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조선궁중무용 복식 연구(Ⅰ)-光武 6年 呈才 服飾을 중심으로-
최미희(Choe Mee-Hee),조효순(Cho Hyo-Soon) 한복문화학회 1998 韓服文化 Vol.1 No.2
Jong-Jae is one that means whole songs and dances which had done in the interior of the imperial palace. Since it had been used for a member of royal family. it used the most elegant and brilliant dresses without concern of that period and one's social position.<br/> This Jong-Jae had become more complex since the Gwang-Mu Alternation and it was began to more brilliant and large<br/> scale banquet. This thesis surveys the change of style, color and fabric with envestigating"Ak-Hak-Gue-Bom(1493)", "Jong-Ri-Eui-Gue(1795)" and "Jin-Yon-Eui-Gue (1902)", Among these references, especially, we surveys the last banquet of Chosun Dynasty with investigating the Jong-Jae dress shown in "Jin- Yon-Eue-Gue".<br/> In the Jong-Jae, there were two kinds of dress style as common dress and special dress. For Hon-San-Do, Mong-Gum-Chck, Yon-Baek-Bok- Ji-Mu, Soo-Yon-Jang, Jae-Soo-Chang, Ga-In- Jon-Mok-Dan, Bo-Sang-Mu, Heon-Chon-Hwa, A-Bark-Mu, Hyang-Ryong-Mu, Sa-Son-Mu, Jang-Saeng-Bo-Yon-Ji-Mu, Man-Soo-Mu, Mu- Ae-Mu, Po-Goo-Rak, Bong-Rae-Eui. Cho-Mu, Choon-Gwang-Ho, Chop-Seung-Mu, Gwang-Soo- Mu, Kyong-Pung-Do and Hyang-Bal-Mu, the dancers(Moodong, Dong-gi and Yoryong) had wom the former and Mu-Go-Mu, Choon- Aeng-Jon, Gom-Gi-Mu, San-Yoo-Rahk, Hak-Mu, Yon-Hwa-Dae-Mu, and Hyand-Ryung-Mu, they had wom the latter.<br/>
조효순(Cho Hyo-Soon) 한복문화학회 2000 韓服文化 Vol.3 No.3
The dress-cultural historical value of "Geo-Ga-Jap-Hok-Go" by Park, Kyu Su is very great especially in the discussion of dress reformain of young and old, men and women during Chosun Dynasty. The plan of dress reforming was presented dearly with his own conclusion through research rather than the opinion of ancient sages and the contents of scriptures at that time. It explains that this book was written in the base of realism regardless of the considerable toadyism. And so this book is very important in the understanding of the dressing history during the Chosum Dynasty.<br/> And its value is great also, during the late Chosun Dynasty as a historical materials of dress lolk custom and the construction change of dress with the criticism of dressing life during that period.
사극 드라마 의상제작에 관한 연구 - 제국의 아침과 무인시대를 중심으로-
조효순(Hyo-soon Cho),원혜은(Hye-eun Won) 한복문화학회 2004 韓服文化 Vol.7 No.3
This essay is a study of costume making of historical dramas based on the late unified Shilla period and the Koryo period. Getting the opportunity of participating in the costume making of the drama Morning of the Empire, I referred this experience to summarize the production course of drama costumes, which are recomposed after dress and ornaments have gone through historical investigations.<br/> By examining the peculiarity, expression, and the problems of production shown on TV, and with the help of my experiences, I hope this study could help junior scholars that are willing to work in this field develop their skills.<br/> I have summarized about my experiences of a historical drama costume making process and its peculiarity. I have also shown reference graphs and summarized the fabrics and texture by era, color tones, production techniques, and finishing techniques. The production problem of a historical drama is the selection of materials and there were difficulties of trying to make dramatic effects by using embroidery or pictures.<br/> I hope drama costume makers could attend historical investigation conferences and do research so that historical drama costumes could be improved.
조효순(Cho Hyo-Soon),유효숙(You Hyo-Sook) 한복문화학회 2001 韓服文化 Vol.4 No.1
This study divides exhumed Moo(gusset) on Jogori into three period respectively. before and after the period which were found big differences in Jogori length, width and examined the changes of the shapes and excavated Moo(gusset) in Jogori at each period. The outline of the results of this study is as follows : 1. This study divides the shape of Moo, a separation triangle Moo and consolidation triangle Moo, ladder Moo . triangle Moo and curved line Moo on the excavated costumes in Chosun Dynasty. 2. This study divides the shape changes of Moo at each period, A separation triangle Moo and consolidation triangle Moo. ladder Moo . triangle Moo co--existed before the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and those kinds of Moo were changed into the form of a curved line Moo after the that war. vertically lined Jogori in its sides without Moo and the wide srortening phenon1enon of J()gori appeared in that the last period 3. This study investigate on the shape of Moo in Jogori. A separation triangle Moo and consoIidation triangle Moo were made of the comfort and action. A ladder Moo . triangle Moo were made of wide in Jogori. A curved line Moo were made of the action instead of the narrow.
조선조 風俗畵에 나타난 여자의 基本服飾연구(Ⅰ)-치마, 저고리를 중심으로-
조효순(Cho Hyo-Soon) 한복문화학회 1998 韓服文化 Vol.1 No.2
1. Genre Paintings during Chosun Dynasty express well the clothing appearances. traditional styles and an aesthetic<br/> sense of the historical dress of both sexes from the aristocratic class to a lowly man.<br/> 2. The length of JOGORI(Korean Jacket) became shorter and shorter gradually from to-the-waist early in that era, shortest<br/> during the year 1~, somewhat longer after the year 1920 and fixed to the shorter length, Le. 25-26 cm again, but<br/> sometimes long or short JOGORI was put on together even at the same time.<br/> 3. The change of collor(of coat) was to the half MOK-PAN-GIT, DANG-KQ-GIT and DONG- GEU-RE-GIT(roundish) in<br/> turn one after another from the MOK-PAN-GIT in the early era.<br/> 4. Sleeve was a square type with a straight under-part and wide cuff in the early era and became curved underpart and<br/> narrower cuff gradually with the lapse of time.<br/> 5. GYUT -MA-GI had a narrow upper part and broad lower part in the early era, but became straight line with it's upperpole toward lower part and shortened extremely there after.<br/> 6. JOGORI was extremely shortened.<br/> 7. SUP was a triangle type with broad lower part and became a smaller trapezoid type in the later period.<br/> 8. A long and broad GEEN-JA-RAK-CHIMA and a short TONG-CHIMA like DURUCHI or GED-DEUL -CHIMA were put<br/> on together at the same time of the penod.<br/> 9. Adjustment of CHIMA had no distinction between the upper and lower classes but differred from each pedigree and an area to an area.<br/> 10. Beautiful CHIMA and JOGORI created the CLOTHING BEAUTY of "VOLUMINOUS BELOW-THINNER UPPER" type<br/> which had expressed the charming sexual intrinsic nature.<br/> As mentioned above, we can see that the transition pattern of women's basic costume- JOGRI and CHIMA-on Genre Paintings during Chosun Dynasty is coincident with the traditional styles in the records of literature and the relics preserved well in the house and observed even in the tombs.<br/>