스티치 기법을 응용한 패션 일러스트레이션 연구

신혜정 한국패션디자인학회 2019 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.19 No.1

Fashion illustrations are becoming increasingly diverse, and visual effects are also becoming more enriched. Thus, fashion illustrations are recognized as independent popular arts, and original researches to develop new expression methods are constantly being attempted. In this trend, fashion illustrations using a stitch technique are prominent. This study creates fashion illustrations that utilize various kinds of stitching techniques, which make the texture stereoscopic and unique. For the theoretical background, this study examined the concept and types of stitch techniques and explored modern fashion illustrations using stitch techniques, which are divided into three – dimensional, space, and texture. Based on the theoretical review, this study develops six fashion illustrations by using various hand stitches, machine stitches and collage of fabrics. The works use the form of the upper half body and mainly use the color of Dull tone and Light tone. In order to emphasize the stitch line, the color of the yarn and fabric was selected to match the background. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the stitch technique fully confirmed the possibility as an artistic technique to show not only the practical elements connecting fabric but also three – dimensional beauty. Second, it showed that it is possible to express a shape or a detailed description by drawing using a line expressed by stitches. Third, using the difference of texture and thickness of hand stitch and machine stitch, it showed the perspective in the image effectively. Finally, through the production of the work, it was found that the stitch technique is effective in expressing the three-dimensional feeling and the spatial feeling of the face image, and it is confirmed that the texture such as costume detail, accessories, and hair style can be enriched. 패션 일러스트레이션은 그 표현방법이 점차 다양화되고 있으며 이를 통해 시각적인 효과 또한 풍성해지는 추세이다. 이에 패션 일러스트레이션은 독립적인 대중 예술로 인정받으며 새로운 표현방법을 개발하고자 하는 독창적인 연구들이 끊임없이 시도되고 있다. 이러한 경향 속에 스티치 기법을 응용한 패션 일러스트레이션이 두각을 나타내고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 다양한 종류의 스티치 기법을 응용해 입체적인 느낌과 독특한 재질감을 살린 패션 일러스트레이션 작품을 제작하고자 한다. 문헌 조사를 통해 스티치 기법의 개념과 종류를 우선적으로 알아보았고 스티치 기법을 응용한 현대 패션 일러스트레이션을 탐색하며 작품들에 나타난 특성을 입체감, 공간감, 재질감으로 나누어 각각의 표현방법을 살펴보았다. 이론적 고찰을 토대로 본 연구는 6개의 작품을 제작하였으며, 해당 작품들은 다양한 핸드 스티치와 머신 스티치를 혼용하고 원단을 콜라주하여 이미지 표현을 극대화하였다. 상반신 위주의 형태와 덜톤, 라이트톤 중심의 컬러를 이용하고, 스티치 선을 강조하기 위해 실, 원단의 색을 배경과 대조되게 선택하여 작품을 제작하였다. 본 연구의 결론은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 스티치 기법은 천을 연결하는 실용적 요소뿐만 아니라 입체적 조형미를 보여줄 수 있는 예술적 기법으로서의 가능성을 충분히 확인하였다. 둘째, 스티치로 표현된 선을 이용하여 드로잉 하듯 형태를 표현하거나 세부적인 묘사가 가능함을 보여주었다. 셋째, 핸드 스티치와 머신 스티치의 조직감과 두께감의 차이를 활용하여 이미지 내의 원근감을 효과적으로 보여주었다. 마지막으로, 작품 제작을 통해 스티치 기법은 얼굴 이미지의 입체감과 공간감을 표현하는 데 효과적임을 알 수 있었으며 의상 디테일, 액세서리, 헤어스타일 등의 질감을 풍부하게 할 수 있음을 확인하였다.

이미지 Stitching의 정확한 변환관계 계산을 위한 대응점 관계정보 기반의 개선된 RANSAC 알고리즘

이현철 ( Hyunchul Lee ),김강석 ( Kangseok Kim ) 한국정보처리학회 2018 정보처리학회논문지. 소프트웨어 및 데이터 공학 Vol.7 No.1

최근 가상현실 기반의 콘텐츠들이 늘어나면서 이미지 Stitching 기술의 사용이 증가하고 있다. 이미지 Stitching이란 고해상도 이미지 및 넓은 시야(Wide Field of View)의 이미지를 생성하기 위해 다중의 영상을 정합하는 방법이다. 이런 이미지 Stitching은 하나의 카메라로부터 생성되는 영상의 한계를 넘어 다양한 분야에서 활용되고 있다. 이미지 Stitching은 다중의 영상을 정합하기 위해 특징 점 및 대응점을 검출하고 RANSAC 알고리즘을 이용하여 영상간의 변환관계(Homography)를 계산한다. 일반적으로 변환관계 계산을 위해 대응점들이 필요하다. 그러나 대응점들에는 변환관계에 대한 잘못된 가정이나 오류로 인해 발생할 수 있는 다양한 유형의 노이즈(Noise)가 포함되어 있다. 이러한 노이즈는 변환관계를 정확히 예측하는 방해 요인이 된다. 이처럼 일반적으로 사용되는 대응점 매칭(Matching) 방법들은 잘못된 대응점들을 매칭할 수 있는 경우가 발생하기 때문에 모델 파라미터의 예측을 방해하는 대응점(Outlier)로부터 정확한 변환관계를 구축하기 위해 RANSAC 알고리즘을 사용한다. 본 논문에서는 RANSAC 알고리즘에 사용되는 대응점 관계 정보를 이용하여 좀 더 정확한 대응점(Inlier)을 추출하고 정확한 변환관계를 계산하는 알고리즘을 제안한다. 대응점 관계 정보는 이미지 매칭에 사용되는 대응점 간의 거리 비율을 사용하며, 본 논문은 기존 RANSAC 알고리즘과 같은 성능을 유지하면서 처리 시간을 단축시키는데 있다. Recently, the use of image stitching technology has been increasing as the number of contents based on virtual reality increases. Image Stitching is a method for matching multiple images to produce a high resolution image and a wide field of view image. The image stitching is used in various fields beyond the limitation of images generated from one camera. Image Stitching detects feature points and corresponding points to match multiple images, and calculates the homography among images using the RANSAC algorithm. Generally, corresponding points are needed for calculating conversion relation. However, the corresponding points include various types of noise that can be caused by false assumptions or errors about the conversion relationship. This noise is an obstacle to accurately predict the conversion relation. Therefore, RANSAC algorithm is used to construct an accurate conversion relationship from the outliers that interfere with the prediction of the model parameters because matching methods can usually occur incorrect correspondence points. In this paper, we propose an algorithm that extracts more accurate inliers and computes accurate transformation relations by using correspondence point relation information used in RANSAC algorithm. The correspondence point relation information uses distance ratio between corresponding points used in image matching. This paper aims to reduce the processing time while maintaining the same performance as RANSAC.

몬드리안의 신조형적 특성을 응용한 도미노 니트 조직의 니트웨어 디자인

장애란 ( Jang Ae-ran ),황경혜 ( Hwang Gyung-hye ) 한국디자인트렌드학회 2013 한국디자인포럼 Vol.40 No.-

본 연구의 목적은 도미노 니트 조직이 니트웨어의 표현영역 확대 및 독창적인 디자인 개발에 활용될 수 있는지를 몬드리안의 신조형적 특성을 차용한 니트웨어 디자인에 도미노 니트 조직의 기법을 도입함으로써 규명하고자 한다. 이를 위해 몬드리안 회화에서 도출한 모티브를 신조형적 특성인 수직·수평선과 삼원색, 삼무채색에 의한 색상 대비 및 면의 분할로 재구성한 니트웨어 디자인에 도미노 니트 조직 기법으로 제작한 3 작품을 제시한다. 작품 I은 몬드리안의 `Red Tree`에서 도출한 모티브를 응용하여 도미노 니트 조직의 평면 뜨기로 제작한 네트 가방이고, 작품 II는 몬드리안의 `Composition with Red, Blue, and Yellow`에서 도출한 모티브와 재해석한 몬드리안 룩을 응용하여 가터뜨기와 도미노 뜨기를 혼합하여 제작한 H-Line 원피스이다. 작품 III은 몬드리안의 `Composition with Red and Black`과 `Lorenge composition with Red, Black, Blue and Yellow`에서 도출한 모티브와 재해석한 프라다의 몬드리안 룩을 응용하여 가터뜨기와 도미노 뜨기를 혼합하여 제작한 H-Line 원피스이다. 결론적으로, 도미노 니트 조직의 표현기법을 니트웨어 디자인에도 접목시킬 수 있음을 재 규명하기 위함이다. The purpose of study is to establish by reviewing the technique of domino-knitting stitch for knitwear design based on Mondrian`s Neo Plastic characteristics in order to establish the possible development of creative design and expand domain of expression of knitwear through domino-knitting stitch. To achieve this, 1st, to consider the Neo Plastic characteristics based on the horizontal line & vertical line and the three primary color & three achromatic color, and the concept of Domino-knitting stitch. 2nd, to present knitwear design works recreating motive derived from Mondrian`s paintings based on color contrast and division of face. Work I is the net bag knitted by domino-knitting stitch using motive derived Mondrian`s `Red Tree`. Work II is the H-line one-piece knitted by a mix of garter stitch and domino-knitting stitch using motive derived Mondrian`s `Composition with Red, Blue and Yellow` and reinterpreting Mondrian look. Work III is the H-line one-piece knitted by a mix of garter stitch and domino-knitting stitch using motive derived Mondrian`s `Composition with Red and Black` and `Lorenge composition with Red, Black, Blue and Yellow` and reinterpreting PRADA`s Mondrian look. Consequently, it is to reinterpret to add technique of domino-knitting stitch to various knitwear design.

세탁과 건조에 따른 양모 위편성물의 편성조직별 형태 변화

박세은,백성필,박명자 한국의상디자인학회 2022 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.24 No.2

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

연구논문 : 니트의 편성조직에 따른 물성 평가

예수정 ( Su Jeong Yea ),송화순 ( Wha Soon Song ) 한국의류산업학회 2011 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.13 No.6

This study analyzed the effects of the knit stitch type, fiber composition, and yarn thickness on the mechanical properties of knitted fabric. The results were as follows: The course density was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. On the other hand, the wale density was the highest in the case of the float stitch. The thickness was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses considered in this study. The burst strength of wool knit fabric was higher than that of NW knit fabric. The stiffness was the lowest in the case of the plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The pilling properties were excellent for all knit stitches, fiber composition, and yarn thicknesses as pilling degree : 5. The air permeability decreased in the following order : rib> plain> float stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The heat retention rate decreased in the following order : rib > float> plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses.

컷 앤 쏘운 니트(cut and sewn knit) 의류제조의 스티치 사용 실태에 관한 연구

이수연 ( Suyeon Lee ),하희정 ( Hee Jung Ha ) 대한가정학회 2019 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.57 No.1

The use of standardized stitches in globalized apparel markets is becoming increasingly important. However, many apparel vendors still use disunified stitches, such as Japanese and English. This study analyzes the usage of clothing stitches of cut and sewn knit garment fabrication of small companies. The results of the analysis of 464 worksheets of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, of the 464 worksheets, only 4.31% are labeled as ISO 4915 No. Among the 1,399 stitches, only 3.15% were marked with the ISO 4915 No. Second, among 1,399 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401 was the most frequently used. Third, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was used the most; in addition, ISO 4915 No. 401, 301 and 304 were also frequently used. Fourth, in the case of the bottoms, the stitch with the highest frequency was ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by ISO 4915 No. 103 and 401, respectively. Fifth, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was most commonly used in hemlines and sleeve edges; in addition, in the case of the bottoms, ISO 4915 No. 406 and 103 were most commonly used as hemlines. In conclusion, it is important to use international standard stitches, especially for the most frequently used stitches. By using the standard stitches, the communication errors between production departments can be reduced and information can be accurately delivered.

Regression model to predict thread consumption incorporating thread-tension constraint: study on lock-stitch 301 and chain-stitch 401

Ranga Prasad Abeysooriya,Ganemulle Lekamalage Dharmasri Wickramasinghe 한국의류학회 2014 Fashion and Textiles Vol.1 No.1

Prediction of sewing thread consumption requires an accurate method of calculation since it relates to the cost of manufacturing and distribution of apparel products. Previous researchers highlighted problems in existing thread consumption calculation methods; i.e. limitations in existing formulae which cause inaccurate predictions of thread amount needed for sewing operations. The existing methods of consumption calculations exhibit significant error percentages due to the ignorance of important parameters which affect on thread consumption. This paper investigates on correlation of thread tension to thread consumption of lock-stitch 301 and chain-stitch 401. The existing thread consumption formulae are optimized by considering a new parameter; thread tension, using regression analysis and geometrical modeling techniques. For the chain-stitch 401, results indicate that the thread tension significantly affects in determination of the thread consumption. The error analysis of proposed formulae was performed to indicate that the proposed formulae more accurate compared to the available methods of predicting sewing thread consumption. In addition, there are combined effects of thread tensions together with parameters such as fabric thickness and stitch density which determines accurate consumption values considering the properties of the stitch. In comparison, inclusion of the proposed thread tension variable depicts reduction in error percentages, so that the proposed formulae are expected to be a better approach to calculate thread consumption of lock-stitch 301 and chain-stitch 401.

Experimental investigation of interlaminar mechanical properties on carbon fiber stitched CFRP laminates

Iwahori, Yutaka,Ishikawa, Takashi,Watanabe, Naoyuki,Ito, Akira,Hayashi, Yoichi,Sugimoto, Sunao The Korean Society for Composite Materials 2007 Advanced composite materials Vol.16 No.2

Experimental investigations of interlaminar mechanical properties for carbon fiber reinforced plastic (CFRP) laminates were carried out using aramid fiber ($Kevlar^{(R)}$-29 1000d) and carbon fiber (TR40-1K 612d, Mitsubishi Rayon) stitching. Various carbon fiber (CF) stitch densities were used to prepare a number of CF stitched CFRP laminates for double cantilever beam (DCB) tests. An insert tongue-type loading fixture, developed by the Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (formerly the National Aerospace Laboratory of Japan), was also employed in the DCB test. Interlaminar tension tests were carried out under an out-of-plane directional loading using a single CF stitch thread in the CFRP laminates. The DCB test results clarified that the relationship between the volume fractions of the CF stitch thread ($V_{ft}$) and mode I critical energy release rate ($G_{Ic}$) showed a mostly linear function with a higher gradient than that of the $Kevlar^{(R)}$ stitched CFRP laminates. The CF stitched CFRP tension test results indicated that the consumption energy per unit area ($E_i$) was larger than that of $Kevlar^{(R)}$ stitched CFRP laminates.

Characterization of tensile damage progress in stitched CFRP laminates

Yoshimura, Akinori,Yashiro, Shigeki,Okabe, Tomonaga,Takeda, Nobuo The Korean Society for Composite Materials 2007 Advanced composite materials Vol.16 No.3

This study experimentally and numerically investigated the tensile damage progress in stitched laminates. In particular, it focused on the effects of stitching on the damage progress. First, we experimentally confirmed that ply cracks and delamination appeared under load regardless of stitching. We then performed damage-extension simulation for stitched laminates using a layer-wise finite element model with stitch threads as beam elements, in which the damage (ply cracks and delamination) was represented by cohesive elements. A detailed comparison between observation and the simulated results confirmed that stitching had little effect on the onset and accumulation of ply cracks. Furthermore, we demonstrated that the stitch threads significantly suppressed the extension of the delamination.

Improvement of Out-of-Plane Impact Damage Resistance of CFRP Due to Through-the-Thickness Stitching

Yoshimura, Akinori,Nakao, Tomoaki,Takeda, Nobuo The Korean Society for Composite Materials 2009 Advanced composite materials Vol.18 No.2

The present study investigated, both experimentally and numerically, the improvement of low-velocity impact damage resistance of carbon fiber reinforced plastic (CFRP) laminates due to through-the-thickness stitching. First, we conducted drop-weight impact tests for stitched and unstitched laminates. The results of damage inspection confirmed that stitching did improve the impact damage resistance, and revealed that the improvement effect became greater as the impact energy increased. Moreover, the stitching affected the through-the-thickness damage distribution. Next, we performed FEM analysis and calculated the energy release rate of the delamination crack using the virtual crack closure technique (VCCT). The numerical results revealed that the stitching affected the through-the-thickness damage distribution because the stitch threads had a marked effect on decreasing both the modes I and II energy release rate around the bottom of the laminate. Comparison of the results for models that contained delaminations of various sizes revealed that the energy release rate became lower as delamination size increased; therefore the stitching improved the impact resistance more effectively when the impact energy was higher.