중세복식에 나타난 성(性)의 이원론적 사고

남윤숙 한국의류학회 2001 한국의류학회지 Vol.25 No.7

Thus is a study on the dualism of gender through the costume in the Middle Age. Jeanne d'Arc was an existential person in the Hundred Years war(1338-1453). She persisted in retaining male attire and armour at her own request. One of the points for which she had been condemned was the wearing of male apparel. It was judged as an evil spirit and rendered Jeanne a witch and a heretic therefore she was burned to death in the market place at Rouen, on the 30th May, 1431. It is one of the evidence which represent dualism of gender through the costume.

아동용 에프론 소고

남윤숙 신라대학교 자연과학연구소 1995 自然科學論文集 Vol.1 No.-

The results of the research in the fashion of children's aprons throughout the portraits from the 17 centuries to the first half of the 18 centuries, are as follows. There were many purposes in aprons. One of them was a decorative feature. Especially, the decorative apron was worn as an important and decorative item of European children's wear in the 17th and 18th century . The aprons of fine expensive fabrics and laces as a decoration were worn as an item of high fashion by women of the upper classes. It caused a rise in the status of apron wearing and additionally, the elegant aprons were beautiful in their own right. These characteristics of aprons were accepted in children's wear So children's aprons used fine expensive fabrics and decoration. This meant that children's aprons were a decorative feature in their dress. As a result of this children's aprons were used continuously for a long time and as a symbol meaning children's wear.

흰색의 기독교 복식에 나타난 색채 상징성

남윤숙 新羅大學校 1998 論文集 Vol.45 No.-

The purpose of the research was to find out the symbols of white ritual garments in Christan churches. White color in ritual garments served to symbolize glory, great joy, holiness and innocence. It served to signify the top place in the colors.

Skirt 길이의 변화에 관한 연구

남윤숙 한국복식학회 1987 服飾 Vol.11 No.-

The present research is to study a variation of skirt length in the time series, from 1955 to 1986. The results are summarized as follows; 1. The most important event is the acceptance of Mini skirts during this period. This phenomenon will play an important role in later skirt length. 2. The year of the shortest skirt length is 1972, while the year of the longest skirt length is 1983. 3. Based upon the year of the shortest skirt length, the periods of the same skirt length are as follows; 1956-1975, 1964-1978, 1959, 1960-1980, 1981, 1961-1982. This phenomenon is irregularly appeared in this study, but shows the change of recurring skirt length. 4. The skirt length has been changed slowly and continuously during the long period of time. In particular, to reach the shortest skirt length takes longer time than that of the longest skirt length. 5. It has taken 6-8 years to reach the top period of Mini skirts (1971-1973) since shorts are introduced. Comparing this phenomenon in Korea with that in Japan, the time difference is about two years. 6. The periods of various skirts length are the year of 1970-1971 and the year of 1972-1973; This result is assumed that individual persons accept sooner or later the changed skirt length. 7. It is belived that Mini skirts are appeared and popularized by external factors. Once Mini skirts are accepted, we can expect that they will be continuously changed in the course of recurring skirt length.

한국여성양장의 효시에 관한 연구

남윤숙 한국복식학회 1991 服飾 Vol.16 No.-

한 · 일 여성복의 양장화에 관한 비교연구

남윤숙 한국복식학회 1992 服飾 Vol.19 No.-

한국현대여성복식제도의 변천과정연구

남윤숙 한국복식학회 1990 服飾 Vol.14 No.-

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modern Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900`s and 1960`s. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional` Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women`s thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change In Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960`s. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920`s to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regualtion over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women`s association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe`s improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960`s resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women`s clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women`s clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this came into a finale` as women`s dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

사파피 람파에 나타난 문화적 상징

남윤숙 한국복식학회 1997 服飾 Vol.34 No.-

The purpose of this study is to research of cultural symbol on Safavid lampas in Persia. The results are as follows. A significant feature of continuous patterns in lampas is the use of the human figure and a signature of designer`s name in the Islamic world. Motifs can be identified as Safavid lampas by the style of motifs such as birds, leaves, trees, flowers on a gold or silver, namely metal background. The result shows that cultural symbol on Safavid lampas is connected with Islamic culture.

한국적 이미지에 의한 유니폼 디자인

남윤숙,김복희 한국의류학회 2003 한국의류학회 학술대회논문집 Vol.2003 No.-

중세 데꼴떼(de´collete´)의 유행에 소렐(Sorel)이 미친 영향

남윤숙 한국의류학회 1997 한국의류학회지 Vol.21 No.2

The purpose of the research was influential in the fashionable decolleti of women's costume in the mid-15th century. The results were as follow: A variation of social environment and an aesthetic sense brought on desires to express human nature. Especially, the importance for costume of the appearance of a new spirit, confirmed and developed on the contemporary. The first symptoms of humanism were leaning towards secular art, an ideal of man at once more independent and avid for action, and an interesting applied to the individual and particularity. In addition, love affairs between the ladies and knights led to increasing interest in the beauty of weakness and tenderness in the women's body. Sorel Agne`s who was a 'lover of Charles VII, France king, had a great influence on the fashion of de'collette' in women's costume. It was just a de'collette' to express an ideal of beauty to neckline in women's dress in contemporary.