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具仁淑 한국의류학회 1979 한국의류학회지 Vol.3 No.1
1. In the late second century A.D. the dalmatic, which originated in Orient, came into fashion in the Roman world. 2. It was first introduced as a vestment in public worship by Pope Sylvester I (314-335A.D.) who ordered it to be worn by the deacons. 3. The dalmatic was cut like a tunic, but wider, and with wide short sleeves. It was worn without belt, and was characteristically decorated by the clavus. Its shape, which is the form of a cross, refer to the passion of Christ. It symbolizes joy, salvation and justice. 4. In early christian epoch, colors was found in the Bible. 5. Clavus running from the shoulders to the hem in front and back represented as "The servant of God", and symbolized the Blood of Christ. With time, clavi change from simple stripes to decorative ones.
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구인숙,박춘순,백민숙 충남대학교 자연과학연구소 1987 忠南科學硏究誌 Vol.14 No.1
Poiret was the first innovator of the new fashion of the twentieth century. Chanel was the second innovator. It is Chanel who saw positively the great spirit of the twentieth century and showed modern emancipated women how to dress. Chanel conveyed their headiness and independence in her clothes. She thought it would be chic to dress them lie working girls and she made the Garconne look, with its flat-bosomed silhouette bounded by straight lines. This look in fashion was closely related to the cubist movement in art popular at that time. Chanel expressed the casual simplicity, comfortness, function in her clothes and Chanel style had the smart, understated(Deluxe poor look), easy-to-wear looks. Chanel wanted to dress all women and had great understanding of the value of publicity as a fashion force. With Chanel-designed clothes, the wholesale apparel business therived. Her simplified clothes lent themselves to mass production as the elaborate creations before her could not do.
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服飾에 있어서 紫色에 對한 一考察 : 古代 中國 服飾을 中心으로
具仁淑,吳春子 충남대학교 자연과학연구소 1983 忠南科學硏究誌 Vol.10 No.1
In this paper, we studied on symbolic conceptions and the order of value of colors in the ancient China. In the society of ancient China, there was a value system which the five primary colors being matched to the five elements, were placed at upper positions and the intermidiate colors being formed by the sum of some primary colors were placed at the lower. Purple, as it was called a secondary color, was placed at the lower position but it became to represent divinity with raising the thoughts of the Taoist and with the combination of the meanings of Purple Palace on which TAI-IL of the Taoist, that is, the highest one of gods dwelt. Accordingly, purple became a color of favor and loft in the Lu, the color of the ribbon of the seal(綬) in the era of Han, a color of the trousers and lined clothes at the matial time of the Northern and Southern Dynasties of Wui, Chin and a color of the highest minister's clothes in Su, Dang dynasty. Therefore if the five primary colors are symbolized as colors of the Confucian we can regard purple as a color of the Taoist.
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具仁淑 충남대학교 자연과학연구소 1984 忠南科學硏究誌 Vol.11 No.2
This paper is a study on Paul Poiret (1876-1944), one of the pioneers of modern modes, and his works. Poiret was a man of broad interests, great imagination, and magnificent taste. With Poiret the elegance of chic simplicity began to replace the elegance of display that had been in vogue since the time of Louis XIV(1644-1715). He established the modernized mode by liberating all women from their shackles of bone and steel, and by replacing the diseased elegance colors with the vivid brilliant colors such as cerise, purple, blue, vermilion, green. He created the minaret, the hobble skirt, the oriental pantalon, and the tailored suits. Their fashion acceptance and his fame were the greatest that any designer had ever experienced. He was the first to realize the possibilies of fashion photography. In 1908 his novel designs were published in a beautifully printed album, "Les Robes de Paul Poiret", with illustration by Paul Iribe. And in 1910 the second luxury album of his designs, "Les choses de Paul Poiret vues par George Lepape" He was the first fashion designer to create a perfume that harmonized with his style, and he showed the excellent talent in the field of decorative arts, also. He founded the Martine School for crafts in Paris in 1912, which added impetus to the new directions that were beginning to be felt in interior design, bringing it from a craft up to the status of an art. With R. Dufy he created the printed textile. Then he achieved the important task of modernization that is called the connection of art and industry. After the World War Ⅰ, a constellation of Poiret was collapsed by the wave of the functionalism, however, in the mode and in the decorative arts, as the turning point of Poiret, the things of 19th century departed, and a new age, that is, modern age starts.
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具仁淑 충남대학교 자연과학연구소 1981 忠南科學硏究誌 Vol.8 No.1
This is a study on prohibition of White Gaments during the Yi Dynasty. The government prohibited to wear White Garments due to the theory of the Five Elements, Which claimed that the east were oliged to were not Which Garments but Blue ones. In spite of me prohibition, White Garments were deeply favored by common people. The reasons are as follows: 1. Economy : Dyes were costly 2. Technique : Dyeing methods were not fully developed. 3. Preference : Common people favored white color 4. Courtesy : White garments were symbolized courtesy in mourning
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구인숙 한국의류학회 1991 한국의류학회지 Vol.15 No.4
The purpose of this research was to develop an automatic design with dialogue function in computer for pants pattern making. AutoCAD including AutoLISP was the programable software package, so AutoCAD were used basically for this research. The conclusions were like these; 1. Dialogue functions of computer allowed the designer to choose emotional elements. 2. The coordinate points needed in drafting for women's pants pattern making were suggested by numerical fomula. So, if the input data of body sizes needed were used, pants patterns for person were automatically obtained as the output. 3. The several curvature parts were presented by using exponent function and the arc drawing of AutoCAD and the degree of bends were to be selected by choosing the simple parameter of algebraic function and arc AutoCAD command. 4. The program permited pattern manipulation and pattern grading of five standard sizes were presented. Also its flow chart by AutoLISP with dialogue function were presented.
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