넥타이의 변천에 관한 연구 : 남자복식의 칼라 및 머리모양과 관련하여 Concerned with Collar and Hair Style of Man's Costume

은영자,형승희 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1997 科學論集 Vol.23 No.-

AbstractThis study surveys the change of collars, neck ornaments of man's suit, hair styles and neckties-which is the main ornament in recent trend-and shows the chronological development and relations. With reference to chronological document and photographs, this research puts emphasis on, especially, the change and relations of collars in 17th, 18th, 19th century, when neck ornaments were popular.The relation between collars, neckties and hair styles shows as follows ; the more collars were decorated, the simpler neckties tended to be with short hair. On the other hand, the less decorated the collars were, the more neckties were emphasized with longer hair styles.As man's suit in modern society becomes simpler and more uniformalized, collars and neck ornaments tend to draw attention and great interest.Therefore, more functional styles and various esthetic designes are demanded. In conclusion the study on the relation of collars, neckties and hair styles is important, and will play a great role in showing individual personality and creative design.

동양 복식의 연구 동향 분석

은영자,최윤혜,형승희 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1999 科學論集 Vol.25 No.-

In this study, we investigate the transition of studies in the history of the Eastern costume every 5 years from 1959 to 1998 by sorting the researches into 8 classes in accordance with their topics, in order to grasp earlier and current trends in the discipline and seek a desirable direction to future research. The results of this study are summarized as follows. 1. Research papers in costume are published steadily since 1970, but it appears that the quantity of papers has increased since 1990. Master's theses make the majority of the total researches, occupying 44.8%. 20.4% of the papers appear in college periodicals or else, and 19.6% in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. The rests are 4.5% in Journal of the Korean society of Clothing and Textiles, 3.7 % in Journal of Korean economic association, and 2.1% in Research Journal of the Culture in order. 2. Based on the classification of the topics of the papers, we have loamed that studies in materials such as patterns, textile, and colors occupy 19.5% making themselves the majority. Other topics are presented in similar frequency. 3. The most frequent topic in Men's costume is the study on Simuy, a Korean traditional jacket and Topho, a Korean traditional coat. The researches in Men's costume, focusing on historical changes, morphology, and colors, are generally performed in bibliographic historical methodology or through analyses of archaeological materials such as relics and paintings. Some papers present ways of draft from the viewpoint of clothing construction. And others include studies on variations of life emotion reflected in local properties and costume and the comparative study of the aspects of costume appeared in Confucian books and I-Ching (易經). 4. The majority of researches on Women's costume are concerned with the Korean traditional jacket Chogori, in which the focus is put on the form of Chogori and some other details. Then, the Korean traditional dress Chima-Chogori, ceremonial dresses, and the Buddhist costume are major research subjects in Women's costume in order. They analyze types and forms of the above mentioned clothes, and hence characterize contemporary aesthetic senses to corroborate the cultural inherence and beauty of the Korean traditional costume. 5. Researches on accessories, in general, concentrate on the diversity of the sorts of them, but lack enough varieties and independence in that they tend to only review the earlier work. Therefore, they need be more diverse and varied in subjects. Nonetheless, it has been found from the papers on accessories that the accessory is not so much a part of costume as an independent object of the discipline. 6. Of the subjects of Studies on materials such as patterns, textile, and colors, the pattern is the most prominent, and the researches on the pattern applied to design and the comparison with other nations' patterns has been increasing, from which we have learned that those researches will be important references in future research. In the case of textile, much work on that in Corye, a Dark Age in the field of costume study has been presented currently, which seems to signify a new breakthrough should be open. 7. Most papers on military and police uniforms have to do with history of changes based on bibliographic data, and investigations into dancing clothes, musicians' costume, and the shamanist costume are also mainly concerned with changes or systems of costume. On the other hand, studies on Kisaeng' Clothes discuss the Chosun Kisaeng's Costume and idiosyncrasies of their status. 8. About a half of papers on archaeological costume and paintings deal with exhumed clothes and textile and record paintings, from which we can tell that the researches in these topics take part in the positivistic study of the history of costume. 9. In the field of the comparative study of costume, researchers have most frequently compared the Korean costume with the Chinese costume, especially concentrating on clothes rather than on ornaments and accessories. On the other hand, it is expected that more interest should be taken in the Japanese costume, because it is not sufficiently investigated in comparison with the Chinese costume. Moreover, it is desirable to extend research interest to countries other than those in the Northeastern Asia since the tendency of the discipline has been to give more attention to the Northeastern Asia than other areas. Needless to say, the comparative study requires the researchers to have enough knowledge of historical backgrounds and local characteristics of other countries. 10. Researches on the costume in the enlightening period and the post-independence era are different than those on other periods' costume in that they are generally interested in the change of costume and the factors of the change.

現代服飾 超現實主義的 造形性

邢升喜,殷英子 服飾文化學會 1994 服飾文化硏究 Vol.2 No.2

This thesis, drastically breaking from the prior form of art, searched mutual relationship between surrealism centering around surrealism which tried to liberate the spirit fo humanbeing by investigating internal world of the humanbeing. That is to say, it is the purpose of this thesis to study the relationship between artistic trend and costume by grasping how the artistic trend of an age was specifically accepted and expressed to the modern costume as the foundation of fashion. Followings are the searched results for searching mutual relationship of the surrealism and modern costume. At first, surrealism made it possible from modern custume to an expression of formative art, and at the same time emerge from existed uniform coustume, and thus presented new possibility to the harmony of costume and art with fresh and avant-garde sense. Second, by being applied the expressing method of depaysement which could materialize surrealistic image to the modern costume from various angles, and thus it suggensted new aesthetic conception different form general conception f the traditional costume. Third, with regard to modern costume, introduction of various object due to thought of surrealism was a new and innovative attempt, and thus it suggested infinitive possibility of creation. So, it suggested that we could thrown away a fixed idea and that every objects could be moulded. As the result of the afore-sad, wide application of the idea and formative feature of surrealism with regard to modern costume did not only bring the diversification and individualization of the costume escaped from the past traditional idea, but also at the same time prepared modern costume with the moment to develop as a formative arts.

현대복식의 초현실주의적 조형성

형승희,은영자 복식문화학회 1994 服飾文化硏究 Vol.2 No.2

대구 매일신문에 나타난 복식현상에 관한 연구 ( 3 ) - 1946 년 이후의 액세서리 , 피부미용 및 머리모양을 중심으로 -

은영자,최윤혜,형승희 복식문화학회 2001 服飾文化硏究 Vol.9 No.2

대구 매일신문에 나타난 복식현상에 관한 연구 ( 3 ) - 1946 년 이후의 액세서리 , 피부미용 및 머리모양을 중심으로 -

은영자(Young Ja Eun),최윤혜(Yoon Hea Choi),형승희(Sung Hee Hyoung) 복식문화학회 2001 服飾文化硏究 Vol.9 No.2

매일신문에 나타난 복식현상에 관한 연구 (Ⅰ)

은영자(Young Ja Eun),최윤혜(Yoon Hea Choi),형승희(Sung Hee Hyoung) 한국복식학회 1998 服飾 Vol.37 No.-

This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in 「Maeil Shinmun」 from Jan, 1. 1946 to Dec, 31, 1996. In the period of 1946∼1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50`s made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by Five year plans for Economic Development and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60`s. In 1970∼1979, the articles of costume made a change from the 60`s, which focused on women`s wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women`s wear but also men`s wear due to the women`s social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980∼1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Furthermore, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of internationalization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlighted the concerns on ecology. the recognition of envrionmnetal protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization, diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.