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고부자(Koh Bou-Ja),김지욱(토론자) 비교민속학회 2005 비교민속학 Vol.0 No.29
This research is about symbolism of costume based on Rite of Passage from birth to death. The content is about collected materials and data from the late 1700's to mid 1950's accumulated throughout the country survey from 1970's to present, 2004. 'Rite of Passage' means the big etiquette (or rite) of a person's life from birth to death, and 'Costume for the rite of passage' means the costume worn by a person. Here, every occasion or situation holds expressive purpose of pleasure and sorrow, moreover each holds distinctive characteristics. The birth of a baby and it's rite were not prominently noticeable because of Confucianism's 'worship of ancestry', however, fulfilled as the most valuable weapon of desire as 'preservation of the race and prosperity of the family'. Accordingly, from the garment of pregnancy, delivery of a baby, hundred days feast to first birthday, the expectation and symbolism were apparent and huge. Right after the birth of a baby, 'Podaegi(blanket)' was used to hold a baby for two nights, then on the morning of third day, a baby wore a clothes made with used top of men of longevity, wealth and honor, as the first garment. It was worn for 21 days, though, generally worn until the hundred days feast. The first garment was treasured as a lucky charm to be considered as "good fortune to carry with for exam, war, trial or gamble". For the hundred days feast, 'hundred lines quilted garment' made of white fabric symbolizing longevity, was worn. Women's clothes was not used for the this garment because it was considered as taboo, weak spirited, and preventing success. Since the wedding ceremony was the most celebrated occasion of lifetime, both groom and bride were treated as the nobility wearing government official's outfits and ceremonial costume. For the death, two prominently different form of outfits show clothing style of the living and death. The death wore shroud made of the best quality fabric as for wedding. The living considered as offender wore funeral garment made of the roughest hemp cloth. Especially, the funeral garment was divided in five grades, relation wise closest to the death wore the roughest. When a father passed away, expressed as 'The heaven collapsed", the roughest fabric and stitches were used. Based on folklore research, a widening gap between the rich and poor or all social standings did not exist for rite of passage and costume. Thus, had wishing desire for splendor of wealth and honor, longevity in common. To achieve these, constructive conduct was held as incantation and predominance of men over women phenomenon. From now on, based on these research. relics and literary document will be supplemented and analyzed as an assignment.
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