논문편 : 농가생활 향상을 위한 가족계획 연찬회 보고

이양후,최은숙 ( Yang Hoo Lee,Eun Suk Choi ) 대한가정학회 1975 Family and Environment Research Vol.13 No.3

한국 양잠부녀자의 의복변천에 관한 연구

이양후 한국잠사학회 1970 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.11 No.-

양잠농촌 부녀자들의 의복 꼭 변천과정을 구명하기 위하여 전국에서 임의로 선택한 양잠농촌부녀자 총 183 명을 대상으로 1961년∼1969년까지 3년간에 걸쳐 신조한 의복(양복 한복)을 조사하여 연령별 연도별로 비교 검토한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 양복신조율은 한복에 비하여 2배정도 높았으며 젊은 층일수록 이 비율이 높았다. 연도별로는 점차양복이 한복에 비해증가되는 경향을 보였다. 2. 의복의 유형은 양복에서는 브라우스, 원피스, 스카트가 대부분이었고 한복에서는 저고리와 치마가 거의 전부를 차지하였다. 년도별로는 점차 원피스가 많아지는 경향을 보였다. 3. 의복 제조방법은 자가 제조나 기성복은 적었고 대부분이 맞춤이었다. 이를 연령별로 보면 자가제조와 기성복은 연장자일수록 젊은 층보다 더 많았다. 4. 착용 계절별로는 양복은 하절에 한복은 동절에 많았고 복종별로는 하절에는 원피스 춘추에는 투프스가 많았으며 치마는 계절에 따른 변화가 거의 없었다, 5. 의복종류별로 보면 양복은 폴리에스텔과 이의 혼방물이 가장 많았고 견직물이 가장 적었으며 한복은 이와 반대로 견직물과 견사혼방물이 많았다. 년도에 따라서는 합성섬유가 점차 증가되는 경향을 보였다. 6. 기호색은 양복에서는 백색, 청색, 갈색, 흑색의 순이었고, 한복은 백색, 청색, 녹색, 회색의 순이었다. 연령별로는 젊은 층일수록 색의 선택이 다양하였고, 연도별로는 뚜렷한 차이를 인정할 수 없었다. This study was conducted in order to find out the tendency of sericultural woman's clothes. This data was based on random samples of 183 sericultural women throughout the country, and was derived from the investigation of c1othes (western and Korean-style) which had been made during the years, 1967∼1969. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Western-style clothes were about twice as popular as Korean-style, and more evident among the young women. It was also shown that the ratioes mentioned above were gradually decreased year by year. 2. Most popular among the western-style clothes were blouses, one-piece dresses and skirts. Jogori(coat) and Cheema(long skirt) were favorites among the Korean-styled clothes. One-piece dresses showed increasing tendency of use year by year. 3. Costume-made clothes were much more in number than the home-made and the ready-made types. The home-made and the ready-made clothes increased as the ages increased. 4. Western-styled clothes were popular in summer seasons while Korean-styled clothes were popular in the winter time. Among the western-styled clothes one-pieces dresses and two-piece suits were most popular during the spring through autumn. In Korean clothes the Cheema was popular all year round. 5. Western-style clothes were mostly made of polyester and their blends. Silk was the least used fabric. On the contrary, most of Korean-style clothes were made of silk and their blends. The synthetic fibers showed increasing use year by year. 6. Favorite colors were in order; white, blue, brown, and black in western-style clothes; white, blue, green, and gray were in Korean style clothes. Young women teaded to have a wider preference of colors than the older women.

새마을 成功部落의 農家生活 診斷에 관한 硏究

李良厚,朴陽子,崔銀淑 農科大學 農業開發硏究所 1980 農業開發硏究 報告書 Vol.1 No.1

家庭洗劑에 依한 合成纖維變色의 硏究

李良厚 서울대학교 1966 서울대학교 論文集 Vol.17 No.-

This treatise is to survey the whiteness retention effect of nylon and dacron fabrics by using various Korean made detergents purchasable in the market. Every result was checked after each laundering during thirty times repeating the work, and after every ten hours ultra violet treatment for sixty hours. The obtained results are as followings; 1) There was lower change in the whiteness retention of all-dacron fabrics throughout the repeated launderings (30 times), but all-nylon fabrics showed a higher per cent whiteness retention after laundering than did the all-dacron fabrics. 2) The synthetic detergents laundering was more effective on the whiteness retention than heavy-duty soap usage on these fabrics. 3) There was no much difference in the effectiveness of the individual products in each group of detergents n whiteness retention. In some cases, products intended for light-duty (Korean made) laundering were more effective in whiteness retention than heavy-duty detergents. 4) Additives such as brightness incorporated into the soap had apparently not effect on the whiteness retention in nylon fabrics. 5) The water alone without detergent laundering were less effective on the whiteness than with any detergent laundering retention of either type of fabrics throughout the launderings. 6) The nylon fabric was more yellowed after hours ultra-violet treated than the one non-treated and the yellowed nylon fabrics showed little concern with the amount of ultra-violet treating or laundering for whiteness retention.

數種 芯布의 特性에 關한 硏究 : 洗濯에 依한 收縮, 두께, 防皺度, 剛軟度의 變化 The Effect of the Washing on the Shrinkage, Thickness, Creaseresistance and Stiffness of the Padding Cloths

李良厚 서울대학교 1975 서울대학교 論文集 Vol.25 No.-

This study was conducted to find out the changes in shrinkage, thickness, crease resistance, and stiffness of some padding cloths such as cotton, hair, tetoron and nonwoven fabrics affected by the repeated washing. These charactersistics were investigated with the classified warp and filling. At the same time, the padding cloths used by dress makers were also investigated. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Shrinking ratio of cotton fabrics, in general, were highest while those of tetoron were lowest. Shrinking ratio of the padding cloths showed the increasing tendencies with the repeated washing, but the rates were remarkably differed each other. It was also found that the shrinking ratio of the padding cloths except tetoron were hither in the warp than in the filling. 2. Thickness of hair fabrics, in general, were thickest while those of the thick nonwoven fabrics were thinnest. Thickness of cotton and nonwoven fabrics showed the increasing tendencies with the repeated washing, while those of tetoron showed the decreasing tendencies. Thi­ckness of hair, however, showed variable tendencies with the repeated washing. 3. Crease resistance, in general, were highest in hair fabrics and gradually lowered in the order of nonwoven, cotton, and tetoron fabrics. According to the repeated washing the crease resistance of the padding cloths were gradually decreased till the 10 times of washing, but after then they were slightly increased. It was also found that the crease resistance of the padding cloths except nonwoven fabrics were higher in the filling than in the warp. 4. Stiffness of the thick nonwoven fabrics, in general, were highest while those of cotton were lowest. Stiffness of the padding cloths showed decreasing tendencies with the repeated washing, but the decreasing rates were differed more or less each other. It was also found that they were higher in the warp than in the filling only except that those of hair fabrics were two times in the filling than in the warp. 5. Dress markers favorably used cotton fabrics for padding cloths about four times more than the others (hair, tetoron, and nonwoven fabrics). The padding cloths being selected, the dress markers considered the dimension stability and sewing easiness of dress as the principal objects. 6. The proper applications of various padding cloths were discussed.

成人 女性들의 衣服行動과 關聯要因 硏究

李良厚 서울大學校 農科大學 1986 서울대농학연구지 Vol.11 No.1

The pruposes of this study were to investigate clothing buying patterns of Korean women, to analyze the differences in clothing selecting behavior among personal backgrounds such as age, educational level, occupation, socioeconomic status and marital status and to suggest educational information in clothing more effectively for the future. The data obtained from 216 females by questionnaires and the sample was composed of females having educational level of over highschool graduated. Frequency distribution, X²-test and correlation coefficients were calculated for statistical analysis. The findings of this study were summarized as follows: 1. Most of females purchased their clothings on purpose. This tendency was higher in more educated groups. 2. They purchased their clothings mainly at department stores. This tendency was much higher in upper class people than in lower class people. 3. Many females selected their clothings by themselves. 4. Samples felt that salespersons didn't have much knowledge about the merchandise. 5. Fashion magazines and store displays affected purchasers deeply in purchasing of clothing. 6. Factors for selecting clothes were in the order of style, fitness and price. The younger group put importance for fittness and style, while older group for price. 7. The main reasons of no using clothes were boresome and out of fashion. The married women could not wear the clothes for longer periods because of unfittness. 8. About half of the females gave these discarding clothes to their relatives and friends. However, many females kept idle these discarding clothes on stock. 9. Factors affecting selection of clothes were in the order of individuality consciousness, utility, modesity, economic value and fashion interest. 10. There are positive correlations between individuality consciousness and socioeconomic status, between fashion interest and socioeconomic status, and between utility and age.

靑少年의 衣服行動과 家庭의 價値 指向成과의 關係

金善花,李良厚 서울大學校 農科大學 1986 서울대농학연구지 Vol.11 No.1

The purposes of this study were to investigate the relationship between the clothing behavior and the family value among different sex, age and socioeconomic status and to explore the differences of sex, age and socioeconomic status about the clothing behavior. The questionnaire was designed to collect data for clothing behaviors, family values and the socioeconomic status. The data were obtained from 554 females and males, middle school, high school and college students, upper, middle and lower classes. The findings of this study were s follows: 1. (1) A significant positive relationship was found between conventional family values and dressing for self in both sexes, and between conventional family values and dressing for others in male students. (2) In case of early adolescence, there was significant negative relationship between the materialistic family values and dressing for self. In case of puberty there was significant negative relationship between conventional family values and dressing for others. (3) There was significant positive relationship between dressing for self and dressing for others. 2. (1) Females were more positive on attitudes toward dressing for self and others than were males. (2) There older age group were more positive on attitudes toward dressing for others, and there were significant differences between puberty and early adolescence, puberty and late adolescence. (3) Upper class was more positive on attitudes toward dressing for self than other classes. The higher were the socioeconomic status, the more were positive on attitudes toward dressing for others. 3. Significant interaction between sex and age was found about clothing attitudes.

職業女性의 夏季通勤服 嗜好性에 關하여

李良厚,金成鎭 서울대학교 1967 서울대학교 論文集 Vol.18 No.-

The purpose of this study was to investigate the women's preference in the summer wears for the different professional women. The types, colours and the colour pattern of the summer wears were observed for 2172 school teachers, 1681 business women, 2373 U.S. Army employees and 2037 of foreign women in Seoul during the summer of 1965. Some trends of different preference were found in respects of type, colours and colour patterns of the summer wears between Korean and foreign women, but no marked difference was found among Koreans. The most prefered colour were white for Korean and green for foreigners. Separated clothes were weared more by Koreans than foreigners. So far, the school teachers seemed to be the most conservative, the business women were intermediate, and the U.S. Army employees seemed to have much similar taste to the foreigners.

女子大學生의 被服着用 樣相에 關한 硏究

李良厚 서울대학교 1973 서울대학교 論文集 Vol.18 No.-

A study of college women's clothing preferences was made in order to make future education in clothing more effectively. The data were based on responses from 687 college women. They were asked about the number of clothes they owned, how they acquired them, and about their own sewing methods and abilities. Questions were asked also on style and color preferences, and on the frequency of wearing and the reasons for discarding. The data were analyzed in respect to location of school, and the seniority and major fields of the respondents. College women had on an average of 30.8 pieces of clothing of which blouses, skirts and one-piece dresses predominate. There was some tendency for college women in Seoul to have more clothes than those in other urban areas. College women who major in art had a few more clothes than women in other fields. Two thirds of all the new clothes purchased were custom made; one fourth were ready made. More than 80% of the ready made clothes were knittings. Comparatively there were few home made clothes. These seemed to be mostly made by college women majoring in Home Economics. They have made on an average of 8.1 new pieces for the last two years and most of these were for warm weather. Winter clothes were seldom made. College women chose their clothes mainly to suit their own individuality in special consideration of fashion, and this tendency was greater among those in Seoul, especially those majoring in art. The materials were mostly purchased from the general market and choice of design was made by fashion books with some modifications. Such modifications were made more often by college women majoring in Home Economics. Colors and designs were the most important factors in the selection of ready made clothes. There were some complaints about the quality of the materials and the sewing of ready made clothes. In selecting styles, the college women preferred active and sporty clothes to dressy ones, and they preferred to have more clothes at lower prices rather than a few expensive ones. The ministyle were still predominant. More than 70% of the clothes were in this style. This tendency was greater in Seoul than in other urban areas. Brown was the most preferred color, followed by blue, white, green and black in that order. The difference in the number of clothes between the most and the least preferred color was greater in the senior class than in the junior. One third of the college women surveyed were able to make their own clothes, which 20.6% reported that they had never made their own clothes. About 57.4% of college women majoring in Home Economics made all their own clothes. This is a much higher percentage than that of college women majoring in other fields. Nearly all the respondents and especially the seniors said they wanted to have an ability to make their own clothes. An individual outfit was worn on an average of 3.1 days per week; 2.7 days for Seoul, and 3.5 days for the other cities. No differentiation was made between clothes for school and street dress. The main reasons (80%) for discarding clothes were because they were weary of them and out of fashion. A few were discarded because they were worn out, and a negligible number because they were outgrown. Discarded clothes were mostly given to younger sisters. A few were remade by college women majoring in Home Economics.

不織布 接着芯地에 關한 硏究 : Effects of the Adhesive Conditions and Laundry on the Shrinkage, Thickness, Crease-resistance and Stiffness of the Adhesive Nonwov 接着條件 및 洗濯에 의한 收縮,두께,防皺度,剛軟度의 變化

李良厚 서울大學校 農科大學 1979 서울대농학연구지 Vol.4 No.2

This study was conducted to find out the appropriate adhesive conditiions when the adhesive nonwoven fabrics for interfacing cloths were used for the padding cloths of blouse and dress made of broad cloth cotton, corduroy, tetoron and polyester. And it was also studied that the shrinkage, thickness, crease-resistance, and stiffness of the adhesive nonwoven fabrics were changed as affecter by the repeated laundering. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. The most suitable adhesive conditions of the adhesive nonwoven fabrics were 160℃ in ironing temperature and 10 seconds in ironing time. In this case the interfacing did not seperate from the outer fabrics after 10th laundry. 2. The shrinking rations of broad cloth and corduroy were higher than those of tetoron and polyester. It was also found that the shrinking ratios of the test cloths were higher in the warp than in the weft in all materials. On the other hand, the shrinking ratios of tetoron and polyester were very small in both directions of texture after 20th laundry. All the test fabrics shrank until 5th laundry, but they were little change after that. 3. The thickness of broad cloth and corduroy was increased by 1st laundry, but it was decreased until 10th laundry. On the other hand, the thickness of tetoron and polyester was decreased until 10th laundry. 4. The crease-resistance was highest in polyester and gradually lowered in the order of tetoron, corduroy and broadcloth. In the directions of texture, the crease-resistance was higher in the warp than in the weft in dase of original cloths, but it was reverse after 20th laundry. The crease-resistance of the test cloths, in general, was decreased until 5th or 7th laundry, but it was increased slightly after that. 5. The stiffness was highest in corduroy and gradually lowered in the order of broadcloth, tetoron and polyester. The stiffness of the these cloths showed the deceasing tendency with the repeated laundering, and it was decreased by about 30% as compared with original cloths after 20th laundry. Inthe directions of texture, the this tendency was higher in the warp. 6. Therefore, the adhesive nonwoven fabrics is estimated to be possible for the interfacting of blouse and dress.