락(Lac) 염색시 천연탄닌의 매염효과: 타라와 미로발란

배상경 ( Sangk Young Bai ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2014 패션 비즈니스 Vol.18 No.4

This research was carried out to find the mordant effects by Tara and Myrobalan asnatural tannins on the cow leather dyed with Lac powder. The cow leathers were treated with Tara, Myrobalan, Al, Cu, and Fe mordants by changing treatment orders. It was examined for K/S value, surface color changes, and color difference. The K/S valuegenerally has higher Myrobalan than Tara, and pre-mordant than post-mordanted condition. Cu is the strongest among the three mordants. As a results of the treatment order, the K/S value is higer in pre-tannin-mordant agent than in pre-mordant agent-tannin. In the post mordant, K/S value is higher in mordant agent-tannin than in tannin-mordant agent. The color difference and color factors such as H, V and C were various according to the mordant agents, treatment orders and mordant methods; and surface colors of dyed cow leathers were R and RP. It was difficult to find some significant means of mordant orders.

매염제 특성과 방법에 따른 가지 껍질 염색성 고찰 - 실크 직물을 중심으로 -

최정연(Choi, Jung Yeon) 한국디자인문화학회 2021 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.27 No.1

오랜 역사 속에 발전되어온 천연염색은 오늘날 자연과 함께 건강한 삶을 영위하고자 하는 현대인들의 관심으로 계속 연구되어지고 있다. 천연염색은 소재와 재료 매염제 그리고 매염방법이나 조건에 따라 다양한 색상으로 표현되어지는 장점이 있다. 본 연구는 안토시아닌 색소를 포함하고 있는 가지 껍질을 실크에 적용하기 위한 연구로서 매염제와 매염방법 그리고 염색온도 변화를 살피고 견뢰도를 측정함으로서 매염제 특성에 따른 실용가능성을 살피고자 하며, 색도를 측정하여 매염제와 방법에 따르는 색도의 차이를 살펴보고자 연구를 진행하였다. 연구의 방법으로는 건가지 껍질을 60-70℃에서 30분간 우려내어 욕비 1:80의 비율과 농도 1.2%로 각각의 적용하여 2시간 동일 조건하에 염색하였다. 구연산, 소석회, 동, 철, 백반의 매염제를 사용하여 선매염과 후매염으로 나누어 실험하였고 드라이클리닝, 땀, 마찰, 일광 견뢰도를 측정하였으며, 이 중 구연산, 동, 백반을 적용한 시험포는 색도를 측정하였다. 연구결과, 견뢰도 평가에서 드라이클리닝과 마찰 견뢰도는 모든 시험포에서 안정적으로 평가되었다. 땀견뢰도에서는 동 선매염을 제외한 모든 시험포가 후매염에서 더 안정적인 결과가 나왔다. 일광 견뢰도는 동 매염제의 후매염이 가장 높은 수치로 측정 되었으며 모든 시험포에서 선매염보다는 후매염이 더 높은 수치로 측정이 되었다. 색도 평가에서 L*값은 전반적으로 선매염보다는 후매염에서 수치가 높게 나타났으며, 구연산은 온도가 올라갈수록 선매염과 후매염에서 동과 백반은 선매염에서 a*값이 증가하였다. b*값은 온도가 오를수록 모든 시료의 선매염에서 증가하였다. 본 연구는 가지를 실크에 염색하여 실용 가능성을 살펴보기 위한 연구로서 매염제와 매염 방법에 따르는 염색적 특성을 이해하고 가지 껍질을 실크 염색에 적합한 매염제를 제시하기 위한 실질적인 학술적 자료를 제시하고자 한다. Natural dyeing, which has been developed throughout the history continues to be studied to date with the increasing interest of modern people in leading a healthy life with nature. Natural dyeing features the ability to be expressed in a variety of colors depending on its materials, mordants mordant methods and conditions. This study aims to identify if eggplant shells containing anthocyanin component are practical enough to be used as a mordant and applicable to silk based on the properties of mordant by examining mordants, mordant methods, and changes in dyeing temperature, and measuring the color fastness as well as the chromaticity to determine the difference in chromaticity depending on the mordants and mordant method. To this end, dry eggplant shells have been brewed at the temperature of 60 to 70℃ for 30 minutes and been used for dyeing for two hours under the same conditions at the bath ratio of 1:80 and the concentration of 1.2%. Pre-mordanting and post-mordanting tests have been conducted using citric acid, slack lime, copper, iron, and alum as mordants. Measurements of color fastness to dry cleaning, sweat, friction, and light have been made while the chromaticity has been measured on the test fabric with citric acid, copper, and alum applied. According to the results, in fastness evaluation, dry cleaning and friction fastness were evaluated to be stable in all samples. About sweat fastness, all samples except for bronze pre-mordanting were found to be more stable in post-mordanting. Light fastness was measured to be the highest in the post-mordanting of bronze mordants, and in all samples, post-mordanting was measured to be higher than pre-mordanting. Concerning calorimetric evaluation, L* was higher in post-mordanting than pre-mordanting in general, and as temperature got higher, a* increased in both pre-mordanting and post-mordanting in citric acid and also in pre-mordanting in bronze and alum. As temperature increased, b* became higher in pre-mordanting in all samples. This study is aimed to dye silk with eggplant and examine the possibility of its practical use. The purpose of this study is to understand its dyeing characteristics in accordance with mordants and mordanting methods and provide academic materials equipped with practicality in order to suggest mordants right for dyeing silk with eggplant peel.

Natural Dyeing Using Tea Extract I -The Effect Of Mordants On Dyeing Characteristics Of Coffee Extract Dyed Silk Fabric-

( Hyun Geun Yoo ),( Sin Hee Kim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2005 패션 비즈니스 Vol.9 No.6

Natural dyes have attracted the worldwide attention because of its environmental advantage over synthetic dyes. However, most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store. In this study, coffee waste were used as natural dye to create beautiful colors. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provides a comparatively regular quality regardless of seasonand source. The effects of mordant agent concentration and mordanting temperature on dyeing efficiency of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordants. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color. The increase in mordant concentration did not always increase the dyeability, and 0.5% o.w.f. mordant concentration was enough to get a satifactory result. Mordanting temperature also had little effect on the dyeability in case of Al, Cu, and Sn mordanted fabrics. Only Fe mordanted fabrics showed a better dyeability in the increase in mordating temperature. Coffee extract dyeing is an effective way using waste as resource and can create brilliant colors with minimal amount of mordant and under mild mordanting condition.

Color and fastness properties of mordanted Bridelia ferruginea B dyed cellulosic fabric

Jamiu Mosebolatan Jabar,Ademola Israel Ogunmokun,Tella Adewale Akanni Taleat 한국의류학회 2020 Fashion and Textiles Vol.7 No.1

Bridelia ferruginea B dye was extracted from the bark of the tree using aqueous extraction method. Extracted dye was used to dye cellulosic (cotton) fabric in presence of 5% calcium chloride ( CaCl2) or 5% alum (KAl(SO4)2·12H2O) of weight of fabric (o.w.f ) as mordant. Fabric dyed without mordant was lighter in hue than metal ion mordanted dyed fabrics. The fabrics dyed in presence of calcium chloride as mordant are of deeper hue than those dyed with alum as mordant. Hence, their dye-uptake and color strength (K/S) are in the same order. K/S value of fabric dyed with alum is 43.71% higher than that without mordant and fabric dyed with calcium chloride has K/S value 51.09% higher than dyed with alum as mordant. CIEL*a*b* coordinate indicator and color space quadrant showed that those dyed fabrics without mordant and with alum as mordant are closer to yellow than red color. Those cellulosic fabrics dyed with calcium chloride as mordant are closer to red than yellow color as confirmed in colour space quadrant. Pre-mordanted dyed fabrics are of deeper color than post-mordanted dyed fabrics than meta-mordanted dyed fabrics than unmordant dyed fabric. Fastness properties of B. ferruginea B dyed cellulosic fabrics ranged from good (3) to excellent (5).

천연염료의 매염에 따른 염색성 및 물성에 관한 연구 : 소목과 꼭두서니를 중심으로

차옥선,김소현 한국의류학회 1999 한국의류학회지 Vol.23 No.6

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability, colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L.(Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai(Madder) by boil water. Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows 1. In the case of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan word, K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder, bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase, the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder, bluer, and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light, the fabrics dyed with sappan wool and madder change to less red. Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural--dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in a CIELAB chromaticity co--ordinates. So, we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing, the colors of natural dyes change to more blue. Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do, 5. The soil--burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

택란의 염색성 및 항균성

예수정 ( Su Jeong Yea ),송화순 ( Wha Soon Song ) 한국의류학회 2012 한국의류학회지 Vol.36 No.3

In this research, the dyeing properties of Lycopus lucidus Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, a*, b* and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of Lycopus lucidus Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), 50℃, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), 70℃, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, Lycopus lucidus Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

매염제 처리에 의한 허브 염색직물의 염착 특성- 세이지와 로즈마리 추출물 중심으로 -

구신애,배현숙 한국의류산업학회 2020 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.22 No.1

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of pre-mordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

검정팥 종피 추출물에 의한 천연염색

차해숙,정양숙,배도규 경북대학교 농업생명과학대학 2012 Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences Vol.30 No.2

본 연구에서는 검정팥 종피에 함유된 천연색소에 대한 연구의 일환으로, 천연염료로서의 적용을 위해 염색조건 즉 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색 pH, 욕비에 따른 K/S 값을 측정하여 적정 염색조건을 설정하고, 여러 매염제를 적용하여 색상변화에 미치는 영향 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색성에서는 견직물의 경우 pH 4에서 가장 염착량이 많았고, 면직물의 경우에는 주어진 범위 내에서 는 pH가 높을수록 염착량이 많았다. 2. 염색온도와 시간에 따른 염색성은, 견직물의 경우, 염색온도 와 에서는 전반적으로 염착량이 낮고 시간에 따른 염착량의 차이도 크지 않았으나 염색온도 에서는 시간이 경과할수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 면직물의 경우도 견직물과 비슷한 결과로 온도가 높아질수록 염색시간이 경과될수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 3. 견직물에 대한 매염제 종류별 표면색의 변화에서는 Fe 매염포만 YRY 로 변화되었을 뿐 다른 매염제에서는 매염후에도 색상 변화는 크지 않았다. Sn 매염과 Ti 매염포는 무 매염포 보다 값이 상승하였으나 나머지 매염제는 값이 크게 감소되었다. 면직물에 대한 표면색의 변화는 견직물에서와 같은 경향으로 나타났으며, 값에 있어서는 견직물과 다르게 Ni 매염포만 무매염포보다 값이 크게 나타났다. 4. 매염처리 전 견직물의 일광 견뢰도는 무매염이 4~6등급, Al 처리포는 4~5등급, Cu와 Sn은 3~4등급으로 나타났고 Fe는 2~3등급으로 가장 낮게 나타났으며, 세탁견뢰도에서는 무매염 2등급, 매염제 처리포는 전부 2내지 3등급으로 나타났다. 무매염 면직물의 일광견뢰도는 1~2등급, Fe 매염은 2~3등급, Cu 2등급 Al과 Sn은 1~2등급으로 매염처리에 의해 전혀 개선되지 않았으며, 세탁견뢰도의 경우 Cu매염이 4등급으로 양호하게 나타났으며 무매염, Al, Sn과 Fe는 3등급으로 나타났다. In this study the natural colorant was extracted from black bean seed coat in aqueous solution and used to dye silk and cotton fabrics. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing condition (temperature, pH, time and liquor ratio). The dyeing behavior and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. The dyeing fastness evaluated standard light and wash fastness tests. The obtained results were as follows ; The most K/S value of silk and cotton fabrics were obtained when the pH was 4.0 and 4.8, respectively and it increased slightly with dyeing time passes when the dyeing temperatures were at and but, it increased at . The color of silk fabrics changed from yellowish red to yellow at only Fe mordanting among various mordanting. Sn and Ti mordanting of silk fabric and only Ni mordanting of cotton fabric increased the values, but the others decreased. The light fastness of silk fabrics showed 4-6 grade without mordant, 4-5 grade with Al, 3-4 grade with Cu and Sn, and 2-3 grade with Fe as mordant, and that of cotton fabrics showed 1-2 grade without mordant, 2-3 grade with Fe, 2 grade with Cu, 1-2 grade with Al and Sn as mordants. All mordanting coluld not improve the light fastness of fabrics. Washing fastness(fade) of silk fabrics showed 2 grade without mordants and 2-3 grade with mordants and those of cotton fabrics showed 4 grade with Cu, 3 grade without mordant and with Al, Sn and Fe. All of the washing fastness(stain) of both fabrics showed 4-5 grade.

꼭두서니에 의한 면직물의 염색시 매염제와 키토산 처리가 색상에 미치는 영향

최정임,전동원 한국의류산업학회 2003 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.5 No.3

Large quantity of metal mordant in natural dyeing has been used. For environmental reason, there is a need to reduce the amount of metal mordant and suggest the optimum amount of metal mordant in dyeing process. In this study the relationship between mordant concentration and dyeing property was investigated. Various metal mordant concentrations of Al, Cu, Fe, Sn, were studied (from 1 to 5%). After treatment of mordant on cotton fabric, the concentration of metal ion in used mordant solution was quantified. There was no significant difference of the tone of color in mordant concentration from 1% to 5%, Therefore, there is no need to increase mordant concentration over 1%. chitosan treated cotton fabric showed a significant increase in dyeing affinity compared to untreated cotton fabric (the value of AE was 20). chitosan increased dye affinity significantly in the presence of mordant. It can be suggested that chitosan itself can replace metal mordants in the future.

Black Color Expression of Silk and Cotton Fabrics Using Neutral Extract from Pinus radiata Bark and Various Iron Mordants

Ji Sun Mun,Hwan Chul Kim,Sung Phil Mun 한국섬유공학회 2022 Fibers and polymers Vol.23 No.4

This study was conducted to develop an effective mordanting method for black color expression of silk and cottonfabrics using the neutral extract (NE) of Pinus radiata bark and various iron mordants. Also, mordanting characteristics ofiron salts in equimolar concentrations were evaluated. The mordanting was carried out in methods of pre-, post-, and pre- andthen post-mordanting in one process with ferrous sulfate (FeSO4), ferrous chloride (FeCl2), ferrous acetate (Fe(CO2CH3)2),ferrous lactate (Fe-lac, Fe(CH3CH(OH)CO2)2, ferric sulfate (Fe2(SO4)3), and ferric chloride (FeCl3). The mordantconcentration was 1 mM o.w.f. (on the weight of fabric); 0.5 mM for Fe2(SO4)3. The colors of mordanted silk fabrics rangedfrom dark brown to black and that of mordanted cotton fabric were in the range of light grayish-brown to gray. Using ferrousion (Fe2+) and post-mordanting methods led to the expression of darker colors and the divalent and trivalent cations (Fe ions)were found to influence dark color expression. The color of silk fabric in the presence of the combination of Fe2(SO4)3 preandFe-lac post-mordanting (PSPL) was closest to the silk fabric dyed with synthetic black dye. Based on the colorfastnessassessment, an increase in the light fastness of PSPL silk fabric was observed along with a decrease in the rubbing fastnesscompared to the non-mordanted silk.