으로도 중국 전통문화뿐만 아니라 세계 전통문화를 활용한 현대 패션 디자인의 조형 특성에 관한 연구가 지속적이고 심층적으로 진행되어, 패션 디자인에 다각도로 이용될 수 있기를 기대한다. The Chinese modern costume designer Masha Ma`s collection has been analyzed in this study, based on reinterpreting the characteristics of architecture from traditional Chinese gardens of Suzhou. The purpose of this study is that analyze the relationship between her design and the modeling and aesthetics of Suzhou traditional architecture. In this study, the starting point is the historical background and architectural fashion of traditional garden of Suzhou, and researches the Masha Ma`s 2014 S/S~2016 S/S Paris`s collection that had been presented process of reinterpretation and fashion`s modeling features at the Suzhou garden. In order to know the impact of traditional garden culture and Yin - Yang theory for Masha Ma`s fashion design, a new way of architectural fashion design is conducted, the creative direction mainly includes the following three points. First, by the impact of traditional culture, the Yin-Yang mainly use opposite colors matching Yin and Yang includes brown, blue, white, black, etc. Second, the aesthetic consciousness of Chinese architectural geometry is reinterpreted. Geometric mainly utilize modelling of asymmetry which differs from other traditional architecture of Suzhou gardens. Third, the Suzhou garden scenery features through the perspective of fabrics and other forms is reinterpreted. The traditional architectural modeling elements and aesthetic understanding of Masha Ma`s fashion design can be said that the new directions of the creative development of modern fashion design. It unfastens a new way of Chinese-style fashion design which fuse the architecture and culture of traditional China and fashion beauty consciousness. In addition to the traditional Chinese culture, for the world`s traditional culture, it also deeper research the levels and aspects of modern modeling fashion design`s features.