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권현주(Kwon Hyun-Ju) 한복문화학회 2008 韓服文化 Vol.11 No.3
Using shrouds has been a long lasting custom to pay respect for the dead. The best clothes among those worn while the dead was alive were chosen: officials were treated with official clothes that they wore while alive; ordinary people were treated with wedding clothes, the best ceremonial dress. Among the excavated remains of the first and middle period of Chosen were found the clothes that have left traces indicating that the dead had worn while alive. From the late period of Chosen, however, not a few shrouds were excavated which were newly made of good silk, revealing that shrouds were specially made instead of using the clothes that the dead had worn while alive. This paper reports the following results obtained by shroud production out of 100% Hanji yarn fabric and from the evaluation of material property on Hanji yarn fabric. Evaluations on fastness to various aspects revealed that fastness to washing is largely grade 4, which is relatively high; Fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing is above grade 4, which is very high; Fastness to light is grade 3, which, just like silk, is somewhat low but is not a problem for shrouds at all. Expected effects from the shroud production out of 100% Hanji yarn fabric are great. So far, in making shrouds, hemp cloth has tended to be preferred, thereby leading to a shortage of domestic hemp cloth and the import of cheap Chinese product. Thus Hanji shrouds are expected to be widely used as an ordinary dress, thereby replacing low quality Chinese product, and to be further developed into a high value-added product.
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지주원 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.44 No.1
We selected 100% cotton fabric, 100% Hanji yarn fabric and two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and fused them with three kinds of interlinings in order to examine changes to the physical properties and the post-adhesion physical properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Changes in KES values were examined after fusing. First, EM, B, 2HB, MMD values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were higher than cotton fabric, and LT, RT, G, 2HG, LC, WC values of cotton fabric were higher than Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Tensile recovery was lowered, bending stiffness was increased, and shear stiffness was lowered when Hanji yarn was mixed. Second, the KES value of LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, LC, WC increased after fusing, while the EM, MMD values decreased. SMD was shown to decrease or increase depending on the type of fabric. The adhesive effect on bending stiffness and shear stiffness due to the mixing of Hanji shows a different tendency in the comparison of αB and αG.
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