20세기 한국의 신여성과 모던 걸 패션의 비교 연구

이상례(Sang Rae Lee),소황옥(Hwang Oak Soh) 한국복식학회 2019 服飾 Vol.69 No.5

영화속에 나타난 미래 의상

이상례(Sang Rye Lee) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.48 No.-

In future, what kind of costume do we wear? We can guess it is in advance through movie. Movie is a omnipresent medium and a mode of expression that reflect a distintive feature of the times like fashion. In many case, costume design which belongs to a special era is based on the historic costumes but costume design for future movie depends on the creativity of costume designer and director. Therefore, it is interesting to research how costume designer get his/her design concept for future costume in movie, how he/she express his/her design concept through his/her costume and can we convince the design comes true practically in future. In this study, I analyze the costume design of masterpieces among SF Film: <Metropolis/1926>, <2001: A Space Odyssey/1968>, <Star Wars/1977>, <Blade Runner/1982>, <The 5th Element /1977>. Because this study is analyzed not through the original article but just through movie, it has some limitation in exact materials or color.

최경자 패션에 나타난 한국적 패션 디자인 연구

이상례(Sang Rae Lee),소황옥(Hwang Oak Soh) 한국복식학회 2016 服飾 Vol.66 No.2

Fashion reflects various cultures, including the spirit and the lifestyle of the period. South Korea has experienced rapid social changes, including the Korean War, industrial development, and the inflow of Western influence. Modern Korean fashion has developed along with these changes. Acceptance of suits and the reformism of the Hanbok are the two notable changes in Korean fashion. Gyungja Choi, and her fashion show, is known for combining modern fashion and traditional beauty by entwining traditional Korean fashion design elements into modern fashion. This research investigated Gyungja Choi as a fashion designer, a fashion education executive who cultivated fashion designers through the education business, and a fashion publisher who published the first professional costume magazine. This research classified the Korean-style design elements in Gyungja Choi’s fashion show by analyzing the clothes exhibited in her fashion shows. In conclusion, Choi’s design utilized Korean-style fashion design elements, such as line, colors, patterns, and materials. Which can be said to be the introduction period that expressed Korean style image in fashion considering the period.

현대 의상에 나타난 움직임의 표현성

이상례(Sang Rve Lee),임영자(Young Ja Lim) 한국복식학회 1993 服飾 Vol.20 No.-

The purposes of this research are firstly to define the characteristics of movement on the costume, secondly to demonstrate that fine art, expecially in relation to kinetic art, has become a good motif in modern costume design, and thirdly to examin the characteristics of movement as shown in modern costume design. For this study, we selected and analyzed some costume designs among those introduced in fashion magazines, which are Collections, Fashion-Preview, Fashion Show, Collezioni, and L`Officiel that have been issued since 1988. As this research is carried out only through the analysis of pictures, it is not accompanied by a study on material itself. The result of this study is that the expression of movement on modern fashion can be shown in two ways, one is the inclusive and subordinate movement expressed on the clothing according to the motion of body when they are worn, and the other is the movement caused by the very designs of clothing. And the latter can be also divided in two ways, the illusionistic movement and the actual movement. The expression of actual movement is made through the emphasis of direction, rhythm, and dimension on the costume. And the illusionistic movement is expressed by the design to which the textile pattern or reflection of light is applied so that the movement is larger than the actual movement. A sense of direction expressed on the costume by the actual movement creates a light rhythm and adds interest to the costume. This reflects a part of psychology of modern men who are not accustomed to the statics. In the rapidly changing society of information our modern men seek after movement ever in the statics. It is also true in the clothing and they seem to get a psychological rest through the immediate visual change as shown in fashion design. The simple and cheerful rhythm expressed by the illusionistic movement on the costume is attempted in order to overcome the static tediousness caused by simple design. These elements of movement cause the enlargement of visible range and create another enlarged shape other than the real one, so that they come to remove the dullness and monotony in costume design and provoke interest in costume, as if kinetic art reveals the various aspects that transcend the closed area of fine art upon the motif of `movement`. Finally, as this paper deals with the expression of movement as shown in the costume design which prevailed after 1988, it is desirable hereafter to study more about the fashion since 1950 when kinetic art began in earnest, along with the comparative study on the expression of movement in our Korean designer`s and foreign designer`s works.

큐잉 이론에 의한 콤퓨터 통신망의 윈도우 흐름제어

이상례(Lee, sangrae),박민용(Park, Mignon),이상배(Lee, sangbae) 대한전자공학회 1986 대한전자공학회 학술대회 Vol.1986 No.12

세기말 현상으로 본 속옷의 겉옷화 현상

이상례(Sang Rye Lee) 한국복식학회 1997 服飾 Vol.35 No.-

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this Ligerie look'fashion The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and

속옷미학

이상례(Sang Rye Lee) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.1

The subject of the paper is for the study about the implication and the changes of design and functions in the underwear by the change of the times from late 19c until present time. Researching on documents and magazine`s articles, and interviewing with women older than 60s is used for the period of previous 1960s. Researching on documents, advertising, newspaper, and interviewing with the persons concerned is used for the period of after 1960s. Analysis showed periodical change in underwear is divided into that the changes of the time is divided into 1890-1950 start to Westernization in underwear, 1950-1969 Ready made in underwear, 1970-1979 Variety in underwear, 1980-1989 Fashioning. Functioning in underwear, 1990-present Withdrawing from fundamental notion in underwear. The time of 1890-1950 showed the biggest change in an external form in underwear. In 1950-1969, notions of beauty in underwear ultimately switch from Oriental sense to Western sense. In 70s, underwear achieved the early stage of fashioning, In 80s, Underwear became one of fashion item. In 90s, underwear achieved higher quality and variety. The basic notion of underwear was destroyed by exposing underwear.

미국 빅토리안 웨딩드레스의 디자인과 제작기법 연구

이상례(Sang Rye Lee) 한국복식학회 2007 服飾 Vol.57 No.9

레이 가와쿠보의 디자인을 통해 본 현대의상(現代衣裳)의 일탈성(逸脫性)

리상례 ( Sang Rye Lee ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2003 패션 비즈니스 Vol.7 No.5

Rei Kawakubo is known for her provocative aesthetics: she often deliberately seeks beauty in what is seen by convention as taboo. With her highly informed and invariably provocative aesthetic, Rei Kawakubo has advanced historical forms of dress using radical functional and structural transpositions. She is considered as a pioneer showing firmly important elements of modern fashion design in her works by fashion journalists. In this paper, I`d like to analysis features of modern fashion design through Rei Kawakubo`s works. I will analysis important elements of Rei Kawakuvo`s design and devote study of the connection between the feature of her design and the feature of modern fashion design.

Walter Van Beirendonck 패션에 재현된 펀 모티프

이상례 ( Sang Rye Lee ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2014 패션 비즈니스 Vol.18 No.5

In general, the idea of fun is understood to be associated with interesting things, playfulnesses, joy, pleasure, etc. The “fun culture,” which seeks enjoyment and pleasure through life, is a characteristic of elements observed in today’s society and culture. This exerts a powerful impacts on the business operation, marketing, and product manufacturing. Moreover, it is accepted as one of remarkable phenomena representing the changing trends of fashion in the 21st century. The objectives of this study were to analyze and categorize the fun motifs observed in fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck ’s collections, to examine their formative characteristics, and to establish academic approaches and analytic framework in studying the fun phenomenon emerging in fashion. As to research methods, this study laid a theoretical ground by reviewing the related literature and previous studies, and conducted a positive case study using the data on Walter Van Beirendonck’s collections and exhibitions. According to the results of this study, the fun motifs represented in Walter Van Beirendonck’s collections are largely categorized into “deviation from rules,” “humorous and obscene graphic images,” “introduction and transformation of heterogeneous elements,” “women with male gender’ etc. On the other side of Walter Van Beirendonck’s fashion are sex, sexual humors, sexuality, fetishism, love, form, body, language, social phenomena, harmony between nature and life, consumerism, race, shamanism, tribal rituals, nation, cultural collision, transcendent things, science fictions, cyber Space, dream, alien, future, fairytale, fantasy etc. which are expressed by using fun motifs. Moreover, these themes are led to masculinity and fantasy.